does this count as neandering

[dan sherman]

I'm making some shoe racks for my significant other, that uses slip joints to hold the boards together. She says it's my fault that she has so many shoes, but that's a story for another day.


step one: glue the joint together
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=128008&stc=1&d=1253081727


step two: plane the excess tenon down. It took me a few tries to figure out how to plane the end grain without getting tear out (I think I should have taken another swipe or two on this particular joint).
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=128009&stc=1&d=1253081727


step three: Sand the joint smooth
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=128010&stc=1&d=1253081727



So does this count? :D

[David Gendron]

Sure it counts... As long as all the steps are done with hand tools and no battery or corde!!
Nice joint! to make it easy to plane end graine, you can dampen it with alcohol or mineral spirit... and then to prevent tear out, beveled the exit edge!

[dan sherman]

Sure it counts... As long as all the steps are done with hand tools and no battery or corde!!


Well I cheated a little then because, I used my table saw tenoning jig to make the mortise and tenon because I had 24 of them to make. I've learned 2 things from this project, cutting a tenon an 1/8" longer is to much, and I want a shoulder plane :D (fitting a tenon with sandpaper is no fun).

[Jon Toebbe]

fitting a tenon with sandpaper is no fun
No it is not. :) If you've got a steady hand, a paring chisel works pretty well. I've also been eyeing one of those Shinto rasps they carry at Rockler for ~$20. Cheaper than a shoulder plane, for sure. Of course, far be it from me to discourage you from getting a shoulder plane... I want one, too. I just don't need it right now. ;)

Nice work on the trimming, btw. Everything looks neat and clean. Be sure to post some pics of the finished project, too!

[Sean Hughto]

When you've got something sticking up this high, a Kugihiki Saw (japanese flush cut) will speed this process. Cut it off, and then two swipes with the plane, and you're set.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50663&cat=1,42884

[harry strasil]

FWIW, that type joint is called a Bridal Joint.

[dan sherman]

FWIW, that type joint is called a Bridal Joint.

Interesting, I have not heard of that one before. All my books call it a slip joint or an open mortise and tenon.

[Scott Pearson]

No it is not. :) If you've got a steady hand, a paring chisel works pretty well. I've also been eyeing one of those Shinto rasps they carry at Rockler for ~$20. Cheaper than a shoulder plane, for sure. Of course, far be it from me to discourage you from getting a shoulder plane... I want one, too. I just don't need it right now. ;)

Nice work on the trimming, btw. Everything looks neat and clean. Be sure to post some pics of the finished project, too!


I also prefer rasps to a shoulder plane to fine tune tenons, I would also suggest that you look into a float. Like the shinto rasp they have no teeth on the side to mess up the shoulder of the tenon. Check out Lie Nielsen under the joinery floats area of the web site.

Scott

[dan sherman]

I would also suggest that you look into a float. Like the shinto rasp they have no teeth on the side to mess up the shoulder of the tenon. Check out Lie Nielsen under the joinery floats area of the web site.

I played in the shop during lunch today, and I think I found a way to thin tenon cheeks that doesn't require me to purchase new tools. I took a swipe or two across the cheek with my block plane. I then went back and made a paring cut with a chisel to clean up what the block plane couldn't reach (1/8" or so).

[Rob Young]

FWIW, that type joint is called a Bridal Joint.

+1 for Harry...

Here are a couple of pretty good pictures of the two basic variations, corner and "T":

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridle_joint

[dan sherman]

+1 for Harry...

Here are a couple of pretty good pictures of the two basic variations, corner and "T":

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridle_joint


This is from my book.
http://books.google.com/books?id=30qEhw6QirEC&pg=PA56&lpg=PA56&dq=slip+joint+open+tenon&source=bl&ots=nJY5m0cngc&sig=wAEactOWkkqdjlY7c6sR0XK3t-w&hl=en&ei=Ny6xStPtBZDAMLHD4MwD&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1#v=onepage&q=slip%20joint%20open%20tenon&f=false

O well, one more term to add to the memory bank.

