Max drawer size with 1/4" bottoms

[Josh Satterlee]

Hey there Creekers. I need to build a utility chest of drawers in a single weekend. I already have some 1/4" melamine (MDF) that I wanted to use for the drawer bottoms. How big can I make the drawers? (They will be holding clothing). I was going to make hardwood drawer cases and install the bottoms using a 1/4 x 1/4" groove.

Any tips would be appreciated! Creek on!

[Chris Friesen]

How sturdy do you want it to be? Ikea chests of drawers often use 1/8" hardboard bottoms but they sag visibly when they get larger.

It would probably be better to decide on the size of the chest of drawers and then determine if your melamine will be suitable. One way to add stiffness is to put in a center muntin going from the front to the back. This supports the center of the panel which is where it's most likely to sag.

Also, if you glue the bottom to the sides it will be be stronger than if it just sits in the grooves.

[John Keeton]

I have used 1/4" plywood for drawers 18" deep, 36" wide in a dresser holding clothing with no sagging. Never used mdf, but I imagine it is as stiff as the ply.

As Chris has noted, I have also used a center muntin where the load was a concern. And, that is probably the safest route to take. Easy to do, and no regrets!

[Joe Scharle]

MDF will sag under it's own weight and there's no guarantee that only clothes will be placed in the drawers. I use 1/4" ply a lot and on wide (>24") I use a center muntin/support rail like this to put the load on the web frame on 3 points.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/632/Child_s_Dresser_005.jpg

[Gene Howe]

I've always assumed that Melamine was only applied to "Tempered Hardboard".
I've used that successfully in my shop drawers as wide as 16" by 24" long. I don't think 1/4" Melamine coated MDF alone, would suffice. I think I'd use a good Birch 1/4" ply. Even then as others suggest, a muntin would be wise.

[Chris Friesen]

I've always assumed that Melamine was only applied to "Tempered Hardboard".

Actually, I think melamine is most commonly applied to particleboard.

[Josh Satterlee]

I Already have the 1/4" MDF melamine (and I'm sure its not tempered hardboard), so won't be switching to 1/4" ply. but I will add a center muntin. I know, I know, I am supposed to argue more about my method and not take your suggestions, but I'm going to cave early and listen to those smarter than me. Totally against Creek protocol. Hahaha.

Thanks again!

[Doug Shepard]

There's a tool that will tell you how much sag to expect from different materials, thicknesses, and sizes. I dont have a link handy but a Google search for "Sagulator" should turn it up quickly.

[Chris Friesen]

The sagulator is useful, but it's aimed mostly at shelves or similar structures.

It isn't applicable to something like a drawer bottom that is supported on all four sides. Even less applicable if you glue in all four edges of the bottom into grooves in the drawer sides.

[John Nesmith]

MDF will sag under it's own weight and there's no guarantee that only clothes will be placed in the drawers. I use 1/4" ply a lot and on wide (>24") I use a center muntin/support rail like this to put the load on the web frame on 3 points.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/632/Child_s_Dresser_005.jpg


Joe:

How do you attach the muntins?

[Steve Clardy]

I've been using the MDF melamine 1/4 in drawers for a year now.

Max drawer size is around 18x22" that I have built using the MDF melamine.

[Joe Scharle]

Joe:

How do you attach the muntins?


John Nesmith
I use mortise & tenons on both ends. I make sure the muntins are flush with the drawer side, and are in contact with the center bar of the web frame when a little weight is in the drawer.

[John Nesmith]

Thanks Joe.