Tage Frid had it right

[lowell holmes]

I looked at Tage's book JOINERY: Tools and Techniques. I haven't looked at the book in years. It is a 1979 copyright.

His techniques are as current today as they were 30 years ago.

He had some real preferences, such as he sharpened his saws to have rip teeth, even crosscut saws. He recomended 1/64" set on the teeth. Isn't that about the amount of set in the current saws? I used a 10 point rip saw to cut the 2" thick seat blank on a chair I built 5-6 years ago. I used it to cross cut as well as rip. I was impressed with the saw. It belonged to the instructor.

I have converted a 10 point cross cut saw. It is a Craftstman saw from the 60s, skew back, taper ground, special steel. Today, I reduced the set with a hammer and sharpened the teeth. I had previously made a rip saw out of it, but it was sloppy in the kerf. After peening the set to approximately 1/64", it stays on line in its kerf quite well.

I think I will study his techniques a bit more to refresh my memory.

We've lost Tage, Sam Maloof, and James Krenov. They were among the all stars.

[David Gendron]

Thank you, and keep us in touch with the rest of your find in the book... I allways wanted to by them...

[Frank Drew]

I had a great deal of respect for the Tage Frid's store of knowledge and was extremely grateful for what I learned from him. The guy had a deep, deep grounding in the craft.

[Jim Koepke]

I looked at Tage's book JOINERY: Tools and Techniques. I haven't looked at the book in years. It is a 1979 copyright.

His techniques are as current today as they were 30 years ago.

He had some real preferences, such as he sharpened his saws to have rip teeth, even crosscut saws. He recomended 1/64" set on the teeth. Isn't that about the amount of set in the current saws? I used a 10 point rip saw to cut the 2" thick seat blank on a chair I built 5-6 years ago. I used it to cross cut as well as rip. I was impressed with the saw. It belonged to the instructor.

I have converted a 10 point cross cut saw. It is a Craftstman saw from the 60s, skew back, taper ground, special steel. Today, I reduced the set with a hammer and sharpened the teeth. I had previously made a rip saw out of it, but it was sloppy in the kerf. After peening the set to approximately 1/64", it stays on line in its kerf quite well.

I think I will study his techniques a bit more to refresh my memory.

We've lost Tage, Sam Maloof, and James Krenov. They were among the all stars.

I think it was after buying a #4-1/2 plane that I saw a video in a Rockler store that had him cutting dovetails and making a drawer. He picked up what looked like a #4-1/2 to trim the proud dovetails and the top edge of the drawer. Kind of if it is the closest tool at hand and it works, use it.

I have done a lot of crosscuts with rip filed teeth. Crosscut filed teeth will leave a cleaner edge. If it is going to a shooting board anyway, it likely doesn't matter. Though, one of my crosscut saws at 7 ppi can leave a pretty rough edge too, but it sure cuts fast.

Pulled an old Disston out today that was inherited from a friend. It is at 11 ppi and has worn crosscut teeth that will likely be filed that way since their is already one at that count filed rip.

jim

[willie sobat]

Tage Frid's book on joinery was the first serious book on woodworking that I purchased. As a self taught woodworker it helped lay the foundation for the rest of my education. I do find that it still has value when I am trying to solve a problem in the shop.

[Mark Roderick]

Tage Frid's books were a real eye-opener for me. They are so practical. Frid was totally non-ideological about woodworking - he just took whatever approach worked the best.