Forrest Woodwoker II?

[John Kali]

Is there a significant difference between the 40 tooth and the 30 tooth blades? Also if it matters, It will be a 12 inch blade. I'm going to be using it as an all around blade, but will be doing a lot of ripping (mainly purple heart, walnut, and hard maple) most will be 4/4 lumber, but may cut some 6/4 as well. If there are any other better blades available, recommendations would help too. Thanks in advance, John K

[Kyle Iwamoto]

If you will be doing a lot of ripping I would go with the lower tooth count. BUT, I personally would get a ripping blade. It's really not that hard to swap out a blade. The WWII are combo blades, I would rip with a dedicated rip blade, especially something as hard as purpleheart. Save your 100 buck blade.

Just my .02.

[Matt Stiegler]

Here's (http://www.toolmarts.com/frd_lm72r012.html) a dedicated rip blade folks seem to like a lot, the Freud glue line rip blade, 12" version. (Have never dealt with that retailer, just showing you the blade).

[John Kali]

Here's (http://www.toolmarts.com/frd_lm72r012.html) a dedicated rip blade folks seem to like a lot, the Freud glue line rip blade, 12" version. (Have never dealt with that retailer, just showing you the blade).

Thanks, does Freud make a 12 inch blade with a 5/8 arbor? I didn't see one on that site.

[Jeff Monson]

I have a 40T wwII and would not part with it, I've tried several Freud blades and I feel the forrest has outlasted and outperformed them all. It rips well and crosscuts equally well, very very impressed with forrest blades.

[Matt Stiegler]

Thanks, does Freud make a 12 inch blade with a 5/8 arbor? I didn't see one on that site.

I just checked the Freud website, it looks like their 12" blades are all 1" arbor (at least the two rip blades I checked).

[John Kali]

Perhaps, I will just have to find a 5/8 bushing to use since there aren't many 12 inch blades that come with a 5/8 arbor.

[John Harden]

I would think that a 30 tooth blade that is 12", IS a ripping blade. For a combo, you'd probably want a 50 tooth blade.

I've always gotten terric results from my Forrest blades, so I highly recommend them.

Regards,

John

[John Kali]

I would think that a 30 tooth blade that is 12", IS a ripping blade. For a combo, you'd probably want a 50 tooth blade.

I've always gotten terric results from my Forrest blades, so I highly recommend them.

Regards,

John

Precisely my thoughts, which was why I originally asked if there was much difference between the 30 tooth blade, and the 40 tooth blade. I think 'm just going to get the 30 tooth blade, and call it a day.

Any other thoughts on this subject before I fork over 100 bucks?

[scott spencer]

John - I've had the 10" versions of the 30T WWII and the 40T WWII. It's hard to tell the cuts apart between the two, but the 30T definitely ripped more efficiently and was easier on my saw. The 40T is a little better on crosscuts and ply, but the 30T was acceptable at those tasks for most situations. I've always thought that the 30T WWII really fills a niche that few blades do...it's a great general purpose blade for folks who need a clean rip cut, and or have underpowered saws. When I had a smaller saw, the 30T was usually a better choice for general purpose work than my 40T.

My Epinions review (http://www.epinions.com/review/Forrest_WW10307100_Woodworker_Ii_10_30_Tooth_5_8_A rbor_3_32_Kerf_Circular_Saw_Blade/content_411771899524)

[kenneth kayser]

Why not call Forrest and ask them?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I know there are a lot of WWII bashers out there, and I understand that. I have the Freud glue line rip (10" not 12") and the WWII 40T. The WWII does a "better" job than the Freud, but, as I said before, if you can, get a rip and the combo. Just to save your 100 buck blade. If you only get 1, I'd go with the 40, since it theoretically gives you a better cut, and it rips just fine. They both are combo blades. You get a joint-free edge, no need to sand. YMMV.
Oh, the glue line rip ain't exactly cheap. If you're ripping and jointing, you can get a 40 buck Freud 27T ripping blade. Well, maybe not for a 12" saw.

