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Chris Haas
09-28-2009, 9:36 PM
my tree trimmer friend called me today and asked if i wanted any white oak. i said sure, afterall, never turn down wood right.

anyways, i try to steer away from red and live oak as they check real easy, is white oak any different? any help would be great, and if your in the tampa bay area, pm me and i can hook you up with this guy.

Bill Bolen
09-28-2009, 9:52 PM
WO cracks readily. Once you have a bowl roughed out the lip will rise at the pith area like an inverted V. But...the wood is pretty and turns well. Those Rays add a lot to any piece...Bill..

Leo Van Der Loo
09-28-2009, 10:45 PM
Chris I have good luck with Oak if going thinner towards the base, as there's less distortion you don't need the 10% wall thickness of the rim, but only the 10% of the width at that point.
As the wood dries and the side-walls get lower they will pull hard on the ends of the bowl, by slowing the drying, especially in the first week or two, you have a good chance of having the bowl survive without splitting, though it isn't a very strong wood in it's tissue connection, the extra patience is certainly worth it, as it is a very nice showing wood with all the rays in it.
One caution, I don't use a tenon, especially on woods like Oak, the extra thickness does give rise to splitting in the tenon in my experience, so I use the recess to hold the pieces :)

Chris Haas
09-29-2009, 3:11 PM
good idea with the recess. hopefully i can get it to work for me. thanks guys.

Dennis Ford
09-29-2009, 4:01 PM
Consider doing one or two pieces in a single session, turn it thin while wet and let it warp. This works really well with natural edge pieces and can produce some interesting effects with goblets, vases etc.

charlie knighton
09-29-2009, 8:32 PM
here is some spalted southern red oak

wood blank was kept in cardboard barrel for about 9 months, with dry shavings, no anchorseal, then turned with tenon

6 x 6

i call it Leapfrog