Need help with a Chinaberry Hollow form

[Bill Bulloch]

I started turning this chinaberry vase without a thought or plan. I have never turner one this tall and cannot figure out how to sand the bottom and lower side walls. This one is 8 inches tall and 5 1/2 inches wide, the walls have a uniform thickness of about 3/8 of an inch. I like it okay, but, the mouth is wide and you can see the bottom; It looks really rough down there. I tried to sand it with sand paper on a stick....that didn't work very well. I know some of you guys turn taller ones that this, so you must have a technique to sand the bottom and lower half through all the grits. Can you share that technique with me????

This, of course, is work it progress... So far the outside has been sanded to 600 grit with a coat of Sanding Sealer on it. I'll not do anything else to it untill I can get the inside sanded to my liking.

Thanks

[Bill Bulloch]

Here is a picture of the bottom of the vase. Ugly.

[Bernie Weishapl]

If you have a wide mouth that will fit a 2" or even a 1" power sanding disc that would work for the bottom. You may need a extension to reach it. Normally I make sure the inside is sanded before I remove it to finish the outside bottom. I sand with sheets as far as my finger will reach then use a long forceps that has sandpaper wrapped around steel wool. Most generally I only go to about 150 (100, 150) grit as my tool work is good enough that I just take off some tear out and fuzz.

[Richard Madison]

That's a nice vase Bill. I think Bernie's suggestion of power sanding disc on an extension rod should work. Motor gently at first to avoid damaging the inside of the neck with some unexpected grabby motion.

[Bill Bulloch]

Thanks guys. I have the power sanding equipment, but didn't have an extension, so I cut a dowel to length, drilled a hole in the end to accommodate the sanding disc, which I glued into the hole. I attached this to my drill and went to work. The dowel broke off a couple of times, but it worked. It didn't do as good a job as I would have liked. There is some deep cutout that I couldn't get out, but the results is something I can live with.

[Richard Madison]

Bill, A while back I made a 6" extension from some 5/8" aluminum rod. Drilled a hole in one end just large enough for the sanding mandrel to fit, and cross drilled and tapped for a set screw to secure the mandrel. Might try something like that next time. Think I posted a picture here a month or three ago.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bill,

I have run into the same problem with a couple of mine. One thing I learned from some better turners than I. Buy some black acrylic paints and paint the inside black. It can hide some of the imperfections.

[Bill Bulloch]

Bill,

I have run into the same problem with a couple of mine. One thing I learned from some better turners than I. Buy some black acrylic paints and paint the inside black. It can hide some of the imperfections.

Now I like that idea. I might just try it. Thanks

[Steve Schlumpf]

Bill - nice vase! Any time you turn end grain you are going to have challenges getting a smooth surface when hollowing the inside bottom area. Even if you could get at the bottom easily - you would have a lot of work ahead of you to get it really smooth. Ken has the best idea of applying a dark stain or paint to the inside of the form. Just make sure that it has a flat sheen to it or it will highlight all the imperfections. DAMHIKT

Nice work! Looking forward to seeing the finished version!

[Reed Gray]

The best way I have found for removing that type of tear out is an Eliminator type tool, which is straight shaft and a carbide disc, or the Hunter tools. Most hollowing tools are scrapers, except when they are at a 45 or so degree angle where they do a fairly good shear cut. There are roughing cuts as well as finish cuts. Roughing cuts are with scraper tips flat, great for removing bulk. Finish cuts are with the cutter at a 45 degree angle, very slow for removing bulk, but great for clean touch up type cuts. A standard Oland type scraper tool at the 45 degree angle will work as well, and having one of the articulated arm type of hollowing tools can help get the bottom smoother as well. This can be practiced on scrap woods, end grain, where you aren't hollowing, just practicing that finish cut, and it is easy for you to see. Of course, some woods will just tear anyway.

robo hippy

[Cody Colston]

For an end-grain turning, I thought the inside bottom looked pretty good. LOL

I'll have to use that flat black paint idea.