Need to buy a circular saw

[Mike Rees]

Hey Gang,

Looking to build a work benchhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2.gif (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/#), deck box, and a shed (next spring). Afterwards, who knows what I can get myself into. Anyway I'm looking to buy a circular saw and I've narrowed my picks down to two.

DeWalt DW369CSK
Makita 5007MGA

Somebody on the DIY forums offered the cordless DeWalt DC390k as a capable saw for a DIYer that would be able to cut 2x material, offer a smaller blade for easier control, and long run times if you pick up a extra battery. His logic makes a lot of sense to me, though the cost goes up and I know nothing about XRP batteries save they are nicads and nicads are generally thought of as bad, right?

I'm not the kind of guy that likes to buy crap tools, but Festool is way out of my budget and needs - however I will spend a little more than I maybe have to in order to get a solid tool to last a long time for my usage. This is why I'm looking at DeWalt and Makita while ignoring Craftsman.

What say you guys?

Thanks,
Jopopsy

[Quinn McCarthy]

Mike

Bosch makes a great circle saw. I have 2 that are over 10 years old. They have a nice wide plate on them.

[Doug Shepard]

Get the Makita
I discovered a number of brands that had some issues with getting the plate perpendicular to the blade when I was shopping a couple years ago
(http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67025&highlight=makita)
One of the factors in my Makita choice was when I asked the salesperson which of my final candidates they had more returns on for service problems. They couldn't recall ever getting a Makita back. I've been real happy with it.

[Robert Reece]

My BIL is a framer - he has all Makitas, probably 10 of them. That should tell you something right there.

I also own a Makita, the 5008, that takes an 8 1/4" blade. You may want to think about that model as you get some extra blade depth which can come in handy sometimes. However, for your projects the 5007 will cut all you need.

[Mike Rees]

My BIL is a framer - he has all Makitas, probably 10 of them. That should tell you something right there.

I also own a Makita, the 5008, that takes an 8 1/4" blade. You may want to think about that model as you get some extra blade depth which can come in handy sometimes. However, for your projects the 5007 will cut all you need.

Is the Makita easy to control? I've read some saws jump a great deal or are otherwise unweildy. I'm the type of guy that will brace my feet, look all around me for the cord, take a deep breath and pull the trigger on the tool - obviously I don't do this for a living. I had only considered the cordless Dewalt b/c it seemed to be easier to control for somebody new at this.

[Jason White]

Get a worm drive, either Skil or Bosch. You'll have it forever and probably hand it down to your kids.

Jason


Hey Gang,

Looking to build a work benchhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2.gif (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/#), deck box, and a shed (next spring). Afterwards, who knows what I can get myself into. Anyway I'm looking to buy a circular saw and I've narrowed my picks down to two.

DeWalt DW369CSK
Makita 5007MGA

Somebody on the DIY forums offered the cordless DeWalt DC390k as a capable saw for a DIYer that would be able to cut 2x material, offer a smaller blade for easier control, and long run times if you pick up a extra battery. His logic makes a lot of sense to me, though the cost goes up and I know nothing about XRP batteries save they are nicads and nicads are generally thought of as bad, right?

I'm not the kind of guy that likes to buy crap tools, but Festool is way out of my budget and needs - however I will spend a little more than I maybe have to in order to get a solid tool to last a long time for my usage. This is why I'm looking at DeWalt and Makita while ignoring Craftsman.

What say you guys?

Thanks,
Jopopsy

[Von Bickley]

Makita......... :) :) :)

[BOB OLINGER]

Here's my 2 cents. I've used circular saws off and on for 40 + yrs. I haven't used the Makita, but I bought a Dewalt about 6 yrs. ago (not sure of the model, but it is a corded model, cost a little over $100). It is a great saw, and I'd buy another one in a heartbeat. I also have the small Dewalt battery operated one. It's OK for special small cutting. I'd recomend to stay away from the battery operated, given your plans. Personally, given your plans and not a professional, I don't see the need for the worm drive. Take care.

[Mike Rees]

Here's my 2 cents. I've used circular saws off and on for 40 + yrs. I haven't used the Makita, but I bought a Dewalt about 6 yrs. ago (not sure of the model, but it is a corded model, cost a little over $100). It is a great saw, and I'd buy another one in a heartbeat. I also have the small Dewalt battery operated one. It's OK for special small cutting. I'd recomend to stay away from the battery operated, given your plans. Personally, given your plans and not a professional, I don't see the need for the worm drive. Take care.

