Help me buy my first plane

[Bernie May]

I just glued up a cutting board and would like to use this as an excuse to start buying a collection of nice hand planes. What brand and model would you recommend for this project? I would like to stay with that brand for the rest of the planes I buy. I am willing to spend several hundred dollars on a plane.
thanks.
-bernie

[John Keeton]

Bernie, that question has been asked a thousand times, and still gets the same spirited debate going!!:D

Personally, I like the innovation of Veritas planes, but recognize the quality in LN planes and others. I have 3-4 LNs, as well.

You don't say if the cutting board is end grain, and that will impact the thought process. If it is, then a high angle plane will do a better job. And, that is one reason I like the Veritas BU planes. With the Smoother, you could get one, or all three, blades, and tackle anything out there.

So.... you have the first of many, many, (all valid BTW) responses! Stand back, while everyone touts their favorite!! ;)

[Sam Takeuchi]

How big is the cutting board? What grain orientation is it on the face of the board? Is it face/side grain or end grain? And depending on your future woodworking projects and other aspect, it's hard to say "ok here is a good plane! Go and get it" (well, some do that anyway regardless). Generally speaking, for something like a cutting board, you can go for a block plane, #3 or #4 (or 4-1/2 if the board is rather large), but it's really hard to say. After all, you can use even larger planes to get the job done.

Brand wise, don't limit yourself to one brand. It'll only limit your options in the future. For general woodworking, brands know for good quality and price are Lie-Nielsen planes and Lee Valley's Veritas brand of planes are the staples. I have a few Veritas planes and I like them a lot. Some people don't like how Veritas planes look, so they opt for a bit more expensive Lie-Nielsen planes. But neither is inferior to each other in terms of quality. They are different in appearance, mechanism and sizes.

Slightly cheaper options are Stanley's recent addition, Premium line of planes and also WoodRiver (or is it Woodriver? Or Wood River?) planes. I haven't dealt with them, but as far as review goes, they don't seem too bad.

The best value comes from acquiring pre-WWII Stanley planes, or pre-mid 1950s Record planes, and other assorted manufacturers of hand planes in the last century. They might require a bit of tuning up, but after that, they are very good working tools you don't need to be ashamed of. Quality of casting and hardware are good (of course if you buy a rusty one with everything pitted, that might not be a top notch quality even after de-rusting). I have a few pre-1920s Stanley planes and they are just wonderful stuff to work with. They feel good in use and a bit of nostalgia, and yields very smooth and satisfactory result.

So do tell us more about your cutting board and plane for future projects.

[Kevin Looker]

I have mostly older Stanleys but I'm sure the quality of the new LN's and Veritas's is excellent.

In terms of a size, I'd start with a No. 5 jack. It's the size I use the most often.

Kevin Looker

[Brian Kent]

I agree with what's been said, and add my recommendation for the Mujingfang Jack Plane and the Mujingfang High Angle Smoother.

The Smoother at Lee Valley:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50251&cat=1,41182,41187

Jack and Smoother at Japan Woodworker
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=98%2E107%2E2155&dept_id=13602

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=98%2E105%2E9050&dept_id=13602

These are the only inexpensive planes (other than the used pre-WWII Stanleys) that I recommend as top performers.

Brian

[Jon Toebbe]

I agree with what's been said, and add my recommendation for the Mujingfang Jack Plane and the Mujingfang High Angle Smoother.
Seconded! I bought some Mujingfang planes from a seller on eBay. Shipping took forever, but when they finally arrived I was very pleased with their performance. The irons took a good long while to flatten, but took a very nice edge, and are really holding up well.

Since you're starting out, I'd recommend getting a woodie and a metal-bodied plane to compare. They have a very different feel. I like both, but I'm developing a serious plane habit... The tool junkies that inhabit this forum aren't much help with that. :)

[David Keller NC]

Bernie - One correction to John's comments (I think he'd agree here). If your cutting board is end-grain up, then you want a low angle blade, not a high-angle. Particularly on maple end-grain, a high cutting angle will likely frustrate you severely - the higher the cutting angle, the more difficult it is to take a shaving in hard wood.

For the initial purpose for which you want to use it (smoothing your cutting board), and for sheer versatility for other planing jobs you may grow into, I would suggest the Lie-Nielsen 60-1/2 low-angle block plane. Just about everyone on the Neander board has (and uses frequently) block planes, and this is a good one for a beginner to start with:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1216

[Bernie May]

the cutting board is face grain up. Sounds like I should think about a #4 smoothing plain.
-bernie

[jim hedgpeth]

I am going to agree with John on this one.


