Bronze #4 or 4 1/2?

[Gregg Feldstone]

I'm trying to make up my mind between a LN Bronze #4 smoother and their #4 1/2 ( Iron) smoother. I know the dimensional differences, but I would like to know from someone who's used both what the differences in results and ease of use are. Thanks!

[David Keller NC]

I'm trying to make up my mind between a LN Bronze #4 smoother and their #4 1/2 ( Iron) smoother. I know the dimensional differences, but I would like to know from someone who's used both what the differences in results and ease of use are. Thanks!

Gregg - That's an unanswerable question. The #4 and #4-1/2 are simply different planes in lots of ways. But here's some guidance based on my own experience:

What kind of wood? Softwoods and softer hardwoods like poplar are easier to plane, and a wider blade can be used than on a harder wood given the same shaving thickness.

Do you mostly work straight-grained stock, or highly figured? If you work straight-grained stock, choose a standard planing angle of 45 degrees. The planing effort and edge life is considerably better at this angle. If you mostly work highly figured woods, then consider a High Angle Frog when you get it from L-N. The #4 can be had with a 50 degree frog, the #4-1/2 can be had with a 50 or a 55 degree frog.

What size projects do you work on? If the answer is standard and larger sized furniture pieces, the 4-1/2 will serve you well. If you mostly make smaller items like jewelry boxes, the #4 will be easier to maneuver.

I have both of these planes, btw - either are excellent tools, and the difference between them is not all that huge - I rather doubt you'll be kicking yourself for not making the "right" decision no matter which you choose.

[Matt Stiegler]

At WIA yesterday, Christopher Schwarz made a point of expressing his preference for 4 or 3 over 4 1/2 for smoothing. He said he thinks 4 1/2 is too long for smoothing.

His point, if I understood it correctly, was that a longer sole will do more flattening, and when you're smoothing a show side that flattening is wasted effort. (His example was a cabinet, where the outer faces you want smooth but they don't need to be dead flat, vs. the inner faces you want dead flat but don't need perfectly smooth.) Older 4 1/2 smoothers are a lot more rare than 4's for a reason, said he.

That's his view, I have no idea myself. There seem to be a lot of fans out there of 4 1/2s and of the 2 LV bevel up smoothers, and they're both longer than a 4, so Schwarz's view is plainly not universally held.

[Jim Koepke]

All planes tend to have their area of "specialty." The 4-1/2 can not be used in as small an area as a 3 or 4, but then why not get a 1 or a 2?

My 4-1/2 often gets used on smaller pieces where the blade is wider than the face being planed. This makes a full width of the face shaving. A 3 or a 4 would possibly leave tracks to clean up.

Then, in the 1934 catalog, the Stanley/Bailey 4-1/2 lists for 70¢ more than the 4. That was a good chunk of change to many people in those days.

Consider that a lot of the people buying planes in those days may have been carpenters and not cabinet makers the price and uses may have been a lot of reason there was not as much demand for the 4-1/2. Taking a few shavings off of a window's or door's edge is the job the 4 or 5 does very well.

Did the average retailer at the time carry a full line of Stanley planes? Most probably carried the items that moved off the shelves the quickest.

The 3 is not as common as the 4. Does this mean it is not as useful for smoothing? No, but it was likely a little narrow for use on door or window frames.

Then there is the hand size issue. The bigger totes used on the 4-1/2, 5, 5-1/2, 6, 7, & 8s fit bigger hands better than the totes on the 3, 4, & 5-1/4s.

A smaller plane is easier to maneuver around shifting grain, but it gets to a point where a scraper or sandpaper may be the way to go.

Just my 2¢,

jim

[Mark Roderick]

I have owned my #4 for a long time and, to tell you the truth, I've never been completely happy with it (I own three other LN planes and am extremely happy with them). I think it's the size, just a little too narrow, especially once you've put a little crown on the blade. I've used the 4 1/2 at a couple woodworking show and that's definitely my next purchase.

[Eddie Darby]

I own a #4 Stanley, and a LN # 4 1/2, and I find myself using the LN more, but that's just because I like the plane more.
At the end of the day you will get the job done with either plane, and given enough of a push down that slippery slope, you will end-up owning more than 1 plane, so either plane will serve you to start things off.

[lowell holmes]

A little off topic, but I have in addition to 604, 605, & 607 Bedrocks, a 4 1/2 LN. Also I have a#3 Bailey and a 5 1/2 Bailey.

I use the 4 1/2 LN frequently. The 604 is similar in size to the LN #4.
I seldom use the 604. If I were choosing between the two LN planes, I would get the 4 1/2.

I'm amazed how often I use the #3. It is really a nice plane to use on tasks where a block plane might be used. It fits nicely between a block plane and the larger planes.

The #3 with a narrow cambered iron does a nice job as a scrub plane.