Should I resharpen this blade?

[Matthew Joe]

I purchased my Ridgid TS3650 table saw used about a year ago, and it came with this blade. I'm pretty sure it's time for an upgrade, but I want to know whether this blade is worth resharpening. I could use it either as a backup TS blade or for my compound miter saw.

Sorry about the blurry pictures...I tried several times by my camera had a hard time focusing.

Three questions:
1. Can anyone identify the manufacturer or model of this blade?

2. Is it worth resharpening?

3. What is the best place in metro-Atlanta area to get blades resharpened (preferably north of Atlanta)?

Thanks in advance!

[Chris Kennedy]

I'm not an expert, but I would say go ahead and have it sharpened. I would also look at a new blade (you'll want one while the other is getting sharpened). I always like to have a sharpened blade in waiting, and I have a couple of cheaper blades available to cut junk lumber when I need to. Can't help you with a sharpener.

As for a new blade, you'll get hordes of advice. I would recommend Freud Diablos for a good, not hideously expensive blade.

Cheers,

Chris

[Jim Pritchett]

Matt,
I can't help with the ID of the blade, but I just had 2 Freud blades resharpened by a Freud authorized sharpening service in Dalton, Ga. I dropped them off @ Kentec/ Stone Mountain Power Tool store in Lilburn. The sharpening service picks up on Tues. and delivers the following Tues.
The total cost for a Premier Fusion blade, a Glue line rip blade and 2-12 inch Dewalt planer knives was $35. The sharpening was spot on and both delivered glue-up ready cuts. Hope this helps. Jim

[Darius Ferlas]

1. Can anyone identify the manufacturer or model of this blade?
It's likely a Ridgid blade. Not their best. They have their own line of blades.
When I bought my TS3650 I replaced the blade with Ridgids's 50 Tooth Combination Saw Blade (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhu/R-100030896/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) and, for the price, I have been very happy with the performance and quality of cut.

[Harold Shay]

Sorry can't help with the make. probably a entry level for Ridged. I would get a good wwII and then if (and if will sooner or later) something happens with your blade in the middle of a project you have a back up. As you can see it may take a week to get you blade back.
Harold

[Chris Kennedy]

It's likely a Ridgid blade. Not their best. They have their own line of blades.
When I bought my TS3650 I replaced the blade with Ridgids's 50 Tooth Combination Saw Blade (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhu/R-100030896/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) and, for the price, I have been very happy with the performance and quality of cut.

I can't speak to the quality of Ridgid blades, but I saw recently that at least some Ridgid's are apparently manufactured by Freud. See this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=120294

Cheers.

Chris

[scott spencer]

Not sure who made it, but it's far from a premium blade....it's most likely the stock Ridgid blade, an Oldham construction, Vermont American, B&D Piranha basic stamped steel type with sloppy brazing and soft carbide. Unless you already have a good blade budget going, I wouldn't bother sharpening the old one. Instead, I'd sink the cost of resharpening the old one into buying a higher quality new blade, and just use the old blade for junk wood...give it a little cleaning though.

Your splitter is made for thin kerf, and your motor will have an easier time spinning a thin kerf as long as you buy a good one.

[Phil Thien]

My general rule of thumb: If the blade plate doesn't have any laser-cut slots in it, I won't waste money getting it sharpened.

My 2nd rule of thumb: If you have to ship a blade out to get it sharpened (for example, to Scott Whittig [sp?] here), then wait until you have 2-3 blades so you can amortize the shipping a little.

[Pat O'malley]

I have the same saw and blade which is in a blade storage box. It's the stock Ridgid blade that came with the saw. Pat

[kenneth kayser]

Have you cleaned it before deciding to re-sharpen?

Re-sharpening cheap blades is never advisable. I had my my Forrest woodworker II, re-sharpened by Forrest. With shipping both ways I paid $5 less than what I could have gotten a new one on eBay.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

My .02 would be to try finding a local blade sharpener, ask what is the per tooth charge. If he's (or she) cheap, try him out, just to see if he can sharpen the good blade that you buy.

Buy a "good" blade. Lots of choices. The >50 buck Freuds are good, I like the Forrest WWII, but many WWII bashers out there. Expensive blade. I also have 3 Freuds. I'd personally stay away from cheap < 50 buck blades. The finish on the good blades is worth the investment IMO. Yeah you can buy an Oldham 3 for 50 buck blade, but the time wasted planing/jointing/sanding gets real old real fast. Any good blade gets you a nice cut. You can do searches for blade choices, but you'll get nowhere.:). Too many personal preferences.

Oh yeah, you can keep that old blade for recycled lumber, when you don't want to risk a good blade.

[Matthew Joe]

Thanks for all of the great advice. I think I'll keep the blade (without resharpening) as a backup for exterior construction projects, gummy pine stock, and the like. I'll purchase a decent blade in the near future.

I'm sold on high quality blades after having purchased my first Timberwolf bandsaw resaw blade just yesterday--the difference in the quality of the workpiece and enjoyability of the experience is astounding!

[Danny Burns]

I read that the best approach is to have 2 top cutting combo blades, and swap them out when they start to get dull.
That way you always have a good clean cut, be it a rip or crosscut, and the saw is not being forced to have to 'bite' an uphill battle with a dull blade.
I have seen some nice wall clocks made out of old blades!

[Don Morris]

Didn't see anyone comment about the use of his TS blade on his compound miter saw. Haven't done it myself because from what I've read the Hook angle is different and although the arbor size is the same and it can be done...the efficiency of a TS blade placed on a compound miter saw would drop significantly. The reverse is also true. A recent thread on this site directed you to one of the blade companies that described why they make the Hook angles different between TS and miter saws...they're significant because of the speed differences generated between the two types of machines.

But I wouldn't sharpen the blade shown, I'd go for a better blade. Keeping a backup is expensive, but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet if you can't afford wasted shop time.