multi axis goblet with captured ring

[Jason Clark2]

The President's Challenge for the October Arizona Woodturners Association meeting is "Goblets". I've done my share of goblets and captured rings and wanted to do something a bit different. I knew I wanted to play with multi axis turning so I sketched out a few ideas and this one leapt out at me as something different, a bit of a challenge, but also something that I thought I could pull off.

It was turned on two parallel axes, this was accomplished by removing two jaws from the chuck so I could slide it from side to side. The captured ring was turned on the off center axis and is captured not only on the stem but is also captured between the transition points of the two axes.

I still have a bit of work to do, the base isn't complete yet, I still have to figure out how to do that. Comments/critiques/suggestions?

Jason

[alex carey]

very cool, I always wondered how you sand something like this. Any insight on that?

[Jason Clark2]

One section at a time. Finish one before moving on to another, there's no going back.

[alex carey]

wait a second, you sand one part all the way to your highest paper, then off center the wood and sand that part all the way until its finished. I would think you might accidentally use the low sand paper on the already finished part and ruin it.

[Jason Clark2]

Exactly right. There's not really much danger of sanding an already finished part with a course grit, it's turning on an off center axis at that point. Pretty tough to keep the sandpaper in contact with the section turning off center, even if you tried.

[Richard Madison]

Neat piece Jason. Looks like you did an excellent job on the transition sections. I had trouble with those the one time I tried it. Which section did you turn first?

[Jason Clark2]

Richard, I always turn goblets from the tailstock to the headstock. The goblet bowl was turned as was the first portion of the stem and the upper half of the first transition. Then the piece was moved off center and the bottom half of the first transition, captured ring, middle portion of the stem, and top half of the second transition were turned in that order. Finally the piece was moved back so the bowl was back on center so the bottom half of the second transition, bottom of the stem, and top of the base could be turned.

Jason

[Bernie Weishapl]

Great looking piece Jason. Really well done.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Very interesting goblet Jason! Always cool to see where someone can take an idea and bring it to life! You should do quite well with your competition!

[Richard Madison]

Thanks Jason. I saved your message for ref. and think I will know how to do the transitions next time.

[Steve Mawson]

I am still having trouble understanding how this was done. No matter this is one great piece. I look forward to seeing it finished, it really is amazing.

[Jason Clark2]

Steve, Here's a series of pictures that may help you visualize what's happening on each step.

1st photo - showing 2 of the jaws removed so the blank can be repositioned side to side for the multiple axes.

2nd photo - 1st position of the jaws marked, center line of primary axis indicated by the dotted line. Inside and outside of the bowl portion and the first section of the stem is turned.

3rd photo - Upper half of the first transition is turned.

4th photo - blank repositioned for the second axis. Second dotted line indicates the center of the secondary axis.

5th photo, bottom of first transition is turned, 1st part of the off axis stem.

Continued below.

[Jason Clark2]

Continued.

Photo 6 - Captured ring and majority of off-axis stem is turned.

Photo 7 - Top half of the second transition is turned.

Photo 8 - Blank shifted back to the primary axis.

Photo 9 - Bottom half of the second transition and first part of the base of the stem are turned.

Photo 10 - Base is turned and parted off.

Jason

[Richard Madison]

Simple if you know how. Now who sells those turning blanks with the drawings on them?

Seriously, a skillful piece of work that would have been fairly easy to destroy at several points in the process. Did you mention the dimensions? Maybe I missed that.

[Jason Clark2]

I know where you can get one :)

Finished size is about 2 1/2 x 9.

Jason

[Christopher Fletcher]

Very Cool!

[mickey cassiba]

Now this is why I come here. I never would have imagined such a thing.
Dumb question time: Four jaw chuck?

[Mark Hix]

Not dumb, I was sitting here thinking the same thing? do you take two off and leave them off or was that just for the alignment marks?

[Walt Caza]

The captured ring was turned on the off center axis and is captured not only on the stem but is also captured between the transition points of the two axes.
Jason

Hi Jason,
You must be a swifty, 'cause that's nifty!
Nice work, too cool...
Ya, I guess you did want to do something different!?!
Mission accomplished.

The ring is captured between two axes? whew
Thanks for sharing the explanation pics, too.
tricky stuff, good luck with it,
Walt

[JerHall]

Not very profound, but when I have done similar off-center items I have just left an extra inch on the blank at the base and used a thin Sorby fluted parting tool to undercut the base. If the tool is sharp, and the wood compliant, you can even leave a clean decorative raised circle. Cut the nub off with a hand saw at 1/4 inch or so and then carefully sand off the lathe, leaving a neat button where the nub is. Might even be able to fit a bit of sharpened Formica in there for some burn marks, or blunt to burnish the edge. I also do this for simple boxes to avoid re-chucking. All this is not perfect, but often very acceptable. FWIW. Jerry

[Jason Clark2]

Mickey/Mark. It's a 4 jaw chuck with the #2 and #4 jaws removed. This allows for the side to side movement needed for the 2nd axis.

Jason

[Steve Mawson]

Thanks for the extra pictures. I believe I am starting to understand. So much that would be fun to do and so little time. I saw the finished dimension but how large a blank do you start with?

[Jason Clark2]

Steve, the blank was Mesquite and started out at 3 1/4" X 3 1/4" X 10".