Just more of my .02.

[Kent A Bathurst]

John - I've had the 10" versions of the 30T WWII and the 40T WWII. It's hard to tell the cuts apart between the two, but the 30T definitely ripped more efficiently and was easier on my saw. The 40T is a little better on crosscuts and ply, but the 30T was acceptable at those tasks for most situations. I've always thought that the 30T WWII really fills a niche that few blades do...it's a great general purpose blade for folks who need a clean rip cut, and or have underpowered saws. When I had a smaller saw, the 30T was usually a better choice for general purpose work than my 40T.

My Epinions review (http://www.epinions.com/review/Forrest_WW10307100_Woodworker_Ii_10_30_Tooth_5_8_A rbor_3_32_Kerf_Circular_Saw_Blade/content_411771899524)

Ditto. I have a 40t WWII and a 30t (10"). 40t is everyday blade. I swap out to 30t to rip 5/4 & up, especially hard maple, etc. It makes a noticeable difference for me in ease of cut.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Perhaps, I will just have to find a 5/8 bushing to use since there aren't many 12 inch blades that come with a 5/8 arbor.Local DeWalt service center here stocks them. DeWalt's 12 miter saws use a 5/8 arbor, with a 5/8 X 1 bushing. They are about $2 each. Most any blade vendor or sharpening service has them or can get them.

[Tom Esh]

I have both and use the 30-tooth about 90% of the time. IMO it's more of a do-all than the 40T. Does a better job ripping and the x-cut is nearly as fine as the 40T. I do a lot with cherry, which burns easily, and with the 40T I find it difficult to rip anything more than 3/4 without burning.

[John Harden]

Folks, let's not forget he's talking about a 12" blade, not a 10" one.

Regards,

John

[John Kali]

Thanks everyone, I just purchased the 30t blade. If I have to sand before gluing, its totally OK! I'm sure that I will be dying to find excuses to use the drum sander that is on its way as I type :D

[Leigh Betsch]

I doubt you'll be doing any edge sanding. Make sure your saw is set up correctly and the WWII should give you a fine cut. My 12" 40T WWII on a MiniMax ST4 slider puts a slight burnish on the edge, almost a polished edge. My Freud blades cut very good, with out blade tracks but they don't give the burnished edge.
I tuned up my 10" Delta/Rockwell tilting arbor saw last week, but I still can't get rid of the blade tracks with my Freud blades, I haven't tried my 10" WWIIs on the Delta yet. The blade tracks are very very slight but still there. I have the rip fence angling away from the blade .002 per 10 inches. I stoned down the arbor flange to .0005 run out but the face of the blade still has .004 run out on the Delta. The same blade has about .001 run out on the MM.
My conclusion is that a premium blade on a premium saw will give a fantastic finish, the same blade on a not so good saw will be very good but not quite a perfect finish. And a premium blade on a out of tune saw is a waste of good money.

[scott spencer]

Thanks everyone, I just purchased the 30t blade. If I have to sand before gluing, its totally OK! I'm sure that I will be dying to find excuses to use the drum sander that is on its way as I type :D

John - You should get "glue" ready edges with the 30T, but not even a good 80T blade will give a "finish" ready edge....once you apply a stain, the saw marks that seemed invisible jump right out, so you're likely to need to sand before finishing no matter what blade you get....or better yet, give the exposed edges a light swipe with a sharp hand plane.

[Rod Sheridan]

Your local industrial saw supplier can supply you with a 12" rip blade with the correct arbour hole, they'll put whatever size hole you want in it, including holes for arbour pins if your saw has those.

In addition, you'll get an industrial blade without the retail markup.

Regards, Rod.

[John Kali]

Got the blade yesterday, did a few cuts and so far I'm blown away at how fast and cleanly it cuts through the stock I've been feeding it! I'm sold!