Router table design questions?

[Jay Yoder]

I sold my Bosch router table and router this weekend, so time has arrived for me to begin to design my new table. I already have the router (PC 7518) and the lift (WoodPecker PRL). Currently I am debating between the "Norm" design and possibly utilizing the space to the right side of my Jet saw. Any input? If I decide to go the stand alone route, which works better MDF or Plywood? I have seen both designs. It will be in my basement, so water is not a concern. Also, I remember seeing somewhere, to put laminate on both faces. Is this necessary considering my shop is inside? I know I saw something on this forum, but when I tried to search the forum, the search wouldn't work.

[glenn bradley]

I run my RT on the left of my saw but this is a personal choice of feed direction or dictated by layout. The cabinet is 3/4" BB ply with a 1-3/8" MDF top, PRL and Mil 5625. The top is very well supported from underneath as I learned the hard way about just how short a span of MDF can sag. With proper support, no sag at all since.


P.s. My benchtop is 3" of MDF and is as dead flat as the day I put the top on. This is also well supported. Used properly, MDF is a great product. The lesson was painful enough to stick with me so I haven't had any problems since ;-)

P.p.s Laminate both sides (or neither and just seal and wax) not just one.

[Don Morris]

I've built several and only changed when I upgraded the TS from contractor to cabinet. I put mine on the rt side of a Grizz 1023SL. I have a PC 7518 in a Bench Dog Pro Lift. The MDF route is fine as long as you use at least two layers of at least 3/4" glued with both sides laminated for moisture control. Mine was in a basement too, but that's no guarantee. Band the sides with hardwood. Joined to the side of the TS it'll be fine. If you already have a Jet TS what are the rails sized for? If you're going to put an extension table, you may want the exended rails with legs to handle the side extension. Choices, choices, choices...then plan, plan, plan.

[Bill Huber]

I agree with Glenn, its a personal thing.

For me I have a table, I am just not organized enough to have it on the saw for one thing and the other is I like the router table taller then the saw.

I find that I cut something and then do the router work on it and if I had it on the saw I would have to reset to do more cuts because I just screwed up the router work.

[Wayne Cannon]

I have a stand-alone, Norm-like cabinet-style router table plus one mounted in the extension table of my cabinet saw.

The router in the saw's extension table saves on floor space over a separate, dedicated, router table.

A dedicated fence designed for router use is preferable to a table-saw fence for many purposes, but you can piggy-back dust-collection, minimal-clearance inserts, and split fences onto a table-saw fence. If you add router-specific functionality to your table-saw fence, as opposed to a dedicated router fence, consider whether you are going to attach and remove/store it or leave it attached all the time, and consider the impact of the router's dust-collection hose attached to your table-saw fence.

I choose to use a dedicated router fence for the router in my table-saw's extension table for that reason, but then I have to deal with the two fences interfering with one another at times. I also chose to orient my router fence left-to-right parallel with my table saw's fence rails instead of front-to-back for the additional "table length" and less interference from the router's dust collection hose during table-saw operation.

Having said all that, I would recommend a separate router table from your table saw if you have the floor space to dedicate to it.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I agree with Bill's assessment. I prefer a separate router table if space is available.

My table is over 20 years old and the top has a 2" particle board core with laminate on both sides and edge banded with a hardwood. It's still nice and flat after all these years.

-Jeff :)

[Fred Hargis]

The version of Norm's table that I built is extremely heavy...I built in a mobile basse arrangement that work like a wheelbarrow (lift one side and roll the other) and mine is built out of plywood. I can only imagine that MDF would have added quite a bit more weight.

[Bill Arnold]

If you have the space, something like I built works great. I can use the tablesaw for most operations with the router fence in place. This combines outfeed and side support. Here's a photo of it.

[Brett CoughlanAus]

Hi Jay,

I went the Norm route - yes if I did it again I would laminate both sides of the MDF top but ply for the cabinet is the way to go.

