New to the hobby. Need beginner tool advice.

[Will Boulware]

Hi all! I'm new to this addiction as well as this forum, and I thought I'd make my introduction in my favorite area.

I've built a few utilitarian items and done some work on decks, framing, remodeling, etc. here and there, but fine woodworking is all new to me. I don't intend to do any sort of woodworking for a living, but it's great therapy after I come home from work! Looking at it from this angle, I'm really leaning towards using hand tools as much as possible. Don't get me wrong, I love my powered stuff, but I am amazed by the work people are getting done without plugging in a cord, and I think I'd rather start from this side of the fence.

I've been reading a lot here and in various books, as well as scouring youtube and other places for instruction on various processes. The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know. Funny how that works...

Can anybody offer some advice as to what I'll need to get started? I've got a "workbench" made from 2x6's and 4x4's that was built for hammering on car parts rather than woodworking. I've got framing squares, levels, and a few other measuring devices as well as the standard assortment of power tools present in most garages. What sort of hand tools would you recommend to help get me started? I can't buy them all at once, but say I've got a $200-300 budget for a first run to the tool store. What would you buy if you were starting over?

Thanks in advance. This seems to be a great place, and I look forward to sticking around for a long time!

[Matt Hankins]

Start with a good vise for that workbench. Then you need a project. Buy the hand tools you need for that project. Just collecting tools is a good way to spend money, but it's not going to amount to much if you don't have what you need to make what you want. Look into taking some classes as well, especially sharpening classes. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to learn on dull tools. Your budget will stretch if you buy tools that need to be tuned up. I would recommend a Stanley flea market block plane, some sharpening stones and a sharpening class. Once you can sharpen your own tools the sky's the limit. Have fun,

Matt

[Don C Peterson]

Welcome to the Creek Will!

I'm a big proponent of buying tools when the need comes up. What do you want to make? I'd examine your intended projects and decide (or ask) what tools will be necessary.

I'll second Matt's advice on sharpening though. There are several methods of sharpening, each with their own strengths and weaknesses, but the "scary sharp" method probably presents the lowest initial cost (even if the costs in the long run add up). A major running theme throughout neanderhood is sharpening.

[Michael Schwartz]

This is what I would get, and pretty much what I started out with.



Lie Nielsen strait handle dovetail saw $75.00
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1281

This is the saw I use and started out with. Pretty affordable and it is a nice saw to learn with.

Starett 12" Combination Square $ 78.00
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=CSQ

No substitutions here, the starett is prefect in every way and will last you a lifetime. You have to use one to appreciate it but once you do it will inspire to take your work to a new level of accuracy. Worth the money in every way.

Lie Nielsen Low Angle Block Plane $165.00
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=60_5

If your going to buy one premium plane this is the one.

Set of Marpels (Irwin Blue Chip) Bench Chisels $40.00
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000294/1572/Irwin-Blue-Chip-Chisel-Set--4-piece.aspx

Lower quality, but they will get you started. I grew out of mine and reground them into skews etc... that don't get used much or beat on so they stay sharp for a while.

Pre War Stanley #4 and or #5 Bench Planes. From dealers you will pay a premium, but if you find a good deal at a flea market you can get them for next to nothing.

Don't buy a marking knife until you absolutely want one, a cheap snap blade utility knife, scalpel, or a #2 pencil will work just fine. I know plenty of furniture makers who produce the finest of hand cut joints with nothing but a pencil line.

As far as sharpening get something flat and some 3M micro abrasive sand paper, Lee Valley sells this. A Norton combination 4000/8000 water stone is also very nice to have.

The above links are more or less there to show the tools, you can probably find better prices if you shop arround.

Finaly I would recommend reading the hand plane book by Garret Hack, if you want to get into planes.

[RickT Harding]

I'll agree/disagree.

I'd skip the vise. You can really do a lot with dog holes and wedges and holdfasts. So I guess I'd get a 3/4 drill bit, holdfasts and make up some dogs. I think you'd be able to do more with the $$ than getting a vise on there.

I completely agree on the sharpening though. With a light budget sandpaper is the best route there.

As far as tools, what you need to get the job done is a good call. You don't really say what type of stuff you plan on doing.

I started out with a #4 and #5 and from there went to #7, block, and on from there. It seemed to work out ok. I really do much chisel work to start, but am starting to reach for them more/more.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Hi Will,

Welcome to the Creek & the world of working wood by hand ;).

