Sharpening Spindle Tools - I can't!

[Mike Minto]

I've only recently acquired spingle turning tools, and have been using the stock edge/bevel they came with. Now that it's time to sharpen them, I find I am putting a very sharp point on mine, not a smooth curve, and not following the original bevel over the whole tool. Do they need to be free-handed, or what? The point distresses me; I'm using a grinder. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mike :(

[David Christopher]

Mike, you should invest in a wolverine sharpening jig or something similar and your sharpening woes will be gone

[Mike Minto]

david, i appreciate what you said...i used to have one, sold it - may have to get another. right now i'm using a Sorby sharpening platform. have gotten the same results with my ProEdge. mike

[Ron Lynch]

If your tip gets too pointy you have to grind more off the point. The jigs just sent the angles, you're responsible for the actual shape of the grind.

[Harvey Ghesser]

Hi Mike,

David's right. Get the Wolverine and your sharpening woes are gone.

Best,
Harv

[John Keeton]

Mike, if you will permit me a momentary highjack - I just started with spindle turning as well, and I THINK I am doing the correct angles on the Wolverine. Are there standard angles? I am doing about 45* for gouges, about 80* for scrapers, not sure on the skews. Are there general guidelines?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike get you a wolverine and when you sharpen use light pressure on your tip. If you are heavy hand when you rotate across the tip it will get pointy on you.

[David Walser]

There are lots of different shapes and bevel angles experianced turners use -- with success -- for their turning tools. That's part of why I think learning to sharpen is actually more difficult than learning to turn. It helps to have an idea what you want your tool to look like at the end of the process, with that in mind, here are a couple of links to Tormek's website. The first is to a pdf chart showing common tool shapes and bevel angles. The second link is to Tormek's discussion of how to use Tormek's jigs to produce these shapes. (The discussion can be adapted to the Wolverine and Tru-Grind jigs.)

In addition to showing different shapes and bevel angles, Tormek's chart also gives you some idea what each shape and bevel angle is for. In addition, allow me to add some additional guidelines:


Softer woods tend to require "sharper" tools. That is, when turning pine, a skew with a 30 degree bevel angle might be better than one with a 45 degree bevel angle. The soft pine will tear out if your tool is not sharp enough to slice through it cleanly. (It will also tear out if your technique is not near perfect, which is why pine is a good practice wood.)
Harder woods tend to require "larger" bevel angles. A 45 degree bevel angle provides more metal behind the tool edge. This helps the tool's edge to stand up to the greater abuse that comes with cutting a hard wood, like hard maple. At the same time, the fibers most hard woods will still cut cleanly even with larger bevel angles.
Shallow bevel angles (what I call "sharper" above) tend to be more grabby and tend to be harder to control.

Here are the links:

http://www.tormek.com/en/accessories/tts100/pdf/tnt_selection_chart_en.pdf

http://www.tormek.com/en/accessories/tts100/index.php

One more thing: With the possible exception of Thompson tools, tools are not sharp and ready to use when you buy them. (The makers know most experienced turners each desire a different shaped tool, so sharpening makes little sense.) So, don't try to match the grind the tool came with.

Hope this helps and good luck!

[JerHall]

is:
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/09/23/podcast-37-turning-tools-sharpen-your-skills-with-sharp-tools/

It doesn't specifically address your question, but provides much essential information for getting the job done. It is over an hour long, and is as good or better than any sharpening guide I have seen, free or for purchase.

[alex carey]

not sure what to tell you except get some crappy tools and practice practice practice. I am all free hand, I even stopped using a rest.

When I first started and I had a good grind already on the tool, to replicate it I would use a black marker and make the edge black, that way you can see what your grinding.

[Mike Minto]

Mike, if you will permit me a momentary highjack - I just started with spindle turning as well, and I THINK I am doing the correct angles on the Wolverine. Are there standard angles? I am doing about 45* for gouges, about 80* for scrapers, not sure on the skews. Are there general guidelines?

John, my Sorby ProEdge lists 45 degrees as the correct angle for spindle tools; it has 'pre-sets' for 35 and 45 degrees. Thompson spindle tools are all 40 degrees, though. Mike :o

[Michael Mills]

Mike,
I have the Sorby and my first gouge came out pointy also. I agree with Ron, you have to grind more off of the point, just work it slowly to the shape you want. After that you will get the same profile. Normally on a new tool you will be grinding more off of the sides than the tip. I'm not sure what angle I set it at but I grind all of my gouges the same (bowl or spindle). I also had a local machine shop make a new base for about $10 (this is the U-channel with the holes drilled in the side). The flat tool rest section and the gouge guide are on different bases and it is a lot more convenient.
Mike

[Doug Thompson]

Mike, you can change the angle to 45 degrees without any problems. Call me if you have any questions 440-241-6360

[Mike Minto]

Mike, you can change the angle to 45 degrees without any problems. Call me if you have any questions 440-241-6360

Doug, thanks; you and Jim Wester of North Bay Forge are really full-service kinda guys, I must say. Here are pics of my latest Thompson spindle tools; the 5/8 still has Doug's grind on it, only been honed by hand with a diamond tool; the 1/2 detail spindle shows my problem (I don't think it's the angle, I think it's me); I've used a ProEdge and grinder. Have just been rolling the tool by hand on a platform at 40 degrees. I sure would like to get the original shape back. Thanks for any advice, Mike

[Bob Hallowell]

MIke you just need to spend more time grinding the center. samething will happen on the wolverine if you spend to much time on the ends and roll to quickly yhrought the center.

Bob