Scroll saw books?

[John Miliunas]

Looks like I'll probably be taking the dive into this (new to me) WW process. Reasons are numerous, but mainly, in recent months, my bum ankle seems to be bothering more and more, hence most WW requiring being in the upright and standing position, is a bit less conducive to getting much done. Secondly, it may be an additional venue to get my daughter busy doing "something" other than sitting in front of the "monster" playing video games! Anyhow, looking for some direction. I know there are any number of suppliers with different designs and patterns, but I'm a complete newbie to scrolling and am looking for recommendations on instructional-type books on the subject. Intarsia is not out of the question, either! Also, if I have a scroller's attention, how about a recommendation or two on blades? :confused: If time and $$ allows, I'd like to take a Woodcraft course or two on scrolling and/or Intarsia, but in the meantime, a book is good. Appreciate your input! :cool:

[Mark Patoka]

John,

Scrollsawing can be just as addicting as turning and you could find yourself wishing you had even more woodworking time. Check out www.scrollsaws.com (http://www.scrollsaws.com/) as Rick Hutcheson has quite a bit of info online.

For blades, go to www.mikesworkshop.com (http://www.mikesworkshop.com/) and get the Flying Dutchman brand blades. I use them and they are the preferred blade of many scrollers as well as Olson brand. Mike is very personable and very willing to help you pick out the blades you need. Stay away from Delta brand blades available at the 'Borgs as I've found them useless.

For books, I would look through the ones at Woodcraft or even Borders and Barnes and Noble. The Scrollsaw Handbook and Scrollsaw Basics cover a lot of beginner information.



*(no affiliation with any referenced websites)

[John Miliunas]

John,

Scrollsawing can be just as addicting as turning and you could find yourself wishing you had even more woodworking time. Check out www.scrollsaws.com (http://www.scrollsaws.com/) as Rick Hutcheson has quite a bit of info online.

For blades, go to www.mikesworkshop.com (http://www.mikesworkshop.com/) and get the Flying Dutchman brand blades. I use them and they are the preferred blade of many scrollers as well as Olson brand. Mike is very personable and very willing to help you pick out the blades you need. Stay away from Delta brand blades available at the 'Borgs as I've found them useless.

For books, I would look through the ones at Woodcraft or even Borders and Barnes and Noble. The Scrollsaw Handbook and Scrollsaw Basics cover a lot of beginner information.



*(no affiliation with any referenced websites)

Many thanks, Mark! :) *EXACTLY* the info I was looking for! Great leads on the sites, too! Sheeeeeesh...I kinda' hope it's NOT as addictive as turning! :eek: My lathes are still yelling at me every time I hobble on by! :rolleyes: Thanks again! :cool:

[Jim Becker]

Warren K, the host of the scrolling forum at WOOD Online might be a good person to ask about this, John.

[John Miliunas]

Warren K, the host of the scrolling forum at WOOD Online might be a good person to ask about this, John.

Thanks, Jim! :) I'll pay Warren a "visit"! Hopefully, I can get up to speed well enough to crank out a couple Christmas gifts with it! :cool:

[Tom Mullane]

John, you might want to consider joining the scroll saw forum that I co-moderate... http://groups.msn.com/scrollsawportraits
And to blow my own horn a little take a look at my site also http://www.oldgriz.biz ... I design scroll saw patterns and have my designs in both Scroller Ltd and Wooden Teddy Bear catalogs...
Scrolling is extremely addictive.. almost as bad as pen turning, LOL...
But you can make a nice little extra income, especially during the Christmas holidays... I sell approximately 250 ornaments a year at my farm market boot in Nov and Dec... and that is only Saturdays from 6:30 AM to 2:00 PM..
Have fun and don't try to go nuts with real complicated patterns in the beginning and you will do fine...

[Larry Guthrie]

John, Patrick Spielman's scrollsaw books are a good resource for patterns and techniques.

Scrollsawing is not really difficult, it just takes the right equipment and LOTS of practice.

