What chain saw to buy?

[Stephen Saar]

I'm looking at buying a nicer chain saw to cut down trees that have already been felled into sizes I can more easily transport, and for cutting things at my house in to more manageable sizes for turning, or other wood products. I started turning recently and I'm starting to find different places for free wood, but I figured I'd ask here to see what peoples opinions were on decent chain saws. What I really want is something that will cut pretty quickly. My dad bought some second hand husqvarnas of the pro series and they seem pretty decent, but I'm not really familiar with chain saw brands so I don't know who else makes chain saws. I don't have a set budget since I'm not sure what a decent chain saw would cost, but I'm starting out at looking at chain saws for less than $300. Also are chain saws like most saws where the blade they give you sucks, and you pretty much need to go buy a new one?

Thanks.

-Stephen

[David L Roberts]

Lot of unanswered questions...typical diameter of the trees being foremost. You need an engine (displacement) and bar length to handle the type of work you're going to be doing. Another factor is the frequency of use. If this is once-a-year gathering of project pieces, you might be smarter to rent a saw. (if you do, it will probably be a Husky or a Stihl.) If you're thinking is in the $300 range, you're already committed to buying a new tool. And, in that range, you can find a good Husquevarna or Stihl, both regarded as among the best. Echo also is well regarded. Echo and Husky have BORG versions and "pro"; Stihl, not available at the BORGS, is top-end, only. You do get what you pay for. In that price range, you'll get adequate power, good vibration control, easy, dependable starting, easy chain tensioning, etc., etc. Go to an outdoor power equipment dealer and tell them what you want to do...they'll give yo some good advice about size, power, etc. Then you can decide whether you want high-end or make a trip to the BORG.

[Stephen Saar]

I'm not really certain on the size, but I would imagine that most of the trees I would be dealing with would be less than 24" with the occasional tree that's between 24-36 inches. Anything bigger than that and I'll just take the branches.

-Stephen

[jim hedgpeth]

90 * of saws now days come with low kick back chains, bars, and other guards and such. That does not necessarily mean they wont cut well as is. Just like any other cutting tool, just make sure its sharp and tuned properly.

Husky makes some of the best "cheap"er saws IMHO. Stihl is supposed to be the TOP brand. I have an old Homelite that has stomped several Stihls in my area. Key word in that sentence being "old". Just goes to show that proper maintenance and tuning go a long way, same as any tool.

You didn't say what size saw you are looking for? Just a little 16" or something a bit bigger?

If I was to buy a new saw right now I'd probably get a Husky "ranch king" I think is what they call their good "budget" model. If I remember right Rural King here has them for abuot $300, w/ 24" bar. Thats plenty big for most stuff.

Jim

PS, Chainsaws are another of my hobbies. If you have other ?? feel free to ask.

[Jim Hill]

Stephen,

I bought a Stihl MS250 a couple years ago to trim trees, and cut them down on my property. I went to the local Stihl dealer and spent quite a bit of time looking at the saws, explaining what I needed and listening to the dealer suggestions. I ultimately bought the saw just the way the dealer recommended. My saw was fitted with an 18 inch bar and a standard Stihl safety chain. The stock chain is good for a homeowner, and I bought a backup chain to use when the original chain is getting sharpened. If the saw died today, I would have no complaints on the money I spent for the saw; it has saved me much more. I have used it more than I could have imagined. I've actually been thinking about stepping up to a larger saw. Whatever you buy, don't forget the safety equipment you should use with a chain saw, i.e., chaps, head and face protection, hearing protection, and good work boots-mine are steel-toed. Oh, and by the way, I found out that the dealers sometimes will work with you on the price. I bought my saw as cheaply as I could have bought a borg Huskie. Dealer knowledge, as well as having a service dept readily available if needed, along with professional instruction seemed to provide the best value to me.

Jim

[Larry Frank]

I have a Stihl and have been very pleased. I have had it for a quite a few years and use it occassionally and it starts easily every time. Two years ago, I gave my daughter the Stihl MS250 for Christmas. She had a lot of trees to trim and some to cut down. She has had very good luck and the easy2start system has been good for her.

[jim hedgpeth]

Jim Hill (too many Jims around here:rolleyes:) is right about service, Stihl dealers are everywhere. That can be important if you are not familiar with working on chainsaws.

Here are my keepers that I don't trade off. Isn't the little one cute:D.
Homelite C71 (stock;)) w/32" bar and little 16" homelite xl "limb saw".
Best of both worlds.

[John Keeton]

You are going to need a good size chainsaw to support a 36"+ bar. I doubt you could get a Stihl the appropriate size within your budget, although in my opinion Stihl is the saw to buy. My first one lasted 15 years, and would have lasted longer if I had not loaned it out!! I now have the Stihl Farm Boss and love it.

The MS441 is a 36" bar, I believe, and retails for over $800. You could do with less of a bar, but it is dangerous, and your saw won't last long.

[Dan Ewalt]

I'd recommend a Stihl MS290 (Farm Boss) with a 20" bar. It's a nice sized saw that will handle a 20" bar no problem and doesn't weigh a ton. It's pretty close to your price range, just a little over. I do a lot of cutting, two of my friends have sawmills and we seem to be always getting logs somewhere. The Stihl has not missed a beat and I have done everything from limbing to cutting a couple of 30" poplars down.

I'll bet it will outlast you or me.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS290.html

Dan

[Matt Meiser]

I have a Stihl. I only need mine for property maintenance. I used to borrow my dad's 70's Craftsman which was a good saw but worn out and I had to spend more time fiddling than cutting. I hated to spend the money as rarely as I use it but after reading about cheap saws only lasting a few uses I didn't want to waste money either. My local Stihl dealer got me a deal on a slightly used saw. They sold it new to someone who decided they needed a bigger saw. They took it back in partial trade and resold it to me with a warranty through them. I believe I saved about 25%.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

Chainsaws are like table saws. If you don't have a reasonably sharp chain on your chainsaw or a sharp blade on your table saw neither will work as well as it could/should, regardless the brand.

I think the primary issue with chainsaws is starting them and keeping them running. I had two cheapies that started OK when cold but if they died while running they refused to start until the engine got cold again. No such problems with my Stihl. But if you are going to have just occasional use a cheaper one may suffice.

[Mike Cruz]

Sorry, didn't have time to read everyone's posts before responding to this, so if it is dittoing anyone else, sorry.

Stihl, Stihl, Stihl. CAN'T go wrong with them. I bought a barely used Farm Boss with a 20" chain this spring for $250 off CL. Great buy, runs great. Even at full price, WELL worth the $369 new.

I cut about 4 cords of wood a year for fire wood. That is why I got this saw.

That said, if all you are using this saw for is to cut up wood for turning and cutting up for taking to the mill, I would be perfectly comfortable recommending the saw that I used before I just purchased this Stihl. It was a Poulan with a 20" bar. It lasted 8 years for me...with minimal servicing.

The major difference between the two saws is NOT speed in the cut. (My brother and I cut side by side...me with my Poulan and he with his Stihl Farm Boss. We cut at almost identical speeds. The TRUE difference is..................comfort. There is WAY more vibration and WAY more fatigue with the Poulan.

