Any reason not to use AC ply for shop/laundry cabinets?

[Josh Reet]

A local BORG has some decent looking 3/4 AC for $23 a sheet or so. Pretty cheap in my book. I've got a couple shop and laundry room cabinets that I need to create in the near future. They will likely be painted white inside and out.

I know that BORG plywood isn't the greatest stuff. But can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't use it for this kind of thing? Cheaper by $10-12 than most any other 3/4 ply sheets (aside from CD/CDX) around here. Cheaper even than BORG 3/4 MDF (and much lighter). This isn't fine cabinet making, just functional storage that will be cheaper and last longer than the pressboard stuff.

[glenn bradley]

The voids can be bothersome if you end up with a long one along a dado or a pocket right where you need a screw. Visible voids can be filled, sanded and primed/sealed. After a few less than ideal experiences, I choose MDF if money or supply (there was a BB ply shortage around here awhile back) are a problem. It is more dimensionally reliable but has strength issues that should be addressed properly.

[Jamie Buxton]

Is it flat? Building cabinets is much easier if the sheet goods are flat.

[Josh Reet]

Is it flat? Building cabinets is much easier if the sheet goods are flat.

They seemed fairly flat. But to be honest, I have not done a close inspection yet.

[Joe Scharle]

Around here we've found everything from steel washers to soccer balls in the Chinese ply sold at the BORGs. I don't anyone who still uses it. Next, no amount of paint will prevent the football patches from telegraphing through. If you have resale plans in your future, I suggest that the laundry cabs look professional.

[Scott Kuykendall]

Do your self a favor and don't buy it. It is junk. It twists and warps after you cut it and the top layer is VERY thin and easy to sand through.
Scott

[Dan Friedrichs]

I think my HD has the same stuff at the same price. I bought a few sheets, because as you said, it was $10-15 cheaper than anything else, and it didn't look too bad.

First off, whoever decided that this qualified as AC grade should be shot. I didn't think putty was allowed on the A side...

Second, it warped, but not too bad. I would expect a quality domestic ply to stay much flatter.

Third, there are some voids, but not bad.

Fourth, the top ply was quite thick - didn't have to worry about sanding through it. It also was pretty rough, though, and needed a TON of sanding to get it smooth.

I'd buy the stuff again, but probably only for shop cabinets. For a laundry room, get some melamine or better grade ply to paint. The price difference isn't that big, and a professional look to them will be worth it.

[Josh Reet]

I'd buy the stuff again, but probably only for shop cabinets. For a laundry room, get some melamine or better grade ply to paint. The price difference isn't that big, and a professional look to them will be worth it.

Thanks everyone. I think I'll probably do as Dan suggested and just use it for the shop cabs.

Joe makes a good point also about resale. Though the cabinets in our house are made from pretty much just about everything already. That's what you get in a "starter" home.

[Alan Trout]

The AC I got from the Borg last year to make some shop cabinets was made in Canada. It looked great, was pretty flat, and when cut had zero voids. I cut the panels and dado's that evening was going to glue up the cabinet the next day. In less than 24 hours they looked like a pretzel, they had warped and twisted so bad. I almost did not have enough clamps. The cabinet turned out pretty decent but was quite a struggle.

Good Luck

Alan

[Wayne Sparkman]

I've learned my lesson about buying plys from HD, but am currently about to find out if their local competitor, the one that advertises having the "Lowe'sT" prices, is any better.

Short of $85-100 per sheet at the wood store, I guess there is no true 3/4 ply anymore. The HD oak ply measured a skimpy 11/16's, plus it had a good many voids and warped when cut. The other guys are selling what looks to be better quality, hasn't warped when cut, but is still not a true 3/4--more like 23/32's. I opted for birch ply at $37 per sheet instead of about $50/sheet for oak ply.

Bottom line--time is money. I'd say take a look at the birch ply and see if what your store is selling gives you a better surface to start with, for hopefully not much more $$$.

[Josh Reet]

Bottom line--time is money.