Larry

[Mark Singer]

John,
You are always tryng something new....That is good! I know nothing about scroll saw blades and should not have responded to this thread.....I did want to say Good Morning. This is a nice place and one of the knowlegeable Creekers will help you.:rolleyes:

[John Miliunas]

Thanks to all for the valuable information! Mark, you're absoluterly right about this (SMC) being the right place to go to for needed info and guidance! :) Matter of fact, I primarily "blame" them for getting me into this "mess". :eek: As Larry said, "PRACTICE" is now what I'll be doing! Oh yeah....Stealth gloat included! :D :)

[Lloyd Brown]

www.wildwooddesigns.com is an excellent company for pattern. I have scrolled for 10 yr now and it is still my favorit activity. Just not profitable time wise. But great for "aaaw" factor.

[Dave Sweeney]

http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com/ is almost in your backyard. You might even know about them already. They also sell the Flying Dutchman brand of blades.

[John Miliunas]

http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com/ is almost in your backyard. You might even know about them already. They also sell the Flying Dutchman brand of blades.

Dave, I had planned on a ride over there this weekend! You're right, it IS just about at my back door, literally. Only about 15 min. away!!! :) He sometimes gets some nice selections of hardwoods in there, too! Got some beautiful Lacewood and BE Maple over there not too long ago and some real, real straight and wide 6/4 Oak! :cool:

[Dick Parr]

Great gloat John. :) I tried one of those and it is great. :D You will love it.

[Gary Max]

John without having a book right here in front of me----you need to put it together first--hope this helps you getting started.
If your daughter finds out -- she can be alot better on the scroll saw than you are--- you will never hear the end of it. The only thing she needs is patience and you are a goner. Her hands will do things that you can no longer even think about doing.
Blades ---- it depends on what you are cutting 1/8 purpleheart cuts differently than 2 inch cedar. You will need about three different blades--at least 2. Once you figure out what you like they are alot cheaper if you buy them by the GROSS---yah you will break a bunch of blades.
The wife says if you want she will send you some patterns to start out with. She does all our detail sawing. Oh you can make all kinds of stuff on a scroll saw--you need to see a bandsaw boxes made on one. SWMBO is making piggy banks on hers now.

[Joseph N. Myers]

John,

Welcome to the world of scrollsawing. I guess you can now be called a "Flat Lander", those that work with "flat wood".

Lloyd Brown already mentioned Wildwood Design, www.wlldwooddesigns.com (http://www.wlldwooddesigns.com), 1-800-470-9090. Add to that Cherry Tree, www.cherrytreetoys.com (http://www.cherrytreetoys.com), 1-800-848-4363.

You'll also need some magazines to get up to date on different suppliers, designs, etc. The only scrollsaw one I get is "Creative Woodworks & Crafts" that contains articles on Scrilling, Woodcrafts, Intarsia and Turning projects. Why don't you PM me your address and I'll send some of my back copies to you to get you started.

One good thing about scrollsawing, you don't need much wood. I'm in with some scrollsawers and sell them their wood - most of them can last a whole year on 10 to 20 bf - I'm not getting rich off of them.

And don't forget to check out Tom Mullane's site, www.oldgriz.biz (http://www.oldgriz.biz) - quite interesting.

Regards, Joe

[Dale Thompson]

Thanks to all for the valuable information! Mark, you're absoluterly right about this (SMC) being the right place to go to for needed info and guidance! :) Matter of fact, I primarily "blame" them for getting me into this "mess". :eek: As Larry said, "PRACTICE" is now what I'll be doing! Oh yeah....Stealth gloat included! :D :)

Hey Spring,
You got the DeWalt 788?? That is NOT a machine for a beginner!! :eek: YOU RAT!! I've got the Delta Q3 because it came out a year earlier than the 788. May I suggest that you try it out on a block of 1 1/2" 302 Stainless Steel. If you don't like its performance, I will be glad to discuss a deal with you. ;)

Regardless, make sure that your local post office scans all incoming packages from the northwoods.

Congrats, bud, YOU LUCKY RAT!! :D ;) :cool:

Dale T.

