New Woodworking Bench (Parts I & II of II)

[Alan Schaffter]

Way back in Sept '07 after completing new extension and outfeed tables for my tablesaw, I said that my next project was going to be a relatively traditional woodworking bench based on a design by Lon Schleining which was first published in FWW a few years ago (see the copy on my extension table) . However there was always something with higher priority, and I never got around to it.

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Then, last December, while working on my second adjustable height assembly table (for a magazine article), I wondered if the adjustable legs I designed and built for those tables could be adapted to a woodworking bench such that the bench would be strong and stable.

I broached the subject to some friends and posted a few SketchUp drawings of the leg design. However the location of the stretchers on the initial design would likely have make it difficult or impossible to lift the top to adjust the bench height.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/NewBench-down.jpg

I subsequently changed the location of the stretchers from the fixed legs to the adjustable legs.

Since I already had an indexing jig set up to cut the leg notches for the assembly table legs, I decided to make the woodworking bench legs at the same time, using some beech I had sitting around the shop- that was over 9 months ago. This Spring I picked up a 30" x 72" x 2.75" maple top and some pieces for the aprons from Bally Block, then on a trip to Raleigh last month I picked up a few more pieces of beech for the base and more maple for the vise jaws at Klingspor. So finally, almost two years after having made the decision and over 9 months after actually cutting the first pieces, I had all the materials (and made the time) to actually start working on the new bench. I didn't take any in-progress shots, but here are some pics of the nearly completed adjustable height trestle base with top installed. I still need to add the maple aprons, 3 vises (QR front vise, sliding tail vise, Veritas twin screw tail vise), and bench dog holes.

Revised SketchUp drawing. (minus ratchet arms and release cords). Unlike my assembly table legs which stay together by sliding dovetails, these legs mate with a "V" and "V groove". The ratchet arms draw the leg halves together and keep the matching "V" profiles solidly mated.

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The unfinished top is just resting on the trestle base which is in its lowest (30") position. It is adjustable in 1" increments.

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End view showing top and bottom draw bored tenon pins on legs and wedged through tenons on stretchers.

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Close-up shot of ratchet pawl arms (minus release cable) and stretcher tenons.

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End view, one notch below full height (43").

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The adjustable height mechanism works very, very well (as good or better than the ones on my assembly tables). The bench is very sturdy, stable, and does not rack. While heavy, it lifts fairly easily -obviously one end at a time.

Before I continue, here are some stats-

Design:

A mix of elements from Lon Schleining's "The Best of Old and New" bench from his book and Fine Woodworking article. Elements include his thumbnail profiles on the feet and jaw faces, etc. and my own designs including the adjustable height trestle base. The adjustable trestle base is a new twist on my assembly table adjustable height legs which will be the subject of a forthcoming article in Dec/Jan issue of American Woodworker.

Materials:

Top, aprons, vise jaws- hard Maple
* Adjustable trestle base- American Beech.


Construction:


Trestle base- mortise & tenon and Titebond III
A mix of pinned-blind and wedged-through M&T joints
Aprons (and sliding tail vise) joined with hand-cut, half-blind dovetails - 6 sets!
Long side aprons attached to the top with glue only (long grain to long grain)
End aprons, to allow for seasonal changes in the cross-grain direction, are held in place with threaded rod, nuts, and barrel nuts. No through bolts or plugs are visible on the end vise face or free end aprons of the bench. Nuts are accessible from underneath to allow tightening.


Dimensions:

Top: (not incl. vises): 33-1/2" wide x 74" long x 2-1/2" thick- Yes, it is BIG!
Aprons: 1-3/4" thick x 5" high
Height: adjustable: 30-1/2" to 43-1/2"
Weight: TBD, but HEAVY!!!


Vises:

Lee Valley twin screw full width tail vise (20" between lead screws) (3" thick jaw)
Quick release front vise (3" thick jaw)
Sliding tail vise (w/o shoulder)


(all vise hardware was free, courtesy of the Woodcraft Top Shop contest gift certificate )

Aprons and vises installed:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2867.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2870.jpg

On one end is a Lee Valley/Veritas Twin Screw, full width, tail vise. It was a custom installation. Rather than surface mount the vise and add the chain housing to the back of the 3" thick vise jaw like the typical installation in the first picture below, I routed a recess for the flanges, sprockets, and chain and made a new, low profile cover.

