Evil Forrest WWII

[Igor Petrenko]

Got upgraded my cheap ryobi blade with WWII and now I am afraid of my table saw. Quality of cut is outstanding. Before to make glue cut I had to run board through planer like 2-4 times removing 1/16-1/8 in. Now everything needed is couple of passes with sandpaper.
But now is the problem: after every cross cut that produces small piece of wood at the right side of blade I have to stop table saw. Removing that piece became very very dangerous. If I just ignore it and cross cutting other piece that first one is getting sucked in into blade and launched full speed. Even if I try to remove it with some stick if it touches the blade it getting launched sometimes.
Is this a problem with blade alignement? It produces no burns, and with old crapy blade I never had anything like this.

[Joe Scharle]

May not be a problem since a sharp blade along the new blade geometry may be creating more draft. If your blade is truly square to the miter gauge, then you should install a zero clearance insert when making 90 deg cuts, to keep small pieces from being sucked into the opening.

[Brian Kent]

Igor,

I do not know the source of the problem, but the exact same happened to me.

My cheapest-line Ryobi was upgraded with a WWII fine kerf that cost more than the saw. The cut was nice but I had two major kickbacks with the new blade. I think my old blade was acting more like a grinder and never grabbed anything. The new blade interacted with the natural flex of the weak Ryobi and launched into my fingers once and my stomach a second time. The second time was the day I decided to turn in my Ryobi and get a sturdy cabinet saw.

I did have a zero-clearance insert that kept the tiny pieces from getting sucked in and launching. I did not have a splitter, which allowed he big pieces to hit the back of the blade and launch.

Splitter and zero clearance insert now, before any more cuts. Upgraded saw when affordable.


Brian

[Rick Dennington]

Igor: Two things could be happening if you have the zero clearance insert:
(1) Your saw may be a little underpowered(is it a benchtop, or a cabinet?)
(2) The blade may be out of allignment with the miter slot and the fence. You could possibly be getting some "heeling" at the back of the blade when you finish the cut. A few factors involved as to why it's doing this.
(3) Make sure your arbor is long enough to get a good seat with the bushing and nut. Just my two cents. Good luck. Rick.

[Cody Colston]

Igor,

I think the problem is that you now have a very sharp blade that perhaps creates a bit of a vacuum as it's spinning. A zero clearance insert may help but the best solution is simply to stop the saw and remove the offcut.

I run a WWII also and the worst kickback I ever suffered was when I had crosscut a piece of stock with the miter gauge and attempted to remove the offcut from the table top with the saw still running.

I was using my pushstick to sweep the piece clear of the blade but instead accidently nudged it into the spinning blade. I still have a couple of parallel scars on the right side of my abdomen where the edges of the 3/4" board broke the skin when that offcut piece hit me.

A riving knife perhaps would have prevented the incident but, no matter. I stop the saw to remove crosscut pieces now.

[Rye Crane]

Igor,

Aigner safety products sells a "Deflector" for 46.00. All it is, is a triangular
shaped piece of wood that has a rare earth magnet in two spots recessed into the bottom of the "deflector" and a handle. The deflector is placed about 40mm from the front of the blade and with the angled side adjacient/flush to the blade. Any cutoff's are directed away from the spinning wheel of death and will just line up safely until you are finished and can remove them.
If you have the Aigner catalogue you can view it on page 102/103 if not
just get a board about 18" long and 4 inches wide, cut a taper on one end and insert magnets/handle and you are ready to go.

A zero clearence insert is always good to use, it helps keep the body parts on the top of the saw for easy collection.

Good Luck,
Rye Crane

[Bruce Wrenn]

The WWII (and most 40 tooth GP blades) have a 20 degree positive hook angle. This makes them slightly aggressive with your stock. While a ZCI will help, only when you get cut off past back side of the blade will problem go away. A splitter will go a long way to help. A blast of air from air hose will also send cut offs scooting

[glenn bradley]

Before to make glue cut I had to run board through planer like 2-4 times removing 1/16-1/8 in.

Hey, I used to own that saw :D. I think a zero clearance insert (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=69206&d=1186000086)as recommended by others will help.

[Don Morris]

Another vote for: ZCI, splitter, and stop blade to remove anything. I love my WWII and I respect it, that's why I have and do all of the above.

[scott spencer]

You should always have a strong respect for your TS, but It's hard for me to understand how the WWII could be the cause of the ill effects you describe. What you describe sounds like typical risks of using any TS with nearly any blade....off cuts need to be cleared or they can catch the back of the blade, and its dangerous to reach in with your hands with the blade spinning. Not sure why or how the WWII would be much different in that regard than any normal TS blade, including your cheap Ryobi blade.

Use a splitter when possible, clear the off cuts with air pressure, stick, shutting the saw down, keep your miter gauge and fence perfectly aligned, use a ZCI, etc. All the usual general good saw practices apply to the WWII as any blade.