Worm drive is a little rich for my blood - the 180 bucks for the Makita is pretty much the high end that I'm willing to go. Was really wondering if saving the 40 bucks on the DeWalt was ill advised given my usage and experience level.

[Bob Lloyd]

I have used Makitas for years, never had a problem.

[Prashun Patel]

A worm drive is powerful, but is a might heavier than a regular one. Also, they need to be oiled, I think.

I wouldn't get a battery powered circular saw. For circ saws, power trumps convenience. If yr bat starts to peter out, the saw will make a mess of a thinner piece.

I have a hitachi circular saw which I bought because it was cheap. It's great. You might also check out Eurekazone. Dino has some reconditioned tools that can be modified for good dust collection too. He's done a lot of work in modifying circular saws to be 'reasonable' alternative for a table saw... DISCLAIMER: Please let's not start yet another EZ vs tablesaw debate...

Last, regardless of which saw u get, get a good blade.

[Stephen Edwards]

+1 for the Dewalt. I've been very pleased with mine. I've used it a lot in the past two years. Can't speak for the Makita but it's obviously well liked by many, too.

[Chuck Isaacson]

I would get something with a cord. Go for the Dewalt or Makita. You really cant go wrong with either one of them. Both are good names and you should have any problems. As for the cordless, if you are just going to be cutting 2x with it, it is fine. If you are planning on cutting that nice sheet of $60 plywood with it, DONT!!! I tried it once and it just tore it up. The corded are just suited better for that situation. They just have more power and you can put nicer blades on them as well. I only use my cordless for rough stuff. As for Craftsman I have one and like it just fine. It has the laser on it, that I never use because I always use mine in conjunction with a straight edge.

Chuck

[Mac McQuinn]

I've always like the Makita brand products. Seem to be durable and reasonably priced. I've owned (3) of their products. I recently purchased a new C-saw although needed light and powerful, I went with the Ridgid Fuego 6.5" model. About 25% lighter than the rest and comes w/ thin kerf blade which cuts through anything very quickly.

Mac

[Doug Shepard]

Worm drive is a little rich for my blood - the 180 bucks for the Makita is pretty much the high end that I'm willing to go. Was really wondering if saving the 40 bucks on the DeWalt was ill advised given my usage and experience level.

You could save about $60 just getting the MG vs the MGA model. The brake would be nice but I haven't really noticed not having that feature on mine.

[Matt Evans]

I've always like the Makita brand products. Seem to be durable and reasonably priced. I've owned (3) of their products. I recently purchased a new C-saw although needed light and powerful, I went with the Ridgid Fuego 6.5" model. About 25% lighter than the rest and comes w/ thin kerf blade which cuts through anything very quickly.

Mac


Right on. I have used most of the saws out there on jobsites, and use a Makita that I have had for years on a daily basis with no problems so far.The Makitas are great, and the old Milwaukees and Bosch as well, but the control, weight and power of that Ridgid Fuego is really nice. Once my Makita finally bites the dust that is what I am replacing it with.

[Mike Rees]

You could save about $60 just getting the MG vs the MGA model. The brake would be nice but I haven't really noticed not having that feature on mine.

I guess I was looking at a brake model b/c I don't want any accidents. Like I said, I'm no tradesman so I was figuring the blade brake would be a really good feature for somebody who doesn't use a circular saw normally or for the first time in my case. No? I'd love to save the money on the non-break model that's for sure.

[zach barnhart]

Sorry - I know you didn't ask about this one, but have you considered the Milwaukee 6390? I spent weeks deliberating which circ saw to use with my EZ Smart Guide system to cut down 3/4 cherry sheets for cabinets. After reading and reading, the Milwaukee seemed the obvious choice for me. The Amazon reviews are fairly glowing (hope it's okay to copy link here):

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6390-21-4-Inch-Tilt-Lok-Circular/dp/B0000222UX/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1254928306&sr=8-2


It's a comfortable weight and very manageable. With a freud finish blade and the EZ Smart Guide I'm getting no tearout and table-saw quality cuts.