As for chains, yes there is a difference. A Stihl chain will hold its edge longer and resharpen better than a cheap chain. (Better steel in the Stihl is all I can attribute it to.) IF you get a saw other than Stihl, see if a Stihl chain will fit...not as easy as it sounds...be sure to test it BEFORE you actually need it.

Hope that helps. If you have any other questions or need clarification, feel free to PM me.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I just got a Stihl Farm Boss too. It's no doubt the best saw I have owned. (An OLD homelite 16" would be second.) Cut a couple trees, and a truckload of monkey pod into lathe sized pieces. I'd say the trunk was 30" across, so it will fill your needs. It will also stretch your budget of 300 bucks a tad too. You can keep an eye out for used ones. BUT, if you don't know a lot about chainsaws, I'd stay away from used saws, unless you know and trust the seller.

[Mike Cruz]

Agreed about the used chainsaw thing. Beware of...oh well, heck, if you are willing to spend $300, put out the extra $70 and get the Farm Boss new. It will do more than what you are asking of it. It you NEED to spend less, get the Poulan for under $200 (or around that).

[Harlan Coverdale]

Stihl and the non-Borg Husky models are both well respected brands among the professional tree guys. Whichever brand you choose, I'd suggest finding a local dealer who you like, then going with the brand he can service the best.

[william scott]

Another vote for the Stihl Farm Boss. If you go to their site, there is a video that shows the saw cutting and throwing up so much sawdust that it just about hides the saw. The video isn't lying, as mine does that quite often. I cut Pinyon Pine that just kills most other saws and the Stihl just keeps on cutting. Get a 20" bar and you can handle most stuff that you would use for firewood.

[Bob Smalser]

....less than 24" with the occasional tree that's between 24-36 inches.



Husky or Stihl. Echo is known for lightweight arborist saws which it does best.

Husky's are slightly lighter than Stihl's for the same power and are favored by fallers, while the heavier and slightly more rugged Stihls by buckers and sawyers that don't have to carry the saw as far in the woods.

You can live with a middlin size Stihl or Husky with a 20" bar.

My bucking saw.....an older large Stihl 046 with a 32" bar and hop-up kit. The older, all-steel 9:1 Homelite saw now runs a winch.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3223936/39615107.jpg

A faller colleague with a big Husky.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/4110272/50978394.jpg

More Husky's.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/4110272/50978769.jpg

My one-handed arborist Echo with 12" bar and the brake removed. Don't try this at home.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3075040/237973505.jpg

[Scott T Smith]

There are lots of good brands. Most pro's use either Stihl, Husky, or Dolmar.

Echo also makes a good consumer saw.

One of the best things to do is to find out which brand has the best local dealer support, and then buy that brand of saw. Forget the BORG's, instead try to find a good chainsaw or small equipment shop that services what they sell, and seek their advice and buy from them. You might pay a few bucks more, but it will come back to you in the long run with their service and support.

Don't "over-bar" your saw - it will cut slower, the chains cost more, and you'll end up with an aching back from not only lugging the extra weight, but also having to lift up slighly on the saw to keep from bogging down the bar. A 16" - 20" bar is usually ideal for most non-professional work.

One key to saw longevity - don't use fuel/oil mix that is older than 30 days, as the oil tends to break down and lose it's lubricating qualities (synthetic 2-cycle oil mixes last longer though).

One tip about the Stihl saws - those with the "white" handle are commercial models; those with an "orange" handle are consumer models.

Another tip for any saw - it will cut best if you have a sharp chain and keep it that way, and it is much quicker to sharpen if it is not excessively dull.

[Christopher Stahl]

I just purchased a Husky 346XP w/18" bar about two months ago. I think it's a fantastic saw for a fantastic price. I basically use it for cutting up trees for blanks. I feel the 18" bar seems to be a pretty good size for what I'm doing. It's definitely a beast the cuts wood like butter.

[william scott]

LOL! A Husky saw with a Stihl bar guard! The Husky Rancher is a good saw and the equivelent of the Stihl Farm boss.

Not to hijack the thread, but do you have any more pictures of that chainsaw running a winch? I've thought of running a bumper mounted winch to skid logs up a hillside. I have an old Homelite 650 that could do the job, but what are you mounting the saw on?

[George Sanders]

Here's another vote for the Stihl farm boss. I've had mine for about four years now and it never balks at cutting osage orange, as long as the chain is sharp.

[Dave Wagner]

I have the Stihl 190? (one step down from the farm boss). I think it's 16" bar, great for smaller trees and brush and odd jobs. It sits most of the time in the garage, but fires up on the 2nd or 3rd pull every time!! I keep it clean, the chain sharp and covered and about 1/2 tank of gas. Original plug and chain after about 5 years. No complaints. A couple friends have Stihls, I borrowed one and had to buy one myself.

[Billy Chambless]

One of the best things to do is to find out which brand has the best local dealer support, and then buy that brand of saw. Forget the BORG's, instead try to find a good chainsaw or small equipment shop that services what they sell, and seek their advice and buy from them. You might pay a few bucks more, but it will come back to you in the long run with their service and support.



This times 1000! And at least at my local Stihl dealer, a lot of times minor service and support ends up being free, so the price difference is pretty much a wash.

[Donald Hofmann]

We have had a Stihl 023 since 1992. We have cut many trees and many ricks of wood- no problems other than wearing out lots of chains.

We went with a solid tip Oregon bar and ditched the safety chain- it slows down cutting too much.

Bought a smaller MS180 in 2004, its a good saw as well, is a little finicky about starting and I hate the safety chain

[Bob Smalser]

....do you have any more pictures of that chainsaw running a winch? I've thought of running a bumper mounted winch to skid logs up a hillside. I have an old Homelite 650 that could do the job, but what are you mounting the saw on?



http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2597650/374606756.jpg

The small chainsaw winch has its uses, but skidding logs of any size isn't one of them. Mostly it's used to roll logs where a peavy can't. Tunnel beneath the log, run the cable beneath, up the front side and hammer the hook into the log. The winch is then chained to an anchor and the cable and hook roll the log. Here the old, dark chain attaches the hook to the cable and the shiny new chain is bolted to the winch body as an anchor.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2597650/45010883.jpg

A bumper-mounted winch will skid logs providing you can get some elevation on the front end of the log. That's where the turning block strapped at head height to a tree comes into play.

Last....try to buy commercial-grade saws. They can be rebuilt when required very economically. I have an article over on Woodcentral on rebuilding this old Farm Boss with new piston and head after my 85-yr-old FIL mixed up his cans and used the wrong fuel. A tough saw, but they have their limits.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2597650/374607582.jpg

[Cary Lane]

Another name to consider is Jonsered. Although they are corporate (Electrolux) bed-partners with Husqvarna.

Consider using a premium 2-cycle oil, my father-in-law swears by the Amsoil mix and his "junker" Craftsman saw runs awfully good. I grew up with my dad owning a couple of Jonsered saws and I've used both Stihl and Husqvarna saws. Couldn't go wrong with those names.

This thread got me thinking I ought to get a saw myself for homeowner projects. But like the OP, I will go straight to top shelf names, no Poulan, etc. for me. I'll probably go the Jonsered route since that what Dad has. I find myself doing more and more "just like him." I even mow with a LawnBoy and bag it - just like I did every week as a kid! Yikes!

