Work bench top - OSB or Ply?

[Mike Rees]

Hey Gang,

I'm 4th and inches from choosing my work bench plan. I don't want to just put 2x planks across the top b/c I'd like the bench to be movable to a point. Since this is my first bench, I'm thinking of going OSB or Ply for the top - I'll tackle a more serious bench top when I try for something more complicated. Pretty much my Rees Bench version 2.

So, for version 1, do you guys recommend the top and the bottom shelf to be OSB or Ply? What should I be shopping for this weekend?

Thanks !

Mike

[Adam Strong]

Definitely Plywood.... OSB is not a good work surface. It is not smooth, and splinters easily, not to mention how moisture affects the strength. You never know what you'll end up working with on your bench top, ply will last much longer and be more functional.

[Tony Bilello]

OSB shouldn't even be in the running for reasons already mentioned. As for plywood.....dont ever underestimate it. I have been building Plywood work benches for over 25 years. The attached link to my albums shows a photo of a ply top workbench with a tool well. It is much stronger, rigid and heavier than you would expect.
http://sawmillcreek.org/album.php?albumid=138

[Rick Fisher]

I built mine with a sheet of 3/4" plywood, and a sheet of 1/2" MDF Glued on as a surface..

The MDF is a nice surface to work on.. The overall thickness of 1-1/4" is awesome..

The bench is on 6 casters.. so it moves around.

I finished the 1/2" MDF surface with about 4 coats of watco oil.. I kept slapping it on until it wouldn't dry anymore.. The MDF cannot abosorb anything.. Large blob's of glue just "pop" off in one piece..

The bench is heavy, but really solid and stable.. as a work bench should be..

[sean m. titmas]

Nix the OSB. if sheet stock is your interest than make your choice from either MDF or plywood.

[Mike Rees]

VERY glad I asked you guys. Thanks much.

I'm just starting out with all this - I'll be around w/ these kinds of questions for quite some time. :D

[Cory Hoehn]

For my bench, I used 2 layers of 3/4" MDF glued and screwed together, then a layer of 1/4" hardboard as a replaceable top. I surrounded the top with poplar edge banding. The hardboard is just screwed in on the four corners. It's easily and cheaply replaced when it gets dinged up, or painted, or gets glue drops on it.

That'll give you a heavy, flat, easily replaceable bench top.

[Lee Schierer]

If you go with plywood, make sure you don't leave it unfinished. Take the time to put 3-4 coats of polyurethane on it. It will hold up much better and you can wax it to keep teh glue from sticking and creating rough spots. I'm not sure how polyurethane would be on a MDF top surface.

[Robert Strebler]

There's a pretty nice basic workbench at the Getting Started in Woodworking site. (http://www.finewoodworking.com/getting-started/season-two.asp)

Just scroll to the building a workbench video and they will show how to build a rock solid workbench with MDF glued and screwed.

Cheers!

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Mike.

For a temp bench top, I would go with one 3/4" sheet of CDX ply, topped by one sheet of 'good quality' birch ply(glued together.) Optionally, a top layer of 1/4" Masonite. Just screw the Masonite to the plywood so that you can replace it as it gets shopworn .

I have used the 2 layer plywood on base cabinets I have built for the shop and garage, with the Masonite replaced by Laminate on the garage cabinets.

[Mike Rees]

Hi Mike.

For a temp bench top, I would go with one 3/4" sheet of CDX ply, topped by one sheet of 'good quality' birch ply(glued together.) Optionally, a top layer of 1/4" Masonite. Just screw the Masonite to the plywood so that you can replace it as it gets shopworn .

I have used the 2 layer plywood on base cabinets I have built for the shop and garage, with the Masonite replaced by Laminate on the garage cabinets.

That sounds like a heckuva a idea to me.

[Howard Acheson]

Like the others I strongly recommend that OSB not be in consideration. I'm not a fan of plywood either. Today's plywood has only the thinnest veneer on it's surfaces and most has significant voids internally. Both these factors mean that the surface will not stand up to any real abuse. If you want plywood, I would suggest you attach a 1/4" hardboard (Masonite) cover. Hardboard will stand up to the abuse.

That said, my preference would be to use an MDF rather than plywood. MDF is solid throughout and it's heft will stain up to pounding. But even here, I would cover it with the 1/4" hardboard. Many folks have built hardboard covered MDF bench tops and found them long lasting a perfectly satisfactory.

[Curt Harms]

and hardboard on top. I took some time with winding sticks and a straight edge and was able to get a nice flat non-twisted bench top from ply. 2X4 and ply panel construction. Plenty solid for my purposes and lots of storage underneath the top.

[Brandon Weiss]

Well, the material question seems to be well covered. One recommendation, which I forgot on my first workbench, is to make sure to have some overhang on your work bench. Not much, maybe 2-3 inches of the top surface overhanging the frame. Why the overhang? For clamps of course! Clamp storage AND assembly clamping are both benefited from the overhang.

[Billy Trinh]

I'm planning to build a workbench as well. Does it matter if hardboard is 2 side smooth or 1 side smooth? I can't find a 2 side smooth from any of the local BORG stores.

[Howard Acheson]

>> Does it matter if hardboard is 2 side smooth or 1 side smooth?

No, but if you use the one sided, the smooth side should be up.

BTW, some will attach the hardboard with double sided carpet tape or small brass flathead screws along the edge. This allows the hardboard to be replaced in the future if it gets too dinged up. Otherwise, I recommend laminating it to the substrate with a solvent based contact cement.