[Matthew Hills]

Random thoughts:

- The sidewinders (non-worm drive) are a bit lighter.
- Dust collection can be nice (although I don't use if working outside)
- I don't have a blade brake; some people seem to like these
- plan to buy a second blade if you're going to be doing any finish cuts with the circ saw (you'll still want the original blade for more construction-oriented cuts)

Down-the-road, you'll need to figure out how you are going to guide the saw for straight cuts. You can make your own, or you can buy something like an EZ Track guide. My PC circ saw has the blade on the left and wouldn't be compatible with this type of guide.

My PC saw does have a thick base. This is pretty convenient for running against a guide; have read some other people less happy with the thinner bases.

You might also want to check out if it is easy to attach a zero-clearance insert to your base. This has been recommended for helping to reduce chipout.

Matt

[Mike Goetzke]

Makita - in my opinion smoothest running saws. I use them mostly on a rail guided system. I have had the 5008MGA(7-1/4"), the 5008MGA(8-1/4"), and the 5104(10-1/4"). They all have mag bases and brake but the 5007 & 5008 have an LED light. I find the LED light functional for letting me know the saw is powered up but not so functional to illuminate the workpiece. I sold the 5007 to justify the 5008 - then sold the 5008 to get the 5104 but later bought another 5008 because I liked it so much. The 5008 is the ideal size. It doesn't weigh too much more than a 7-1/4" and you get the extra capacity. The only drawback is that the 8-1/4" blades are a little more expensive and not as easy to find at the big box stores. The 5007 comes with a case and the 5008 doesn't if thats important to you. Although, in a pinch, I have used 7-1/4" blades in the 5008.

Mike

[Mike Rees]

Sorry - I know you didn't ask about this one, but have you considered the Milwaukee 6390? I spent weeks deliberating which circ saw to use with my EZ Smart Guide system to cut down 3/4 cherry sheets for cabinets. After reading and reading, the Milwaukee seemed the obvious choice for me. The Amazon reviews are fairly glowing (hope it's okay to copy link here):

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6390-21-4-Inch-Tilt-Lok-Circular/dp/B0000222UX/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1254928306&sr=8-2


It's a comfortable weight and very manageable. With a freud finish blade and the EZ Smart Guide I'm getting no tearout and table-saw quality cuts.

For awhile I was looking at the 6394-21 - brake model of the one you mention. I've never had to use a circular saw myself so I"m not entirely sure whether or not the brake is a good feature to have or something that really is not needed. I'm assuming w/ a non-break model you just wait for the blade to spin down before putting the tool down right? Am I missing something?

[Doug Shepard]

I guess I was looking at a brake model b/c I don't want any accidents. Like I said, I'm no tradesman so I was figuring the blade brake would be a really good feature for somebody who doesn't use a circular saw normally or for the first time in my case. No? I'd love to save the money on the non-break model that's for sure.

Well saws are inherently dangerous but I'm having a tough time envisioning how you couldn't mess yourself up just as bad with a brake model as no brake if you really set your mind to it. I've never had a braking circ. saw but they all have blade guards that snap closed to shield the blade while it's spinning down. The pro framer users may be able to shed some light on the merits of having a brake but about the only thing I can think of that this might help is maybe stopping a kickback if your mid-cut and start getting the blade pinched because the work isn't supported well on both sides of the cut.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

180 bucks should be able to get you a Skil wormdrive. The main reason I like them is it's a left handed saw. You can see the cut and the cut line. If you're right handed. Being able to will that to your kids is secondary. Yes they require maintenance, oiling, once every 5 or 10 years. The oil is cheap. They're heavy, but they're more compact, not as wide as a sidewinder, making them actually easy to handle and control. You can get a DeWalt or Makita wormdrive (or hypoid to be technically correct) also. If you like those brands.

[Mike Rees]

There seems to be a lot of Makita love on this forum - and for 122 I can get the non-brake version 5007MG. I like the taste of that - the only thing that rubs is Milwaukee's 6390 and DeWalt's DW639csk both have much longer warranties. Not that it probably matters to me, Joe Homeowner.

[Jerome Hanby]

Ditto on a corded model. Only use I have for my battery powered circular saw is to break down material so it will fit in my truck

[Heather Thompson]

Mike,

I have had a Craftsman circular saw since I was eighteen, it still works great, built many projects with it (replaced the brushes over ten times).

Last year I bought a Makita MGA5008 for the 8 1/4" blade, very nice saw, love the power and extra depth of cut. When I buy a tool I look at it like this, it will pay you back in spades, if you do the work yourself it has paid for the tool plus if you do a side job you are way up.