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/01/veritastwinscrewvise.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_28641.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_28652.jpg

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Part II below

[Alan Schaffter]

One detail I haven't shown was how I attached the cross-grain aprons to the bench. Since they are cross grain you can't use glue without the danger of seasonal movement causing problems. Lon Schleining in his FWW bench article (which was my inspiration for this bench) and the instructions that came with my Lee Valley vise used a method similar to that used to attach breadboard ends. Like those, I milled a tenon on the end of bench and a slot on the back of the apron. They recommended attaching the apron with machine bolts in counterbores and barrel nuts buried in the table. Then they plugged the bolt head holes. I had two problems with that- appearance and the inability to tighten the bolts and snug up the apron at a later date. My solution was to bury barrel nuts in the apron, use 1/4-20 all-thread rod in a 3/8" hole (to allow movement), and pull it all tight with a nut and washer in a pocket in the underside of the table. It worked great!:

No visible hole plugs covering bolt heads:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2948.jpg

A view under the table. The hole on the left is for the barrel nut. A nut and washer is installed on the all thread rod in the pocket at right. I drilled three close holes and chiseled away the remaining wood to make the pockets. If I had a small ratcheting box wrench I could have made the pockets smaller. I can easily pull the aprons very tight this way:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2952.jpg

I am using 3/4" round Lee Valley Bench Dogs and Pups. When I laid out the locations for my dog holes I was very careful to avoid the locations of vise hardware and bench structure. I made a drill guide on my drill press and used it to keep and electric hand drill perpendicular while drilling holes in the top of the table and the aprons. I drilled the holes in the vise jaws on the drill press. Once I had one row completed I was able to use my Gramercy holdfasts to help clamp the guide:

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After some serious planing, scraping and sanding, the bench was finished with a 60/40 mix of mineral spirits and marine varnish. I will probably knock down the gloss of the top with steel wool or a Scotchbrite pad, then give it a few coats of wax. The bench is at its lowest height (30") here:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2931.jpg

And its highest (43") here:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2934.jpg

The quick release front vise (r.) and sliding tail vise (l.). I used my lathe to turn the vise handles out of scrap maple. The end knobs came from the local Michaels craft store.

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The adjustable legs are a variation of those I designed for my assembly table. I added a small pedal to release the ratchet pawls when I lower the table. I am not completely satisfied with the pedal arrangement and may change it. The bench is heavy, but changing height is not too bad. It is something that I won't be doing often once I find a comfortable working height, but if I need it, I have that capability.

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The finishing touch is a label Rob Lee of Lee Valley graciously sent me along with some cork vise facing. I put the label on the chain cover I made for my custom Lee Valley/Veritas Twin Screw Vise installation. Thanks Rob!

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1463/medium/IMG_2939.jpg

[Jerome Hanby]

Prepare to be shamelessly copied. I love the idea for attaching the aprons!

[John Harden]

Very nice!!!! I love home made benches. Always fun projects to build!!!

I'm curious as to why you wanted adjustable height. Also, that seems to be quite a range of adjustability. Do you find that you actually change the height all that much and do you use the full range?

I tend to like my benches higher than most so that's how I built the last few. I've seen the adjustable ones that some vendors sell but always wondered if I'd really ever change the height, so I'm curious to hear if you do and how often.

Again, very nicely done!!!!!

Regards,

John

[Alan Schaffter]

Very nice!!!! I love home made benches. Always fun projects to build!!!

I'm curious as to why you wanted adjustable height. Also, that seems to be quite a range of adjustability. Do you find that you actually change the height all that much and do you use the full range?

I tend to like my benches higher than most so that's how I built the last few. I've seen the adjustable ones that some vendors sell but always wondered if I'd really ever change the height, so I'm curious to hear if you do and how often.

Again, very nicely done!!!!!

Regards,

John

Thanks. I could not decide on an optimum height and knew if I picked one I would be stuck with it unless I built a completely new base. I had already designed a version of these legs for an assembly table. I change the height of that all the time- from low sitting height, to lean-over working height, and full up to standing height. The WW bench is too new to tell how much I will use the adjustable height, but as I said, if I need the capability, I have it.

[Prashun Patel]

(hands clapping)

Wonderful bench and wonderful documentation.
Thanks for inspiring!

[John Harden]

Thanks. I could not decide on an optimum height and knew if I picked one I would be stuck with it unless I built a completely new base. I had already designed a version of these legs for an assembly table. I change the height of that all the time- from low sitting height, to lean-over working height, and full up to standing height. The WW bench is too new to tell how much I will use the adjustable height, but as I said, if I need the capability, I have it.

I hear you there. A few times I have wanted my bench a bit lower or higher, so I'm curious to see how often you change the height down the road.

Completely agree with you on an adjustable height assembly bench. About half the time I want it about waist high and the other half I want it 12-18" high.

Regards,

John

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Brilliant. Simple and brilliant.

[John Gregory]

Ditto what Cliff said. I am very impressed.

[Mike Cruz]

I am speechless. How in the world could you ever USE that? I wouldn't even set a beer on that without a coaster... unbelievable.

[John Harden]

At first glance, I'd think that it would tend to rack quite a bit back and forth under pressure, particularly since the load is on the narrow inner legs.

However, after looking at it closer, I see how you designed the inner legs so they nest inside the outer ones with the arrow head shaped profile.

I'm gonna guess that profile, coupled with the design of the bars/bracket that meshes with the teeth forces the inner legs out towards the outer ones and eliminates any racking.

Are my guesses correct? If so, very clever design. I'm impressed!!!!

Regards,

John

[Gary Kvasnicka]

That is absolutely awesome! Great design and excellent execution. Thanks for documenting it so well.

[Keith Christopher]

Love it ! If I didn't have so many projects in the hopper now I would certainly be working towards something like this !

[Alan Schaffter]

At first glance, I'd think that it would tend to rack quite a bit back and forth under pressure, particularly since the load is on the narrow inner legs.

However, after looking at it closer, I see how you designed the inner legs so they nest inside the outer ones with the arrow head shaped profile.

I'm gonna guess that profile, coupled with the design of the bars/bracket that meshes with the teeth forces the inner legs out towards the outer ones and eliminates any racking.

Are my guesses correct? If so, very clever design. I'm impressed!!!!

Regards,

John

Correct. You nailed it! :) The legs have mating "V" male and female shapes with the tip of the male "V" flattened on the inner (upper) leg so it won't bottom out and nests tightly. The leg attachment to the base is tight and solid, but, the lower legs and the base form a "U" which will flex just enough that they can be pulled tight against the upper legs by the weight and angle of the ratchet arms.

[David DeCristoforo]

This is an awesome workbench design and it is beautifully executed. Except for one thing. The little "foot pedal" thing with the string and wires? That's gotta go. It just does not measure up to the rest of the project and detracts from the whole. Sorry... I don't mean to belittle your effort which is far beyond anything I have ever attempted for my own shop. And it's a little thing really. Surely you can come up with something a bit more elegant? Other than that, I am ....well... shut my mouth!

[Alan Schaffter]

This is an awesome workbench design and it is beautifully executed. Except for one thing. The little "foot pedal" thing with the string and wires? That's gotta go. It just does not measure up to the rest of the project and detracts from the whole. Sorry... I don't mean to belittle your effort which is far beyond anything I have ever attempted for my own shop. And it's a little thing really. Surely you can come up with something a bit more elegant? Other than that, I am ....well... shut my mouth!

I agree! I spent hours thinking about that and have not yet come up with a release I like. You will notice what I said in the write-up, "I am not completely satisfied with the pedal arrangement . . . " I didn't even put finish on the pedals. It works but is too flimsy and doesn't fit with the overall look of the bench.

In operation there must be a bungee or flexible connection with the ratchets which don't release until weight is temporarily removed but it must be light enough that the pawls still engage by gravity. I have a couple of other configurations that I am working on.

[Rob Cunningham]

That's a beautiful bench. Thanks for posting the details of how you built it. I agree with David about the foot pedal, but I'm sure you'll be able to come up with something fitting. Great job and very inspiring.

