Danger in overpowering bandsaw?

[Matthew Joe]

I've recently considered replacing my 3/4 hp motor on my Ridgid BS1402 bandsaw with a mammoth 3 hp motor. (Not because I need that much horsepower, but because I have that motor available).

I've pretty much already decided not to go with the upgrade at this time, because I don't think there is much chance that my 110v/15A circuit will be able to handle the motor, especially on startup (If the motor is truly 3 hp, I suspect I'll need at least a 110v/25A circuit, or 220v).

Still, maybe I'll have a chance to upgrade my wiring in the future and decide to move forward. Assuming that to be the case, I've read about others upgrading their bandsaw motors, and don't recall hearing about any safety concerns associated with doing so.

Is there anything in particular that I should consider from a safety perspective before upgrading my motor?

[Derrell W Sloan]

The most important thing safety wise is not so much the hp but the rpm. If you replace the motor make sure the one you replace it with has the same rpm.

[Danny Burns]

There are a lot better uses in the shop for a 3 hp motor.

What is the resaw on the Rigid? 6 inches?
That's 2 inches per horsepower!

I have a 2 hp in a 14 inch Delta, that has a 12 inch resaw, and that is plenty, have not been able to bog it down yet.
If does start to bog down, I know it's time to put a nice sharp blade on!
I run the 2 hp on 220 volts, since I like to see what I am cutting.:eek:
It gets kind of dark when the panel trips!:rolleyes:

http://www.woodturnerruss.com/Bandsaw-Using.html

http://www.woodturnerruss.com/Bandsaw-Tuning.html

[Matthew Joe]

There are a lot better uses in the shop for a 3 hp motor.

Well, I suppose it would make a hell of a chainsaw! :) (What a horrible suggestion in a thread about safety!)


The most important thing safety wise is not so much the hp but the rpm. If you replace the motor make sure the one you replace it with has the same rpm.

Yes, both motors are 1725 rpm.

[Pete Bradley]

It's massive overkill, but I can't think of a scenario where you'd be likely to break the machine with it. Just make sure the installation doesn't result in new hazards like exposed belts.

Pete

[Jeff Willard]

I have 3hp on a 14" Laguna :eek:. It's nice to know that I have plenty of "headroom". I can't see you getting by with 110V though. Laguna specs 220V/30A for my motor, even though the current draw is far less. If you have the motor, and want an unstoppable bandsaw though, there's nothing wrong with installing it.

[John McClanahan]

I doubt the 3 hp motor has a 110 volt option.

John

[Rick Fisher]

If you use the saw reasonably, it shouldn't be a problem. A 3ph motor likely wont run 115V, if it does, it will draw about 30 amps.. so its probably a 240V motor..

I upgraded my saw from a 3hp to a 5hp. The reason was simply that a 5hp motor isnt much more money than a 3hp.. In the end, it was irrelevant.. 3hp would have been more than ample..

Bandsaws are a bit different in that you have very good control of how hard you work them.. So unless you start resawing timbers, or install a power feeder, you should be okay..

[Tom Veatch]

Burned up the 1.5HP motor on my 16" Jet resawing maple logs from a tree a neighbor took down. Replaced it with a 3HP Baldour Industrial motor for about the same dollars as a 1.5HP replacement from Jet. Different frame size so I had to fabricate a motor mount and replace the drive pulley. Have not regretted the upgrade.

As far as safety is concerned, the only concern might be that where you might have stalled out the old motor, you won't this one. And if you do stall it, the loads on the blade and frame will be a little higher. But, it's somewhat surprising how small the additional loads are. The motor loads on the frame and blade are almost insignificant compared to the tension loads from a properly tensioned blade.

If you don't have a better use for the motor, there's no safety based reason I can think of to avoid doing it. The blade won't move any faster nor cut flesh and bone any more aggressively than would the stock motor. The possibility of breaking a blade with the more powerful motor might be marginally greater with the heavier motor. The danger of damage to the saw's components is also marginally greater, by a small margin.

[Bob Aquino]

As others said, a real 3hp motor won't run on 110. You will also need to upgrade the switching for it as well. Finally, consider that a Chinese made ridgid was never spec'd out for that much HP and little things like bearings, belt, drive pulleys, etc. probably won't last over the long haul assuming you can stress it with that much torque. Overall, a less than great idea. If you want a saw with that much HP, upgrade to a larger model. You can always keep the ridgid as you small blade saw too.

[Noah Katz]

I've never heard of a 110V 3 HP motor.

If it's single phase, it might start and then run fine.

To first order 1/2 voltage gives half the current and 1/4 the HP, so it gets you right back to 3/4 HP.

You might get more by the nature of induction motors, or it might just stall.

[Mike OMelia]

You can easily make a 30 amp, 220 volt circuit off the side of your breaker panel (assuming you have 2 open slots on either side of the bus, and your panel is in your shop). I did just that to run my 220 bandsaw and air compressor. Even if your motor can convert to lower voltage, its not a good idea. No serious upgrades are needed, just two 30 amp breakers (or is that 2 15 amp breakers??), some wire and a 220 receptical.

Mike

[Tom Veatch]

... No serious upgrades are needed, just two 30 amp breakers (or is that 2 15 amp breakers??), some wire and a 220 receptical.
Mike

One 30 amp double pole breaker. Do not use 2 separate 30 amp breakers. Not only is that a code violation, but is dangerous. If the breaker trips, you want both hot lines interrumpted, not just one.

(Even if two separate breakers could be used, it would have to be two 30 amp. Each hot wire carries the same amperage, it's not "additive".)

[Matthew Joe]

Thanks to all for the advice. I'll look into adding a 220v circuit, which I'm sure will be necessary should I ever go for the upgrade. My 200 amp breaker panel is on the back side of one of the workshop (garage) walls, but unfortunately I've already filled it to capacity. I already have one subpanel, but I'll explore adding a second. I like the idea of having my workshop subpanel accessible from the workshop.