The Makita is a very comfortable saw, I am 5'7" and a 130 lbs +/- :D, comments not required! Go corded!!!

Heather

[Robert Reece]

I personally hate circular saws. They don't sit will with my desire (unreasonable as it may be) to work to the 0.001".
So I bought some some extruded rails from the EZSmart system, along with the 5008 that Dino modified for dust collection. No I cut sheet stock with impunity. I love it.

However, that all aside, the makita is quite easy to control. It runs so smooth that there isn't any of that fighting that goes on with many saws. I also own an expensive Bosch, which I'm not that fond of. I used to own a Dewalt and hated it so much I sold it to a mason so it would die cutting bricks and stone (which it did) (with a diamond blade).

For cutting 2x material, I made a simple right angle sled that guides the saw. It's lightweight and works well.

I think if I had to go back 10 years, I would buy a great circular saw and a few rails from the EZ system (I own them now). If you get a short rail, say 24" with the right angle guide, you will be set for some fast cross cutting of 2x material. If you get the two longer rails, you will be able to break down sheet goods in short order. I think it's money well spent if you value your time. I can't tell you how many times I have had to look around to find 2x4 or rigid foam to put a sheet of plywood on to break it down. I have a tablesaw, but a sheet of plywood on a tablesaw by yourself? Not fun, doable, but not fun. Also, I don't like running "framing" plywood over my tablesaw. I generally keep a nice blade in there and use it for good stuff, like cabinet plywood.

Sorry for the long post. The makita is as smooth as it gets and cuts wonderfully. Beyond that, it's just a matter of getting comfortable with a circular saw, but I can assure the Makita is your best shot at achieving nirvana with a circular saw. Throw in some guide rails and you will really be on your way to enjoying cutting some things up, rather than stressing about it and closing your eyes as you click the saw on, praying for good results.

[Mike Rees]

Well, I'm 4th and inches from pulling the trigger on the Makita 5007MGA. Lots of Makita fans on this site, and you would all know better than me. I really don't want to spend the 60 bucks for the brake, but if the 60 bucks saves me pain sometime down the road it will have been money well spent. The 5007MG seems well thought of, and the 5007MGA is the same saw but w/ a brake.

So, unless there is a real strong reason to go w/ the Milwaukee (not many DeWalt circular folks here) - that's what I'm going to go w/. I have 3 hours before I lose my chance of having it delivered by Friday. :D

[Scott Perkins47]

so far you only said you wanted to build work bench,
deck box, and a shed. Without
super hi aspirations, If I were you I would buy whatever
39 dollar saw was on sale for 29 dollars. ( so what if it
has bushings instead of bearings etc ) It will do
what you described ten times over and you can always
use the factory edge of piece of plywood to make straight
cuts.
Me personally, I have a cheap 29 dollar 7 1/4 saw to bang around
with for cutting stone and firewood ( never throw any scrap
away ) etc. It has seen so much abuse I am surprised it
has hung on for so many years. I also have three old super lightweight
6.5 inch circular saws that are simply a joy to work with because
they are so light. One of them is a hi power Skill professional
with 13 amps and it is a torque monster at cross cutting
hundreds of 2x stock when framing a house etc. The blades
are a little hard to come by but they are available.
I think for a period in the 60's perhaps, 6 1/2 circular
skill saws must have been real popular.

Bottom line, save your money to spend on the precision
tools if you decide to get into woodworking. Dont blow it
all on a circular saw. Dont forget, Skill invented these saws
and for many decades a skill saw was like a xerox machine
even if it wasnt made by Xerox. Oh yea, dont get the most
powerful one you can afford, get the lightest one you can afford.
( unless you are building log cabins )

If the blades were more readily available, I would have bought
a SawBoss 5 1/2 inch ( five and a half ) circular saw last month
in a pawn shop for $35. Man was it cute. It had no problem
cutting 90 degrees through 2x material. It just didnt catch
on and blades are outrageously priced.

[Kent A Bathurst]

My antique craftsman does what I need - but only because I need it maybe twice per year these days. But, when I started, it was in play all the time.

I'll leave the brand discussion to the hands-on experts, but I can tell you this: If I ever decided to replace it, I would absolutely get a left-blade model (worm drive or not) for the reasons stated earlier re: worm drive - you can see the doggone line and blade with the motor to the right. I'm getting way too old for the contortions needed with a blade-right saw. I believe most of the major mfgrs have a blade-left model.