[Mike Cruz]

I know I said it before, but I'm gonna say it again. I own a Stihl and love it. My point about the Poulan is that if all you are going to do is make some cuts for WW projects, a 20" Poulan will more than do the job for 1/2 the price. They are actually quite dependable, too. I would not liken the Poulan to buying cheap HF stuff and cursing the whole time you are using it. Unless, maybe, if you cut wood 8 hours a day. The saws start easily, are dependable and cut as fast (or at least nearly as fast) as the nice saws. Precision is not what you are buying a chainsaw for, so it is not like buying a cheap TS for occasional cuts. Or a cheap wrench that won't grip the head of a nut because it keeps "opening" up. Grrrrrr, I've had that one happen, never again... As long as you keep your chain sharp, even the Poulan will hold its own. Like I said, I ran a Poulan 20" for 8 years, cutting 4 cords of oak and locust a year. That said, the Stihl IS more comfortable, and less taxing on the body to run for an extended period of time.

[Myk Rian]

You want a chainsaw that will cut anything? Here ya go.
http://sixpacktech.blogspot.com/2007/10/monster-chainsaws.html

[william scott]

Thanks Bob, that gives me a few ideas. I wouldn't be skidding logs of any great size, just Pinyon up out of draws and gullies. It isn't much fun trying to carry cuttings of any size up a hill at 7500 ft.! The Pinyons aren't tall enough to rig a skyline, so I've been scratching my head as to how to work a winch at ground level. I think I may have a way to do that now.

[Rich Aldrich]

My family is into logging and Huskvarna has been the saw of choice. I have a 365 which is 4.6 hp with a 20" bar and does a very good job on hardwood firewood. Some of the trees that I take off my property, which won't be logs due to bad spots, are around 30".

Of course, my dad has two "hydraulic" chain saws. A 490 John Deere with Rollie II head and a John Deere 1225. They have air conditioning, heat, radio and operate thru joy sticks. My dad actually cut his firewood to 16" lengths with the 490 this year. He is only 73 and goes to work every weekday.

[Matt Ranum]

One thing with chainsaw opinions its always a Ford vs Chevy debate. We've used a lot of different saws and you will always find one by any manufacturer thats just a pile of crap. It happens. If you stick with a name brand i.e. Husky, Stihl, Johnsered, or Echo odds are your gonna be happy with it. Last year when shopping for new saws again, we do this every couple years, I thought we would try Echo since they redesigned them. I've been very impressed and its the easiest on gas we use.

A word of caution...
Whatever you buy, use only that brand of oil in the mix, meaning if you buy a Husky use only Husky oil while its under warranty. Dealers/service centers are required to do a wick test of the gas to check the color of the 2 cycle oil that was used. If it isn't theirs they can and most likely will void your warranty. I have heard this from several dealers.

Compare warranties. Best warranty I know of is Echo, 5 years, 1 year if used commercially.

[John Keeton]

I'm not really certain on the size, but I would imagine that most of the trees I would be dealing with would be less than 24" with the occasional tree that's between 24-36 inches.Stephen, you have received some very good suggestions on various brands of saws. Many that have responded use chainsaws on a regular basis. And, many of those folks often cut wood wider than the length of their bar, which requires burying the nose of the saw in the cut.

For most, that is an extremely dangerous situation, particularly if wood comes in contact with the upper portion of the nose. Kickback will occur quickly and be difficult to control.

Most of the suggestions have involved bars shorter than 24 - 36" - the range you indicate a need for. I would just ask that you realize the limitations of any saw you get. While I could cut a trunk nearly twice as wide as the bar length on my Farm Boss, that doesn't mean I should do it. It is a dangerous move, and even a very experienced chainsaw user can have kickback.

I think most would agree that it is wise to avoid burying the nose in the work, so your max cut is or should be limited by the bar length of the saw.

[Alex Leslie]

I have two Huskys and am very happy with them. Good advice so far, but I might add:

Never use gas with ethanol in any small engine,
Never, never, never use outboard motor two-cycle oil in a chainsaw!
When you are not going to use your saw for a period of time, dump out the gas and run it dry. This will keep your carb clean.
A sharp chain is like extra horsepower - never let it touch the dirt.

[Bob Smalser]

...many of those folks often cut wood wider than the length of their bar, which requires burying the nose of the saw in the cut.

For most, that is an extremely dangerous situation....

I think most would agree that it is wise to avoid burying the nose in the work, so your max cut is or should be limited by the bar length of the saw.



Respectfully, I have to disagree.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3223936/374689324.jpg

Y'all are either gonna learn how to use the saw and all its capabilities safely, or you're not and probably shouldn't own one at all. The in-betweens will get you hurt out there in the dark rain under headlights trying to clear storm damage so your elderly neighbor can get to the doctor and all the pros are tied up with powerline repairs.

Cutting logs deeper than bars is a common task in most parts of the country, and you should master keeping the nose higher than the powerhead as a matter of habit. Do you have to learn to make the plunge cuts professional fallers use to test for trunk rot? No, but the bar control techniques required for deep logs are the safest method to cut any log, and if plastic falling wedges and falling axe to drive them with aren't in your emergency kit, they should be. Storm-fallen trunks can be hard to read, and mastering those will minimize the chances of getting your bar helplessly stuck with you the only saw clearing the road.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3223936/39530968.jpg

It's touching the the upper quarter of the bar nose to the log that causes kickbacks. Avoid leading with the nose. When bucking a log from top to bottom, keep the nose slightly higher than the powerhead all the way through the cut. When bucking a log from bottom to top, keep the nose slightly beneath the powerhead.

If there is any doubt about the kerf pinching the bar, once the bar is sufficiently deep drive a wedge behind the bar so the saw can be freed if the log moves the wrong way. Once the saw if free, resume the cut from the opposite side of the log.

A plunge cut is made beginning with the lower part of the lower half of the bar nose until it's firmly captured a few inches deep in solid wood then gradually rolling the nose to the upper part of the nose's lower half and pushing the saw in like a sword.

[John Keeton]

Bob, of course you are correct, and obviously have a great deal of experience in this area. My concern is that the OP has asked about buying his first chain saw to cut downed trees from 24 - 36". It just seems unwise for someone with no experience to attempt that type of cut. The learning curve on a kickback with a chainsaw at full throttle is pretty short.

When the risk of serious injury is high, I would err on the conservative side. It just doesn't seem worth it to me. Obviously, others may disagree. We are talking about getting wood to enjoy a hobby here, not embarking on a new livelihood of felling large trees.

I just want a safe and enjoyable hobby for all. The biggest cause of chainsaw injury is mishandling by the operator. Again, the OP apparently has no experience.

[Bob Smalser]

.... The biggest cause of chainsaw injury is mishandling by the operator.

I've never been impressed with the safety and training publications and gizmos available. Most seem more designed to prevent lawsuits against the saw manufacturer than protect the average user by training him thoroughly.

From my observations, kickbacks generally don't occur cutting what the operator intended to cut. They occur when the bar nose contacts a limb or brush the operator didn't notice or didn't think necessary to clear from the sawing area as a first step. Often compounded by poor footing and an awkward body position because he didn't think to clear those areas either. Hence my comments about haste and storm damage at night.

Notice my falling pics look like they were taken in a groomed park....even those made in the deep woods. The trash and slash around the work area is removed to protect the faller from the saw as well as provide a clean escape from a barberchairing tree.

