Shark Guard: riving knife saws, thin shark

[Matt Stiegler]

I have a Griz 690 cabinet saw which has a stock riving knife. Started thinking about picking up an overhead guard for it because I finally made some ZCIs and the DC went from acceptable to lousy.

Anyway, I'm looking at the shark guard (http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php), which he makes for my saw, here (http://www.leestyron.com/G0690.php), and I have 2 questions:

(1) For folks who put a shark guard on a riving knife saw, have you been happy with it?

(2) He has a version he calls the thin shark (http://www.leestyron.com/90thin.php), which he says is 2.5" wide (about 1/2" narrower than his standard guard [EDIT: this is incorrect, see Lee Styron's post below]. That's still a little wider than the 690's stock guard, which is 1.75 or 2.25 wide, depending on whether you include the bolts.) Anyone have feedback on thin shark vs. std. sharkguard?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Matt, I'd go with an overhead guard instead of the Shark guard because you can't use the Sharkguard for non through cuts.

I have an Excalibur on a General cabinet saw and am very pleased with it as I can use it when cutting rebates, dadoes and grooves, something the shark cannot do.

Regards, Rod.

[Matt Stiegler]

Hi Matt, I'd go with an overhead guard instead of the Shark guard because you can't use the Sharkguard for non through cuts.

I have an Excalibur on a General cabinet saw and am very pleased with it as I can use it when cutting rebates, dadoes and grooves, something the shark cannot do.



Not true, according to the maker, anyway:

"It goes a step further toward being a true riving knife in that it doesn't need to be removed for non-thrugh cuts. Doing a plunge cut is the only thing I know that you can't do with this riving knife installed using a 10" blade. You can't use a riving knife with a stacked dado blade."

[Jason Beam]

Not true, according to the maker, anyway:

"It goes a step further toward being a true riving knife in that it doesn't need to be removed for non-thrugh cuts. Doing a plunge cut is the only thing I know that you can't do with this riving knife installed using a 10" blade. You can't use a riving knife with a stacked dado blade."

Actually, Rod's correct.

Lee's talking about the riving knife in the paragraph you quoted, not the guard. It's pretty obvious that anything attached to the riving knife would have to be removed if the knife is buried in a non-through cut.

[Matt Stiegler]

Actually, Rod's correct.

Lee's talking about the riving knife in the paragraph you quoted, not the guard. It's pretty obvious that anything attached to the riving knife would have to be removed if the knife is buried in a non-through cut.

Oh, yeah. Obvious indeed. Thanks.

Still interested in answers to either of my questions.

[Matt Meiser]

Personally, I have an overarm guard (Biesemeyer) and I think I'd rather have a Shark. Why? I have my router mounted in my extension table and the overarm gets in the way of tall workpieces on the router table--for example using a vertical panel raiser or a using a flush trim bit to trim banding on the front edge of a plywood panel. Most of my own non-through cuts are made at the edge or close to the edge of panels--for example rabbets or dados for drawer bottoms. The guard isn't effective in those situations anyway because the fence gets in the way.

[David Peterson MN]

I am happy with my sharkguard. It does an excellent job of dust collection. That being said, I wish I had looked at the thin shark. I have been cutting alot of 1 1/4 strips lately and have had to remove the guard due to it hitting the fence. In its place, I insert another splitter that Lee sent (three total). Not that big of deal but I would prefer to have a guard in place and catch all that dust.

Either way you go, I guarantee you will be pleased!

[Rod Sheridan]

Personally, I have an overarm guard (Biesemeyer) and I think I'd rather have a Shark. Why? I have my router mounted in my extension table and the overarm gets in the way of tall workpieces on the router table--for example using a vertical panel raiser or a using a flush trim bit to trim banding on the front edge of a plywood panel. Most of my own non-through cuts are made at the edge or close to the edge of panels--for example rabbets or dados for drawer bottoms. The guard isn't effective in those situations anyway because the fence gets in the way.


Good points Matt.

The newer Excalibur pivots out of the way completley when not needed, so it wouldn't interfere with tall pieces on the router table.

I agree with your comment about rebates, a small homemade bridge guard on a sacrificial fence would be ideal for that situation.

I haven't had an issue with grooving drawer bottoms, the guard will offset over enough for the drawers I make.

Regards, Rod.

[glenn bradley]

My router is on the left of my saw and my overarm is on the right. Swings easily out of the way and returns just as easy. I find the ease of positioning makes me use it almost every time it is possible. I put a friction fit on the hose to hood joint so I can swing the hose over to act as the fence hose for my router table. I have been very happy with this arrangement although it is not for everybody.

[Mike Sandman]

I have a Shark Guard on my Jet cabinet saw (2008 version with riving knife). I switched to a ZCI and dust collection went from good to poor -- same track as you. With the Shark Guard DC efficiency is much better than it was before I installed the ZCI.

The design varies from saw brand to to saw brand, but mine came with a replacement for the riving knife that's actually a bit better than the original. There's a thread of mine with a review and a photo -

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.phpt=118390&highlight=shark+guard

The sole downside is that it takes 2 or 3 months to get the Shark Guard, but it was worth waiting for.

Mike

[Matt Stiegler]

Mike, that link didn't work for me but I think this is the one:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?referrerid=5960&t=118390

Thanks very much, I'd missed that one somehow. Good info.