[Mike Rees]

so far you only said you wanted to build work bench,
deck box, and a shed. Without
super hi aspirations, If I were you I would buy whatever
39 dollar saw was on sale for 29 dollars. ( so what if it
has bushings instead of bearings etc ) It will do
what you described ten times over and you can always
use the factory edge of piece of plywood to make straight
cuts.
Me personally, I have a cheap 29 dollar 7 1/4 saw to bang around
with for cutting stone and firewood ( never throw any scrap
away ) etc. It has seen so much abuse I am surprised it
has hung on for so many years. I also have three old super lightweight
6.5 inch circular saws that are simply a joy to work with because
they are so light. One of them is a hi power Skill professional
with 13 amps and it is a torque monster at cross cutting
hundreds of 2x stock when framing a house etc. The blades
are a little hard to come by but they are available.
I think for a period in the 60's perhaps, 6 1/2 circular
skill saws must have been real popular.

Bottom line, save your money to spend on the precision
tools if you decide to get into woodworking. Dont blow it
all on a circular saw. Dont forget, Skill invented these saws
and for many decades a skill saw was like a xerox machine
even if it wasnt made by Xerox. Oh yea, dont get the most
powerful one you can afford, get the lightest one you can afford.
( unless you are building log cabins )

If the blades were more readily available, I would have bought
a SawBoss 5 1/2 inch ( five and a half ) circular saw last month
in a pawn shop for $35. Man was it cute. It had no problem
cutting 90 degrees through 2x material. It just didnt catch
on and blades are outrageously priced.

You make a lot of sense when you spin it that way, which would put the DeWalt DW369 back in contention were I to weigh your logic best of all. Tools of the Trade.net rated the DeWalt 2nd - tied w/ the Makita. Popular Mechanics gives it 4 stars. Maybe that's good enough for what I want to do - I certainly don't make a living w/ the tool.

So basically for ~135 I can get the DeWalt and ~190 I can get the Makita. Still leaning Makita b/c of the advice of the good folks on this forum.

[Mike Rees]

Bought the Makita 5007MGA. Thank you to all of you who chimed in. It may be overkill, but if I find myself doing more w/ it I can grow into it. If I don't - well I just treated myself.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I know you've probably got a ton of advice to digest already, but I'll just add my suggestion to get the Milwaukee Tilt-lock.

If you can't afford that one, then I'd get the Ridgid as my next choice.

Corded of course and not the worm drive stuff.

I have quite a collection of circ saws myself right now and even though I have a festool TS55, I will still keep my Milwaukee. (I also have a skil and a craftsman that I will never use and am waiting to get rid of them via garage sale)

[bill mullin]

I have two older 5007 Makitas, one close to 20 yrs, one about 15. I use them professionally, both have framed and trimmed many, many houses over the years. I've not tried many different saws, haven't needed to. If the new Maks are like the old ones, I can recommend 'em. Still going strong.

[Doug Shepard]

Bought the Makita 5007MGA.... - well I just treated myself.

And that's what really counts:D A couple other posters mentioned this but first chance you get, treat yourself to a better blade (or 2). The one that comes with will be OK (not great but OK) for cutting 2x4's, etc. But unless you like really jagged rough edges, steer clear of trying to cut any plywood, MDF, melamine, etc with it. Get something with a higher tooth count for those.

[Mike Rees]

And that's what really counts:D A couple other posters mentioned this but first chance you get, treat yourself to a better blade (or 2). The one that comes with will be OK (not great but OK) for cutting 2x4's, etc. But unless you like really jagged rough edges, steer clear of trying to cut any plywood, MDF, melamine, etc with it. Get something with a higher tooth count for those.


You mean like this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0740X-Finishing-Knockout-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2H/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b

[Doug Shepard]

That's definitely in the ball park. The tooth shape looks somewhat agressive for ply but the tooth count is good and it does say it works well for ply. The price is certainly decent. I'd say go for it. Almost anything will probably be an improvement over what comes on the saw. I dont recall exactly what my Makita blade was but oftentimes saws dont even ship with carbide tipped blades.

[Mike Rees]

That's definitely in the ball park. The tooth shape looks somewhat agressive for ply but the tooth count is good and it does say it works well for ply. The price is certainly decent. I'd say go for it. Almost anything will probably be an improvement over what comes on the saw. I dont recall exactly what my Makita blade was but oftentimes saws dont even ship with carbide tipped blades.

