My delta midi has a reverse!

[tom martin]

I picked up a used delta midi lathe today. When it's turned on it won't spin until you manually turn the hand wheel. If you turn it clockwise it runs clock wise but if you turn it counterclockwise it runs counterclockwise.
My guess is that it must have a bad starting capacitor (?) because it will run just fine once it starts spinning. I took a chance buying this lathe and am hoping that I won't regret it. Anyone have any insight into this? Will it harm the motor by running it in reverse?
Thanks,
Tom

[mickey cassiba]

I picked up a used delta midi lathe today. When it's turned on it won't spin until you manually turn the hand wheel. If you turn it clockwise it runs clock wise but if you turn it counterclockwise it runs counterclockwise.
My guess is that it must have a bad starting capacitor (?) because it will run just fine once it starts spinning. I took a chance buying this lathe and am hoping that I won't regret it. Anyone have any insight into this? Will it harm the motor by running it in reverse?
Thanks,
Tom
Tom I think you hit it on the head, though I never saw this with any at the recon shop. As for running CCW , the only issue I could see is faceplate or chuck unscrewing. Note that I'm not a turner(yet), just a tool tech.
Other wiser guys will probably have more to say.
One thing is for sure...the motor will not last in that condition. It wasn't made to run backwards.
I can only speak in reference to the older midi's, the VS version came out after I left Delta.
Mickey

[Jim Underwood]

It's probably just the capacitor. I'm not familiar with the Delta, but the little Jet mini has a reputation for popping the start/run capacitor- which results in much the same symptoms ( I didn't try running it backward). The good news is that the Jet, at least, has a cheap capacitor. I think you can get one for about $11. Probably can get the Delta's for around that price too.

Good luck, and don't worry til the capacitor doesn't fix it. I worried myself silly over it til I got a new capacitor for my buddy's lathe after it popped one while I was (ab)using it. :cool::D (Just kidding Talley!)

[Richard Jones]

I've had several older washing machine motors that had a bad capacitor, had to spin them to start them. I bolted a piece of tempered Masonite on it, glued some 600 grit wet/dry paper to that, had a great hone, in either direction. I wasn't aware that the motor wouldn't last a long time in reverse, I guess these haven't realized this yet.......

Rich

[robert hainstock]

I suspect that the motor will last as long running in reverse as it would in forward. It must be an induction motor to have a start capcitor, and some motors are even wired with a revesing switch tobe more versitile. :)
Bob

[mickey cassiba]

Robert and Richard, you may be correct as to the reverse issue, especially with motors with good strong bearings. Unfortunately, the little 1/2 horse motor on the lathe has very poor bearings installed. During slow periods in the shop, we used to tinker with things, dis=assemble scrapped tools to determine root cause of failure and the like. Some of the little motors we took apart showed very bad bearing wear for a (apparently) low use motor. Pressed apart some bearings, not in the lathe, but similar HP and frame, and found scoring on the races. As if the balls, were harder than the races. As long as the bearing continued to move in the same pattern, this might not be an issue, but if reversed(just an opinion) the different tracking pattern, could lead to an accelerated failure. Washing machine motors are built a lot tougher than hobby lathe motors. I was just saying that the OP should try to fix the motor before the low cost fix of a capacitor became a motor transplant. I'm sure you all realize that any "proprietary" Delta part commands a hefty price, Never really tried to find an off brand replacement motor...but I am searching. I've got one of the little lathes myself, and certainly don't want to pay their prices should mine go down.
Mickey

[Michael Mills]

I have a motor that does the same, however it is not on a lathe. It's one I got from my father around 1980 (the motor is at least prior to 1960) and used to make my own grinding system. The grinding table has Cratex and buffing wheels so those need to turn backwards. 25 years later no problems but that doesn't mean yours won't burn up in a few uses.
Mike

[Richard Jones]

I have a motor that does the same, however it is not on a lathe. It's one I got from my father around 1980 (the motor is at least prior to 1960) and used to make my own grinding system. The grinding table has Cratex and buffing wheels so those need to turn backwards. 25 years later no problems but that doesn't mean yours won't burn up in a few uses.
Mike

Mike,

Would you mind posting some pics, especially with the Cratex? Pistolsmith part of me always want to know how to grind/polish 1911 parts better............:)

Thanks.

Rich

[Michael Mills]

Hi Rich,
This picture does not show much, the Cratex wheel is on the right/front. No the pulleys are not crooked, they just look that way in the picture. I use the Sorby sharpening system and had another base built (piece of tube steel cut and drilled) and it normally lives in front of the Cratex for the gouges. I can usually re-hone about 20 - 30 times before going back to the grinder side.
Here is a link for Cratex http://www.abrasivestore.com/products/cratex/large_wheels.php (http://www.abrasivestore.com/products/cratex/large_wheels.php)
I have been using the same Cratex wheel for about 25 years.
Mike

[Josiah Bartlett]

If the start capacitor doesn't fix it, check the condition of the centrifugal run switch. Chances are good that it is the capacitor, though.

Better bearings can be had from places like Accurate Bearing, and they are usually less than $5 each. Rebuilding a small motor is a piece of cake as long as the windings aren't fried.

[Richard Jones]

Hi Rich,
This picture does not show much, the Cratex wheel is on the right/front. No the pulleys are not crooked, they just look that way in the picture. I use the Sorby sharpening system and had another base built (piece of tube steel cut and drilled) and it normally lives in front of the Cratex for the gouges. I can usually re-hone about 20 - 30 times before going back to the grinder side.
Here is a link for Cratex http://www.abrasivestore.com/products/cratex/large_wheels.php (http://www.abrasivestore.com/products/cratex/large_wheels.php)
I have been using the same Cratex wheel for about 25 years.
Mike

Mike,

Wow, didn't know Cratex made anything that big. All of my stuff is Dremel-sized, many different grits and shapes, only ever used them for gun stuff. All of mine came from Brownell's.

What grit is that?

Thanks for posting.

Rich

[Jim Underwood]

If the start capacitor doesn't fix it, check the condition of the centrifugal run switch. Chances are good that it is the capacitor, though.

Better bearings can be had from places like Accurate Bearing, and they are usually less than $5 each. Rebuilding a small motor is a piece of cake as long as the windings aren't fried.

I'm not sure those little midi lathes have centrifugal switches. I know the Jet doesn't. The thing is, there's not much to go wrong on these little motors- no brushes or switches.

I agree with changing out the bearing though. While I was into the one I worked on, I changed the bearings out.

Like the man said, unless the windings go bad....