So I'm afraid it's all self-training. Obviously one crawls before one walks and runs, or Darwin takes over to limit perpetuating those genes. I haven't even touched on the necessity or corked boots for more difficult jobs. ;)

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3075040/137986260.jpg

[Dave Lehnert]

A word of caution...
Whatever you buy, use only that brand of oil in the mix, meaning if you buy a Husky use only Husky oil while its under warranty. Dealers/service centers are required to do a wick test of the gas to check the color of the 2 cycle oil that was used. If it isn't theirs they can and most likely will void your warranty. I have heard this from several dealers.


If a manufacture requires you to use their own brand product under warranty they must provide it for free. It's called the the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.

"Tie-In Sales" Provisions
Generally, tie-in sales provisions are not allowed. Such a provision would require a purchaser of the warranted product to buy an item or service from a particular company to use with the warranted product in order to be eligible to receive a remedy under the warranty.

[Matt Ranum]

If a manufacture requires you to use their own brand product under warranty they must provide it for free. It's called the the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.

"Tie-In Sales" Provisions
Generally, tie-in sales provisions are not allowed. Such a provision would require a purchaser of the warranted product to buy an item or service from a particular company to use with the warranted product in order to be eligible to receive a remedy under the warranty.

I stand corrected, just going by what I was told.

It makes me wonder though if I made engines and someone went to one of my dealers with spun bearings on the crankshaft from running an oil that I deemed insufficient......would I have to honor a warranty?

I'm not trying to debate an issue here just looking for an opinion as to how a company could reject a warranty issue.:confused:

[Dave Lehnert]

I stand corrected, just going by what I was told.

It makes me wonder though if I made engines and someone went to one of my dealers with spun bearings on the crankshaft from running an oil that I deemed insufficient......would I have to honor a warranty?

I'm not trying to debate an issue here just looking for an opinion as to how a company could reject a warranty issue.:confused:

The key would be "insufficient oil" Just as long the customer used an oil up to the manufacture standard (any brand) you would have to honer the warranty.

[william scott]

They occur when the bar nose contacts a limb or brush the operator didn't notice or didn't think necessary to clear from the sawing area as a first step. Often compounded by poor footing and an awkward body position because he didn't think to clear those areas either. Hence my comments about haste and storm damage at night.



You hit the nail on the head, Bob. Haste will kill you when you are falling and/or bucking timber. Trees get hung up with tension on 'em, but they can look safe at first glance. You cut into it and about half way through, the tension snaps the log and the log flings itself out into you!

You always have to take the time and walk the cutting area. Get the brush out of the way and make sure you have an escape route that's clear, especially if you are falling. Really inspect any downed trees and limbs for tension. Always make sure you have at least an Ax and falling wedges. I also like to have a crosscut saw along. Take your time, you can get hurt in a hurry.

[Mike Cruz]

Like this one?

http://martinsburg.craigslist.org/tls/1390273557.html

[Brian Brightwell]

Well, there is a lot to learn about chainsaws. You don't have to know it all to use one safely, just know your limitations. Some of these replies are good some are crap.
I suggest you go to "http://www.arboristsite.com/images/misc/navbits_start.gif (http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9&order=desc#) ArboristSite.com (http://www.arboristsite.com/index.php) > Equipment Forums (http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=16)You can search this topic to death.
I have to laugh when someone says a Stilh FarmBoss is great. A statement like that makes you realize they know little about chainsaws.

[Dan Ewalt]

Well, there is a lot to learn about chainsaws. You don't have to know it all to use one safely, just know your limitations. Some of these replies are good some are crap.
I suggest you go to "http://www.arboristsite.com/images/misc/navbits_start.gif (http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9&order=desc#) ArboristSite.com (http://www.arboristsite.com/index.php) > Equipment Forums (http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=16)You can search this topic to death.
I have to laugh when someone says a Stilh FarmBoss is great. A statement like that makes you realize they know little about chainsaws.

Yeah like that one. :rolleyes:

Please enlighten me as to why the MS290 is such a bad saw??????

Also please enlighten me as to what far better saw you have in the $350 price range????

[Mike Cruz]

Dan, I second that!

Brian, the saw runs extremely smooth and fast, is easy on the user, and lasts forever. What is wrong with that?

If by saying that it shows how little a person knows about chain saws you mean that these folks (me included) know nothing about the internal workings of the saw...maybe you are right. I don't. I understand the general mechanics of a chainsaw. I know how to fill it with gas, add oil, and change the chain. I know to clean the saw of any gunked up oil/chips with each chain change. I know to bring it in to get serviced when needed. I don't enjoy sharpening the chains. So I own 4 for each of my saws. When 3 chains for a particular saw are dull, I bring them in to get professionally sharpened.

I don't know how to "fix" it (any chainsaw) when it is broken. But to clarify this, I know the same level of care/maintenance for my truck, ATV, tractor, boat, tailers, and shop equipment. To claim that I don't know anything about them is ignorant.

You may be a chainsaw maven/guru/snob, and I can appreciate that. But don't stick up your nose and point fingers at others who are not. The OP was asking about a chainsaw to cut some wood for turning. I said it before, I'll say it again. He would do JUST FINE with a Poulan. Is Poulan a great saw? No, but for the little he'd us it, it would do EXACTLY what he would ask of it.

This person asked the equivelant of "I need a car...about a 15 minute drive once a week, anyone have a suggestion?" The answer is that anything from a Prius to a Hummer to a Ferrari would work. Don't be a Ferrari snob and call the Prius lovers unknowledgable about cars. State your opinion objectively and leave out the accusations.

[Jerry Olexa]

My reco: STIHL. I'm very happy with both of mine (as is my neighbor):D

[Mike Cruz]

HA! You want to see a good one. NOT paying attention a couple of winters ago, I was cutting up THIS tree. A red oak about 36" at the base (yes, I felled this tree and cut it up entirely with my 8 year old 20" Poulan). While cutting one of the limbs (and kinda in a hurry to "get it done"...stupid, stupid, stupid!) I didn't pay attention to the stress on this limb. I was standing on the wrong side of it. When I mad the cut, the limb swung right at me, catching me right in the middle of the left shin. In an instant, my leg kicked back (from the force of a 6" baseball bat swung by a home run hitter), I threw the saw away from me and limped away...the knot on my shin swelling as I watched. I got SO lucky. Where it hit my shin, my leg still flexed back with the impact normally. Had it hit about 6" or so higher (up my leg) my knee would have hyperextended. I've already had surgury on that knee once. The knee was sore for a couple weeks from the impact, though. As a matter of fact, the entire leg and left side of my back was sore from the impact for a while. PS I was standing on the side where my dog is sitting.

I measured the movement...the limb moved about 4 feet from where it started (on the other side of that smaller tree) to where it rested. Of course, when it released, I'm sure it swung further. My left leg was probably about 12 - 18 inches from it when it let loose.

BE CAREFUL. DON'T RUSH. CUTTING WOOD CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS OR FATAL. Had that hit me in the chest, it likely would have broken ribs or worse.

I have to admit, I lost ALL confidence for reading stress after that. It took quite a while for me to regain it. Compacency leads it injury.

[Alan DuBoff]

I have a few chainsaws, all are Husqvarna.

I have a small Husky 336 which is a limbing saw, and I have a 16" 1/4" pitch bar/chain on it, this is used for carving and detail work.