And, that is one reason I like the Veritas BU planes. With the Smoother, you could get one, or all three, blades, and tackle anything out there.

John didn't mention all three of the Veritas BU planes use the same size blades. That adds to their value IMHO as any "spare" blades you buy could be used in 3 planes rather than just one.
I love the smoother, though I need more blades for it still. The jack has its blade situated farther back than most, witch really helps with registration when flattening/straightening a board.

Sam also has a very good bit of advise,


Brand wise, don't limit yourself to one brand. It'll only limit your options in the future.

Once you start with hand planes you will "NEED":D planes from both makers, and others too probably. Veritas makes a few LN doesn't, and LN makes some planes Veritas don't, yet.

I have no experiance with the Mujingfang planes, but they do get a lot of praise from those who have them.

Hand planes seem to be the "gateway" hand tool, you will undoubtedly be sucked in now. We will be seeing a lot more of you here in the neander haven.

Jim

[Doug Shepard]

El Blocko de plano
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1216

[Jim Koepke]

I am willing to spend several hundred dollars on a plane.

Want to trade wallets?

If it is possible to handle the planes before you buy, then the feel can help you decide. How a tool fits in the hand is important if you are going to use it for the rest of your life.

LN & LV both make excellent tools. My assortment of planes is almost all Stanley. Most of them are pre WW I Bailey design for the bench planes.

One advantage to a new tool is they do not need to be fettled before putting them to use.

Look toward the top of the Neanderthal Haven for the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs. There is a lot of information about restoring old planes linked in the thread. Even if you are buying new, this has a lot of information that is good to know.

For a little more $, Stanley Bedrock planes are very good tools.

If you are making a lot of cutting boards, you may want a bevel up plane for the end grain. Bevel up planes can also do face grain. Put a chamfer around the edge to avoid breakout.

Even for face grain on a cutting board, a bevel up may be useful if you did not orient all the grain in the same direction.

jim

[John Keeton]

Bernie - One correction to John's comments (I think he'd agree here). If your cutting board is end-grain up, then you want a low angle blade, not a high-angle.Absolutely!! Chalk it up to a senior moment.

Thanks, David, for catching that!!

[David Keller NC]

John didn't mention all three of the Veritas BU planes use the same size blades. That adds to their value IMHO as any "spare" blades you buy could be used in 3 planes rather than just one.
Jim

You can also do this with the L-N 4-1/2, 5-1/2, and #7 - the blades are interchangeable. Same deal with the frogs - the 45, 50, and 55 degree frogs for any one of these planes will fit the others.

Should you desire a high-angle cutting blade, though, you don't have to have a high-angle frog - you can simply put a micro back-bevel on the blade. Doing this does work extremely well, and avoids some of the drawbacks of bevel-up planes. In the one case where you need a low-angle cutting edge to plane end grain, however, the bevel up planes allow a 37-1/2 degree cutting angle not obtainable with a bevel down design.

[Tom Adger]

I would start out with a #4 or #5, and difinitely a 60 1/2 low angle block plane.

I would also suggest that you get them off ebay. You could probably get both for around $50-60. The old Stanley, Millers Falls, etc. are good, you just have to be as careful as possible to get one that is not in terrible shape.

You will have fun tuning one up, and learn something at the same time.
Plus, if you find that the type you buy doesn't suit you just right, you haven't spent a few hundred dollars finding it out.

[Richard Niemiec]

What Sam, Tom and Jim K. said.

You can spend a grand or more on the basic set of bench planes in the #4, #5 and #7 categories if you go with new bench planes from the premium makers. Frankly, I was 10 years into hand tool use before I bought a LN or LV plane. Hand tools are not like power tools, the user must learn and understand how they work, and since planes are edge tools, learn how to sharpen. In the end, and no matter how much they cost, any plane is simply a jig to hold an edge tool and there is little magic to the essential design; its more in the execution of the design. Hence the LN "magic moment" most experience when they see how a plane should work. That being said, Stanley bench planes made before 1955 or so in good shape can be made to produce results equal to a LN and LV, and certain "types" are more favored than others, but if I can get those results anybody can.

Now, LN or LV will do that with better repeat-ability, and we all know why we like them. But I tend to buy new only the planes that you can't commonly find due to rarity or collector value, and the only #1 to #7 bench plane I have is the LN 4 1/2, simply because a 604 1/2C prices are stratospheric. Same with a #62, and a few others. LV makes innovative designs, and for me I prefer their shoulder planes (medium and now small), and their large router because of the fence and adjustment mechanisms. Their bevel up smoother I personally like better than the LN 164 (try and find a vintage #164...). Similar things can be said about the innovative design of the LN #140 (left and right versions) and their wise choice in making a 60 1/2 rabbet block (derived from a Sargent design), and their tongue and groove plane (which I have fondled at shows) is on my wish list, as is the #9, as the vintage ones always have something missing, like hotdogs and irons....

