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View Full Version : old dovetail saw brands??



jim hedgpeth
09-22-2009, 10:37 PM
I am going to try my hand at sharpening saws soon, and am considering buying a vintage dovetail saw. I was wondering if any common brand tends to be better than another. One in particular I am looking at has a medallion that says "WARRANTED SUPERIOR" w/ no other markings.

Any recommendations??

Thanks,
Jim

Bill Houghton
09-22-2009, 10:58 PM
Disston is the big name in American saws. Atkins is also good - and, as with Stanley vs. everyone else in planes, you might get a good deal on an Atkins saw.

Always - always - sight along the teeth to confirm that the saw is straight. A handsaw can live with a little curve, but backed saws are less comfortable with anything but straightness.

Pat Zabrocki
09-23-2009, 12:15 AM
Disston is the big name in American saws. Atkins is also good - .

what Bill said and Simonds is good too.

cheers
Pat

Phillip Pattee
09-23-2009, 12:22 AM
Richardson Brothers is good too. Ditto on Disston, Atkins, Simonds. Warranted Superior is often one of the big makers second line of saws -- where the quality control wasn't enough for them to put their name on it. It still might be a great saw though; probably better than a modern saw from the borg.

Martin Cash
09-23-2009, 1:03 AM
Not sure if you see them over there, but most of the British made backsaws are excellent and can be filed or re-filed rip for dovetails.
Some to consider are:
W Tyzack
Spear and Jackson
Ibbotson Bros
John Kenyon and Co
William Marples and Sons
Slack Sellars and Co
I Sorby
Robert Sorby
Taylor Bros
and many more.
Ray Gardiner (Australia) has an excellent website here:
http://www.backsaw.net/
He is also an absolute treasure trove of information on backsaws and saws generally.
Cheers
MC

Richard Niemiec
09-23-2009, 8:09 AM
Jim: I was where you were 6 months ago, and while I'm not skilled enough to say I'm a saw sharpener, I am building the experience. My insight is go out and buy the least expensive, no-name saw you can find at a flea market, etc., that is not rusted beyond hope, and practice on that. My awakening came from a rust bucket afterthought 7 inch blade, 14 pt backsaw from a yard sale; old, but no markings at all with an unremarkable handle. It was my first attempt at crosscut sharpening (as it was filed xcut) and after I took an inordinate amount of time with it, I swear it cuts as smooth as my LNs xcut (it helps to have a "reference" saw so you know what "real" is). Its the quality of the steel, and while makers like Disston and Atkins, and most of the English makers, sort of assure you what you are getting, even Craftsman saws from the 50s are likely of good steel (and likely made by Disston or Atkins) and can be had for $5 or less. Good practice, and you just might get a keeper. Once I know what I am doing filing saws, then I'll start sharpening my Disston #4s and my Tyzacks.

Good luck. RN

David Keller NC
09-23-2009, 3:56 PM
I am going to try my hand at sharpening saws soon, and am considering buying a vintage dovetail saw. I was wondering if any common brand tends to be better than another. One in particular I am looking at has a medallion that says "WARRANTED SUPERIOR" w/ no other markings.

Any recommendations??

Thanks,
Jim


Warren and Ted Superior were sawmakers that worked at Disston & Sons. :D

I've never actually had an antique saw that was crap, at least as far as the steel is concerned, though my experience leads me to believe that hardness consistency was steadily improving in the first half of the 20th century while tote aesthetics, comfort and material choice were steadily declining.

What that allows one to do is buy a Disston, Atkins, Simmonds, Keen Kutter, Marples, etc... from the 1930s, 40's and 50's in superb shape for a song, then take some carving tools and rasps to the handle to correct the inadequate handle shaping.

jim hedgpeth
09-23-2009, 5:44 PM
So most any pre WW2 era saw will likely be fine. I never thought much about the handle. Just figured if I didn't like it I'd replace it, since I will already have a blade and the right split nuts for it. Could maybe save a little more $ that way too, if I see a real good blade on a broken/damaged handle.

Thanks for the help guys.
Jim