I also have a Husky 359, quite a bit more power, tuned to 14000 rpm currently, this saw is on the verge of being a weapon. It is to be respected.

However, I recently picked up a Husky 350 with a scorched piston/cylinder off craigslist for $25, and bought a piston for it from Bailey's for $30. I rebuilt the saw by using sodium hydroxide (lye, common in drain and oven cleaner) to remove the aluminum from the cylinder, then I ported the intake and exhaust ports by widening them with a Dremel using a carbide burr tip.

I opened up the muffler more by adding a couple deflectors I got for a Husky 288, from Bailey's for a few bucks, and added a couple layers of stainless steel screen to act as the spark arrestor.

Bottom line, this is one bad boy, runs healthy, and a great little saw.

The size of saw you need will depend on the work needing to be done. If you plan to use it on an Alaskan Mlll (or similar) you will want something in the 90cc-100cc, IMO.

I was using a 45cc saw to cut the joinery on this log home a while back, and it worked dandy! This is white pine, 16"-24" tip/butt, and as such is pretty soft. For similar sized fir, I would want to use a 60cc saw, at minimum.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=120108&stc=1&d=1244406705


Here's the similar, but slightly bigger Husky 350 I rebuilt recently:

(linky pic to detail gallery of rebuild and porting)

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=128646&stc=1&d=1253917880 (http://traditionaltoolworks.com/ww/tools/husky-350/)

Lastly, be careful. Chainsaws are DANGEROUS and you can easily cut an arm or leg off, so BE CAREFUL! Respect these tools, and use them safely! Be aware of the kickback zone, most here know about kickback on their table saw, but with a chainsaw the bar/chain are whipped around at the user and why most all saws have a brake on the front to stop the chain when the brake is whipped back at your hand. Chainsaws are tools to be respected...my $0.02...

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have to laugh when someone says a Stilh FarmBoss is great. A statement like that makes you realize they know little about chainsaws.

Why exactly is this a POS saw? I was a small engine mechanic for about 10 years. (Long ago) I'm not going to say I'm an expert by any means, judging from those pics other people post cutting trees. I can say that I've seen a lot of saws, when they aren't in the best of shape. I have a Farm Boss, and I can say it's the best saw I've owned. Better than almost every saw I've seen. Certainly better than an Echo or Shindaiwa. Better IMO than the Husky Rancher. I would say it would be hard to find a better saw for 400 bucks. Period. If you compare it to a 066, yeah, it is a POS. The 066 price is hard to swallow for the firewood cutter though.

[Alan DuBoff]

Why exactly is this a POS saw?
Well, doesn't it have those crappy rubber washer thingies for anti-vibe, rather than real springs? The 290 is probably one of the most beat up saws of all, not sure why but a lot of folks do not like them. The rubber washers are one.

Others say they are heavy and underpowered, for their rating. They weigh about 13 lbs. and although they are rated for 56.5cc people say it doesn't feel nearly like it.

It is also a clamshell design, this means that part of the saw is encased in plastic, rather than the more solid style of a metal cylinder/crankcase. This is not a bad thing, I have a saw that is a clamshell, but it is a much different type of saw than the 290. Also, the 290 is not a pro quality saw, it's designed for occasional use.

One can get a better saw for the same price, and I think why most people don't care for them.

You asked...but it's all relative and the 290 could fit someone's needs just fine...

EDIT: to add a recommendation, Husqvarna 445 has a list price of $309, I think a way better saw that handles much better. I have used the 445 and after it is broken in, it's a nice little saw, and only about 10 lbs. If you had more money, I'd say get a 346xp, but you'll spend about $450 to get one of them.

[Mike Cruz]

Hehe, funny that you mention springs being a high quality anti-vibe feature. That is exactly what my 20" Poulan had. I doubt you would call that a quality chainsaw. Likely you wouldn't even consider it a chainsaw at all...:rolleyes:

[Matt Ranum]

Alan when you want to upgrade the 336 look for a 338 "California Special" that sucker has some snort. It says "California" right on the brake/chain cover. We've used the Husky top handles a lot over the years and the 338 has quite a bit more torque than the 336. When you compare the normal 338 to the special version, it is about like comparing the 338 to the 336. The "special" has a larger displacement engine if my memory serves.

We've also had 2 350's and were/are great runners except they both had the muffler bolts loosen up unexpectedly which turns out to be a common problem with them and their Johnsered cousin. They used a hollow muffler with no support for the bolts for a time. Maybe thats what led to the scored piston in the one you picked up.

[Alan DuBoff]

Alan when you want to upgrade the 336 look for a 338 "California Special" that sucker has some snort. It says "California" right on the brake/chain cover. We've used the Husky top handles a lot over the years and the 338 has quite a bit more torque than the 336. When you compare the normal 338 to the special version, it is about like comparing the 338 to the 336. The "special" has a larger displacement engine if my memory serves.
Actually the 336 is like the 339, it's a rear handle. It has the same engine as the 334T which you might be confusing it with, but it is a rear handle, like the 339xp. It is not made anymore, and is only 35.2cc.

That said, would love to see a cali edition of the 339xp, since the Cali version you mention is 45cc as I recall (338xpt Cali Edition).

We've also had 2 350's and were/are great runners except they both had the muffler bolts loosen up unexpectedly which turns out to be a common problem with them and their Johnsered cousin. They used a hollow muffler with no support for the bolts for a time. Maybe thats what led to the scored piston in the one you picked up.
The 350s will take a 346xp top end on them, same bolt pattern. I may end up doing that, but this seems to run pretty healthy now, I like it.

Truth be told, I didn't need it, I bought the blown 350 to learn how to work on 2-stroke engines. I wanted to mod the muffler on my 359 and possibly port it, but wanted to learn on something else as I need it for bucking the ends of the logs I'm building with.

Here's the 336 with a 16" quarter tip carving bar:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=128682&stc=1&d=1253937365

Here's the first thing I did with it, playing around:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=128684&stc=1&d=1253937696

I just got a loop of this fullhouse chain for it that I want to test.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=128683&stc=1&d=1253937365

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Well, doesn't it have those crappy rubber washer thingies for anti-vibe, rather than real springs? The 290 is probably one of the most beat up saws of all, not sure why but a lot of folks do not like them. The rubber washers are one.

Others say they are heavy and underpowered, for their rating. They weigh about 13 lbs. and although they are rated for 56.5cc people say it doesn't feel nearly like it.

It is also a clamshell design, this means that part of the saw is encased in plastic, rather than the more solid style of a metal cylinder/crankcase. This is not a bad thing, I have a saw that is a clamshell, but it is a much different type of saw than the 290. Also, the 290 is not a pro quality saw, it's designed for occasional use.

One can get a better saw for the same price, and I think why most people don't care for them.

You asked...but it's all relative and the 290 could fit someone's needs just fine...

EDIT: to add a recommendation, Husqvarna 445 has a list price of $309, I think a way better saw that handles much better. I have used the 445 and after it is broken in, it's a nice little saw, and only about 10 lbs. If you had more money, I'd say get a 346xp, but you'll spend about $450 to get one of them.

