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Cary Fleming
09-23-2009, 9:15 AM
I've got 8 knives that a customer brought me to engrave. They want initials and a small graphic on the blade. The blades are made from AUS6A stainless steel. I have not been able to get the blades to mark.

I'm using Cermark LMM-6000 spray on the blades and using a ULS VersaLaser 40w to do the marking. I thought I had finally gotten a mark with 100% power, 0.2% speed and 600 dpi, but when I rinsed the Cremark off the edged of the marking were blown-out. Then I realized that I was able to scrape the marking off with my thumbnail.

Has anyone successfully engraved AUS6A stainless, and if so, what settings did you use.

I'm getting very frustrated.

Anthony Scira
09-23-2009, 10:22 AM
I found when I had that problem I did not wipe down the surface with some denatured alcohol. Another possible problem can be low laser power, any problems vector cutting ?

Bruce Volden
09-23-2009, 10:27 AM
Also, when you apply the marking mixture, are you putting it down in a VERY THIN coat? You need to go thin, almost transparent thin! I tried to find some info on the type of stainless in your knives to see if there is a dramatic difference in the stainless steels (there is~way over my head) as to marking properties. They "should" all be markable :confused:

Bruce

Cary Fleming
09-23-2009, 11:43 AM
I found when I had that problem I did not wipe down the surface with some denatured alcohol. Another possible problem can be low laser power, any problems vector cutting ?

I'm vector cutting at the same speed and power that I've always used without any problems.



Also, when you apply the marking mixture, are you putting it down in a VERY THIN coat? You need to go thin, almost transparent thin! I tried to find some info on the type of stainless in your knives to see if there is a dramatic difference in the stainless steels (there is~way over my head) as to marking properties. They "should" all be markable :confused:

I'm using the pre-mixed spray Cermark. It lays down a thick layer compared to the descriptions I've read on here.

Dan Hintz
09-23-2009, 12:15 PM
I'm using the pre-mixed spray Cermark. It lays down a thick layer compared to the descriptions I've read on here.
Are you talking about the spraycan filled with Cermark? If not, what comes in the bottles needs to be thinned significantly... I thin to around 10:1.

I can't imagine they would put a clear coat on a knife, but you never know...

Anthony Scira
09-23-2009, 12:15 PM
Spray some in a little cup. Add some denatured alcohol to it and apply with a little disposable foam brush. Or if you have a little airbrush.

Sounds like its going on too thick.

Cary Fleming
09-23-2009, 12:26 PM
Are you talking about the spraycan filled with Cermark? If not, what comes in the bottles needs to be thinned significantly... I thin to around 10:1.

I can't imagine they would put a clear coat on a knife, but you never know...

Yes, I'm using the sparycan of Cermark.


Spray some in a little cup. Add some denatured alcohol to it and apply with a little disposable foam brush. Or if you have a little airbrush.

Sounds like its going on too thick.
Thanks for the idea. Hadn't thought of that. Doh!

kyle bonnell
09-23-2009, 4:18 PM
If there is a coating of some sort laser first without using thermark. Make sure that the knife is stuck down to the bed with something or held in place with a vise. Then after you laser it without thermark spray thermark on then laser again. The laser should burn off any coatings to leave bare metal exposed.

Dave Johnson29
09-23-2009, 5:02 PM
I'm using the pre-mixed spray Cermark. It lays down a thick layer compared to the descriptions I've read on here.

Hi Cary,

Move the can back further from the spray area. Use some Mylar film and make a cutout big enough for the marking. Lay it over the knife and spray from about 12" back. Even further back if it is still too thick.

When all the spraying is done, You can then use Denatured Alcohol to reclaim the stuff on the Mylar and store it in an airtight jar.

Bill Cunningham
09-24-2009, 10:19 PM
Even when clearing the nozzle after coating, when holding the can upside down, spray it into a glass container, and let it collect with each use. Once you have a good coating in the glass, you can scrape it down the sides, into a bunch at the bottom, then add alcohol as you mix a little bit at a time to get the right consistency. A small foam bush, or even a artists paint brush works well for coating small marking areas. Lighters/pens/Italian charms etc.. This saves pulling out the can and wasting more than you even need on some jobs..

Steve Rozwood
09-28-2009, 2:54 PM
Hello Cary,

I am a representative of the CerMark laser marking materials and I thought that may be able to offer a few other suggestions. There are a number of different kinds of stainless steel, I havenít heard of AUS6A, but we tested many different varieties and didnít have any problems getting a mark. One suggestion would be to change your DPI to 1000, this seems to help on harder to mark metals like copper or brass. Another suggestion would be to check your laser lens. Sometimes if your marking materials that cause a lot of vapors or smoke, that smoke may cause your lens to get permanently etched, resulting in loss of power and poor marks. If you think that this may be a repeat customer and you will be doing a large number of these knives, you can always send us a sample knife and we will try to get a mark for you. If you have any questions or if you want to send those parts then you can contact me directly at 724-223-5990.

Thanks,
Steve