[Zach England]

Very impressive. If I had a bench like that I'd have dinner parties in the shop.

[Matt Ranum]

I am impressed! Ingenious design.

[Marty Paulus]

First, Impressive bench. Very nice work.

Second, do you have a pic of the jig you used to cut the teeth of the rack? Better yet do you have it in SU?

Third, Are you willing to post the SU file of the bench?

[glenn bradley]

How fun. What a great bench. Very beautifully executed.

[Roy Wall]

Alan -

Thank you for sharing this bench with us - it is fantastic! Several brilliant innovations along with tremendous desighn & craftsmanship (dt's are superb,etc...) make this one of the best benches ever produced here on Sawmill Creek.

You'll figure out the foot pedal.......perhaps something directly attached to the lower foot (centered) with the pedal pointing towards you -- that can be depressed and spring back up... Or a traditional pedal could be integrated into a 45* block attached and centered to the lower foot. Maybe a metal pedal, some springs, some stainless steel cable....etc....?

I play the drums and these types of foot pedals have a short chain that attaches the pedal to a cam that holds the beater. You could just extend the chain on up.......rambling ideas......

Again - well done...very, very cool bench!!:)

[Alan Schaffter]

First, Impressive bench. Very nice work.

Second, do you have a pic of the jig you used to cut the teeth of the rack? Better yet do you have it in SU?

Third, Are you willing to post the SU file of the bench?

Marty, thanks.

To answer your questions-

I never got around to drawing up the top, there are plenty of those already on the web, but I have the adjustable trestle base in SketchUp. I need to fix some errors (my SketchUp skills are still lacking) and revise it with a few changes I made during construction. Since I put a considerable amount of design and work into these, I thought I would try to sell the plans on Ebay. I don't think they would really sell well so decided I didn't want the hassle.

The jig to cut the ratchets is incredibly simple! It is nothing more than a large version of the most basic of box joint jigs.

In deference to my editor, rather than post them here, I will ask you to get your hands on the Dec/Jan issue, #145, which should be available around 1 Nov, of American Woodworker Magazine. It will include a two part article I wrote on how to build an adjustable height assembly table with a torsion box top mounted on my adjustable legs. Hopefully, it should provide enough detailed photos, diagrams, and instructions, to allow folks to build my legs as well as the torsion box top- my method is easier and quicker than following the David Marks/DIY or Wood Whisperer methods. The first article shows how to build the assembly table legs which, while not identical to my WW bench legs, are constructed similarly and work the same way. There should also be a video on either YouTube or the AWW website (or both) that shows how the legs operate. I plan to add video of the WW bench legs also. Depending on what my editor says, I may put the SketchUp drawing on the web as well.

I have a few other high priority things going on right now, so all I can say is stay tuned. Again, thanks for the compliments and interest.

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan -

I play the drums and these types of foot pedals have a short chain that attaches the pedal to a cam that holds the beater. You could just extend the chain on up.......rambling ideas......

Again - well done...very, very cool bench!!:)

Thanks.

In my younger days, I played at playing the drums :) . I also have been thinking about a version of the bass drum pedal or a high-hat cymbal pedal mechanism- but want to keep it simple.

[John Thompson]

Just an excellent job of both design and build on this bench, Alan. Fortunately I know what height I prefer but those adjustments give you some range. I have both a high assembly table and low assembly table as I do some pretty large carcass work. That bench could be used for the low assembly if you don't have room for 2 assemblies and a work-bench which fortunately I do..

Very nice indeed....

[Billy Trinh]

Great bench! Sorry for the novice question...how do you lift the bench for height adjustment? It seems that the bench have to go up/down evenly both side due to the arrow grooves but you mentioned lifting one side at a time? maybe with a jack? :confused:
update: ahh to answer my own question, perhaps the bench top is not attached to the legs so they can move independently?

[Alan Schaffter]

Great bench! Sorry for the novice question...how do you lift the bench for height adjustment? It seems that the bench have to go up/down evenly both side due to the arrow grooves but you mentioned lifting one side at a time? maybe with a jack? :confused:
update: ahh to answer my own question, perhaps the bench top is not attached to the legs so they can move independently?

