What's a mint 1940s Unisaw worth?

[Scott Schwake]

Have been looking for an old one to restore, but I found one that doesn't need much, if any, work. Listed at $600, more than I wanted to spend, but probably can be justified since it's good to go. Just curious what the going rate is, as I haven't really been shopping for them all that long.

[Josiah Bartlett]

That's a reasonable price for one that works perfectly with a desirable motor, all the covers and handwheels, and a good fence. A lot of it depends on your area. 3 phase usually hurts the value by a couple hundred bucks. Missing covers are harder to find than the saws. I paid about that much for my early 70's vintage Uni with a 2hp 1ph motor, all the covers, table extensions, and a jetlock fence. I've since worn out the fence and replaced it with a Shopfox fence, and the motor bearings are starting to sound dry. I did have to true up my arbor a bit for runout, but that was a simple fix.

[Cary Falk]

Sounds reasonable to me. I paid $400 for a basket case with a 3phase motor and Jet lock fence.

[Matt Meiser]

That's about what I paid. Mine had been restored, but need some electrical work.

[Jerome Hanby]

That's close to what I have in mine after I bought a fiberglass goose egg motor cover reproduction. Think the other posters have it right. If it has all the covers and it's good to use right now, that isn't a legendary deal, but sounds like it's fair.

The dust door and motor covers are hard to come by, so knock money off your offer if it's missing either.

[Matt Meiser]

I had to add the goose egg to mine--fiberglass which works and looks great. Mine came with with a NIB Biesemeyer fence or a used Unifence, my choice.

[Ben Martin]

I paid $250 for mine, but had to shell out $180 for the fence, $150 for the VFD (but I also use it on my jointer).

Luckily the dust door was free. :D

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp325/martbj/utf-8BSU1HMDAwNTEtMjAwOTA5MjItMTgwN.jpg

[Scott Schwake]

Here's the saw: http://tinyurl.com/Unisaw
Only 1HP motor, is that a concern?

Thanks for your replies. Going to check it out later today.

Scott

[Matt Meiser]

That's the motor I have on mine. It will occasionally bog down on heavy rips. I'd say its comparable to my late 90's made-in-USA contractor saw with a 2HP motor. The rest of the saw is much better than the contractor saw though.

[Mike Henderson]

The 1HP would be a killer for me. That's just too under powered. Some people will try to tell you that old 1HP motors are more powerful than new 1HP motors but that's simply not true.

If you buy it, I'd plan to add a more powerful motor, at least 2HP and 3HP would be better.

Unless you're just into old Unisaws, I'd spend the money to get a more modern one - maybe even going to one with a riving knife for safety.

Mike

[Ben Martin]

Wow, was that thing ever used? Looks pristines. That caster set is awesome. Looks like a 1940's mobile base set.

[Don Jarvie]

600 is a great price. Complete Unisaws with the goose egg are going for 1000 - 1500 up in Mass.

You can always swap out the motor and still be well under the 1000 buck range.

[Tom Slupek]

Here's the saw: http://tinyurl.com/Unisaw
Only 1HP motor, is that a concern?

Thanks for your replies. Going to check it out later today.

Scott

For $600 you are buying the motor, switch and the Goose Egg cover. You are getting the saw and fence for free.

Goose egg Cover $200+
Switch $150-200
Motor $200-400

The Tennoning Jig that is listed in the craigslist add goes for $200+

Don't walk, RUN AND GET IT.

[Jerome Hanby]

I was about to post the same. You could part that bad boy out and be ahead of the $600.

[Randal Stevenson]

Some people will try to tell you that old 1HP motors are more powerful than new 1HP motors but that's simply not true.

Mike

I wouldn't word it like that, but I understand where Mike is coming from.
Now see where I come from. Manufacturers, changed the way they rated HP, for advertising. One RUNNING HP, is different from one PEAK HP. When that happened, you would see things with 1/2 hp motors, then someone started advertising 1HP PEAK, so consumers who didn't research, started buying what they perceived as the more powerful motor/item.
1 HP = 476 watts (if my memory serves me correctly), use that to compare.
You could probably sell that old motor pretty quickly to a restorer, on something like the OWWM forum. IF/WHEN you see the need to upgrade (are you going to be cutting 3" lumber all day, etc).

[Josiah Bartlett]

746 watts, actually, but shaft horsepower is going to be dependent on motor efficiency, and the old R/I motors are only about 75% efficient. RI motors generate a lot more starting torque than capacitor start motors, so they will take short term abuse and feel more powerful, but a higher HP rated motor can pump out the power without bogging down or tripping out.


I wouldn't word it like that, but I understand where Mike is coming from.
Now see where I come from. Manufacturers, changed the way they rated HP, for advertising. One RUNNING HP, is different from one PEAK HP. When that happened, you would see things with 1/2 hp motors, then someone started advertising 1HP PEAK, so consumers who didn't research, started buying what they perceived as the more powerful motor/item.
1 HP = 476 watts (if my memory serves me correctly), use that to compare.
You could probably sell that old motor pretty quickly to a restorer, on something like the OWWM forum. IF/WHEN you see the need to upgrade (are you going to be cutting 3" lumber all day, etc).