Depending on how much you want to do by hand, I have been doing a podcast over the last several months that may be of interest to you if you like that sort of thing. I work entirely by hand so there are some tools that I use that you may not need but you should be able to weed that out as you go. You can check out the podcast here. (http://logancabinetshoppe.weebly.com/podcast.html) Start with episode #2. I went over my own recommendations for a basic tool set to get started woodworking by hand. From there, you can check out the others but be sure to check out episodes #s 5-8 on sharpening all of the different tools in a hand tool shop. I'll also be starting a project series very soon that you might be interested in.

I think $200-300 is a very good budget if you stay away from all the bling and learn to tune up old tools. If you want new, premium tools, your budget won't get you very far. You will have to make this decision for yourself. You need to decide if you want to put in more time or more money.

More money will get you top of the line tools that are almost ready to go out of the box and not require hardly any of your time. On the other hand, you can spend less and buy older tools but these will require more of your time to tune up. Again this is a choice you need to make for yourself.

Either way, welcome aboard and ask plenty of questions here. There are lots of helpful folks here that are more than willing to shove you down the slope :D.

[Richard Niemiec]

If you are just starting out, its important for you to understand what type of work you want to do. Generally, its better to buy tools based upon a particular "need" for a specific project, as putting together a full kit of handtools is not only time consuming but can be rather expensive.

As to makers of bench planes, well, nobody can argue with Lie Nielsen as a source, but frankly, you might find better initial value in "retail" new tools at Lee Valley if you are on a budget. Some say one should get a new plane as a "reference" plane so you know how they "should" work, and that has some merit although its not the path I took. Remember, all edge tools require sharpening, so buy yourself a book and learn. Tautnon Press (the Fine Woodworking Folks) has a few good titles. All a plane is, in the end, is a jig that holds an iron, and if the iron is not sharp the plane is not going to work. Older Stanley planes are your best bet and can be had for modest prices as compared to new 'retail' planes, stay away from Groz, Anant, and such others as you will get nothing but frustration.

Western saws (i.e., LN, LV) are great, I have many, but for newbies the Japanese pull saws just might be easier to start out with, and they can be had for less money; don't buy them at Home Depot or Lowes, check out LV's site, Woodcraft, Tools for Working Wood, and many other sources.

Someone suggested chisels, well, these are basic requirements for most all hand work, and the Marples Blue Chip are a good beginner's set, not all that expensive. Again, stay away from and HD or Lowes product lines as they are really construction grade tools.

But first, figure out what you want to be as a woodworker, and go from there.

[jim hedgpeth]

I tend to go in catagories, with multiple tools in each. Ones that work, without breaking the budget, and will still have a purpose when you upgrade later are where I would start.

A) measuring/marking tools-
1)a combi. square, for now a better hardware store one will work, and if it gets dropped its no big loss. As long as you check it occasionally it will work, just not as smooth. Staretts are nice, but IMHO best left till you are more established, then get it as a "splurge".
2) an exacto knife or something to the effect. Cheap, readily avalable, and work fine. Just like the square there are better ones out there, but money goes further if careful. Besides, when you upgrade you will still find uses for this stuff.
3) A marking gauge or three, I have the Veritas micro adj. non graduated and cannot believe how big of difference it has made in my work. A lot less mistakes useing it to transfer measurements instead of compounding tape measure inacurasies.
4) a large square, which it sounds like you already have.

B) saws- if you plan to go comletely powerless you will need more than I have (so far)
1) a large rip saw, power workers tend to use a tablesaw for most of these cuts, including me, so I'll leave the particulars to someone like Robert R.
2) a large crosscut saw, same as above
3)A good miter saw, cut pieces to length at exactly 90*, or 45* a corner, or any angle in between. I wanted/needed one for a long time, now have a 358 Stanley and have used it so much already it is my second most used tool outside of the marking instruments. I have been kicking myself for not getting one sooner, could have saved myself a lot of headaches.
4) Joinery saws, there can be several if one gets very specialized. The basics seem to be the famous dovetail saw, and a couple carcass saws- one rip and one crosscut. I will disagree here on one thing mentioned above, whatever style you like, get. IMHO why get used to a pull saw if you intend to use a western style saw later? Get a old one (or several) that is straight and true, and learn to sharpen it. They will work fine, and you will want to learn to sharpen it anyway. If you trash one its not going to hurt the walet as much as a LN. Plenty of info on sharpening here, just do a search.