Always a valid point. Though money is money also. Many of us are looking for that balance I guess. Save a little cash because the wallet is thin without pissing ourselves off and making more work than necessary.

[John Morrison60]

Shop cabinets only, and preferably nothing.


I have found great 3/4 birch ply at an area lumberyard that costs $45 per sheet.
The ease of working and dimensional stability are worth the $10 premium.

Good luck
John

[Chris Gombola]

A local BORG has some decent looking 3/4 AC for $23 a sheet or so. Pretty cheap in my book. I've got a couple shop and laundry room cabinets that I need to create in the near future. They will likely be painted white inside and out.

I know that BORG plywood isn't the greatest stuff. But can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't use it for this kind of thing? Cheaper by $10-12 than most any other 3/4 ply sheets (aside from CD/CDX) around here. Cheaper even than BORG 3/4 MDF (and much lighter). This isn't fine cabinet making, just functional storage that will be cheaper and last longer than the pressboard stuff.

I would never use it for in the house but for shop grade, I have had good luck with some of the stuff from Lowes recently. It's a poplar ply and although it's cheap, it did a good job for my shop cabs. There were a few voids but not enough to be bothersome and it had very thick plys. Overall, worth it for shop cabinets, but the finished look and quality would never cut it for something inside, even laundry.

[Jason White]

The "C" side of the plywood won't paint well. Too many knot holes and other blemishes. Been there, done that.

Jason


A local BORG has some decent looking 3/4 AC for $23 a sheet or so. Pretty cheap in my book. I've got a couple shop and laundry room cabinets that I need to create in the near future. They will likely be painted white inside and out.

I know that BORG plywood isn't the greatest stuff. But can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't use it for this kind of thing? Cheaper by $10-12 than most any other 3/4 ply sheets (aside from CD/CDX) around here. Cheaper even than BORG 3/4 MDF (and much lighter). This isn't fine cabinet making, just functional storage that will be cheaper and last longer than the pressboard stuff.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

we have that stuff around here. It's from Chile. it's not that bad - some pieces have small areas of putty on the 'A' side, and Ii did encounter a void or two. but it sanded well, and looked pretty good overall. For $23, it's a good value IMO. Definitely a 'yes' for shop cabinets......definitely a 'maybe' for laundry. All depends how you finish the cut edges (edgebanding, etc).

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

> Any reason not to use AC ply for shop/laundry cabinets? (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1222745#post1222745)

Just the voids and the material's tendency to warp.
If you can get around the warping with a little extra bracing and the voids by just putting up with 'em, it's a fine material.

[Kevin Groenke]

Have you considered regular old particle board? Fill the edges (bondo works great) or edgeband and it paints up fine. It's flat, stable, lighter, cheaper and easier to screw together than mdf. Avoid direct moisture exposure and it should last as long as ply or mdf.

Melamine is 2X the money, but no painting, probably a bit more $ than MDF, about the same as the ply.

I've made utility cabinets w/chinese birch plywood. Cheap plywood seems like mixed chocolates, you don't know what you'e going to get until you cut into it to see it it stays flat and laminated.


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[Bruce Wrenn]

You can go over to Lowes, and buy the very same plywood for $36 a sheet. I like to use this ply for substrate under laminate. Smooth face, and almost no voids. By using ply instead of high density PB, I can pocket screw back splashes on. My local, well almost local HD, had it labeled as 3/4 BIRCH, cabinet grade plywood. I guess no one can read, as the tags were on each piece

[Jon Toebbe]

I recently bought some 1/2" AC fir ply from the BORG. Nice, thick plys. The A-side was purty enough for me. C-side wasn't too wretched. It was nice and flat, right up until I cut it. :mad: I think I really entertained the neighbors by sitting on top of my (under construction) tool chest, cussing, trying to squirt some glue in the joint, and then pressing things "flush" long enough to whack in a nail.

Somehow it all came together square, sanded without trouble, and is currently on sawhorses while the (first) coat of primer dries. Since I was planning on painting the outside anyway, I put the A side in. This is making the finishing a bit more work, but the end result should be pretty nice.