Um, where is the $309 Rancher price? Factory reconditioned? Is it all aluminum? No. Not saying Amazon is the best place, but they list it as $360. It's smaller in displacement, and I've used one. AND the qoute is the 290 a laugh of a saw. It may not be the best, if you read my post, but for the money, it's hardly a laugh. It's NOT a pro saw. Yes, you can pay more and get more. If you are a pro, I wouldn't get it. But, I wouldn't get the Rancher either.

[Alan DuBoff]

Um, where is the $309 Rancher price? Factory reconditioned? Is it all aluminum? No. Not saying Amazon is the best place, but they list it as $360. It's smaller in displacement, and I've used one. AND the qoute is the 290 a laugh of a saw. It may not be the best, if you read my post, but for the money, it's hardly a laugh. It's NOT a pro saw. Yes, you can pay more and get more. If you are a pro, I wouldn't get it. But, I wouldn't get the Rancher either.
Maybe you misunderstood my post. I didn't recommend the Rancher, I was recommending the 445. The Rancher is the 455.

On the Husqvarna site it list the 445 for $309 (http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/products/chainsaws/445/), you can get it cheaper, slightly, but there is not a lot of margin for the dealers on those low end saws. I have one dealer by me that charges over list for Husqvarna, so I don't shop there. I have used the 445 and it's a good saw, it is substantial less in weight than the 290.

The 445 is not a pro saw either, but it's 3 lbs. lighter and will most likely keep up with a 290 in the cut.

Anyway, you asked why it's a POS, I answered why I believe people think they are, I don't own a 290 and I'm sure it's a great saw. Didn't mean to hit a hot button for 'ya...next time don't ask. :D

[David Keller NC]

Stephen - Something tells me you've long ago stopped reading this thread, but for what you're trying to do (bucking felled trees less than 2 feet in diameter), buy a Stihl or a Husqvarna with a 16" bar and a displacement of about 50cc. The Stihl MS 270 through MS 290 (i.e., the "farm boss") is about right.

I do a lot of heavy-duty sawing, and own 3 Stihl saws, the biggest of which is a monster 066 Magnum (now the MS 660). The smallest is the 290 Farm Boss. Many folks make the mistake of buying a chainsaw that's too big and with a bar that's too long for what they want to do. Not only is weilding a saw that's too big for the job considerably more dangerous than using a smaller saw, it's also a lot more work, as you have to deal with the extra weight for the entire time that you're sawing.

And, a word of warning. Most injuries when cutting wood isn't a result of contact with the running chain (though those are often severe or fatal accidents), it's from kick-back of a limb or trunk that has pressure on it until released by the cut. Particularly with american hardwoods like wet oak, ash or maple, just a small 6" diameter limb can weigh in at about 30 lbs. per foot of length. Think of standing still while a major league ball player swings a bat at your body with full force, and you'll get the idea.

To that end, you need to at least have a discussion with an experienced sawyer to learn how to "read" the tree and learn where to make the cuts so that you don't get whacked by spring-back. And I would highly recommend blowing the extra $150 or so for a set of cut-resistant coveralls and a hard-hat with built in hearing and vision protection. The coveralls may be hot and somewhat bulky, but it will stop a running chain in the event of a stray touch. You'll still likely get cut, but it will be the difference between stitches and major surgery to repair the damage.

[Brian Brightwell]

Sorry folks, I didn't reply sooner, I was out cutting trees. In my post I did not say the Stihl Farmboss was crap. I said it was not a great saw,which it is not. Even for the money it is not a good choice. It is not a good choice for the reasons Alan Duboff mentioned.
I stand by my statement that some replies give good information and some are crap.
I think the original post would be better served by researching this topic on the Arborist Site under chainsaws. Those people are very knowledgeable about chainsaws but most probably know little about plunge routers!!!


Husky 262xp 261 l65 Dolmar 5100 7900 Redmax3800

[Alan DuBoff]

Hehe, funny that you mention springs being a high quality anti-vibe feature. That is exactly what my 20" Poulan had. I doubt you would call that a quality chainsaw. Likely you wouldn't even consider it a chainsaw at all...:rolleyes:
Didn't mean to ignore you, I missed this back up the thread. There's a lot of folks that use and love Poulan saws. I like the Poulan bar oil (green container), it's really sticky and stays on the bar and it's cheap. There is nothing wrong with the Poulans, and now they are owned by Husky. Sure, if you take a "wild thing", don't sharpen the chain and are cutting through nails, dirt, and gravel, it's probably not gonna perform too well...a tool is relative and we all pick the ones we end up owning.

Sorry folks, I didn't reply sooner, I was out cutting trees. In my post I did not say the Stihl Farmboss was crap. I said it was not a great saw,which it is not. Even for the money it is not a good choice.
It wouldn't be on my short list either, but it might work out for the original poster, IMO, who knows. The thing we notice is that people get very defensive over something they use, which works. In that regard I'm sure that folks have Poulan wild things and are perfectly happy with them, I see them for sale on craigslist all the time, so they sell a LOT of them.

Suffice to say that the 290 is a better saw than the wild thing, IMO, and it seems to work fine for Kyle. In that regards, more power to him, a reasonably priced saw that gets the job done for him. The weight obviously doesn't bother him either. Life is relative...

I stand by my statement that some replies give good information and some are crap.
This is true of most all things on the net.(worth every penny you pay for it)

I think the original post would be better served by researching this topic on the Arborist Site under chainsaws. Those people are very knowledgeable about chainsaws but most probably know little about plunge routers!!!
Some might surprise you at what they know about woodworking, I do hang out there...my only comment, you had better wear your nomex suit if you go over there, the chainsaw forum is not for the meek. Be warned...

Husky 262xp 261 l65 Dolmar 5100 7900 Redmax3800
Nice collection of saws there Brian. Lots of people consider the 5100/7900 to be one of the best 2-saw plans going.

I hear those 3800s really open up with a muffler mod.

[Mike Cruz]

That is EXACTLY what happened to me. I don't know if you read it, but I posted it in this thread...with pics of where the limb ended up. The limb WAS on the right side of the ASH (the one with my dog sitting to the left of the limb and the Ash.) I got VERY lucky. That is what happens when you rush, get over confindent, and have other things on your mind. (Another) lesson learned.

[Phillip Marsh]

Stihl is the pro's choice for good reason. Tough and lots of power for their weight and most important - easy to find spare parts or get repaired. Check around your area for people doing chain saw repair and see what they work on and repair and tend to stock parts for at their shop.

Important to also match the chain for the type of wood you expect to be cutting - seasoned wood and green trees require different cutting tip designs to get the most out of your chain saw without overworking it or yourself.

[Alan DuBoff]

That is EXACTLY what happened to me. I don't know if you read it, but I posted it in this thread...with pics of where the limb ended up. The limb WAS on the right side of the ASH (the one with my dog sitting to the left of the limb and the Ash.) I got VERY lucky. That is what happens when you rush, get over confindent, and have other things on your mind. (Another) lesson learned.
This is exactly why homeowners need to be aware of the dangers of felling.

Worse is what is known as the barber chair, where a tree is leaning and someone wants to fell it some other way than it is leaning. As the stress in the tree unwinds, the base is often whipped up and the tree spins around.

It is important to understand that professional arborists have educated themselves and understand trees better than the average homeowner, and there are often times when it is better to hire a professional, in the end it can save you money.

