New Table Saw

[Tom Blodgett]

Hi,

I am new here but not new to woodworking. I started at the age of about 8 or 9 watching my father build furniture in his basement. I continued in this great hobby for many years but gave it up about 8 or 9 years ago (no time, started a family). Well, I finally re-entered this great hobby about 6 or 7 months ago (now at age 50). I build small furniture (end tables, storage chests, night stands....) I have most of my original power tools and started building. Wouldn't you know it, my table finally broke after all these years. Granted, it was only a small cheap saw, but it worked fine, until now.

So, I'm in the market for a new table saw and I have been doing a lot of research on the web and here at this site (great site!!). I have a small shop (about 14' X 14') out side my home, so because of its small size, I usually bring my table saw out into the drive way when I cut larger pieces.

My question is: are there any contractor type saws that could possibly be rolled thru a 30" door opening? That is how wide my shop door is. The other alternative is a portable contractors saw (bosch4000, makita2704.....) I am not opposed to the portable saws, but like the table size of the larger saw.

Any advise/comments/suggestions?

Thank you,

Tom

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Tom, this is going to sound strange, however a cabinet saw may fit through the doorway better than a contractor saw.

Saws are smaller front to back (along the table top) than they are left to right, however this can go astray with a contractor saw that has the motor hanging out the back

Regards, Rod.

[Peter Quinn]

Any chance of reframing for a larger door. perhaps a 3'0"? That would be my approach. Find the saw you want to work with and make the door fit rather than vice versa.

[Chris Tsutsui]

The jobsite saws are great IMO. I have a small shop so the Bosch does a good job at folding up and out of the way when not in use. then I have a track saw (or circular saw + guide) for ripping large sheet goods because I don't like cutting huge sheets on the bosch.

A contractor saw, (well most that i can think of) will probably have to be taken apart to fit through a 30" wide door and then assembled. Shouldn't be a problem if the saw is new and requires assembly. It would likely be better to work with overall, but simply take up more space.

I was at a Lowes a couple weeks ago and the delta contractor saw was clearance priced at $204 while normal price was $600. If you can find a deal like that then your decision will be easy.

However, if u cut large sheets in the driveway I am far leaning towards the bosch with gravity rise stand. The design and functionality is great.

[David Christopher]

Tom, nobody has said it yet so I will....Welcome to the creek, as you can already see you will get plenty of help with problems and spending your money

[Mitch Barker]

A current edition of a WW mag does a review of portable table saws. It was either PW or WWJ. If you go the portable route, this might be good info.

[Bill Huber]

I would also like to welcome you to the Creek.....


I have a Jet JWTS-10. it is a contractor saw but the motor is inside and does not hang out the back. It has a 27 inch deep table so I think it should go though the door.

I really like the saw and it has done everything I have needed it to do.
I did add cast iron wings to it and changed the fence.

http://woodworking.jettools.com/Results.aspx?cat=333605

[Tom Blodgett]

.......are there any contractor type saws that could possibly be rolled thru a 30" door opening?.........

I just remeasured my door opening, it is actually 32", not 30". I see that some contractors saw tables are 27" wide. Maybe some of them might fit thru this opening!!! I contacted Jet and they said there contractors saws table is 27", and with the guides, that would add another 3" to 4". Also, as Bill mentioned, the motor is inside and does not hang out the back!!!This one just might fit!! I need to do some more research on this topic.

Tom

[Dell Moore]

Just FYI, a few months back I got a 5HP used Delta Unisaw through a standard sized door, so like other's have said, don't overlook a cabinet saw. You can find nice used ones for very decent prices if you are patient.

Dell

[scott spencer]

Tom - A saw that's 27" deep will typically have several inches of front fence rail, some rear rail, and possibly hardware for a blade guard that may interfere with a 32" doorway. It could be close depending on the fence. My Shop Fox 1677 cabinet saw is closer to 33" deep from the front edge of the front rail to the rear edge of the rear rail, but that saw has a steel Biese style fence that might be deeper than some.

Ever check out the GI 50-090K? I've never seen one in person, but it looks like one of the hybrid/contractor cast iron saws with an enclosed motor mounted to a fold up rolling stand. Neat concept that really fills a niche....you're not alone.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/50-090K1.jpg

Bill - There aren't really any hard fast definitions for a hybrid saw, but a saw like yours that's has a belt drive induction motor housed inside the enclosure is what I consider to be a hybrid.