[John Miliunas]

Thanks for all the kind words and tips/hints/suggestions and sources! :) Oh yah...I KNOW I"m going to need a LOT of practice on that machine! Fortunately, it's not one of those shop machines, which will have deadline-type projects depending on it! I'll make mistakes, break a bunch of blades, have some real, REAL crappy looking projects for a while, but be learning the whole time. One of these years, I hope to get good enough to make a real project. :) I'm also hopeful that I can get my daughter interested in it. That's one of the main reasons I'm setting it up away from the main "production" area. I'll post the final setup area for the machine, though I wouldn't count on a whole lot of finished product pics just yet! :rolleyes: Oh, and Dale, 'ol buddy, I don't have any SS that thick around here! Think I may give it a shot on some 1/4" ply I have laying in the pile! :) :cool:

[Dale Thompson]

Hi Spring,
I've bought several books with patterns. Some of them were written by Spielman up in Door County.

When I want something unique, however, I go to the library and get picture books on the subject. A recent hexagonal lamp with a Native American theme is a good example. I picked up some books by Russell and Remington and others. You can copy the pictures that you want and reduce or enlarge them on a copy machine. In many cases, this can even be done at the library for a small fee. I then fasten them to the wood with rubber cement and make sawdust. The patterns peel off easily and the excess cement can be rubbed off with your hand. I've never seen any impact on the final finish. Use Naptha or something like that if you're paranoid. :rolleyes:

I'm sure that Spring Green has a mobile library come through town at least once a year. ;)

Good Luck and, again, congrats bud. :)

Dale T.

[John Miliunas]

I'm sure that Spring Green has a mobile library come through town at least once a year. ;)

Good Luck and, again, congrats bud. :)

Dale T.

Hey Dale, thanks for the additional tips! I'll have you know that SG held various Library Fund drives and we have a beautiful *PERMANENT* library! :D Not the very biggest selection around, but they can also "order in" books to sign out.

But, as long as I have your attention, any suggestions on blades for a true scroller newbie? Remember, I'm half blind, arthritic, not two aufly intelgent and have never done this be4! :rolleyes: Guess I'm not as concerned about brand as I am with no. of tpi, blade width and type. I intend on sticking to 1/8" to maybe 1/2" material for now. Most will probably be ply, although I might go ahead and resaw some hardwood(s), as well. Most all of the designs I see, which have *any* kind of nature theme involved, require many fine points in the cutting, such as leaves or hair and stuff like that. Thanks for all the help to all! :) :cool:

[Lou Morrissette]

John, you might want to check out books and tapes put out by Judy Gail Roberts if you're thinking about intarsia. I've found her instructional tapes very helpful.

[Ian MacDonald]

Hi John,

Here's one that kept me busy for several months last year. They are really fun to make and play with:

Making Wooden Jigsaw Puzzles by Evan J. Kern (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0811725553/qid=1095486212/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i1_xgl14/104-8561622-4380712?v=glance&s=books&n=507846)

Cheers,

-- Ian

[Dale Thompson]

But, as long as I have your attention, any suggestions on blades for a true scroller newbie? Most all of the designs I see, which have *any* kind of nature theme involved, require many fine points in the cutting, such as leaves or hair and stuff like that. Thanks for all the help to all!

Hey Spring,
Don't stress me out. You know that I know nothing about anything. :o Anyway, I've had good luck with Olson blades but I've also had good luck with Sears blades.

If you are cutting really FINE stuff, you will want to go with thin (.011" or so) blades with 20-25 or more TPI. Skip tooth blades will cut fast for quick outside cutting and Reverse teeth blades claim to prevent "chip out" on both sides of the work if that is important. They work but have limited application. I've never had good luck with "Spiral Blades". With open grain woods, like Oak, they always want to follow the grain. Pushing them on your pattern seems to cause burning. :mad:

As a scroll saw idiot, I've always found that blade tension and feed rate seem to be more important than precise blade selection. Get the blade as tight as you can and feed at a rate which "burnishes" the wood without "burning" it. "Burnishing" gives you a finish which certainly doesn't need any kind of sanding. :)