Here are some pics and progress on one I built a few months ago:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=94146

[Rick Dennington]

Hi Jay:
About 4-5 days ago(maybe a week-I forgot) you sent me a PM. I think it was about the Norm router table, and how I set up the d.c on mine, or about the 2 1/2" locking casters I put on to be able to move the r.t. around the shop, and the heigth-- something-- I just don't remember. If you do, let me know, and post it on here.
OBTW- I wrote you back, but for some reason S.M wouldn't send it through. Said you were not a known member--crazy. I'm curious!!!

[Jay Yoder]

Everyone,
Thanks for the excellent responses. The quandry is that I have the space (in theory) by not much more than that. My concern about the table saw extension, was what was mentioned about the setup issues. If I went that route, I would design an Auxiliary fence that would quickly attach to my existing table saw fence. It is a tough decision...I do alot of panel cutting and wonder if that fact alone should push me to the stand alone table. A stand alone table would also have a larger table, not to mention would allow the table saw setups to remain untouched...choices choices

Rick,
I did send you a PM asking about pics of your router table, and specifically the dust collection mods you made to NYWS design. It is weird that it would not send it. I wonder if it is b/c I did not make my contribution...I also can't search the forum either...

[John Morrison60]

Jay

Like most everyone, I agree it is mainly a space decision.
I have a lift in a left side table extension.
The router fences that I originally had were both inconvenient and inaccurate to
repetitively set the fence distance from the bit.

Now I use my TS rip fence.
I really like using my TS fence as the movable fence for the router.
I made an add-on router fence with dust collection that clamps to my Biesemeyer.
With the digital guage on my ts fence, I am able to accurately move the router
fence, which is very important with most joinery routing.

I originally did it for the space, but now, I wouldn't have it any other way.

Good luck.
John

[Bill Arnold]

... I do alot of panel cutting and wonder if that fact alone should push me to the stand alone table. A stand alone table would also have a larger table, not to mention would allow the table saw setups to remain untouched...choices choices ...
I do a lot of panel cutting also. That's why I like the support and outfeed tables surrounding my tablesaw. My Incra fence base is attached to the table with 1/4-20 bolts into threaded inserts so I can remove it easily when I need to place a full sheet for cutting.

Another thing I've done before is to place a second set of inserts to the right of my tablesaw so I can use the Incra as a TS fence.

[Wayne Cannon]

For ideas, take a look at Sommerfeld's Router Table -- http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/instructions_and_plans/routertableinstuctions.pdf

This PDF includes instructions for mounting his aluminum router table as a teble saw extension, plus detailed designs for a base cabinet sized for his large table. I have it as a table saw extension, but like it so much that I want to move it to replace my stand-alone table-cabinet.

I love the fence -- all aspects, but especially the dovetailed zero-clearance inserts, the pivot style of fence adjustment, and the four-foot length. I like the large table (four feet wide), but wish it allowed an insert for more router and router-lift flexibility instead of bolting the router directly to the top. Sommerfeld's table top and fence are optimized for cabinet making (rails, stiles, panels, tongue & groove sides) at the expense of some other functions.

I'm using a 3.5 HP Triton router in it, which has a two-speed adjustment built-in. However, it's on the router itself, which means reaching under the table, and there is no calibration for known minor height changes like you get with almost all router lifts. I've been very happy with its dust collection -- almost nothing gets away!

[Wayne Cannon]

Jay,

There are some additional considerations you may want to debate in my earlier post at http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1215289#post1215289.

These are why I use and recommend the P-C 7518 for router table use. It's a behemoth to use outside of a table, and it's difficult to adjust the height without a router lift. However, its gaping base opening, never-break-a-sweat attitude, etc., make it hard to beat for a dedicated router table application.

As I mentioned, my other table uses the big Triton router, which I like; but it looks and feels like a toy by comparison with the 7518 (I only been using the Triton about a year -- not long enough to comment on its durability, etc.)