Portrait on laser Ply.....advice on finish?

[Stuart Orrell]

Hi all,

I've been doing a lot of R and D with regard to producing acceptable portraits on laser ply (birch).

After spending a lot of time experimenting, I now understand a great deal more about the variables that we have to fight (original photos, photo manipulation, wood quality / consistency, etc.) . I'm about 90% on the way to developing a somewhat consistent methodology. It's been challenging but also rewarding.

One hurdle that I have yet to overcome (and this is where my question lies) is finding a good way to finish the wood to protect it from future damage (indoors). I see the main problems being UV degradation, dust and lint from cleaning products. I could mount the portraits in a frame behind glass but would prefer to display the raw wood with a more rustic look. So, I'm thinking that varnish, polish or stain may work best.

Any recommendations?

[David Fairfield]

The first thing I turn to for clear glossy finishes is Future Acrylic Floor Wax. Its cheap, thins with water, cleans with Windex or ammonia, non toxic and extremely tough. Several coats will fill in grain and textures that are liable to catch dust.

I've used it sucessfully on everything from wood to plastic. Usual caveat-- test on scrap first. It may smudge some of the burn marks on wood if you brush it on and don't clean the wood first. Airbrush should eliminate that prob.

Dave

[Lee DeRaud]

A couple coats of spray-can shellac (front and back...DAMHIKT) keeps the details from smudging. If you want glossy, wax/lacquer/whatever can go on top of that.

[James Jaragosky]

I do many photos in birch ply and aspen. I have found that spraying on your finish is preferable to brushing or wiping one on. The spraying method locks the charring in place keeping the contrast where it belongs, brushing or wiping on the finish dilutes and suspends the charred material in the liquid finish, and it gets smeared all over the finished photo product. This leaves an amber like cast over the whole photo while reducing the contrast in the lines that give the photo depth.
When spraying the first coat of finish be careful not to put it on heavy, a heavy application on the first coat will cause a blotchy effect on some of the charring. let the first light coat dry and then apply a heavier coat.

MY favorite clear finish is rattle can polyurethane, the disadvantage to this product is that it can take up to 72 hours to completely dry and harden; it is expensive compared to other products you can use.
I have started to use the polyurethane that is sold for use on new floors; I use a small air gun to apply this product because it is sold by the gallon. For some reason the floor grade of polyurethane dries in less than two hours, and sometimes much faster depending on temperature and humidity; it is much cheaper this way compared to the rattle-cans.

I have used shellac, which I like because it dries fast and hard, but after a time the photo will start to take on a yellow or amber cast.
Spray glaze will work as well and it is cheaper than other rattle-can products.

In the past I have used clear lacquers as well but have stopped. I have had some complaints that when cleaning with a damp rag that the lacquer finish turns hazy white in some spots,because of this I have stopped using lacquer as a finish, and have not had do any remakes since.

Clear Tung oil makes the photo really pop out, but will still need a sealer applied to the finished product to protect it from dust and such.

Stains have not gone over well in my market, everyone prefers the natural wood color, and this includes Tung oils with tints added to them.

One last thing to note; customers in this area overwhelming prefer a high gloss finish.

[Darren Null]

I've had good results with clear spray-on car lacquer. The only complaints I've had is from my family because it smells. They sell it in pound shops here for €1 a can.

[Bill Cunningham]

Home hardware in Canada, has a house brand clear Lacquer called Beautitone.. It works great, First coat light, (drys quick) and usually two or three more coats does the trick..

[Stuart Orrell]

Thanks guys!

That is great advice and it will certainly save me a lot of time.

I do have an order that has come in and I need to get it out this week as its off to France on Monday.

So my first go will be with a couple of coats of the shellac, followed by the Future acrylic floor product. Later, I'll have a go with the Polyurethane as this sounds like a good option. I'll try the lacquer too.

So, some experimenting ahead but thanks again....you have saved me a ton of time.

Side note just for information... I have no affiliation to any of these products:- I have been doing some research and it sounds like the Future Acrylic floor polish is known as "Klear" in the UK but is being re-branded by Johnson's under the Pledge brand.....don't know if the formulation has changed though. An alternative used by model makers here with good results is "quick shine".

Thanks again guys!

[George M. Perzel]

Hi Stuart;
Just a side note regarding your post. I have had great results doing portraits on luan (mahogany) plywood-much better contrast than birch and considerably less expensive, at least here in the colonies where the stuff is used by the tons in the housing industry for flooring underlayment. Like anything else sold in volume, there are vast variations in quality and you need to find a store where you can sort through the sheets.
On another note, I think any type of gloss finish cheapens the look-better to leave it unfinished IMHO.
Good Luck
Best regards;
George
LaserArts

[Stuart Orrell]

Thanks George,
I'll look into that materials availability here.