If you get into angled cutting and 180 deg. "spins", call Spielman up in Door County. :cool: I have yet to do a good 180 deg. "spin". Of course, I have yet to do anything other than produce a lot of scrap. :(

Glad to hear that you have a "Library". Remember that they have books with pics in them. You now can quit bugging the rest of us for "pics". :)

Another alert!! Your library probably has a section where you can actually color your own "pics". :D Just remember to stay inside the lines. Unfortunately you may have to lose an ounce or two before you can sit in the chairs. :)

A DW488!! One more needle goes into my Voodoo doll of DW488 owners! :eek: Sleep well. :mad:

Dale T.

[John Miliunas]

Hey Spring,
Don't stress me out. You know that I know nothing about anything. :o Anyway, I've had good luck with Olson blades but I've also had good luck with Sears blades.

As a scroll saw idiot, I've always found that blade tension and feed rate seem to be more important than precise blade selection. Get the blade as tight as you can and feed at a rate which "burnishes" the wood without "burning" it. "Burnishing" gives you a finish which certainly doesn't need any kind of sanding.
If you get into angled cutting and 180 deg. "spins", call Spielman up in Door County. :cool: I have yet to do a good 180 deg. "spin". Of course, I have yet to do anything other than produce a lot of scrap.

Glad to hear that you have a "Library". Remember that they have books with pics in them. You now can quit bugging the rest of us for "pics".

Another alert!! Your library probably has a section where you can actually color your own "pics". :D Just remember to stay inside the lines. Unfortunately you may have to lose an ounce or two before you can sit in the chairs.

A DW488!! One more needle goes into my Voodoo doll of DW488 owners! Sleep well.

Dale T.

Thanks for the tips, Dale! I tried the spiral blades, albeit they were in thinner stock and NOT Oak! I kinda' like them, but there's no getting a fine corner or angle with them. I played a bit today with a few No. 3's and broke a few No. 3's! :( Super-fine lines, but I've got an awful lot of practicing to do! :o I am glad, however, that I got the SS! Ankle was bothering me so much by the time I got home from work, it was all I could do to finish up a couple items for the ongoing house project(s). Then I sat at the SS and played a bit! Oh, and I've got that 180 deg. "spin" down-pat! :D You're *supposed" to have a hole at the spin point, which is about 4 times the width of the blade, right? Yeah. Can do that just fine! :rolleyes: Ahhhh, BUT, I may have some professional help (DON'T even THINK it!) coming: Terry Quiram contacted me and said he'd be in the "neighborhood" in the next day or two!!!! He's hoping to have a few moments open to stop and say, "Howdy"! Nuthin' like getting some tips and pointers from one of the Masters!!! :D In the meantime, I'll just have to keep breaking those blades..... :o :cool:

[Dale Thompson]

You're *supposed" to have a hole at the spin point, which is about 4 times the width of the blade, right? (quote)

Spring,
As far as I know you are supposed to spin the work so fast that the "hole" is indistinguishable from the "cut" line. :cool: Sorry to spoil your party but even a Vikings fan could do it if they had a hole FOUR TIMES larger than the blade!! :D

Please turn in your Cheesehead - with all due expediance!! :)

DW488 owners should be banned from this board!! :rolleyes:

Dale T.

[John Miliunas]

You're *supposed" to have a hole at the spin point, which is about 4 times the width of the blade, right? (quote)

Spring,
As far as I know you are supposed to spin the work so fast that the "hole" is indistinguishable from the "cut" line. :cool:

Awwww, dang it! Thought I had that down! Back to the drawing board.


DW488 owners should be banned from this board!! :rolleyes:

Correction there, my fine Peshtigonian friend! At this point, I think the DW488 owns ME! :eek:


Actually, I did do a couple practice ones, which wheren't too awful bad. You could kinda' see the "hole", but still smaller than a meeting point with a spiral blade. Sadly, that was just with a practice piece of scrap. Now, what was supposed to be a "finished product" is also a practice piece of scrap! :o What can I say? I'm a slow learner! :cool: