Decided to get a good blade.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Well, I was going to say heck with it and buy a pre made crosscut sled so I don't have to mess around with building one, but then I thought, I may well be better off just investing in a good blade.

Seems to be the general consensus that the Wordworker II is one of the best blades on the market? Or at least that's all I hear about in regards to good blades.

So, question is, how many teeth should I get for general work?

I really think all I'll be messing with is up to 1" thick hardwood and softwood, and 3/4" thick plywood or MDF.

Any cuts of 2x4's or such and I'll just swap out the blade for something else.

So..

30T or 40T?

I was figuring that 40T would be better for ply, any disadvantages with other cuts using a 40 over a 30?

Also, what are the disadvantages of using a thin kerf blade? Besides that I ordered a standard kerf riving knife already. Can easily whip up a thin kerf though.

And last question, I have a Fastenal right up the road from me who does tool sharpening. Any reservations on using them to sharpen it? Or should I send it back to Forest for sharpening?

[Cliff Holmes]

Conventional wisdom says that they're more prone to vibration and may warp from overheating when doing tons of continuous ripping. I think that unless you're cutting lots of *very* expensive wood where the additional waste matters or your saw is underpowered, it's a toss-up. Personally, I simply like the heft of a full-kerf blade. It also makes the math easier when resetting the fence between cuts :)

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Thanks, Cliff.. That was my general thought on the matter too. I'd heard somewhere that someone was doing alot of cuts on a thin kerf and the blade itself started flapping about.

I think I'm pretty well set on the full kerf 30T blade. From the sounds of it, it's a more aggressive blade and cuts faster so is less likely to bog on a low power saw and the rip cuts are just about the same. Cross cuts can have a little more chip out but I think a ZCI would pretty well nullify the bulk of that.

I was also looking into the Freud P410 Fusion, but have heard mixed reviews of it VS the WWII.

Any other blades that I should consider, or is that about it for a good general blade?

[Cliff Holmes]

I think you'd be hard-pressed to find a consistent difference between the top blades. At that point I think one blade will perform slightly better at this particular cut, another at a different one. Heck, the saw itself may make a difference. If you've never used a high-quality blade, you'll be dumbstruck at the cut no matter which one you choose.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Best I'd ever done with blades is around $50.. But then, that was on a POS Skil table saw.. I'm sure I will be dumbfounded, no doubt.. Heck, when I got my Ridgid R4511 together and made the first few cuts I was rather awe struck at how well it cut with the factory blade and moreover, how QUIET it is.

Granted, I know my saw isn't top of the line by any manner, but geesh, what a difference. Will suit me well for years and years, no doubt.. As will the blade, for that matter.

Which begs the question.. How many times on average can a saw blade like that be sharpened?

[Heather Thompson]

Scott,

Another blade to consider is the Ridge Carbide, I personally own three WWII and when they have been resharpened to death they will be shop clocks for friends, I like dedicated blades (rip/cross cut).

Heather

PS Holbren sells these blades and others, they are associated with SMC and offer a 10% discount to SMC folks (discount code SMC10). http://www.holbren.com/

[Lee Schierer]

I've had very good results from Freud blades at a fraction of the cost of WWII blades. They cut clean, are very low noise and vibration is non-existant. The WWII seems to be an excellent combination blade, but seems a bit pricey. I also prefer dedicated blades.

The recent edition of "Wood" magazine has a testing of blades for cut performance. I think they limited their blade selection to lower cost blades as the WWII is not amoung those tested.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Another blade to consider is the Ridge Carbide

Heather, thank you very much for the heads up on this blade. Seems to be limited to 40T but in the grand scheme, I don't think that will affect things with my current saw and work duty.

Anyone else try these blades out and have opinions on them?

I LIKE the fact that 5 of the teeth are flat top, so that the cut ends up even at the bottom for non through cuts. Not sure if the others have this as well?


I've had very good results from Freud blades at a fraction of the cost of WWII blades.

The cost depends on which one you're using. The one I quoted costs just about the same as the WWII.


The recent edition of "Wood" magazine has a testing of blades for cut performance. I think they limited their blade selection to lower cost blades as the WWII is not amoung those tested.

Do you happen to know the issue #?

[Mike Cruz]

Whatever brand you get, I reccomend going with a combo blade. They actually make really nice rips and crosscuts, do well on plywood, and you don't use up valuable shop time changing blades. Just MO.

[Joe Spear]

It's the one that just came out, #194, No. 2009. I got it yesterday. They tested blades costing $50 or less. A Ridgid blade, R1050C, was judged best overall. An Irwin, Classic 15370, was the top value. They also recommended the Amana Prestige PR1040 and the Freud Diablo D1040X. They did categorize by type of blade--40-tooth general purpose, 50-tooth combo, rip, 60-tooth crosscut, and 80-tooth crosscut.

[Rob Hermann]

I got a WWII this spring and was amazed with the quality and smoothness of the cut. I plan on getting one for my miter saw too now. I'd recommend it.

[Mike Nguyen]

How about this "disposable" blade from Irwin on clearance right now at Woodcraft for 10 bucks and free shipping. I just ordered one. http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005333/2005333.aspx

Mike

[Scott Hildenbrand]

A Ridgid blade, R1050C, was judged best overall.

I'm pretty sure that's the factory blade on the R4511 table saw.. I was extremely pleased with its performance for a factory blade. Will have to double check though to make sure that's it.

How many times would you think those blades can be sharped?

Tired of the throw away mentality, so making sure I'm not in that position anymore.

They say which one was best for crosscuts? I'd like to get a really good blade for my miter saw, but NOT at WWII price level.. That's just too much for me.. ;)

[Scott Hildenbrand]

How about this "disposable" blade from Irwin on clearance right now at Woodcraft for 10 bucks and free shipping.

Wow.. That's dirt cheap.. Might pick up one or two for using as garbage cutting blades to do 2x4's and whatnot.

Still hate the throw away mentality though.. ;)

This begs the question.. What does everyone do with their dead blades once they can't be sharpened anymore?

[Rob Hermann]

I know what you mean about the throw away thinking but, I get $10 HF blades all the time for acrylic and junk stuff. I just can't beat them. They last quite awhile and then toss 'em and get a new one. I throw mine to recycler.

[Mike Nguyen]

Just try to think that you are trying to stimulate the economy by spending money on the hobby :)

[Jacob Mac]

Ridge is my go to brand for saw blades. Their dado set is fantastic, and their other blades are great as well. Throw in free shipping and 10% off from Holbrens, and you can't go wrong.

[Eric Meier]

Rockler currently has the WWII blade on sale for only $90.

[Brett Robson]

Another blade to consider is a Tenryu Gold Medal. I have one and absolutely love it. From what I've read, it's easily comparable to the other premium blades, but generally sells for a little less.

I found mine on Amazon for $75.

[Doug Shepard]

If you want this primarily for crosscutting and sheet stuff get an 80-tooth blade. The WWII is good for when you dont want to mess with blade changes and have a mix of cutting (cross, rip, etc) to do. It's a decent blade but doesn't crosscut as well as my Freud 80-tooth or rip as well as my Freud rip blade. The WWII is currently in my saw but I usually swap between the 2 Freuds.

[Rick Moyer]

Do a search for Scott Spencer and blade, and you will find everything you'll need on table saw blades. He seems to be the resident guru, as he has tested many blades himself and has a good knowledge of what you might want. (or you could PM him).

[Kent A Bathurst]

"....general consensus that the Wordworker II is one of the best blades on the market......"

I certainly think so, but everyone has their favorite. I got a WWII when I started, and was so happy I never had a reason to try anything else. I have a 2d one to use when the first is at Forrest for sharpening - never wanted to try someone else's services. Also have a 30t for 6/4+, and a dado set, and one on my CMS, and an 80t panel saw........

I would get the 40t for a first blade - as Eric M noted, they are on sale at Rockler for $90 - best price I've seen.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I own a couple of WWII's. They rest in their protective cardboard boxes, which Forrest was TOO CHEAP to put "vapor emiting paper" into. This means they get a "waffle rust pattern" on them. I keep a DeWalt / Delta 7657 on my saw for everything but cross cutting hardwood veneer plywood. Delta offers a no quibble, 30 satisfaction guarentee on their blades. Don't like them, return them- no questions asked. At less than half the cost of a WWII, they are hard to beat.

[Brad Westcott]

If you want this primarily for crosscutting and sheet stuff get an 80-tooth blade. The WWII is good for when you dont want to mess with blade changes and have a mix of cutting (cross, rip, etc) to do. It's a decent blade but doesn't crosscut as well as my Freud 80-tooth or rip as well as my Freud rip blade. The WWII is currently in my saw but I usually swap between the 2 Freuds.

Which rip blade are you using from Freud?

I too am using the Freud 80 tooth for crosscuts on my table saw. It actually rips pretty well too on soft woods like poplar. I especially like it for tenoning. The blade kerf cleans out the bottom of the cheek cuts when I cut the shoulders (I do shoulders last) so I do not have to do any additonal work to get a good fit.

I have a mix of older blades for rough carpentry on pine or cheap plywood.

[Cory Hoehn]

Have you guys ever used the Freud circular saw blades on your table saw? I bought a couple and have been using them with great results. They're a cheap and disposable blade. I've been using them while cutting up a bunch of MDF. While only 7 1/4" it's not a big deal when cutting 1/2" or 3/4" material.

i also own a Freud thin kerf 40t combo blade that I love. It was only $55.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Scott, is there an industrial saw supplier in your city?

I would suggest that you check with them they will have a wider selection of better quality industrial quality blades, often for less money than retail packaged blades.

They also will be able to sharpen them for you.

Regards, Rod.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Rod, there is a Fastenal right up the road from me. I'll stop in there no doubt to see what they can offer in terms of services and supplies, for sure.