[Pete Bradley]

746 watts, actually, but shaft horsepower is going to be dependent on motor efficiency, and the old R/I motors are only about 75% efficient.

The HP rating is after the efficiency, so 1HP is 1HP, less efficient motors will draw more amps to get there. R/I motors draw less at startup than a modern cap motor though. R/I motors also have a very heavy wound rotor which helps to power through hard spots, etc. I haven't had any issues with bogging, but I don't put a lot of big stock though my TS either.

Pete

[Mike Henderson]

Pete's right. Motors are rated at shaft HP and not electrical power input power. RI motors also have greater starting torque than capacitor start motors but that advantage is somewhat wasted in a table saw because the saw starts up unloaded.

I think many RI motors use brushes and that's a maintenance issue. If someone is familiar with RI motors would you tell me if they do use brushes. I'm certainly not an RI motor expert.

Mike

[Jim Rimmer]

Where has that thing been the last 60 years? :confused: Was it ever used?

[David DeCristoforo]

The thing is, if you don't consider the power issue, that saw is a great buy at six hundred. The cast iron motor cover is a "hen's tooth"... hard to find and worth several hundred by itself. Also, according the the ad, the deal includes an original cast iron tennoning jig which is also a hen's tooth and worth another couple of hundred. I really don't see the reason to worry about the motor because unisaw motor bracketing has not changed in a century so you could easily drop in a bigger motor if you needed more power. For ninety percent of my work, that motor would be fine. The other ten percent would be an issue, no doubt. But still, for most "home" and many smaller commercial shops, that would be plenty of saw "as is".

[Ben Martin]

So did you get it? I expect it was gone within a couple minutes of posting if that included the goose egg and the tenoning jig. Heck, that made the saw itself $200....

[Joe Jensen]

Here's the saw: http://tinyurl.com/Unisaw
Only 1HP motor, is that a concern?

Thanks for your replies. Going to check it out later today.

Scott

The tenoning jig is very nice and very heavy. I have one. I don't know about now days, but I saw one sell on ebay for $170 a couple of years ago.

[Pete Bradley]

I really don't see the reason to worry about the motor because unisaw motor bracketing has not changed in a century so you could easily drop in a bigger motor if you needed more power.
The mount hasn't changed, but the cabinet opening has. Machines with bullet motors won't fit a cap start motor without modification (at least if you want to tilt).

To Josiah, the 1 HP is measured after efficiency, so 1 HP is 1 HP, just some motors pull more amps to get there. The R/I motors have a heavy wound rotor which gives a nice flywheel effect through knots and such.

[Scott Schwake]

Decided it was the saw for me after seeing it, I'll deal with the 1 HP later if it's an issue I guess. Makes my C-man seem like a toy, I can't believe how heavy this thing is!

It's currently wired for 110, any advantage to re-wire it for 220? My current saw runs 220, so I'm set up for it.

Thanks again to everyone who responded.

Scott

[David DeCristoforo]

Absolutely run it on 220. And that "jet lock" rip fence has got to go! But other than that, all I can say is nice score. You are lucky it did not get bought out from under you...

[Tom Slupek]

Decided it was the saw for me after seeing it, I'll deal with the 1 HP later if it's an issue I guess. Makes my C-man seem like a toy, I can't believe how heavy this thing is!

It's currently wired for 110, any advantage to re-wire it for 220? My current saw runs 220, so I'm set up for it.

Thanks again to everyone who responded.

Scott


Let me be the first one to congratulate you on the fine purchase and YOU SUCK. You really paid for the accessories on the table top and motor cover and got the saw thrown in for free.

If your shop is wired for 220 rewire the motor to run on 220. Less current draw.

If that saw was in my neck of the woods it would have not lasted that long. I would done anything to have it in my workshop/garage. I would be getting rid of the PM66 that I just finished making pretty again.

[David Wong]

Really a stunning piece of retro but totally usable equipment. Owning good machines like that one, knowing that it has a history, would put a smile on my face every time I use it.

[Pete Bradley]

Great score.

There's no reason to re wire for 220. If you do, be very careful as the leads will be very crispy. Minimize bending them as much as possible.

I find the original switch is really too far under the table. Definitely don't move it, but some people mount a starter on the front rail.

Pete

[george wilson]

I used old Unisaws since 1963,and they were old. They did all I needed. The tennoning attachment was selling in classifieds here a while ago for $250.00. That looks like a very nice saw. You MAY have to change the arbor bearings if they've had the grease dry out,and the old Delta fence moves when you lock it. But,hey,I used 2 over 45 years at work or in school shop where I taught. It will do good work. Look in Neanderthal FAQ at the art deco table and jewelry box I made for my my wife. MANY angles.All done on an old Unisaw.

[Bob Aquino]

WOW. You definately suck. With the motor cover and that tenoning jig. And in single phase. It doesnt get any better than that.

I would check the arbor bearings as someone else suggested. Other than that, I dont see where you would need to do much else.

[Jerome Hanby]

I'll second the WOW!. Congrats, with all you ended up with you may have gotten the best Unisaw deal I've ever seen!

[Ben Martin]

WOW, yes, you do SUCK!! Congrats!

I am still digging that caster set...