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JohnT Fitzgerald
09-30-2009, 10:08 PM
Thiss relates to my workshop, but it's not really a 'workshop' post...

How far can a 10x6 timber span without needing a support in the middle?

I have a 4'x9.5' "alcove" in my basement (full foundation) where the kitchen above has a bump-out from the house. The span is about 9.5', with a 10"Hx6"W timber spanning it. There is a lally column right in the middle - I guess the local inspector made the builder install it since it was not on the original plan. See the attached file - the beam is near the top, right near the well tank.

I'd like to get rid of it. Just cutting it out seems like a bad idea, as I really do not know if a column is necessary for a 9.5' span. A second idea is to build a small (2' or so) wall to support one end of the beam (this could be a closet to enclose my well tank) so the span would be 7' or so. A third idea is to have the beam reinforced with a piece of steel (my brother did this in his house), and then remove the column.

Thoughts or experience with something like this?

Greg Cuetara
09-30-2009, 10:35 PM
John,
There are too many variables to say how far your beam can span. If you really want to get rid of the column you should bring in a Structural Engineer to evaluate your house.

If the wall above is not a bearing wall then the beam can span farther but if it is a bearing wall supporting 2 stories above the distance between supports will be shortened. There is also a big variable on the species of the wood. To figure out exactly the distance the beam can span you need to call in an engineer.

Whatever you do DO NOT remove the column. If you need to box out the column or put the column in a wall but don't think that a typical 2x stud wall can replace a lally column.

Greg

JohnT Fitzgerald
09-30-2009, 10:40 PM
There are too many variables to say how far your beam can span. If you really want to get rid of the column you should bring in a Structural Engineer to evaluate your house

Greg - after some very limited reading on load calculations and beam calculations, I agree completely. I'll have to think about it and see how much I *really* want to get rid of that column.

I suppose I could use my grandfather's approach - knock it out, and if nothing else falls down then it's fine. :)

Lee Schierer
10-01-2009, 8:27 AM
Why not replace it with steel?

Brian Effinger
10-01-2009, 9:16 AM
Greg is right. You really need an engineer to figure this out. I have a feeling though that the column is very necessary. I just did a rough calc on it. Assuming the beam is only taking floor load, and is douglas fir #2, it beam fails. If you really want the column gone, you could replace the beam as Lee suggests (again consulting with a professional). A light 8" or 10" steel beam would probably work. You might also be able to get away with a 9-1/4" l.v.l.

Jim Becker
10-01-2009, 9:41 AM
I agree with Gregg...you need a structural engineer to examine this situation.

JohnT Fitzgerald
10-01-2009, 9:43 PM
Why not replace it with steel?


that would be option #4. :)

thanks for the input - sound advice all around.

Jeremy Bryant
10-02-2009, 11:15 AM
Hello John, all you need is some LVL beams. I attached "hopefully" some documents from Georgia Pacific.http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1392. Look under their Products/Engineered Lumber. Download their Floor and Roof Systems Product guide. You will see exactly what any engineer is going to look at and tell you. From what you have described. I am thinking 2-11 1/4" LVL is more than enough for what you need. If you have any doubt throw a 3rd one in there. I have built quite a few homes using these and they are plenty strong. I built my house and have a span of 18' using 3 of them. This is also supporting a Gable wall "load bearing" above it. Hope this helps.

http://www.gp.com/build/DocumentViewer.aspx?repository=BP&elementid=9548

JohnT Fitzgerald
10-02-2009, 11:23 AM
This beam holds up "only" the kiitchen floor (1st floor only - the second floor is supported by a beam in the kitchen ceiling/wall that is supported on each end by studs that rest on the sill plate & foundation.

I like the LVL idea, but I'll have a local contractor we've used before price out different options.