How to attach formica to a ply base?

[Casey Carr]

I've got a friend that broke his table in his motorhome and he asked me if I could fix it. I built my router table with formica on both sides using contact cement with less than stellar results. I may not have clamped it sufficiently, but it just seemed like the edges weren't going to stick, with or without force. I applied contact cement to both the plywood substrate and the formica, then put dowels on the plywood, put the formica on the dowels, and slid the dowels out one by one. Then I put a piece of wood that was slightly bigger than the table and then just stacked a whole bunch of weight on it. One side came out all right, but even that side still didn't stick real well on the edges. Is it possible I didn't get it stuck together quickly enough?

I don't want the same thing to happen on this guy's table. Is there an easier/better method to applying this? Thanks for any help!

Casey

[Josiah Bartlett]

The proper method for attaching formica is to use contact cement and then roll it out from the center with a roller and then trim the edges. Otherwise you get air bubbles that keep it from sticking evenly.

[johnny means]

Are you using enough adhesive? Are you letting it dry thoroughly before sticking your pieces? I have made, literally, miles of laminate counter tops and have never had need for clamps. When you stick the pieces together they should hold fast as soon as the covered surfaces make contact (hence the name, other wise it's just smelly glue). Are you keeping dust off the surfaces? Are you letting it dry to long? I find that anything over a half an hour starts to loose its "contactiness".

[James Hart]

Like Johnny said, no clamps.

Let the glue set up until it's tacky but no longer sticks to your finger. Pay attention to the temperature range on the can.

Pull out the middle dowel first. Take a block of wood and a hammer and smack it good right in the center, then move out toward the edges, still in the center of the board. If you use dowels that are thick, be careful that you not banging the block too close to a dowel or you'll crack the formica.

Take out a dowel at a time, smacking away from the middle out toward the edges. Once you have all the dowels out, you can roll it with a laminate roller or even a bread roller.

[Casey Carr]

All right, sounds like I had the right idea. May not have executed properly, but the right idea. It very easily could have been too hot, as my garage can hit 120+ in the summer, but I don't remember what time of year I did the table in. May not have the working time when it's that hot. I also wondered if I used too much?? Is that possible? I'll check some out this weekend, see what the label says about working time. Might have to do it in the house.Thanks!

[Tom Veatch]

Read and comply with the instructions is the best advice I can give you. Pay particular attention to the part that talks about the substrate absorbing the adhesive. I've, on occasion, had to lay down a second coat of adhesive before applying the laminate. By the way, I prefer the gel type over the liquid. Never used any but the "Weldwood" brand so can't comment on any other product.

All of my shop furniture is Formica type laminate on plywood or mdf and there's never been a problem with a lack of adhesion. And that's the only "Formica" work experience I have.

[Dan Mitchell]

The proper method for attaching formica is to use contact cement and then roll it out from the center with a roller and then trim the edges. Otherwise you get air bubbles that keep it from sticking evenly.

+1. Don't forget the roller, the hard rubber kind made for this, and add a 2nd coat of cement if the substrate absorbs too much of the 1st.

Dan

[Jason White]

You need to roll the laminate on with a J-roller. Also make sure to apply contact adhesive to both sides (the substrate and the laminate) and don't let them touch each other until the contact cement is dry/tacky to the touch.

Jason


I've got a friend that broke his table in his motorhome and he asked me if I could fix it. I built my router table with formica on both sides using contact cement with less than stellar results. I may not have clamped it sufficiently, but it just seemed like the edges weren't going to stick, with or without force. I applied contact cement to both the plywood substrate and the formica, then put dowels on the plywood, put the formica on the dowels, and slid the dowels out one by one. Then I put a piece of wood that was slightly bigger than the table and then just stacked a whole bunch of weight on it. One side came out all right, but even that side still didn't stick real well on the edges. Is it possible I didn't get it stuck together quickly enough?

I don't want the same thing to happen on this guy's table. Is there an easier/better method to applying this? Thanks for any help!

Casey

[ROY DICK]

I agree. 2 coats on substrate, and a j-roller.
I have heard but never tried to remove formica, but some use a heat gun, blow dryer, or an iron with a towel between the formica and iron.
Not an expert on this, just food for thought maybe.

Roy

[John Pratt]

I have used the Weldwood gel on occassion, but prefer the Wilsonart 500. It is a professional grade product and a little thicker than the gels (IMO). A gallon lasts half as long as the Weldwood, but when this stuff sticks, man it sticks. No second chances with this stuff.

[Jim O'Dell]

You might also check the type of contact cement you are using. I have heard of some problems with the water based glues. I've only used the solvent based glues and I've had no problems. I haven't invested in a J-roller yet, but have an 18" piece of 2X4 covered with felt that I use to push with using the same method of dowels or venetian blinds pulled out one and press the laminate into the glue. Start in the middle and work to the ends. Jim.

[Gary Chester]

And don't forget about ventilation!!!

[Tom Hargrove]

Casey -

I have done more laminate work than I ever wanted to. I learned how from my brother and a friend, both of whom have worked in laminate shops. Here are some things I learned.

The adhesive that you can buy in a retail store is not as good as the stuff available to the pros that is applied with a gun or other applicator. Solvent based adhesive generally works better than water based. Solvent based adhesive gives off some pretty nasty fumes, so good ventilation is necessary.

Use fresh adhesive, and follow the directions on the can. Different brands are different brands, and are applied differently.

Don't be stingy with the adhesive. Cover the entire surface with adhesive. People generally begin application in the center and work toward the edges. When they get to the edges, they try to "stretch" the material they have left. This can leave the edges starved for adhesive.

For small jobs, I trowel the adhesive on with a scrap of laminate. A brush works, but doesn't apply a heavy enough coat. For bigger jobs, I use a disposable roller and tray. I always put two coats of adhesive on the substrate, whether using particle board or plywood. ALWAYS.

A J-Roller works better than a 2x4 or any other tool that I know of. A J-Roller costs $10-$15. You can probably find one where the laminate is sold or in the flooring section of the big box home stores.

When adhering the laminate and substrate, start in the middle and work toward the outside. When rolling, start in the middle and work toward the outside.

Freshly cut high pressure laminate has very sharp edges, and will slice your fingers, hands and other exposed flesh. Similar to a paper cut, but worse.

[Steve Clardy]

Like Johnny said, no clamps.

Let the glue set up until it's tacky but no longer sticks to your finger. Pay attention to the temperature range on the can.

Pull out the middle dowel first. Take a block of wood and a hammer and smack it good right in the center, then move out toward the edges, still in the center of the board. If you use dowels that are thick, be careful that you not banging the block too close to a dowel or you'll crack the formica.

Take out a dowel at a time, smacking away from the middle out toward the edges. Once you have all the dowels out, you can roll it with a laminate roller or even a bread roller.

+1 on the block of wood and mallet.

I've just about quit using a J-roller.

[Casey Carr]

Awesome! Thanks guys! I'll give it a go.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If you aren't doing a large area, spray cans of adhesive are really nice. No brush, and no roller. I have a special roller that I use with laminate adhesive. When it dries "hard,", I store it in a "bread bag" that is twist tied shut. This keeps dust and dirt off it. The roller came from my laminate supplier.

[Danny Thompson]

J-roller is the answer. It concentrates significant force in a very small area.