C) Planes- ooooo where to start, you will want many! I wont get in to brands, for the most part, just be sure you learn to sharpen them. I would start with these and keep adding.
1) a low angle block plane, I use mine more than any tool outside of marking tools. (see a patern here? Marking tools are probably the most important of all.) A simple jig for 45* and it eases edges, it also trims end grain flush, slises, dises, ect. Very handy.
2) Something for straightening larger stock. Here is the place I recomend a new tool. Flattening the bottom of a plane the size of these is very hard, and time consuming. Also here is the chance for a referance of how they are supposed to work. Depending on how big of projects you tend to do, either a jack or jointer. My preference is toward the LV bevel ups. The jack will probably get the most milage out of the gate. Flat, square sides allow it to be used for shooting endgrain. Its long enough to get boards pretty flat and straight, espesialy if they are less than say 4'. Get a second blade at a higher angle, 38-50 say, and it can smooth larger pieces ok.
3) A smoother. Final finish is what these do, and do well. Faster than sandpaper, and less mess. Don't work well with all woods though, and diferent ones, or setups may work better on a given wood. If there is any hand tool you are likely to have 50 of the same type tool, this would be it. Be warned, many find them addictive.:D
4) Not realy a handplane, but card scrapers are "handy" for times when the wood just wont behave.

D) chisels, a set of Marples will get you going on a budget. Again learn to sharpen them, by whatever means, well. These will most likely be added to later, but with what depends a lot on what you do.


Those would be the ones I would have started with if I had it to do over. May have saved myself a lot of frustration if I had.

OK, I have bored you enough, I will shut up now.
Sorry for such a long post.

Jim

[Matt Stiegler]

Hi Will, welcome to SMC from another newbie.

You're getting good advice from everyone, but I think there's a basic problem you're going to have to come to grips with: its real tough to get equipped for serious woodworking unless you have either a fair bit of experience or a fair bit of money to spend.

The experienced folks can buy used because they can spot the diamonds in the rough and they have the skills to tune them up. That's not me and it sounds like it might not be you. Of course, if you're patient and persistent and determined to learn, you can start off this way, plenty have.

Your alternative is to buy stuff you know is going to work well, from places like Lee Valley and Lie Nielsen. But that's expensive, and $300 may not really get you far enough to actually do very much. Michael's suggestions all sounded intelligent to me, for example, but $350 later you may still be struggling to actually make anything with a dovetail saw, a square, a block plane, and a set of chisels. So if you head down this path, I think you ought to recognize that 2 or 3 hundred is just your down payment.

Your third option -- an option folks here generally discourage -- is equipping yourself with a core set of cheap tools now as a way to buy yourself time so you can make things (imperfect things) while you find out more about what you enjoy doing and what tools you want to invest in for the long run. I understand the arguments against it (more expensive in the long run, more frustrating in the short run) but if you don't have a lot of experience or money now, you may decide its the only decent option you have. Here again, plenty have.

[Robert Rozaieski]

2) Something for straightening larger stock.....Flat, square sides allow it to be used for shooting endgrain.

I'm not picking on Jim here, he's just repeating what has been said probably a gazillion times before all over the net and the magazines. But this is a very common myth and misconception. A plane absolutely does not have to have sides square to the sole in order to be able to be used on a shooting board, so don't get hung up on this. When using a shooting board, the surface of the shooting board and the fence of the shooting board are the references, not the plane being used to do the planing. I have used almost every plane I own on my shooting board and none of them has a sole absolutely square to the sides.

What is important is that the iron in whatever plane you use for shooting can be adjusted to be square to the shooting board surface. This is what lateral adjustment levers are for or plane adjusting hammers. As long as the iron can be made square to the shooting board surface, by means of the lateral adjuster or light taps with a small hammer, the angle between the sole and side of the plane is irrelevant.

Sorry to get off topic :D.

[Will Boulware]

Wow! In 3 hours I've gotten an abundance of information! I like the comment about needing a project. I think I'll figure that out first. I've looked into some Woodcraft classes too. Probably sign up for a few of those in the near future, especially if they've got one on sharpening! :eek:

As a clarification, I meant I've probably got $300 this month to spend. I'm not disillusioned enough to think I'd have a complete setup for a few franklins. Had to laugh at myself for not better explaining that. :D

It sounds like I seriously need to look into measuring and sharpening stuff as well. I hadn't completely overlooked this stuff, but I apparently didn't understand just how important they were.

