Unisaw kick switches

[Jack Clay]

I have just bought a used Delta Unisaw to replace my Delta Contractor saw. The Contractor had the switch on the left and the Unisaw is on the right. It takes me forever to find the switch after I hit it on the left three times and then I remember it is on the right and way under the fence. I have looked here and on the web at the kick switches and was wondering what has been used with better results. One that hangs down that you can hit with your foot or knee or one that goes all the way across the front that you hit with your knee. If anyone has pictures I would appreciate it.

[David G Baker]

Go to Grizzly's site and look for safety switches. I have one on my old Craftsman table saw and love it. Mine is a paddle switch that I can shut off with my knee, is mounted on the right side of my saw and not nearly as far under the table as the original Craftsman switch. You may have to make a mount of some sort to put the switch where you want it.

[Cary Falk]

When I restored my Uni I got this one from a small outfit in Tennessee? I have it mounted on the left side of my fence and can hit it with my thigh. It is similar to the one that Grizzly and other places offer but it is black and has a button off switch. Price shipped was about the same.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0103a.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0381.jpg

[Matt Day]

I've been waiting to install this one for a while on my saw, just haven't gotten around to it. Comes in 220 and 110 versions. It's basically the same kind I had on my Delta, which I like a lot and is much safer than the one I have now that is mounted below the fence to the right of the blade.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8242

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Thanks for the link Matt.. I'd been looking for something like that to use on my grandfathers old 6" jointer once I restore it and build a decent cabinet.

The old metal stand, which is shaky to say the last has been weighted, measured and found wanting. Plus his old switch was an old fuse box with the lever.. ;)

[Lance Norris]

Heres mine... works great...


http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb97/weblance/woodshop103.jpg

You reach through the hole to press the start switch,and the stop switch sticks out enough that all it takes is a slight push of the paddle to stop the saw. Best mod Ive made to a tool.

[Dan West02]

Here is my version. I can bump it with my knee and keep both hands on the work piece.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

I like that it goes so far over, so you can get it anywhere.. I'd seen someone who did one a smidge shorter that used a pool noodle around the bar and wrapped it with yellow tape like a candy cane. Make it look very danger bar-y. ;)

[Jack Clay]

Do you drill into the bottom of the fence rail bracket to mount the hinge for the bar or paddle? My switch is attached to the saw and the housing on the switch is plastic so I do not want to mount to the plastic. Since this is how you mount the Biesemeyer Fence rail I do not see any problems unless I am missing something. Has anyone moved the switch to this location? I see that they have two holes in the bracket but not in the rail of the fence in front of were the switch is mounted I was wondering if they are for switch relocation. Thank all for the information and pictures. I would appreciate to see any pictures of your switch modification for safety.

[Frank Drew]

I wouldn't want a start switch that could be bumped on accidentally.

A panic stop switch, though, has to be large enough and close enough to hit easily with your leg or whatever when your hands are occupied, but ideally not so close or in the way that you're all the time knocking the saw off in the middle of a cut. (But that would be merely annoying compared to the potential disaster of an inadvertent start of the saw.)

[Lance Norris]

Do you drill into the bottom of the fence rail bracket to mount the hinge for the bar or paddle? My switch is attached to the saw and the housing on the switch is plastic so I do not want to mount to the plastic. Since this is how you mount the Biesemeyer Fence rail I do not see any problems unless I am missing something.

Mine is a Unifence. The bottom of the rail has a machined slot and I simply slid in the proper sized bolt head that fit into the slot. The slot is there for an adjustable stop that Ive never used.