Are rabbeting bits necessary for router tables?

[Michael Gramm]

If using a router table, is there any point in purchasing and using a rabbeting bit? Or will a regular straight bit do the job just fine?

I would think the straight bit should work well, but I wanted to double check.

[Jay Jeffery]

Having the bearing makes set up much easier, and it is more forgiving if the fence isn't perfectly aligned or there is a gap. Additionally, a typical rabbeting bit has a larger diameter than a straight bit, making for smoother rabbets.

[sean m. titmas]

a rabbet bit will work within a few inches of the panel edge and must be positioned on the edge of the stock whereas a straight bit, with a guide, can run a rabbet anywhere across the field of the panel. the straight bit is also capable of making a stopped dado much easier than a dado bit.

for use on a table i would buy the straight bit because of the many other profiles that it is capable of producing.

[Rod Sheridan]

a rabbet bit will work within a few inches of the panel edge and must be positioned on the edge of the stock whereas a straight bit, with a guide, can run a rabbet anywhere across the field of the panel. the straight bit is also capable of making a stopped dado much easier than a dado bit.

for use on a table i would buy the straight bit because of the many other profiles that it is capable of producing.

Sean, isn't a rebate only on the edge of a work piece?

Regards, Rod.

[glenn bradley]

Think about putting a rabbet on a curve or around the inside of a box . . . hmmmmmm.

[Jason Beam]

Ahem ... yeah - what Glenn said. We were typing at the same time :P :P :P

[Rod Sheridan]

Think about putting a rabbet on a curve or around the inside of a box . . . hmmmmmm.

If it's at the edge of the piece, it's a rebate.

If it is not on the edge, it's a groove if it runs with the grain, a dado if it runs across the grain (they have three sides as opposed to a rebate which has two sides).

regards, Rod.

[Jason Beam]

If it's at the edge of the piece, it's a rebate.

If it is not on the edge, it's a groove if it runs with the grain, a dado if it runs across the grain (they have three sides as opposed to a rebate which has two sides).

regards, Rod.

Yep, agreed. But I think Glenn was talking about the rabbet that would be used to make up the lip on a box - say - for a lid to recess into, or for the back of a bookcase to be recessed into. Those would still be rabbets. :)

[Joe Scharle]

As Glenn pointed out, sometimes you have to cut a rebate (rabbet) from the inside. It would be difficult without a bearing. Two large pieces of glass went into this.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/194/TS_RT_001.JPG

[Michael Gramm]

So, other than a few very specific exceptions, it's as I suspected - and a straight bit is a perfectly suitable replacement, when used on a router table.

Thanks, everyone!

[Peter Quinn]

So, other than a few very specific exceptions, it's as I suspected - and a straight bit is a perfectly suitable replacement, when used on a router table.

Thanks, everyone!

Well, not exactly IME. The very few exceptions idea really depends on what you are making. Assuming that the router table is the best way to do every thing would be a mistake. For instance trying to maneuver sides for a tall cabinet with rabbited backs can get a little dicey. And trying to make a rabbit deeper than the bit in questions diameter can leave little steps which is annoying. Further most rabbit bits have a strong shear angle which helps to control tear out, so they have that advantage over straight bits but not spiral carbide. And as noted earlier trying to set a straight bit to a specific depth of cut without the use of a bearing can be quite challenging. Oh, and that curved work issue; trying to do rabbits in curved work without a bearing is nearly impossible.

[sean m. titmas]

Sean, isn't a rebate only on the edge of a work piece?

Regards, Rod.
i guess i meant to say that a straight bit will run a rabet at the edge of the panel and can also run a dado in the field. two different cuts with the same bit.

[Myk Rian]

Rebate, rabbet, schmabbet. Doesn't matter. Use the straight bit. I have several rabbeting bits. Rarely use them, if I ever have at all.

[Rob Young]

Rebate, rabbet, schmabbet. Doesn't matter. Use the straight bit. I have several rabbeting bits. Rarely use them, if I ever have at all.

I shall now call it a schmabbetting bit. :cool:

[Mike Henderson]

You can use a straight bit to make rabbets, but router bits don't cost that much and I like the security of the bearing when making certain cuts. For a "captured" cut, like a dado, I often use a template and a bit with a top bearing (I do this with a hand held router, not on a table).

Mike

[Michael Gramm]

I understand. Thanks for the additional feedback, everyone.

And I must remember to call it a "schmabbetting bit" from now on as well. :)

[Greg Hines, MD]

One of the places that I use a rabbeting bit in a router table is routing the edge of a zero clearance insert for my table saw. You would have a very difficult time doing that without a rabbeting bit.

Woodcraft sells theirs for $5 from time to time. Cost should not be an issue.

Doc

[Myk Rian]

I shall now call it a schmabbetting bit. :cool:
I like that. :)