Thank you !!!

[David Winer]

180 bucks should be able to get you a Skil wormdrive. The main reason I like them is it's a left handed saw. You can see the cut and the cut line. If you're right handed. Being able to will that to your kids is secondary. Yes they require maintenance, oiling, once every 5 or 10 years. The oil is cheap. They're heavy, but they're more compact, not as wide as a sidewinder, making them actually easy to handle and control. You can get a DeWalt or Makita wormdrive (or hypoid to be technically correct) also. If you like those brands.
I got a Skil wormdrive a long time ago on the advice of a professional carpenter. It is a monster, but I soon found out that it makes straight line cuts far easier than my former Skilsaw. The mass seems to steady the saw and it wants to go in a straight line. I read in one of the magazines that these saws can make good use of the weight in cross cutting dimension lumber by letting the saw "fall" through the cut with the lumber over your knee. That trick works well.

A tool that does its job especially well over a long time is worth extra dough.

[Mac McQuinn]

The Worm Drive saw is a a great tool for construction use. My wife gave me some VCR tapes one Christmas when i was going to college for residential construction. These were of the infamous Larry Haun and when you see what he can do with with a WDS, you'll be impressed to say the least. On another note, watching him sink 16 penny nails with one hit one after another is nothing short of amazing!:cool:


Mac

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I would not get a cordless circular saw as my only saw. My father has a dewalt 18v 6 tool kit and while it is wonderful to take to every job so that we can use it for a few cuts, nothing replaces the corded power and run time.

This weekend we installed a patio door and we constantly had to change out batteries, would have been much nicer to have some corded tools. (I should have brought mine) :)

There is a place for cordless tools, I love mine, but I would buy corded saws first.

[Todd Hoppe]

Mike:

I have a Porter Cable MAG that I bought to use with the EZ guide system. While I can't offer insight I what saw you SHOULD buy, I have had a number of issues with flexing of the baseplate of my PC saw.

I have been able to work around the issues with a lot of tinkering, but I would recommend avoiding the PC MAG saws if you intend to use it with an EZ system, eventually.

Other than the base flexing too much, it is a fantastic saw, with lots of power. It is well built.

[Tom Adger]

I have a Milwaukee 6390, and really like it. I put a Freud Avanti 40 tooth blade on it, and it makes very smooth and easy cuts.

If you Google "circular saw ratings", then click on Consumer Search, you will find a compilation of ratings, Popular Mechanics, Fine Woodworking, and others. The Milwaukee is rated at the top of the list.

[zach barnhart]

For awhile I was looking at the 6394-21 - brake model of the one you mention. I've never had to use a circular saw myself so I"m not entirely sure whether or not the brake is a good feature to have or something that really is not needed. I'm assuming w/ a non-break model you just wait for the blade to spin down before putting the tool down right? Am I missing something?

Well, I've only used mine w/the EZ Smart system which has a zero-clearance attachment which causes the blade to spin down pretty quickly. If I were using it 'freehand' more I would think the brake would save a lot of time, at the very least.

[zach barnhart]

I have a Milwaukee 6390, and really like it. I put a Freud Avanti 40 tooth blade on it, and it makes very smooth and easy cuts.

If you Google "circular saw ratings", then click on Consumer Search, you will find a compilation of ratings, Popular Mechanics, Fine Woodworking, and others. The Milwaukee is rated at the top of the list.

One of the reviews that really cracked me up was the guy on Amazon who said, ".....the Milwaukee just turns wood to vapor. The Dewalt is a very strong saw and never bogged down a bit. But the 6390 feels like magic when it cuts. It's not just the blade, I swapped them and while the Endurance blade is far superior to the DeWalt, either way the Milwaukee just makes you want to cut your picnic table in pieces for the sheer joy of it."

IIRC, that was definitely one of the user reviews that helped cinch it for me.

[Mike Rees]

My Makita 5007MGA should be here tomorrow - I hope to give it some spins making a work bench this weekend or next. I'll let you know how I do !

[Billy Trinh]

You'll like the 5007MGA. I have a 5008MGA and it's been working great. Get some sort of edge guide or make some to help with straight cut. I use EZ guides.

[phil harold]

Get a worm drive, either Skil or Bosch. You'll have it forever and probably hand it down to your kids.

