How do I grind a standard bowl gouge?

[mike holden]

Folks, I can find lots of directions for the swept-back, irish grind, etc gouges.
I cannot find directions for the standard bowl gouge.

I have the woodcraft 8 inch grinder and the oneway grinding jig, including the vari-grind (old style). So you know what I have to work with, although I am not averse to grinding by hand or an additional accessory.

Any suggestions? or even better, step-by-step directions?

Thanks,
Mike

[Tom Lewis]

I asked that question myself awhile back. Put the handle end in the v-arm and the cutting end of the bowl gouge on the grinding wheel. Do not use the vari-grind jig.
In this case a picture would be better, but I hope my explanation is clear enough.

[Chris Stolicky]

I believe you can just use the V arm. If you have the dvd that came with the wolverine there is a demonstration. If not, you can download the videos from the oneway site:

http://www.oneway.ca/multi-media/wolverine_videos.htm

The first video, titled "Wolverine Grinding Jig" may answer your question.

Good luck.

[Bernie Weishapl]

If you are talking about a conventional grind I just use the V of the arm. I sit the gouge in there then pull it in or out to make sure I have the angle right. I grind mine just like a spindle roughing gouge. I use a black magic marker to see where I am cutting.

[Ryan Baker]

If it really is a straight-across grind, you can do it without the vari-grind as mentioned above. Put the gouge in the jig with the grinder off and rotate it to make sure you are following the bevel all the way. It probably isn't really straight across, but just not as swept-back as a typical Irish-type grind. To match that, put the gouge in your vari-grind and adjust the distance from the grinder wheel to match the bevel. Rotate it to the wing and check the bevel again. Adjust the vari-grind angle as necessary, then go back to repeat the above steps until you again are matching the bevel all the way around. Color the bevel with a marker if it helps.

Of course, that assumes you WANT to keep it the way it currently is. You can change the grind however you prefer.

[ROY DICK]

Yep what Bernnie said.

Roy

[Wally Dickerman]

Mike, there really isn't a standard bowl gouge grind. You mentioned some of the grinds in use. There is also the fingernail grind and the square across grind and several others.

In the early days of the bowl gouge (the first to hit the USA was about 1980) they all came ground straight across and with a 12 inch handle. I still have what's left of my first Sorby, probably acquired about 1982 or 83.

The straight across grind is a bit difficult to use and isn't nearly as versatile as the other grinds.

The grind that you choose to use is strictly a personal choice. My own choice is a modified side grind. I also use a fingernail grind. These are both easy to grind using your Vari grind and following the written instructions provided by Oneway.

Wally

[Richard Madison]

Mike, If you mean what I call a straight, conical grind, it is simple. I use it on one spindle gouge and one Sorby bowl gouge, both shown in the picture (different grind angles). The Sorby is my general purpose gouge, most often used, so it is handy to leave it's V pivot block in place. Just takes a moment to freshen the edge. Kind of a sorry picture but maybe you get the idea.

[Bob Hamilton]

One point about using the V arm is that as you increase the bevel angle the gouge is riding further down the wheel. If you try for a really steep bevel for cutting tight interior curves it is possible that the gouge will be riding so far down the wheel that it can grab and slam down past center into the jig arm, doing absolutely no good at all to the wheel, the gouge, or any fingers that happen to be in the way. DAMHIKT.... :(

Bob

[mike holden]

Thanks everyone for the input.

I have both Sorby 1/2inch bowl gouges, the standard one has a slight setback to the wings - which is what set off the original question.

I bought both as I have seen videos where the standard grind is needed to finish the bottom of the bowl.

I will grind the standard straight across for now, using the v-arm.

Hopefully I can show a bowl soon, I have another project that needs completing first though (flatwork).

Thanks again,
Mike

[Richard Madison]

Good point by Bob about making sure your V arm is securely clamped in place and can't slide back. I think the new versions have a "safety" doodad to make sure the arm does not move. There was a thread about it a while back. Mine (angle iron) never moves, as it is solidly screwed to the table.

[Wally Dickerman]

Thanks everyone for the input.

I have both Sorby 1/2inch bowl gouges, the standard one has a slight setback to the wings - which is what set off the original question.

I bought both as I have seen videos where the standard grind is needed to finish the bottom of the bowl.

I will grind the standard straight across for now, using the v-arm.

Hopefully I can show a bowl soon, I have another project that needs completing first though (flatwork).

Thanks again,
Mike

Mike, do yourself a favor and don't grind your gouge straight across. That's the way just about everybody did it 25 years ago but almost nobody does now. Those sharp corners will get you in trouble, especially inside a bowl. The ability to shear scrape with a fingernail or side ground gouge is a real plus.

Wally

[mike holden]

Wally,
then how do you get to the bottom of the bowl?
That was the stated need of the two bowl gouges per the videos I have seen.
Mike