[dan sherman]

For those that are interested, I finally finished the shoe racks, and posted a right up about them on my blog.

http://www.dans-hobbies.com/2009/11/21/finished-shoe-racks/

[Bill Houghton]

FWIW, that type joint is called a Bridal Joint.

I've also seen it spelled "bridle" joint. Not sure of the etymology, and the only big dictionary I have doesn't list the term under either spelling.

[Ron Petley]

Dan: looks good from here, but I have to ask you why would you sand it after plaining. I hate sanding so I would plain it flush and leave it at that. With a sharp blade, which yours looks like it is, the planed surface is better than scratched up by sandpaper.
Cheers Ron

[dan sherman]

Dan: looks good from here, but I have to ask you why would you sand it after plaining.

My planing skills aren't up to snuff yet, at least that's what I assume the problem was. If I tried to plain the end grain flush, I got tear out in the long grain. Thus to avoid the tear out, I planed it close and then finished up with the sanding block.

[Bob Easton]

More about bridle joints here: http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21531/21531-h/21531-h.htm#THE_BRIDLE_JOINT

Or, start at the top of that book (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21531/21531-h/21531-h.htm) to learn about all sorts of joints. Many modern books and magazines give us dumbed down descriptions that ignore history, and these old authentic sources are valuable for filling in the gaps and shallowness in some of our modern material.

[lowell holmes]

I've just moved to using a router plane for working tenons. I've used planes, floats, and rasps, but the Stanley 71 1/2 with a sharp iron is the way to go.

[Kirk Smith]

Hi,
I just watch the Hand planes dvd series from Jim KingShott. It's very interesting. There are zillions hand planes you want to have if you go total neandering. After watching these dvd, I grow more appreciation for the early craftmen. There were lots of hardwork and life time commitment for the craft. And more appreciation for the current woodworking technology. Without the current level of machinaries, I don't think woodworking is going to be that popular.
Just my 2 cents.

[Mark Maleski]

I played in the shop during lunch today, and I think I found a way to thin tenon cheeks that doesn't require me to purchase new tools...

[sigh] I'm afraid you're missing the point, then. :rolleyes:

[harry strasil]

Lowell, you can use Stanley router blades in a Tenon Router.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=119557&highlight=tenon+router

video here,
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=122794&highlight=tenon+router

[lowell holmes]

Harry,
I'm moving in that direction. I now have my old 71 1/2 Stanley cleaned, waxed, and very sharp irons for it. I was amazed that the nickel was intact under the grunge.

The next step is take a piece of quarter sawn whiteoak that I have in the shop and make something similar your tenon router.

[harry strasil]

One little tip Lowell, if you ever have to do long tenons or something similar to these,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/Nubenchrebates002.jpg

Do them in sections, the above ones I did in 2 cuts, the end half first, then after using the tenon router, I sawed out the second half then used the tenon router, the chance of getting a tapered tenon because of the router not having enough bearing surface is eliminated.

[David Keller NC]

My planing skills aren't up to snuff yet, at least that's what I assume the problem was. If I tried to plain the end grain flush, I got tear out in the long grain. Thus to avoid the tear out, I planed it close and then finished up with the sanding block.

There are a several ways to handle this. One is to intentionally assemble the joint so that the long-grain is being planed "the right way" by working the block plane in from the end across the end grain of the stile.

Sometimes that's not possible, so you've two other options - one is to put a very high angle micro-bevel on the front of the blade and close up the mouth when you get close to the long grain. That usually is enough to eliminate tear-out.

Finally, you can shave a small 45 degree chamfer on the end of the stile (the end-grain piece), then work the block plane from the interior out past the corner so you're working with the grain on the rail (the long-grain piece). You have to watch that you don't plane past the chamfer, though, or the the end of the stroke will split out the edge of the stile.