So try some vintage, we all sell off planes from time to time in the classifieds below or over at the S&S on WoodNet, and for less than $200 you can get a fine set of Stanley #4, #5 and #7 users with all their parts that work like they should, then learn how they work and how to sharpen. When you eventually buy the LN and LV's of the world, you can likely sell off (or maybe not) the Stanleys for the same or more than you paid for them; these things don't wear out. My general go to smoother is a Type 9 #4 and has been doing its thing for over a hundred years now, and long after I'm dead and gone it'll still take micro thin shavings on curly maple. Enjoy the slope, its very slippery..........

[Danny Thompson]

The veritas (Lee Valley) and Lie-Nielsens are the way to go. For a cutting board, why not
start with a medium-sized block plane. With your fund specs I would go straight to the
Veritas NX60, which has an adjustable mouth, low-angle A2 blade, and is rust-proof (- think).
Pricey, but sweet.

[Todd Bin]

If you want to start out with just one plane then I highly, highly suggest you consider the LN No. 62 Low Angle Jack plane. This one definitely deserves the "Jack" nickname because is indeed a jack of all trades. The plane is bevel up and low angle so right off the bat you can plane end grain. It also does a nice job of planing face grain but will cause tear-out on figured woods. So I would suggest you pick up an extra blace and grind a steeper bevel on it so that you get about a 50 degree planing angle. This will enable you to plane figured woods with little tearout. You can also pick up the toothed blade and use it similar to a scrub plane because with the toothed blade you can really remove a lot of stock quickly. Since it is a low angle plane you can pick up the "hot dog" attachment and use it for shooting (with a shooting board).

Oh yeah, did I mention that if you put the 90 degree blade in then it works as a scraper.

here is the link. (total cost: Plane, 90 deg blade, extra blade, toothed blade, and hot dog = $455)

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=62

[Dan Andrews]

As a person who is not new to hand tools, but is definately trying to get more skilled in their use, I have been adding to my arsenal of planes. The new old planes that I have recently aquired that perform just fantastically are a Stanley #5, type 11, a Stanley #27 transitional jack and a 6" Millers Falls low angle block. I learned a lot about them just getting them tuned up. New high end planes are no doubt great to use, and maybe someday I will. Right now I am enjoying using vintage planes that work so well.

As for specific recommendations, I will leave that to those with much more experience than I have.

[Matt Lau]

I'm not super experienced myself, but I've found out that you should check the sol for flatness.

Of course, my first planes were cheap Grizzly planes (note: don't buy Grizzly hand planes!) :mad:

[Erwin Graween]

Hi.

As others said. Go for a #5 or #60 1/2.

The #5 is really an all around plane. You can do a lot of things with it.
The 60 1/2 is smaller but also very useful.

You did not say if you already have many power tools (like a planer, ....). It could have an impact on what you could buy to start.

If you have the money go for the LN or LV tools, there great. Also, their value on the second hand market is quite high. SO if you don't like you can always sell them, without loss.

Buying old tools is great, but you need to know a little about the tools before starting. Also you need to know how to settle and tune a plane. cheaper, but harder thant buying a new tool 'almost ready to use out of the box'. But you'll find many articles here to find out how to do.

Hope it helps.

[Paul Ryan]

Bernie,

These guys are real helpful for us plane newbies. Some months back I inherited an old stanley #4 that needed some TLC. With the help from these guys I was able to get it to the usable stage. Planes really come in handy because you can do things with them that is hard and time consuming with a power tool. What I have noticed is there isn't any do all plane. I am by no means an expert but since I started with the #4 I have bought a stanley #5, 60 1/2 block, and a veritas shoulder plane. There are some real good deals on ebay if you are patient. I have been real happy with the old stanley planes I have purchased. I think more important than the quality of plane is how to properly hone and sharpen an iron. I had some trouble at first because even though I thought my irons were good to go, but the plane didn't function as I thought it should. After some more work with the iron I got them razor sharp. Now I look forward to finding reasons to use the planes.

I guess what I am getting at. Once you buy a plane you will need sharpening equipment if you don't already have it. So don't forget about saving some $$ and buying some good old used planes and use the saved money on sharpening.