Nope. The top is attached. I just lift one end at a time. The ratchet pawls disengage and freely click from notch to notch as I lift. They re-engage when I stop lifting and let is settle. As I lift, the table, upper leg assembly, and lower leg assembly all tilt. Since the lower leg assemble on the lifted end is free to slide. It does that, sliding down the upper leg until I stop lifting. The mating "V" surfaces are waxed to facilitate sliding.

[jay gill]

Alan, after some time, is there any update on how much you actually adjust the height of the bench?

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan, after some time, is there any update on how much you actually adjust the height of the bench?

I adjust it on a regular basis because I tinker as well as do woodworking. Sometimes I will stand at the bench with the work almost chest high, sometimes it will be lower for woodworking, but other times it is nice to be able to lower it so I can sit in my rolling desk chair while working. One thing I have discovered is that I don't need the full height/range I built into it.

[thomas prusak]

Absolutely amazing bench! Beautiful work and great design. You are the best!

[Bruce Page]

I somehow missed this on the first go around!

Beautiful!

[Rick Prosser]

... One thing I have discovered is that I don't need the full height/range I built into it.

So, if you built another one - what range would it have?

Did you ever figure out a better foot pedal option?

[John Poole]

re: ratchet/pedal

What about having a 2" threaded wooden rod that would remain a permanent part running in the center of the lower horizontal member of the moving square and would be used to control the lowering of the moving square. Then you could have the connector to the dangling metal ends be something temporary to hold them together so you could lower turning the wooden thread. You indicated earlier that you simply lift the top and the sliding square moves up ratcheting. Well, the temporary (leather braided strand) I'm contemplating that pulls the two ends of the metal close to disengage the ratchet and then you use the screw to slowly lower the bench to the desired ratchet number. When your height has been lowered to where you want it, you remove the braid, store it underneath the bench, and then turn the thread so it no longer acts as a support leaving the ratchets fully engaged.

I'd also consider treating the metal with an black coating (except for the cylinder parts in the ratchet teeth) keeping the color element (you've introduced silver-steel to the design) count down and match the vise hardware.

Very inspiring, I showed my wife and murmured "change order" -- we both laughed. I, too, have in process a bench based upon Loni's article.

[Alan Schaffter]

re: ratchet/pedal

What about having a 2" threaded wooden rod that would remain a permanent part running in the center of the lower horizontal member of the moving square and would be used to control the lowering of the moving square. Then you could have the connector to the dangling metal ends be something temporary to hold them together so you could lower turning the wooden thread. You indicated earlier that you simply lift the top and the sliding square moves up ratcheting. Well, the temporary (leather braided strand) I'm contemplating that pulls the two ends of the metal close to disengage the ratchet and then you use the screw to slowly lower the bench to the desired ratchet number. When your height has been lowered to where you want it, you remove the braid, store it underneath the bench, and then turn the thread so it no longer acts as a support leaving the ratchets fully engaged.

I'd also consider treating the metal with an black coating (except for the cylinder parts in the ratchet teeth) keeping the color element (you've introduced silver-steel to the design) count down and match the vise hardware.

Very inspiring, I showed my wife and murmured "change order" -- we both laughed. I, too, have in process a bench based upon Loni's article.

Gee, this thread won't die :D :D :D

John, thanks for the compliments and ideas. Believe me, I wrestled with the release pedal mechanism on and off for the past two years. Other things always seemed to get in the way, the biggest of which is a design of mine that will hopefully hit the woodworking market in the next few weeks! :) . I'll post about it when cleared.

I think my first ratchet release was similar to what you describe. It was just a bungee between the pawl arms. In the version I used on the table I built for the AWW article, I joined the pawl arms with a long bungee that hung just above the floor. To lower the bench I would step on the bungee and lift on the table slightly which allowed the pawls to disengage. I lowered the table to desired height then let the bungee slip out from under my foot. The second, similar version required I grab and hold the bungee before grabbing the end of the table. I let the bungee slip out of my hand when the table was at desired height. I didn't really like either method- it was awkward holding the bungee and the table, and letting the bungee go or slip from under my foot while still supporting the end of the table. I would rather use pull rods, weights, etc.

