table saw top protector

[Howard Miller]

Need good stuff to keep my table saw top from rusting.

Have used Johnson Past Wax, but will not keep out the rust spots.

[Joe Scharle]

Bioshield T9

[Michael Peet]

Bioshield T9

That's what I use too (on my bandsaw; I don't have a tablesaw yet).

[Peter Aeschliman]

There's also a product called "TopSaver" that I use (rockler sells it). Seems to work ok.

[Jim Rimmer]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=119438

Check this thread where I asked a similar question.

[Cliff Holmes]

I tried Boeshield and Topsaver, neither one as effective as Johnson's Paste Wax.

[Myk Rian]

After cleaning the top with Bar Keepers Friend I use a heat gun to melt Johnsons paste wax into the surface. I then buff it.

[Lewis Cobb]

After cleaning the top with Bar Keepers Friend I use a heat gun to melt Johnsons paste wax into the surface. I then buff it.

Never heard about the heat gun approach but thinking about it sure makes sense. Thanks for the tip.

[Tom Winship]

I asked a similar question a few months ago and got the same basic response. The light bulb that came on was the recommendation to remove rust using Bar Keepers Friend and WD40 slurry. Works better for removing than anything I've ever used.

[Cliff Holmes]

I use a heat gun to melt Johnsons paste wax

Hmm, I wonder about this. I got a can of Johnson's last year and tried it, it was OK. I lost it and got another one that had obviously been stored somewhere hot, the wax had melted and congealed into a blob on one side of the can. That can of wax has worked beautifully, I wonder if the melting changes it somehow ... ?

[Cary Falk]

I use T9 and paste wax.

[Izzy Camire]

Last I had to move my table saw to my barn which was under contruction because I needed it to do the work. It had Top Saver and then wax on it and it got rusty pretty quickly. I ended up removing the rust with Rust Free and I then applied Boshield T9. After that I applied wax and I never had anymore rust.

[Rob Hermann]

I have terrible rust problems in my shop. It is on the other side of the wall from a 400 gallon saltwater aquarium system so you can imagine the humidity, year 'round. I use paste wax and found it lasts the longest but for me that is about 10-15 days only. I broke down and bought the magnetic cover from woodcraft. It has been worth its weight in gold to me. I would HIGHLY recommend it. Now, I wax about every 3 months and the saw is always ready to go.

[Josiah Bartlett]

Never heard about the heat gun approach but thinking about it sure makes sense. Thanks for the tip.

Great idea. In fact, you could probably do that with straight paraffin and get a harder wax surface that might last longer.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

All those rust preventive / protectant treatments are all pretty much the same and are all made from pretty damn cheap ingredients.


Boshield T9 is mineral spirits and mineral oil.
http://www.theruststore.com/msds/MSDS_T9_Liquid_2005.pdf

WD 40 is petroleum oil (deoderized kero) Mineral spirits and something they call a Proprietary surfactant which is probably a wax
http://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf

I've researched most all these protectant products. They are all pretty much the same. Kero or fuel oil is common, mineral spirits is common and some kind of wax is common.

Bullfrog and Rain X use an Ester Alcohol to sheet water off.
Rain X does not work for metal because it does not stop the transmission of the ions that cause rust.

In a damp environment the only real solution is to get a dehumidifier.

[Stephen Edwards]

I've been using Howard Citrus Shield Premium Natural Paste Wax. The local hardware store didn't have the other brand name. I like it for the tools and woodworking projects.

[Cliff Holmes]

Boshield T9 is mineral spirits and mineral oil.
http://www.theruststore.com/msds/MSDS_T9_Liquid_2005.pdf

WD 40 is petroleum oil (deoderized kero) Mineral spirits and something they call a Proprietary surfactant which is probably a wax
http://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf


I think an MSDS only requires info on ingredients that are hazardous. They're not a complete recipe for a product, listing non-hazardous ingredients is optional. I find it very hard to believe that T9 is merely an oil, it forms a definite film that is non-oily.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I have terrible rust problems in my shop. It is on the other side of the wall from a 400 gallon saltwater aquarium system so you can imagine the humidity, year 'round. I use paste wax and found it lasts the longest but for me that is about 10-15 days only. I broke down and bought the magnetic cover from woodcraft. It has been worth its weight in gold to me. I would HIGHLY recommend it. Now, I wax about every 3 months and the saw is always ready to go.

I actually thought of that idea... didn't realize there was a product out there for it.

From what I can tell, you can save about half if you just buy your own rolls of magnetic sheeting and make your own. I might actually do that myself and cutting pieces for my jointer and planer as well. I'm sick of spending so much time maintaining tools!

[James Henderson]

In addition to applying T9, I ordered some magnetic sign sheet material from eBay and cut it to size for each of the flat surfaces on my TS, BS, jointer, and planer. They are removed or reinstalled in seconds, and provide a gap-free covering to eliminate any chance of condensation forming on these surfaces. Cost was ~50 in total.

[Randall Clark]

I have been using renaissance wax for several years and I like how hard it stays. It seems to last a little longer than regular paste wax. It costs more, though.

[Fred Foss]

Jim -- did you manage to find wider than 24" or is that the max? I assume you could tape two pieces together but a solid piece would be neater
:confused:
fred


In addition to applying T9, I ordered some magnetic sign sheet material from eBay and cut it to size for each of the flat surfaces on my TS, BS, jointer, and planer. They are removed or reinstalled in seconds, and provide a gap-free covering to eliminate any chance of condensation forming on these surfaces. Cost was ~50 in total.

[James Henderson]

I believe I ordered a roll measuring 10' by 24". That worked out perfectly, since my TS bed is 24" deep. All other tools have workbed surfaces which are less than 24".

[Paul Ryan]

I fit major problems with the weather here in MN. The worst is in the spring when the snow starts melting and the ground it cold but the air is warm. That makes the air like pea soup and everything unless it is covered rusts. I have tried just about every type of coating you can think of and none of those by them selves worked to my satisfaction. What I found that works the best for the big piece of cast iron that a table saw is. The magnetic cover. It fit 27x44" tops, I still coat with paste wax and T-9, but when it gets real ugly out, I put the magnetic cover on. Works like a charm have not had anything representing any type of corrosion since I have used that method.

[Steven Lavergne]

Jim -- did you manage to find wider than 24" or is that the max? I assume you could tape two pieces together but a solid piece would be neater
:confused:
fred


try this link for 42"wide http://www.custom-magnets.com/39Inch_Magnetic_Rolls.htm

[Steven Lavergne]

Fred, since i'm 50 miles from the coast "as the crow flies" i am going to try the magnetic sheeting as well. johnston's paste wax is not cutting it for me. Did order a can of T-9, guess I'll give that a shot first when it gets here

[Doug Carpenter]

I bought a magnetic cover from Eagle America. It was $50. My shop is my garage and my dryer vents into it! something I'm going to change soon. (enen though I have put up with it for 12 years!) My other problem is that oher people in my family who shall go unmentioned (my wife) often puts pop cans, coffee mugs and whatnot on my table saw as she is leaving the house!:mad:

I use Butcher's bolwing alley wax once in a while and between the two my top requires very little effort.

Incedentally I use the same wax on my concrete countertops.....but that's another thread.

I am happy with the magnetic cover. It has some nice reference tables on it and looks nice to. They make a small one for drill presses and the like as well.

[Brian Walter]

I heat my shop/garage in the winter months (no higher than about 45 degrees unless I'm working) and when I park snow packed cars in the garage all the snow melts and drips onto the floor. So I'm sure the humidity level is quite high at times. I have been simply placing a sheet of corrugated cardboard on top of my saw mostly to protect it, but I haven't been having any problems with rusting. I also use paste wax about once a year, but that's it. My better half often times set pop cans and coffee mugs on top of the saw while she was getting into or out of the car and forgets them there. So after the first few rust spots I started covering my saw with the cardboard.

Brian Walter

[Rye Crane]

I use to use T-9 and paste wax then a technician who came out to the shop for a commissioning told me to try LPS-3 for the cast iron. You just spray a little on a rag and wipe it down. A slight waxy film stays put and I've had no rust in two years. I also use LPS-2 & 1 to lube my sliding table bearing races as well as the lifting/tilting screws. The lubricant stays put and does not attract dust. No dust, no rust.

I live about 4 blocks from a 1 mile wide river and the humidity is always about 75% here.

Good luck,
Rye Crane
Pittsburg, Ca.

[Bruce Volden]

OK, since it hasn't been mentioned yet, I use baby powder. I still apply wax and rub that out then salt 'er down with baby powder (smells good too!). Has not had any ill effects on my projects in the past 5 years I've bee using it.

Bruce