lowell holmes
10-07-2009, 4:08 PM
I looked at Tage's book JOINERY: Tools and Techniques. I haven't looked at the book in years. It is a 1979 copyright.
His techniques are as current today as they were 30 years ago.
He had some real preferences, such as he sharpened his saws to have rip teeth, even crosscut saws. He recomended 1/64" set on the teeth. Isn't that about the amount of set in the current saws? I used a 10 point rip saw to cut the 2" thick seat blank on a chair I built 5-6 years ago. I used it to cross cut as well as rip. I was impressed with the saw. It belonged to the instructor.
I have converted a 10 point cross cut saw. It is a Craftstman saw from the 60s, skew back, taper ground, special steel. Today, I reduced the set with a hammer and sharpened the teeth. I had previously made a rip saw out of it, but it was sloppy in the kerf. After peening the set to approximately 1/64", it stays on line in its kerf quite well.
I think I will study his techniques a bit more to refresh my memory.
We've lost Tage, Sam Maloof, and James Krenov. They were among the all stars.
His techniques are as current today as they were 30 years ago.
He had some real preferences, such as he sharpened his saws to have rip teeth, even crosscut saws. He recomended 1/64" set on the teeth. Isn't that about the amount of set in the current saws? I used a 10 point rip saw to cut the 2" thick seat blank on a chair I built 5-6 years ago. I used it to cross cut as well as rip. I was impressed with the saw. It belonged to the instructor.
I have converted a 10 point cross cut saw. It is a Craftstman saw from the 60s, skew back, taper ground, special steel. Today, I reduced the set with a hammer and sharpened the teeth. I had previously made a rip saw out of it, but it was sloppy in the kerf. After peening the set to approximately 1/64", it stays on line in its kerf quite well.
I think I will study his techniques a bit more to refresh my memory.
We've lost Tage, Sam Maloof, and James Krenov. They were among the all stars.