When I installed the pedal release mechanism, I actually considered trying about a half dozen approaches. All were neater looking and more integrated with one or both legs. However, they required a permanent modification to the leg/base structure. I was never fully satisfied with any of the ideas so never implemented any of them. Besides, my existing mechanism works just fine, its just not up to my standards. Maybe when I license or am otherwise done with the other designs I am actively shopping around, I'll get back to the bench.

[Mike Heidrick]

Bump because it is still an awesome design.

[Alan Schaffter]

Thanks, Mike!

It still works great and I still use its full adjustment range!

Unfortunately, it doesn't look as purty anymore- scrapes, dings, (shhhhh even a little paint and a burn spot :eek: )

And no, I never got around to designing a better pedal/release mechanism. :rolleyes:

[Joe A Faulkner]

Thanks for the bump Mike. I can't believe this has been around for eight years and I haven't seen it referenced every time some asks for guidelines on how tall to make their bench. Very cool and innovative design.

[William Fretwell]

And no, I never got around to designing a better pedal/release mechanism. :rolleyes:

Bungee will degrade, string is Naff. Good old gravity won't wear out. Attach a weight to the very bottom of each of the V's, this weight serves to re-engage the mechanism. The weights could be cool lead fishing weights attached with wire. Attach nice chain between the two V's. Another length of chain goes up from the V chain middle around a block on the bottom of the bench and out the apron through a drilled hole. When you want to move the bench top just pull the chain tight, hold the chain between your palm and the bench end. Lifting the bench adds more tension to aid the release of the engaged mechanism. Release the chain with your palm to re-engage. Let the chain run between your palm and bench end as you raise the bench.
Lowering the top will require a loop of chain around your palm and swivel your hand to the right for each inch of movement down.
If the hole in the bench end is to the right just inside of your hand position and hole flared it should work well.

The balance of the weights and chain used can be adjusted so little force is needed when the weight of the bench is lifted.

This gets the paddle off the floor for shop cleaning and keeps your feet in a good lifting position.

This is not so different from what you have been doing it just moves control from your foot to hand.

[andy bessette]

Though I am skeptical of the stability and practicality of the adjustable height feature, I must say the workmanship on the whole bench is admirable. Nice job!

[William Fretwell]

Though I am skeptical of the stability and practicality of the adjustable height feature, I must say the workmanship on the whole bench is admirable. Nice job!

I agree, at first look the bench seems top heavy. However the feet almost reach the apron width, the top part of the frame is very robust and sits in the V groove that the weight of the bench keeps snug. Adding drawers under the bench is a lot more troublesome however. A platform to stand on for a lower bench height seems much easier.

[Alan Schaffter]

Though I am skeptical of the stability and practicality of the adjustable height feature, I must say the workmanship on the whole bench is admirable. Nice job!

Thanks. You really need to watch the video* where I demonstrate its adjustability and extreme stability. At one point during the demo I lean and push laterally against the top while it is in the full-up position- no wobble, no tilt, no motion. I think it is much more stable than the adjustable tables made with scissor jacks, etc. Believe me, I really use the adjustment feature. There are times when I want to do operations at chest height and other times when I want the table lower so it is easier to exert downward pressure on the work.

* The video was on the AWW website for years until they were purchased then closed by PopWW. Unlike the AWW article about my adjustable height assembly table (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-71113-adjustable-height-assembly-table), the video of the assembly table and bench video never made the transition to the PopWW website. If I can find the original video and get a chance, I'll upload it again.



I agree, at first look the bench seems top heavy. However the feet almost reach the apron width, the top part of the frame is very robust and sits in the V groove that the weight of the bench keeps snug. Adding drawers under the bench is a lot more troublesome however. A platform to stand on for a lower bench height seems much easier.

The feet on trestle base are indeed nearly as wide as the aprons and though the nearly 3" thick hard maple top is indeed heavy- the bench does not exhibit any of the undesirable characteristics of structures that are considered "top heavy." The weight actually improves its stability and rigidity. I think is much easier to adjust the bench height to the desired level than it would be to use a fixed height platform and move to where needed- I can work from any side of the bench, with no trip hazards. The lower stretcher makes adding drawers impossible. It is not everyone's cup of tea, but I still break out into a grin whenever I adjust it for a task.