Need advice on problem with Table Saw

[Stephen Edwards]

I have a Ridgid TS24241 Table Saw. Here's the problem that I'm encountering:

The worm or screw, whatever you call it, that raises and lowers the blade isn't working. When the handle is turned, I know that the worm is engaging the teeth on the gear, I can see that when someone else turns the handle for me.

However, instead of raising or lowering the trunion, the trunion itself stays in the position that it's in and the worm, screw, threaded rod thing, moves toward the rear of the saw until it stops. The same thing happens in reverse when I turn it the other way. It doesn't travel very far either forwards or backwards.

So, any ideas on where I should start to solve this problem? I would appreciate any input that anyone may have who has encountered this problem with this table saw or if they simply understand the problem and can step me through the repair process. Thanks in advance.

Best Regards,

[Dale Coons]

Had the same problem with a different saw. Loose set screw.

[Gene DiNardo]

Stephan,
Dale is correct, the little "worm,screw thingy" is not supposed to move to the back. It should remain in one place and the cogs on the gear should move through it. There should be a set screw going through the side of it somewhere. It may just be loose or, it may have fallen out altogether.
You can get a replacement at just about any hardware store.
You want an "allen set screw".
Hope this helps.
Gene

[Carroll Courtney]

You might try a different type of set screw,either a flat point or the knurled cup that will dig into the shaft.On the better made saws the worm gear uses a pin instead of the set screw.Good Luck---Carroll

[george wilson]

I wonder if the set screw would be metric,being Chinese made? I have found a mixture of English and metric threads on the same machine. If it's missing,you might want to take the worm with you.

You could sharpen a pencil till it will just enter the hole. Twist it in 4 or 5 turns. Check the engraved threads on the pencil with a thread gauge,or possibly taps you might have to determine the thread.Or,take the threaded pencil with you and compare its thread to the available set screws..

[Stephen Edwards]

Thanks for your replies folks. To be clear, When I turn the elevation handle the "worm,screw thingy" does turn.

I'm not really clear about which set screw you guys are talking about. The set screw that holds the handle on to the end of the worm shaft is in place and working. Unlike some handles that I've seen, the set screw on this one is a screw that goes through the center of the front of the handle and fits into a threaded hole in the end of the worm shaft. There's a flat spot on the shaft that accommodates a corresponding flat place in the hole in the center of the handle. You line up the flat spots, attach the handle and put the screw through the center of handle into the end of shaft.

Then, when I turn the handle (and the worm turns, also) rather than the worm staying in position and raising or lowering the blade, the threaded rod simply threads through the cogs on the gear of the piece that actually is supposed to move up and down.

If I'm understanding you guys correctly, there may be another set screw somewhere that is supposed to keep the worm in position?

This saw's parts are all SAE, no metric hardware. It was manufactured in 1999. The plate on the saw says "Built In USA". I guess that doesn't mean that all the parts are USA made, but the hardware isn't metric. Thanks for the suggestion, though. I'll certainly keep that in mind for my other machines.

I may have to end of taking the whole mess apart to fix this. I dread that! Not long ago I did a complete alignment tune up on the saw. One thing about a problem with a machine: we get to know our machine.

I still have the owner's manual. It can be seen online at:

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Support/?warrantyMenu=%23&warrantyMenu=%23&criteria=TS2424&selectType=

The problem is with part numbers 38 (the worm, aka screw, lift) and 45 (housing and arbor). Makes my head hurt to look at all of those parts!

[Greg Sznajdruk]

It appears from looking at the parts breakdown that what you describe is that the worm gear is moving back and forth and the saw blade stays in the same position. Looking at the exploded view part 34 and 43 hold the worm gear in place. With the worm gear held in place the arbour will move up or down on the shaft that part 47 retain ring is secured to. Look and see if part 34 and 43 are in place.

Greg

Edit: if these two parts are missing it appears that the worm gear and handle could be backed out completely.

[Stephen Edwards]

It appears from looking at the parts breakdown that what you describe is that the worm gear is moving back and forth and the saw blade stays in the same position. Looking at the exploded view part 34 and 43 hold the worm gear in place. With the worm gear held in place the arbour will move up or down on the shaft that part 47 retain ring is secured to. Look and see if part 34 and 43 are in place.

Greg

Edit: if these two parts are missing it appears that the worm gear and handle could be backed out completely.

Hey Greg,

Thanks for the tip. You may be correct. I'm going to remove the extension wings, rails, motor and also remove the cabinet from the legs. Then, I can turn the saw upside down and really see what's going on.

I called the Ridgid CS line and they told me that this would be under warranty. When I bought this saw in 2000 they offered a lifetime warranty with the saw. Next, I called the authorized service center, which happens to be a guy that I know. It appears that if I can't fix it myself that it will be covered under warranty. Hopefully, it'll be a simple fix and back in working order soon.

Thanks again for your help.

[Clay Crocker]

Are you sure nothing is jamming the housing and arbor #45? You said in your OP that the lift screw is engaging the teeth of the housing and arbor assembly and that when you turn the lift screw in or out it turns but not very far in either direction. When you turn the lift screw handle does the sheet metal side (#23 Base) that the lift handle comes through flex? i.e. is the little bit of turning you are able to get on the lift screw because of the flexing of the flimsy sheet metal sides of that particular saw make? Keep in mind that the lift screw should not be moving back and forth, it should be stationary and the teeth of the housing and arbor assembly should move along it.

The reason I ask, is because I used to have a similar saw and I had a problem once when I could not get the saw to tilt. I could turn the the tilt screw handle a few turns in either direction, but the blade angle would not change. Turns out that the tilt mechanism was jammed with a piece of wood and the little bit of turning I could get on the tilt screw was due to the flexing of the sheet metal base.

Not sure if this is your problem, but it sure sounds like something may be jammed.

Clay

[Lee Schierer]

Item #34 is a snap ring. There should be two of them on the shaft (#38) one on each side of the trunnion casting (42). Snap rings are stamped from steel and have a sharp side and a rounded side. The sharp side of item #34 should be facing the casting (42). If the snap ring was not put on with the proper side toward the casting it is possible for the snap ring to pop off the shaft when pressure is applied. This is a fairly common assembly error where snap rings (also called E clips) are used.

The fact that the worm travels to the rear of the saw tells me that the front snap ring has come off or was never there.

[Stephen Edwards]

Item #34 is a snap ring. There should be two of them on the shaft (#38) one on each side of the trunnion casting (42). Snap rings are stamped from steel and have a sharp side and a rounded side. The sharp side of item #34 should be facing the casting (42). If the snap ring was not put on with the proper side toward the casting it is possible for the snap ring to pop off the shaft when pressure is applied. This is a fairly common assembly error where snap rings (also called E clips) are used.

The fact that the worm travels to the rear of the saw tells me that the front snap ring has come off or was never there.

Bingo! That was the problem. I took the motor off, removed the add on DC shroud from the bottom and turned the saw over on its side. That front snap ring had fallen off. Luckily, it was still sitting there on the support lips of the cabinet. When I took off that DC shroud I heard it hit the floor.

Thanks for all of your replies and helping me to get this problem solved. Back in business, now. Much appreciated.

Kind Regards,