Thanks again for the prompt replies! This site is great!

[jim hedgpeth]

It doesn't bother me to be corrected by someone with more experience. I learn a lot of valuable info that way. Thanks Robert, I will keep that in mind.

Will, definitely don't forget the (basic) stuff many overlook/ take for granted. Knowing where your cut, detail needs to be is very important to good fit and finish.
I also am a "buy what you need for the project at hand" type of guy.

The work holding tools will make a big difference too, as many have stated. A vise can be worked around for a little while though. I am still trying different things to decide how I will want my workbench. It is IMHO the biggest part of the work holding category. My planing stop for now is a scrap C clamped to the edge of my table saw, fully adjustable and had it on hand. Point is, dont overlook using what you already have in new ways.

Learn all you can, this site is a very good resource to have. Many knowledgeable people here.

Off to work, later everyone,
Jim

[Matt Stiegler]

A serious woodworking bench would be one natural choice for first big project. Lots of great ideas on this site (searching old posts) or Scott Landis' Workbench Book (http://www.amazon.com/Workbench-Book-Craftsmans-Workbenches-Woodworking/dp/1561582700/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1254252292&sr=8-1).

[Jim Koepke]

Welcome to the Creek Will.

Your profile does not list your home town, most of us are friendly enough to get together to give pointers on sharpening and such if we live near by.

My idea is to approach this from a different angle. Well, it is kind of similar to those who say to pick a project then buy the tools.

My thought is to suggest your first projects. That would be a bench jack and a shooting board. These will give a little hands on experience and over time, you will be building them as the old ones wear out. My bench jacks are usually made with miter cuts along the edges for guiding a saw while cutting. They can be made double ended. That is the part that hangs over the edge of the bench can be a miter guide of one height and the one standing up can be different. Then just flip it over for different uses. The shooting board will come in handy for smoothing and squaring ends of pieces from the saw. It could be make one side a shooting board and the other side a bench jack. You decide, but you will likely end up making more in the years to come.

Most of the tools you will need may already be in your possession. A drill, screwdriver, saw, square and a good plane.

My likes are a little different than others. For me my favorite shooting board plane is an old Stanley 65-1/2. Just about any plane can be made to work. This plane has a lever type cap that I find more comfortable for this work than the knuckle cap that is on my Stanley 65. Just because it is more comfortable in my hand does not mean it will be so in your hand. This low angle block plane is one where I would suggest going into the local woodworking store if there is one and handle them to see how they feel.

For more information about Stanley planes, do a search for Patrick blood & gore. That phrase will get you to his sight via Google. I think the top few hits will get you to his Supertool.com site. wink wink nudge nudge.


The shooting board and bench jack are both easy projects that can be made fairly easily and the wood can all be smoothed using just the block plane if you start with relatively smooth wood to start. The shooting board will give some experience with putting something together square. If you want to do dovetails and other projects, you will find putting something together is a lot easier using stock that is square.

One thing you may want to buy is clamps. There is an old saying among woodworkers, "you can never have too many clamps."

As someone else said, you can do a lot with a C clamp. If you do not have a vise, clamps can work for you until you do get to the point of putting a vise into your bench or build a new bench with a vise or two. If you do want to build a bench, you will need lots of clamps to build the top. If there is a clamp at a yard sale, I will almost always buy it if it is priced right.

There are quite a few great sources of information on the internet, this is one of them. Look to the top of the Neanderthal Haven conference and you will see the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs. There is a lot of information in there from work benches and sharpening to finding and using old tools.

Rehabing old tools can be as much fun as woodworking. Look at my "Fettling old metal planes" to see what can be done on the cheap. That plane looked like a train wreck, but it was still on the track. With a sharp blade, that plane will do just as good a job as one that will cost more than 10 times as much. Every time it is used, my thoughts are, "hope I'm as good as this plane when I'm almost 120 years old." Every shaving that plane makes gives me more pleasure than any $300 dollar plane could.

jim

[James Scheffler]

Lots of good advise has been posted above. I would think about picking one or two "operations" that you feel most drawn to and get the tools you need for them. For example, I started with a smooth plane because I don't enjoy sanding. At the same time, I didn't have a planer, so it made sense to have a jack plane and a jointer plane. So I got a No. 5 Stanley and a transitional jointer. Then I built a couple projects using handplanes for thicknessing and smoothing, and used power tools for everything else. That way, I learned planing and I was able to complete the projects with only a reasonable level of frustration.

