LN 7 or 8?

[Jeff Wright]

I am considering buying one or the other. Please give me your reasons for preferring one over the other if you were to buy ONE of them. Thanks in advance!

[Dan Sink]

I am considering buying one or the other. Please give me your reasons for preferring one over the other if you were to buy ONE of them. Thanks in advance!


$50. I'm buying the #7 and that's what it comes down to for me. I'm sure there are performance differences that other, wiser posters can speak to. But for me the truth is my skills won't capture any additional small performance capabilities offered by the #8 over the #7. And the #7, even with 20% off this week, is a financial reach for me.

[Gary Benson]

Jeff,
I have the #7 just because I can interchange the frog and blades with my 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 (or #6). I keep the 45 degree in the 7, a 50 degree in the 5 1/2 and a 55 degree in the 4 1/2 for most smoothing chores. I have used the number 8, and will admit, I feel more manly using it.
Gary

[Doug Shepard]

Hmmm. Despite having a nice LV BU Jointer, there have been a few times where I've pulled out my first jointer - an Anant #8 - just because I thought the extra weight and length would help with the task at hand. I'd splurge and get the #8.

[Joel Goodman]

I tried the LN #7 1/2 BU, the LN #7, and LN #8 at a hand tool event and preferred them in that order, with the #8 being the pick of the litter. The weight of the plane seems to help with flattening. I would love to hear what folks who have a #8 think. That being said I'm happy with my type 15 #7 Stanley and do not plan on buying a new jointer. If LN has one of these events near you try to attend -- they have the whole LN catalog of tools there to try out.

[Jon van der Linden]

The #7 is a little more versatile than the #8. If you're doing a lot of large work the size of large dining tables and front doors, then you might prefer the #8. If you're building furniture, then the #7 is a lot more handy. In conjunction with a shooting board, you can use the #7 down to a very small size.

[Doug Mason]

Of all my metal planes, the LN #7 is hands-down my overall favorite; and it has nothing to do with it's purpose as a jointer or that it is a LN, but rather it is the one metal plane that feels like an extension of my body when I'm using it. No other metal plane feels as balanced in my hands. I have never held the LN #8.

[Jim Koepke]

This is one of those areas where my preferences of buying old used Stanley/Bailey planes has paid off, there is room in the budget for both.

For doing narrow board edges, the #7 is usually preferred. For doing the faces of boards it is the #8.

Being heavier and wider gives the #8 advantages at times, but it can also be a bit more of a work out.

Gary makes a good point if you want to have that kind of versatility.

As far as a shooting plane is concerned, my preference is for a LA BU plane. Currently my #65-1/2 is being used for this. Maybe one of these days I will spring for a bigger user for this task.

jim

[RickT Harding]

While building my workbench I had to do a ton of flattening. Even though I have a hock setup for my #6/#7 I found myself loving my stanley #8 with the original blade/chipbreaker.

It's a little hard to really express, but for flattening panels I just found it was awesome. It's a little wider, longer, heavier and my #7 has been put to rest. Now if I go up from my #6 (my fav plane in my group) I just jump straight to the #8.

If I did it again I'd probably just skip the #7.

[Billy Chambless]

This is one of those areas where my preferences of buying old used Stanley/Bailey planes has paid off, there is room in the budget for both.

For doing narrow board edges, the #7 is usually preferred. For doing the faces of boards it is the #8.


Not to mention the advantages of having two jointers ready to go. Sometimes it's nice to be able to grab another plane instead of having to stop and hone.



Being heavier and wider gives the #8 advantages at times, but it can also be a bit more of a work out.



For most people in the SMC demographic, this is probably a Good Thing. ;)

[Wilbur Pan]

If we're specifically talking about the Lie-Nielsen #7 and #8, the #7 has the option of putting a 50º or 55º high angle frog on it for those boards with squirrely grain. The #8 doesn't have this option.

I've tried both, and of the two, I'd rather have the #7. The added weight of the #8 didn't do much for me except to make me tired sooner.

If I really need a wide plane, I'll grab a Japanese plane, which has a 70mm wide blade (2-3/4"), which is even wider than the #8. ;)

[Dominic Greco]

I tried the LN #7 1/2 BU, the LN #7, and LN #8 at a hand tool event and preferred them in that order, with the #8 being the pick of the litter. The weight of the plane seems to help with flattening. I would love to hear what folks who have a #8 think. That being said I'm happy with my type 15 #7 Stanley and do not plan on buying a new jointer. If LN has one of these events near you try to attend -- they have the whole LN catalog of tools there to try out.

Joel,
I'm of a similar mindset. for most jointing tasks I reach for a No7 (my favorite is an old Union No7 I restored from scratch) or a Bedrock 606. But when it comes to flattening, I prefer my 608C. I'm not sure if it's the mass, or the balance, or maybe a secret "Bedrock" ingredient, but it works so damn well!