[Mike Sandman]

(no text...)

[Robert Chapman]

Lee makes a fine product but it took him 23 weeks to make my Sharkguard. Fortunately it was at the end of my woodworking season when I ordered mine and I guess that he was having some production problems. Don't expect a Sharkguard in a few weeks unless things have changed.

[Matt Meiser]

I haven't had an issue with grooving drawer bottoms, the guard will offset over enough for the drawers I make.

With mine (Biesemeyer Guard, Biesemeyer fence) running 1/4" dados 1/4" from the edge, things are just too tight and the guard has the scars to prove it. :)

But that's a pretty safe operation anyway because I'm using push block and am able to stay a good distance from the blade. It would be pretty easy to fabricate a guard that hooks over the fence though.

[Matt Stiegler]

Doesn't sound like there's anyone out there who's used the thin shark (http://www.leestyron.com/90thin.php). Anyone who looked into it but decided against?

The only downside to it that I can see from the website is that you're locked into a 2.5 dust port, instead of having the option of a 4" port (the "mega mouth"). I haven't looked into it enough yet to figure out whether 4" or 2.5" is a better option for me. But the fact that the plastic is a little thinner on the thin shark seems to me like it wouldn't be an issue.

And the upside -- being able to rip narrower strips with the guard on -- seems like a meaningful advantage, as David said above.

[Lee Styron]

Thanks, Guys. :)
Robert, it didn't actually take me that long to make your shark, but it did to get to your spot on my list. Yours was the longest wait of anyone. Only very few have had such a long wait. My apologies to all those that have waited so long.
Things have changed though.
In June, I hired a new guy to work full time in my shop. He started working for me in July. He is working out fine.
I had been looking for someone for quite a while. I knew in Nov. last year that I could no longer keep up with orders even working 7 days a week.

It has taken us a while to get a routine down and we are still refining it.
Right now we are shipping orders from 7 to 9 weeks old. New orders though should be taken care of in about a month right now.
Production has better than doubled lately.

Thanks again and feel free to email any questions or concerns you might have.

[Lee Styron]

Matt, the width of the plastic guard on the thin model is just under 1 5/8" and on the regular is just under 2 1/8". The width on the 4" port model is 2 and 3/8" wide.

Both the smaller dust ports work equally well I think. If anything, the thinner would work a bit better, but likely not noticeably so. It has a little larger ID.

The 2.5" ports work fine even with a 4" pipe reduced to 2.5", but they work best when used with a shop vac.

The 4" has no trouble with any dust collector, but sometimes sucks too well and should be gated down or regulated down with a blast gate when you know you will have small offcuts.

The hose size really makes no difference in the operation of the guard itself. It lifts smoothly over stock regardless of size.
Some dust hose is better or more flexible than others too. That may make a difference in your hose manipulation, but not the way the guard actually operates.

I hope that helps.
Thanks.

[Matt Meiser]

Lee, say someone wanted to put it on their Christmas wish-list--what would the cutoff for orders be?

[Matt Stiegler]

Thanks for the info, Lee.

As Lee knows, I just ordered one but am still trying to decide exactly which model to get. Decisions, decisions.

[Jason White]

Drill a hole or two on either side of the slot in your ZCI. I bet the dust will get sucked up through the holes.


Jason


I have a Shark Guard on my Jet cabinet saw (2008 version with riving knife). I switched to a ZCI and dust collection went from good to poor -- same track as you. With the Shark Guard DC efficiency is much better than it was before I installed the ZCI.

The design varies from saw brand to to saw brand, but mine came with a replacement for the riving knife that's actually a bit better than the original. There's a thread of mine with a review and a photo -

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.phpt=118390&highlight=shark+guard

The sole downside is that it takes 2 or 3 months to get the Shark Guard, but it was worth waiting for.

Mike

[Noah Katz]

Hi Lee,

Maybe I'm blind, but I don't see any pricing info or how to order.

Re dealing with thin cuts, have you considered offsetting the guard sideways?

[Lee Styron]

Lee, say someone wanted to put it on their Christmas wish-list--what would the cutoff for orders be?



At this point, I don't have a clue. How good have you been this year? ;)

I don't expect lead time to stay longer than 3 weeks pretty soon. We are getting on top of things now. Orders have remained pretty constant for awhile now. If I wanted to make certain though, I would order soon for a later delivery date. Then you could be assured of a certain delivery time. Never a need to pay until it gets ready to ship.

[Lee Styron]

Noah, pricing and options are toward the bottom of each models order page. If you want, you can just email me and I'll send you some pertinent links.
Thanks.

[Rod Sheridan]

With mine (Biesemeyer Guard, Biesemeyer fence) running 1/4" dados 1/4" from the edge, things are just too tight and the guard has the scars to prove it. :)

But that's a pretty safe operation anyway because I'm using push block and am able to stay a good distance from the blade. It would be pretty easy to fabricate a guard that hooks over the fence though.

Matt, that's one way to do it however when I cut drawer bottom grooves on the tablesaw I cut them referenced from the top edge so there was lots of room.

I have to admit that now I cut them on the shaper, far better job, I can even climb cut if required.

Regards, Rod.

[Noah Katz]

Ah, I see, you have to select a particular TS first, thanks