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Brett DeFalco
09-21-2009, 8:20 PM
It's a plywood and epoxy hull, based on the hunting and fishing skiffs
used in the sawgrass of the Everglades back in the 1950's and '60's.
But those skiffs weren't powered, they were towed or poled.
They also didn't come with stowage for 6 flyrods, nor a vented pocket tunnel.
I documented the build, including my mistakes, so out of town family members
could follow the construction. Saved on sending and cc'ing email replies.
Click on the small images in the albums and you can view larger images.
Explanations in the captions under the pics. She's a skinny water skiff for use
in the inshore backwaters of NE Florida. An amateur design and build.
Floats in 3-1/2 inches with two aboard, runs in 12 inches.
15'-8" long, 50" wide at the gunnel, 42" wide at the chine, 16" from bottom to shear, 235 lb hull

link to build albums: http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq208/bdefalco/Salt-Run/12-bow-lighthouse.jpg

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq208/bdefalco/Salt-Run/14-slipper-lighthouse.jpg

Mac McQuinn
09-21-2009, 8:58 PM
Brett,
Very nice boat. This type of boat would be very useful in my neck of the woods with miles of twisted river tributaries, plenty of skinny water and good fishing. Plus lots of old Indian hunting grounds & village remains to explore and dig around in for artifacts. What is the construction type? Stitch & glue or Frame on ply? HP requirements?

Thanks,

Mac



It's a plywood and epoxy hull, based on the hunting and fishing skiffs
used in the sawgrass of the Everglades back in the 1950's and '60's.
But those skiffs weren't powered, they were towed or poled.
They also didn't come with stowage for 6 flyrods, nor a vented pocket tunnel.
I documented the build, including my mistakes, so out of town family members
could follow the construction. Saved on sending and cc'ing email replies.
Click on the small images in the albums and you can view larger images.
Explanations in the captions under the pics. She's a skinny water skiff for use
in the inshore backwaters of NE Florida. An amateur design and build.
Floats in 3-1/2 inches with two aboard, runs in 12 inches.
15'-8" long, 50" wide at the gunnel, 42" wide at the chine, 16" from bottom to shear, 235 lb hull

link to build albums: http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq208/bdefalco/Salt-Run/12-bow-lighthouse.jpg

http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq208/bdefalco/Salt-Run/14-slipper-lighthouse.jpg

Brett DeFalco
09-21-2009, 9:22 PM
Thanks Mac,

She was built using exterior bracing, drywall screws and clamps.
I didn't care for the problems inherent with stitch and glue construction.
With the braces holding the panels in place, filleting was a continuous
process along all the interior seams. No drilling and tie-ing to deal with.
No fairing needed either as the hull was clean and straight to begin with.
I'm using a 5 hp 4 stroke Nissan to push her, but could use up to 15 hp.


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_O_KARt4jNJU/SKh10FDDJLI/AAAAAAAABLc/bL-YFUXYfWk/s640/144-rebrace-starboard.jpg

Clara Koss
09-22-2009, 12:37 PM
when can i have a ride?????

Brett DeFalco
09-22-2009, 3:23 PM
There's nothing impressive about the ride Clara, it's a flat bottom hull.
If you've ever ridden in an aluminum jon boat, that's pretty much how this one runs.
The advantage of a wood hull is that it's naturally bouyant, and that wood absorbs high frequency sounds.
That translates to being able to get closer to fish and wildlife when on the water.
Very important to a skinny water fisherman like myself.
Also, wood just looks better...;)

Mac McQuinn
09-22-2009, 8:00 PM
I read your impressive construction log. Your building platform makes a lot of sense. I use to build Duck boat designs with a friend and the wire and goop process was a bit unnerving. You spent more time measuring, twisting and leveling than actual wood cutting. After using the boat for different tasks, are there any changes you would make? Anything you would do different with the overall design if building another?

Mac

Brett DeFalco
09-22-2009, 9:17 PM
Mac, that construction base was nothing more than what any cabinet man uses.
A squared, level, solid surface that can be used as a reference for all measurements.
What I'd change? Use a better finish veneer plywood. I was planning on painting
the entire hull in my original design. But that cheap exterior 1/4 inch luan turned out
a lot more attractive than I'd previously thought. So much so, that my daughter
told me that painting it would be wrong. She and others seem to be fascinated by
the reference lines and sand throughs in the wood, that are visible through the epoxy finish.
The hull does exactly what I designed her for. An inexpensive hull that floats shallow,
uses less than a quart of fuel per trip, is easy to launch or retrieve, and gets me safely
and comfortably into the narrow, shallow oyster creeks and marshes of NE Florida.
All while carrying all the fishing tackle and gear needed during the trip.
And most importantly, it didn't cost me 25 grand like a new shoal draft custom fiberglass skiff.

Mac McQuinn
09-22-2009, 11:27 PM
Brett,

Thanks for the info and sharing your hard work.

Mac

Brett DeFalco
09-23-2009, 9:32 AM
Just to show what the original hulls looked like,
here's a link to one of the old time 'Gladesman, Totch Brown.
His story and a couple of the images show the old wood skiff being poled and towed.

http://www.florida-everglades.com/totch/totch.htm

same photos, but all on same page

http://www.airboateverglades.com/totch.htm

Bob Easton
09-27-2009, 6:49 PM
Nice boat Brett. It's always good to see a project completed and meeting its goals.


... So much so, that my daughter
told me that painting it would be wrong. She and others seem to be fascinated by the reference lines and sand throughs in the wood, that are visible through the epoxy finish. ...

There is one good reason for paint. Epoxy doesn't have a lot of UV protection and will deteriorate rather quickly without paint or varnish to offer UV protection. Yet, maybe longevity isn't a concern. She's inexpensive enough to replace.

Nice job. ENJOY the fishing!

Brett DeFalco
09-27-2009, 7:16 PM
Thanks Bob,
The hull is garage kept, and my time on the water is from just before sunrise to about 10 am. I'm the one who really has to watch my UV exposure.
So exposure to UV rays is kept to a minimum. After finishing construction of the hull and gloss coating with epoxy,
I found this weathering test done by another builder. http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxtest.htm
I figure if that's all the deterioration that shows up after a year, with a garage kept hull and early morning trips, it's not worth the worry.
I won't get a years exposure over 10 years of ownership. Plus the topsides where most of the UV damage would occur are painted.
But, only time will tell if I've made the correct decision. That, and I usually get bored and start thinking about "Next" after 3 years. ;)

Josh Reet
09-27-2009, 9:49 PM
If you don't mind, could you reveal how much you ended up spending on the project?

I've been thinking about finding a budget motor skiff of some sort for my father in law and me to build at some point.

Brett DeFalco
09-27-2009, 10:02 PM
No problem Josh, I spent $2000 US, more or less, on the hull
That includes the construction base, a small cheap bandsaw,
electric hand planer, epoxy, fillers, fiberglass, assorted lumber,
pvc, hatches, cleats, rubrail, rollers, brushes, sandpaper and paint.
There's a materials list and receipts stashed somewhere in the garage.