Now I'm learning a bit more about handsawing and plan to learn to sharpen saws. Perhaps I'll find a project that needs dovetails, and use that for practice.

I don't have a bandsaw, so I'll probably buy a bowsaw to do some of the things bandsaws are good for. I'll use it for a project.

After that, maybe I'll learn to cut mortises "from scratch" instead of drilling them out first.

My point is, starting small and building skills one at a time may be better than jumping in head first....

Have fun!

Jim

[Mark Roderick]

Here's something I wrote for a friend of mine.

[Matt Stiegler]

Here's something I wrote for a friend of mine.



Lucky friend, Mark.

[Joe Close]

What Mark has outlined is about as good a direction as it comes, IMHO. Simple and straight forward.

I don't see a reason to re-hash the tool list that others have provided. But I will say, buying tools for the project is another very good piece of advise, as previously mentioned. I did not do that, and have a couple of tools that I still have not used to date. That equates to $ spent, that I wish I had today to buy other tools that I now have a need for. :confused:

I think a bench of some sort is important. You will need something sturdy to hold your wood as you work. I started out w/ a maple top from Grizzly, the thickest one they had, 30"x72x1.75", less than $200 delivered. Put it on two saw horses, and mounted a face vise on it. Drilled some 3/4" dog holes, and I was in business. I found that the top moved a bit on the saw horses, and after 6 months of that, I built a rudimentary leg/base assembly using doug fir and carriage bolts. It's not pretty, but it serves its purpose for now. Eventually, I will build the dream bench, like most others have.

Books and DVD's have been tremendous source of help for me, a couple of favorites:
Chrsitopher Schwarz's "Coarse, Medium, Fine: Fundemental Woodworking Techniques." This was really helpful in laying out the different hand planes and their uses. He may cover this topic in his new book as well, not sure though.
David Charlesworth's, "Hand Tool Techniques Part 1: Plane Sharpening". I thought this was another another good dvd. Related: Also research "Scary Sharp technique, this is really a simple and straight forward technique. I generally find myself using Scary Sharp more often, but I do also utilize Charlesworth techiques w/ the Scary Sharp, which is why I mention both here.

Learn to sharpen tools. They will become dull quickly, and a dull tool is, 1) not fun to use, 2) creates less than satisfactory results. Both of these will turn you off of hand tools. It is absolutely amazing what a well sharpened tool will do, and how well it will do it.

I'm rambling now...:eek: Go have fun!

[Richard Niemiec]

Here's something I wrote for a friend of mine.



One may be able to quibble a bit, but nobody can argue with what you put in the memo. Nice summary of experience upon which to build. Bravo.

RN

[jim hedgpeth]

As many have said, learning to sharpen is important, and should be one of the first "skills" you start practicing. A dull tool not only lacks performance, but can be dangerous as well. Dull paring chisels particularly are a good example, when forced can slip into ..... well hopefully not flesh.

Two other "tools" that are important, and not often mentioned, a good reference source, and a will to try.
You posted here, and are reading the responses so you have the first covered, SMC is a great resource to have.
Dont be afraid to try new techniques/ projects, at worst you will learn it didn't work out, then you know to look for more detailed info on why. At best, you will be surprised how easily it comes to you once you start.

Jim

[Mark Roderick]

Thank you for the compliments! It's really just a list of basic things I wish someone had told me before I started. For each of us, the list would undoubtedly be a bit different, but you have to start somewhere.

[Richard Niemiec]

OP: check out

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm

[george wilson]

Is your workbench soaked in automotive oil from working on cars? You need to have a clean bench. Maybe nail plywood over the top,at least.

Your bench might not be able to use holdfasts effectively as is,so,I advise a vise. thing is,you can spend most of your money on a vise. I don't know where you are located.Near any flea markets? A good vise can often be had for $25.00 from an old school shop around here. I know a good vise is essential,unless you have a workbench that can use holdfasts both on the top,and on the sides of the bench. Even then,for smaller parts,you need a vise.

The Asian knock offs of Record vises are usually pretty decent. I use one myself.

I further advise getting used planes,and other tools as much as possible to stretch your money.