Jason
Worm drives are known to be durable and dangerous saws, more accidents happen with them then a sidewinder

[Rich Aldrich]

Bought the Makita 5007MGA. Thank you to all of you who chimed in. It may be overkill, but if I find myself doing more w/ it I can grow into it. If I don't - well I just treated myself.

Let me know how you like it. I am very close to buying one. I have the EZ Smart rail system and need a saw with a brake. I cant reprogram my mind to not lift the saw off the rail until the blade stops. This damages the anti chip edge on the rail.

Thanks,

Rich Aldrich (The Yooper)

[MR.MATTHEW ROUSE]

It seems you have made your choice and the makita is a good saw but as someone who used to swear by them (I have been using circular saws for 23 years)I lean more towards a dewalt saw now............thay are smooth tuff and will last a long long time

[Dino Makropoulos]

It seems you have made your choice and the makita is a good saw but as someone who used to swear by them (I have been using circular saws for 23 years)I lean more towards a dewalt saw now............thay are smooth tuff and will last a long long time

Dewalt are good saws.
They (dewalt) continued the design of the legentary SawCut saw from B&D.
But they don't offer any unique features such as:
Tilt-lock handles, ( Milwaukee-copied by Worx)
Over the top guard lever ( two Bosch models)
A really good ( Strong ) base. ( they offer some composite bases)
Dust front port ( PC MAG and other saws)

In EU, they offer all the above and more. ( at double the price)
In US they don't have one top model but they do have more models
than any other maker.
Now, they made the right move with a really nice design
in the track saw/plunge saw market.

In EU they offer even more options with normal saws ( sidewinders)
that you can use with a track ( guided) and with front dust collection
but without an electric brake.

Looks like, the saw manufactures must have a good reason NOT to make ONE good saw with all the good features.

I used Dewalt saws for many years in construction and shop.
Never had a problem.

Search for Dewalt saws in EU and you will find some interesting designs
Normal saws with front dust ports and channels for tracks.
All the good stuff but without electric brakes. :confused::confused:

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Worm drives are known to be durable and dangerous saws, more accidents happen with them then a sidewinder

Where did you find this evidence? There are at least 10 sidewinders made for every wormdrive design. Are you saying that they be 10 times more dangerous? They are not popular saws, so there must be way more than a 10 to 1 ratio out there.

[daniel lane]

I would not get a cordless circular saw as my only saw. My father has a dewalt 18v 6 tool kit and while it is wonderful to take to every job so that we can use it for a few cuts, nothing replaces the corded power and run time.

This weekend we installed a patio door and we constantly had to change out batteries, would have been much nicer to have some corded tools. (I should have brought mine) :)

There is a place for cordless tools, I love mine, but I would buy corded saws first.

+1 for Jeff's advice. I had to buy a circular saw after Katrina put a tree in my roof, so I bought a Dewalt cordless for the ease of use. While I don't regret the purchase - it was perfect for what I needed at the time - I wound up buying a Dewalt worm-drive only a year or two later because the cordless just wasn't keeping up with me when I was doing bathroom renovations. My biggest complaint with the cordless was battery life, although the lack of power when the battery wasn't fresh was noticeable when cutting thicker materials.

Switching to the worm-drive felt like switching to a lightsaber. :D




daniel

[Mike Rees]

Let me know how you like it. I am very close to buying one. I have the EZ Smart rail system and need a saw with a brake. I cant reprogram my mind to not lift the saw off the rail until the blade stops. This damages the anti chip edge on the rail.

Thanks,

Rich Aldrich (The Yooper)

I liked it a great deal - though I'm sure the kickback I was getting was due to my being a newbie with the tool. It got better as I got used to it - though i am by no means a expert or comfortable with it yet.

[mickey cassiba]

I own 5...an ancient Millwaukee worm drive that I used when I was framing 30 years ago(heavy as a boat anchor, and just as stout), a practically new Dewalt worm drive (DW378) that I won while working at B&D, a PC 743(my favorite) and a PC 314 trim saw. Each has it's good and bad points, but I'd not trade any of them off. I might buy another one, but thats just me. I collect tools! I also have a cordless PC...kinda worthless unless i just need to make a few cuts.The motor is real powerful...so much so that it sucks the juice out of the batteries really fast. Some tools shouldn't be cordless IMHO
Mickey

[Matthew Hills]

You'll like the 5007MGA. I have a 5008MGA and it's been working great. Get some sort of edge guide or make some to help with straight cut. I use EZ guides.