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/BR608_after4.jpg

[Ken Werner]

Jeff, if at all possible, you should try both out. The extra width and weight of an 8 means more effort per push. All the reasons that a 7 is more versatile are true. How likely we are to bother swapping out a 45 degree frog for a 50 remains to be seen.

And finally my answer - you don't want to hear, to the query which plane should you get:

Both. [only kidding]

Ken

[Jeff Willard]

Hmmm. an Anant #8

:eek: I thought that I was the only one in possession of one of those.

[Doug Shepard]

:eek: I thought that I was the only one in possession of one of those.
Despite opinions to the contrary, mine actually works rather well.

[Sean Hughto]

If I could just have one it would definitely be the 7. The 8 is just too big. If you do a lot of very large thick work, it might suit you, or if you're a former NBA or NFL athelete who needs a tool sized to fit you. ;-)

[JohnMorgan of Lititz]

$50. I'm buying the #7 and that's what it comes down to for me. I'm sure there are performance differences that other, wiser posters can speak to. But for me the truth is my skills won't capture any additional small performance capabilities offered by the #8 over the #7. And the #7, even with 20% off this week, is a financial reach for me.


What is this "20% off" you speak of...this tempts me.

[Dan Sink]

What is this "20% off" you speak of...this tempts me.

See the "Deals and Discounts" board on this forum for a thread giving the details. Woodcraft.com is offering 20% off L-N tools this week. The code you need is in that thread. But the sale ends either tomorrow or Saturday.

[JohnMorgan of Lititz]

See the "Deals and Discounts" board on this forum for a thread giving the details. Woodcraft.com is offering 20% off L-N tools this week. The code you need is in that thread. But the sale ends either tomorrow or Saturday.


hollllly shnikeees...Hmm...panel saw time? Might be...

[Jim Koepke]

Not to mention the advantages of having two jointers ready to go. Sometimes it's nice to be able to grab another plane instead of having to stop and hone.


Because of things being what they are, in my shop, there are actually three jointers from which to choose. Then there are the #6s.

It just is not plane and simple.

jim

[Eddie Darby]

See the "Deals and Discounts" board on this forum for a thread giving the details. Woodcraft.com is offering 20% off L-N tools this week. The code you need is in that thread. But the sale ends either tomorrow or Saturday.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=120615

If you are doing large work, then go with the #8.
The weight works for you, and not against.
Just put a squibble of wax on the sole to reduce any friction.

[Matthew Dworman]

Hi Jeff,
I chose the no 8 and use it more often for these reasons:
Length - 24" vs 22" might not seem like a big deal, but when jointing edges, you will be flatter - especially on longer boards.
Width - The blade is 2 5/8 vs 2 3/8 - again, the 1/4" makes a big difference - especially if you are jointing the edges of 2 boards simultaneously. The blade is also much thicker - another improvement.
Mass - if you are planing with your body and not with just your arms, the added weight will make things work to your advantage and will not tire you more quickly. Remember high-school physics? An object in motion wants to stay in motion? The added mass of the plane means you don't have to push as hard once the plane is moving.

I wouldn't worry about not having a high angle frog for the jointer - I cant think of any time you would want to use it on this plane - tearout is best dealt with by a smoothing plane - not a jointer. You will be following up with a smoothing plane. You can still tighten the mouth on this plane and take minuscule shavings if you need to, but remember that a jointer is designed to get things flat - not necessarily smooth.
Good luck.
Matthew

[David Keller NC]

It just is not plane and simple.

Ha! That was pretty funny (maybe I'm easily amused). But it does concisely answer the question often posed to me - why do you have 20 bench planes?

Methinks that Jeff's already made his decision (the WC sale ended yesterday, I think)

[Jeff Wright]

Hi Jeff,
I chose the no 8 and use it more often for these reasons:
Length - 24" vs 22" might not seem like a big deal, but when jointing edges, you will be flatter - especially on longer boards.
Width - The blade is 2 5/8 vs 2 3/8 - again, the 1/4" makes a big difference - especially if you are jointing the edges of 2 boards simultaneously. The blade is also much thicker - another improvement.
Mass - if you are planing with your body and not with just your arms, the added weight will make things work to your advantage and will not tire you more quickly. Remember high-school physics? An object in motion wants to stay in motion? The added mass of the plane means you don't have to push as hard once the plane is moving. . . . Good luck. Matthew

So many great suggestions and viewpoints! Thanks to all for the many ideas.

I ordered the No. 7 last Thursday, called Woodcraft today (Sunday, the day AFTER the 20% off sale) and asked if it was too late to change to a No. 8. They said the 7 had already been shipped, but I was welcome to change to the No. 8 at the 20% off price and send the seven back with shipping paid by them (they would mail me a postpaid label separately). The No. 8 is on back order until the end of November. Hey . . . maybe I can procrastinate shipping the No. 7 back until I have the 8 in hand and compare the two. This is some great customer service by Woodcraft.

During the sale I also ordered a small router plane, a chisel plane, a scrub plane, and a set of five bench chisels with wrap. I suspect the Lie-Neilsen 20% off sale will keep their production line humming for at least a couple weeks.