[Vince Shriver]

A Delta Contractor Saw: take off the wings, and the motor, which easily detaches. What's left will easily go thru your door, no problem. However, if you are going to be back and forth thru that door, I'd suggest something like a fold up Bosch type saw.

[Jim O'Dell]

I would think any of the hybrids (contractor saw with the motor inside the body of the saw) would be close. Take a measuring tape with you and go check out some. If the Craftsman saws will work, then the Steel City should also. If the saw has a front and rear rail, it might be close. The motor hanging out the back of a true contractor saw would keep it from working unless you went to the hassle of removing the motor each time...I wouldn't do it.
Be sure to measure the usable space at the door. Remember the jamb takes up a 1/2". If the door doesn't open 180 degrees, the door might take up some more space, thus cutting your 32" opening down to 31 or less. If the new Ridgid saw uses the same or similar fence that my old Ridgid has, it should scrape through too. :rolleyes: Glad to see you are back in the shop! Jim.

[scott spencer]

A Delta Contractor Saw: take off the wings, and the motor, which easily detaches. What's left will easily go thru your door, no problem. However, if you are going to be back and forth thru that door, I'd suggest something like a fold up Bosch type saw.

In order to fit, wouldn't taking off the wings require removing the fence as well?

[Zach England]

I got a jet cabinet saw through a 30 inch doorway and down an equally narrow stairway, but it involved removing the top (not just the wings--the whole top).

[Tom Blodgett]

Thanks everyone for all your suggestion/comments/recomendations in regards to my saw replacement. After MUCH thought and research, I have narrowed it down to (2) candidates, they are:

Makita 2704 - $384 (shipped)
Bosch 4100 - $419 (shipped)

The plan is to purchase one of these (2) saws (saw only, no base) and build me a base/cabinet that will fit my shop. I was seriously considering the Jet contractors saw, seeing that it "just might" fit thru the opening in my shop. But the price is double for what I can get one of the above saws for, and of course, the limitations in regards to the space in my shop.

I do realize that a contractors saw is much preferred over a portable, but I have thought long and hard and considered ALL my options and have decided upon one of the above mentioned saws. If I had a larger shop, there would be NO question as to what saw I would get, it would be the Jet.

Any comments on which of the above (2) saws is a better quality saw? From my research, it appears to be a toss-up.

Thank you,

Tom

[John Michaels]

I have the Bosch and love it. I've got the gravity rise stand, which makes moving the saw around real easy.

[Jason White]

Maybe a Shopsmith?

Jason


Hi,

I am new here but not new to woodworking. I started at the age of about 8 or 9 watching my father build furniture in his basement. I continued in this great hobby for many years but gave it up about 8 or 9 years ago (no time, started a family). Well, I finally re-entered this great hobby about 6 or 7 months ago (now at age 50). I build small furniture (end tables, storage chests, night stands....) I have most of my original power tools and started building. Wouldn't you know it, my table finally broke after all these years. Granted, it was only a small cheap saw, but it worked fine, until now.

So, I'm in the market for a new table saw and I have been doing a lot of research on the web and here at this site (great site!!). I have a small shop (about 14' X 14') out side my home, so because of its small size, I usually bring my table saw out into the drive way when I cut larger pieces.

My question is: are there any contractor type saws that could possibly be rolled thru a 30" door opening? That is how wide my shop door is. The other alternative is a portable contractors saw (bosch4000, makita2704.....) I am not opposed to the portable saws, but like the table size of the larger saw.

Any advise/comments/suggestions?

Thank you,

Tom

[Vic Damone]

Tom, Welcome. Your story is uncannily similar to mine. At least you have the 14'X14' independent space.

Since my space consists of the extra 6' at the back of a two car garage with a side door I was initially trying to save every square foot of space. Still, I prefer to roll what I need outside. I constructed my work bench to fit through the side door and I started with a direct drive Rigid jobsit saw.

This was working out great. I didn't even have to move the car to get what I needed outside. As my projects got larger I found myself cutting larger stock. Within a few months the Rigid's bearing gave out. This was no fault of the saw.

Since I was able to exchange it for a store credit I decided to get the contractor saw. Now I must move the car and roll the saw a little farther. No big deal really.

While I dislike contractor style saw for their poor dust management and the motor hanging out the back taking up space, this was my only option. IMO even a contractor opens up a great deal of table saw related options such as magnetic feather boards, after market fences, etc. The big advantage is stability and power.

If you feel your projects will remain small your choices are fine. If you envision yourself cutting a great deal of thick hardwood you might want to rethink your choice.