I just saw the "tricked out" makita.
http://eurekazone.com/images/products/detail/5008written.jpg

For the OP, nice to have options like these available down the road.

Matt

[Gerry Werth]

:):):)
Makita!!!! and get a 12" speed square for cutting 2" x for accurate cross cuts is all you need. Been doing this for years. Makita is light and easy to control. Will last you a lifetime.

[Mac McQuinn]

I have to agree with Kyle. In my experience the worm drive saw feels more like a extension of your hand when using. It puts the blade further away from you when in use. Check out one of Larry Haun's tapes to see just how useful a WD saw really is. While they are heavier, the weight really works for you in placement of the blade.

Mac




Where did you find this evidence? There are at least 10 sidewinders made for every wormdrive design. Are you saying that they be 10 times more dangerous? They are not popular saws, so there must be way more than a 10 to 1 ratio out there.

[Mike Rees]

My 5007MGA is going back to Amazon. This saw has a 'metal sticker' for the depth adjustment of the blade. This sticker already got caught on the height adjustment slide and bent/peeled up and jammed the whole shoe while I was attempting to adjust the blade.

Certainly not a deal breaker as the saw still works, but for 180 beans this isn't what I expected - I expect that from a 49.99 Craftsman product.

So this is going back. I'm going to go w/ the DW369CSK from DeWALT.

Seems I buy a lot of DeWALT in the end. My palm sander, cordless drill/driver, and now my circular saw all ended up being DeWALT. I already chose DeWALT as my miter saw - and have read good things about there combo routers.

[Mike Cruz]

Mike, what brand/kind of cordless drills or other tools do you have? The reason I ask is because that kind of thinking is why I purchased the Makita corless circular saw...I have 2 Makita cordless drills. The batteries are interchangable. It was a no brainer for me.

That said. If you have Dewalt, Bosch, or B&D, you might want to think about how old they are, and what voltage they are. For example, you may have a Dewalt 14.4 volt drill, but I wouldn't buy a Dewalt cordless that uses those batteries if you've had it (and its batteries) for 7 years. At that point, you might want to consider the fact that your drill (and its batteries) might be on their last legs. Therefore, look at either 18 volt, or Lithium Ion battery tools...for both your next drill AND the circular saw.

Just a note: Lithium Ion tools run a bit more expensive than their NiMH companions, but are a lot lighter. Check your budget, AND GO BUY SOMETHING!!!!!!!!!

[Mike Rees]

Mike, what brand/kind of cordless drills or other tools do you have? The reason I ask is because that kind of thinking is why I purchased the Makita corless circular saw...I have 2 Makita cordless drills. The batteries are interchangable. It was a no brainer for me.

That said. If you have Dewalt, Bosch, or B&D, you might want to think about how old they are, and what voltage they are. For example, you may have a Dewalt 14.4 volt drill, but I wouldn't buy a Dewalt cordless that uses those batteries if you've had it (and its batteries) for 7 years. At that point, you might want to consider the fact that your drill (and its batteries) might be on their last legs. Therefore, look at either 18 volt, or Lithium Ion battery tools...for both your next drill AND the circular saw.

Just a note: Lithium Ion tools run a bit more expensive than their NiMH companions, but are a lot lighter. Check your budget, AND GO BUY SOMETHING!!!!!!!!!

Well that's exactly what I'm doing. My cordless drill is the just ordered DCD960KL from DeWALT. 18V Nano Lithium XRP. Now I can put those juicy batts into a cordless circular saw if I want to, or the aforementioned 639CSK if I want to stay corded.

[Mike Cruz]

Well then, I would go for the Dewalt if you are going cordless...for convenience, $, and charging and the likes.

If you are staying corded, then you are open to the entire selection out there.

NOTE: I personally don't think that a cordless circular saw REPLACES a corded one. The cordless ones don't have near the power...and of course longevity. The cordless ones are convenient in that you can use them anywhere, don't have to lug an extension cord around, and are smaller and lighter. But don't expect it to power through material. You can CERTAINLY stop the blade on a corless...if that gives you a visual...

Hey, get both!

[Dean Karavite]

Used to have that Makita and it was a great saw. I have a Festool now and sometimes (hate to admit it) I wish I still had the old Makita laying around for a quick cut.