This is also why you hear about people that go out and buy a 290 farm boss and the next thing you know they fell a tree on their own house...:(

Know and understand your limitations, the mistakes that happen when felling trees are not insignificant...:rolleyes:

Lucky I don't fell trees very often at all, the timber I'm working with has been felled already. This guy was lucky he didn't do more damage. Look how small the wedge cut is on the opposite side, where he wants the tree to fall! It should be more like 1/3rd to 1/2 of the diameter of the tree. I'm not sure how to embed the video, but here's a link to youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpJTJ5OA4HU).

[Matt Ranum]

This is exactly why homeowners need to be aware of the dangers of felling.

Worse is what is known as the barber chair, where a tree is leaning and someone wants to fell it some other way than it is leaning. As the stress in the tree unwinds, the base is often whipped up and the tree spins around.

It is important to understand that professional arborists have educated themselves and understand trees better than the average homeowner, and there are often times when it is better to hire a professional, in the end it can save you money.

This is also why you hear about people that go out and buy a 290 farm boss and the next thing you know they fell a tree on their own house...:(

Know and understand your limitations, the mistakes that happen when felling trees are not insignificant...:rolleyes:

Lucky I don't fell trees very often at all, the timber I'm working with has been felled already. This guy was lucky he didn't do more damage. Look how small the wedge cut is on the opposite side, where he wants the tree to fall! It should be more like 1/3rd to 1/2 of the diameter of the tree. I'm not sure how to embed the video, but here's a link to youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpJTJ5OA4HU).

No way I would have attempted that without at least a cable and a hinge point pulling in the CORRECT direction or talk one of my tree surgeon friends to take it down from the top down.

This what you call..... "not thinking things through."

Idiot:rolleyes:

[Brian Brightwell]

Phillip Marsh (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?u=54734), do you think pros don't use Husqvarna? for their power and weight.
When I needed Stihl parts the dealer was more than glad to order them for me, with Dolmar and Husky I can order them myself. Easier this way if you do your own work.
I don't know of anyone who changes cutter type for green or seasoned wood. Some people do prefer semi-chisel for dirty wood.
The way I see it Stihl Husky Dolmar and Redmax all make good saws. Some people get blinded by brand loyalty. Stihl has Pro saws and Occasional use saws (their words) same with Husky. To get the best saw for a given size, it could come form any of the manufactures.

[Mike Cruz]

Ok, everyone. Tempers have flared (yes, I admit, mine too) and opinions gave been given; accusations made, and loyalties shown. How about remembering what the OP wanted to know: what is a good chainsaw to cut up felled trees for turning?

This thread has become a "pick sides" between those who do some cutting and love their saws, and those who are cutting experts and are downing on those who "think they know, but don't".

Luckily this thread is about chain saws...not table saws. If it were about TS's with this tone and attitude, we would likely lose members.

Isn't this forum supposed to be about helping, advice, and knowledge rather than accusations, snobbiness, and elitism?

Hey, I'm sure those with Sawstops and Laguna TS's love their machines. I'm sure they think their TS's are superior to Deltas, Jets, and Grizzlys. But the last thing I want to hear when I get on this forum is that my equipment is crap, and that I don't know what I'm talking about and that I am a brand buyer for the sake of the brand just because I don't own a Sawstop or Laguna.

Maybe Stihl isn't the best chainsaw brand. Well, neither is Grizzly the best TS brand. But the OP asked for a good brand of chain saw for a paricular application. Many expressed their belief about Stihl, Huskys, and others. And for what the OP wanted, those responses were accurate. Would you tell a person on the Creek that asked about a good brand of TS for occasional cutting that he needed a Sawstop (for quality of the machine, not the safety aspect) or a Laguna? Especially if he had a budget of about $800-1200?

Sorry about the rant, but I am amazed at, discouraged at, and dissappointed with the way some threads go. They start out with someone asking for advice, and end up with name calling.

Hey, OP, get a hand saw and use some elbow grease...avoid the conflict! ;)

[Alan DuBoff]

Mike,

Not to worry, what folks like they like.

It's just a saw, so it is best to use the ones that one feels comfortable with.

I have seen a couple saws locally that would have worked perfectly fine for the OP, an old Mac 10-10 for $20, and a Homelite 240 for $15. Both on craigslist local to me. Some would say not a very good saw, but will chunk up turning stock, as you point out.

These chainsaws are way better than a SawStop, and will even cut hot dogs.:p

[Orion Henderson]

I've never been impressed with the safety and training publications and gizmos available. Most seem more designed to prevent lawsuits against the saw manufacturer than protect the average user by training him thoroughly.

From my observations, kickbacks generally don't occur cutting what the operator intended to cut. They occur when the bar nose contacts a limb or brush the operator didn't notice or didn't think necessary to clear from the sawing area as a first step. Often compounded by poor footing and an awkward body position because he didn't think to clear those areas either. Hence my comments about haste and storm damage at night.

Notice my falling pics look like they were taken in a groomed park....even those made in the deep woods. The trash and slash around the work area is removed to protect the faller from the saw as well as provide a clean escape from a barberchairing tree.

So I'm afraid it's all self-training. Obviously one crawls before one walks and runs, or Darwin takes over to limit perpetuating those genes. I haven't even touched on the necessity or corked boots for more difficult jobs. ;)

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3075040/137986260.jpg

I don't know anything about chainsaws-but these are some darn cool pictures. Thanks for posting them up.

[Alan DuBoff]

Sorry folks, I didn't reply sooner, I was out cutting trees. In my post I did not say the Stihl Farmboss was crap.
I gave one a good look over at the dealer yesterday when I was there.

I won't say it's crap either, but still stand by my comments..."it wouldn't be on my short list", I don't think I would buy one. If I was going to get a Stihl, I would buy a quality saw.

That said, I'm not getting rid of my Huskys...it's very noticeable how much weight difference between Husky and Stihl of comparable models/size. I haven't compared in a while, but VERY noticeable. Of course when I picked up that Husky 385 with a 36" bar on it, I could honestly say...I do NOT need a saw that big...:rolleyes:

Got a new 12" bar for my 336...been playing with it today...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=129229&stc=1&d=1254616550

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=129230&stc=1&d=1254616550

[Alan DuBoff]

I found this on craigslist, don't have it running yet, but it fired for a few seconds and stopped. This is the biggest saw I own, 72cc. I might trade it after I get it running.

I paid $80 for it as-is. Has a 24" bar in great shape with a loop of Stihl 3/8" chain that is almost new. Compression is 150-160 psi.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=129803&stc=1&d=1255223612

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=129807&stc=1&d=1255223854

[Allan Froehlich]

I recently pought a Stihl Farm Boss. It was a big step up from my previous saw which was a $125 home depot special.

[Alan DuBoff]

I recently pought a Stihl Farm Boss. It was a big step up from my previous saw which was a $125 home depot special.
Probably is at that! I was just looking at the spec, and Holy Pazoley Batman, that saw weighs 13 lbs. It is just a hair lighter than this 041 Super I just picked up...I will give you one thing though, and that's that you don't have to spend time trouble shooting why the saw doesn't work and/or buy another $75 is parts! lol I wouldn't recommend that type of saw I just got for a homeowner actually, doesn't have a brake. The Farm Boss, OTOH, I guess makes sense for one...

You might have a cord or two of wood cut before I get it running! ;)

The one thing I would recommend, if you don't already, is to learn how to sharpen your chain with a file. It is not that hard and is something that everyone should do, just like any edge tool, chains require sharpening. Even if you get a grinder, or take your chain to a shop to be sharpened for you, make sure you keep a sharp chain. I think everyone should know how to file their chain. My $0.02, offered up for free! ;)

[Damon Marxer]

Stephen:

Your situation sounds very similar to mine. I needed a chainsaw at the start of this year to cut up a number of felled tree's and I also do some turning. I did a considerable amount of research and settled on a Stihl 280 with an 18" bar and it has been more than sufficient. I was also looking at a Husky which I am sure would have been just as good for what I needed.

One item I would suggest is to invest in a pair of chain saw chaps and steel toed shoes and use them at all times. I know how easily accidents can happen, even when being careful, and it is better to be safe than sorry. My wife works in ER so I am always hearing the horror stories from her of chain saw accidents.

Good luck in your search.

Damon

[Alan DuBoff]

I recently pought a Stihl Farm Boss. It was a big step up from my previous saw which was a $125 home depot special.
Allan,

I just bought an 029 Super, was the predecessor to the MS290, I'm not sure of the exact difference.

I bought this for $75. It's a bit plasticy, but not as much as the new ones. Runs strong, wasn't really used too much.

This is what it looked like inside:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130432&stc=1&d=1255853444

The seller said he had never sharpened the chain, and that he thought it would need it...do you think?

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130433&stc=1&d=1255853444

After I cleaned it up:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130434&stc=1&d=1255853918

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130435&stc=1&d=1255853918

Aside from getting the chain sharpened, it's ready to go back to work.

I still do not know if I'd buy a new one, but if money is not an issue, it's probably not a bad saw. Hard to pass up a saw for $75, at least for me.

As a bonus, the seller sold me this burl table for $20, I actually thought it could have been worth the price of the saw and the table both, he probably paid a few hundred bucks for it.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130436&stc=1&d=1255854191

[Alan DuBoff]

I going to lend this 029 Super to a friend of mine and let him test it for cutting firewood.

I've had some time to look it over, and it is plasticy...but that might not matter for a homeowner that needs to cut firewood, and that would explain the delight from the folks that have bought them new.

Looks to cost about $350 in my area (MS290).

Here's my concern with the saw. If you look at this picture of the cylinder, you can see the crankcase under, but that section is made of plastic. I'm referring to piece 11 in the diagram. The cylinder bolts to that piece and what holds the crankshaft and holds it with the bearings.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130459&stc=1&d=1255902109
Now, if you look at the chassis of the saw in the following picture, and how it fits on the chassis/body of the saw, what encloses and forms the bottom end of the saw is entirely plastic.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130460&stc=1&d=1255902109
The reason I don't like that is that it prevents me from doing too much to that section of the saw and/or just the fact that steel would be stronger most likely. I have heard these are pretty easy to open though, and can be taken apart fairly easily...

In practice the 290 seems to be pretty durable, and a lot of people use them to cut firewood. So, even though a big portion is made of plastic, they seem to be able to take some abuse, like rolling around in the back of a pickup truck. Sure, they won't survive having a tree fall on them, but let's hope that most homeowners don't end up in that situation...that ain't good! :rolleyes:

Comparing it to the MS260 which is a pro quality saw, and at which is about $600, I guess these plasticy saws could have a place.

I'm going to drill some holes in my muffler and cut the limiter tabs off the carb adjuster and re-tune it before I lend it out, and I think that will just make it feel like a better saw in general.

I know that most homeowners wouldn't do that, but that is the way to tune them up into a a better tool.

Mine has a 16" bar on it, and I suspect that a homeowner can easily cut 28"-30" trees with it.

And if Smalser would let his Dad use one, maybe they can't be that bad...:p

[Ed Beers]

A couple of comments about Echo. I see the pros here climbing in trees with them. For bigger saws I mostly see them using Stihl.

The Borg sells Echo but they can't discount off list. My local dealer will take 5 or 10% off if I ask, has a much larger selection, and can offer useful advise.

One big advantage of Echo over the others is that they offer a 5 year warranty for non-commercial use.

[Alan DuBoff]

Darrell, here's an explanation and pics to show what I did to this saw.

First of all, for anyone not comfortable with tuning up their saw, don't touch it and use it the way it is. I am not advocating that people do this. Once you modify the saw, you need to set/tune it by ear, and not a tachometer. By ear is how it should be done, you can get some audio along with an excellent tutorial at Madsens website (http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm).

That said, the stock settings from Stihl will not allow you to set the chainsaw properly as the needle that controls the high rev will not allow you to go rich enough. The reason is that the H and L needles have limiter caps on them, so you can't fully adjust them. Stihl makes a tool to get these limiters out, but you can get them out without them...read on...

Here's the carb limiters so you can see them (red adjusters), there is a slot that you can barely see in the pic, about 5:00 on the red limiter, and to get these out you need to line up the tab with the little slot and pull them off/out. I tried using an OptiVisor and a flashlight, and screwed a small screw into the end so I could pull it out...in the end the bezel came out inside the metal flange they are inside of (center silver which is plastic, around the limiters). Once you get them out, just cut the tab off the side with a razer blade. and put it back together. Now you can adjust the needles how ever is correct. I turn the needle all the way in and set H = 1 1/4 turns out, and L = 1 turn out. Factory is 1 turn out on each, and that is where the tabs are set, so the H will not be rich enough in most cases. It is better to be rich than lean, because lean will burn a piston/saw up...:rolleyes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130503&stc=1&d=1255934970

The other thing is that the muffler is extremely limiting on these saws, so it helps to open them up a bit. I think the better way would be to open up the muffler and drill some extra holes in the baffle that separates the inlet and exhaust chambers on the muffler, and add more openings in the exhaust chamber. What I have done here is just allow the muffler to breath, and that is not going to flow entirely through the baffle, so the saw will be louder, most likely. I always wear hearing protection when using my chainsaws, so no big deal for me. I drill a couple 3/8" holes. The 2 small slots below is what Stihl put in at the factory...(i.e., to meet EPA). Hearing protection or not, this will sound so cool it will put a smile on your face when you run it...a tuned up saw is a joy to use...with a muffler mod they just sound cool to me.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130504&stc=1&d=1255935025

Then in order to allow that to breath, I opened up the deflector with a Dremel using a cutoff disc, and cleaned it up a bit with a grinding stone tip. Don't forget the spark screen, it's important to have that there.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130507&stc=1&d=1255935025

Now you can tune it up per the Madsen's page I linked to above.

Lastly, here's 2 pics of the piston on top by the rings, and the bottom where the skirt is. You can see this saw wasn't really used to much, and is in excellent shape. Double ring is good also, the smaller Huskys only have a single ring. They do work well though.

What people do when they port is just grind metal away and widen the port as much as they can to about 70 percent of diameter. So the 029 Super and 290 are 46mm, take 70 percent and measure that along the circumference of the cylinder wall. I'm not touching the ports on this, and not sure you can. They may be as wide as they can go. If you go too wide you risk the chance a ring will push into the port and catch on the roof.

The 029 Super and 290 respond well to just a simple muffler mod, so there is no reason to change too much. Good time to clean up inside the muffler area if you take it off, I did on mine, but have enough pics in this post as-is...:rolleyes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130505&stc=1&d=1255935025

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=130506&stc=1&d=1255935025