Flush trim bit

[Gerry Lopez]

Building a router table. Having an issue trimming laminate around the router plate opening. Trimming the recessed area where the router plate sits, which is 3/8" deep, the bit I'm using does not give me enough clearance to trim the edge.

The bit does not clear above the 3/8", the guide bearing hits below the edge I want to trim. If I raise the bit, just the very end of bit and bearing area touch the laminate edge. Using a Triton 2 1/4 router. Will double check my depth adjustment.

Hope my description is clear. Will try to take picture.

Thanks,

G.L.

[Jamie Buxton]

This is dodgey, but it might work. Probably what's hitting the ledge is the screw that holds the guide bearing on. Remove that screw and see if the cutting edge will get where it needs to go. Of course, if you attempt to cut without that screw, you're in danger of having the bearing fall off. In this case, the ledge seems like it can hold the bearing from falling off.

[Bob Barkto]

If you are trimming laminate you can try using a solid carbide laminate trim bit.
They have a short pilot ~1/4".
They even make them with extra short pilots, dado trim bits I think they call them.

Solid bits can leave marks, but the inside edge of a router plate hole doesn't show. Keep your bit moving to avoid burning.

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm not a router user so please bear with me on this one.

Can you use a larger diameter bit with a smaller diameter bearing and ride on the bottom of the opening for the router plate?

regards, Rod.

[Joe Scharle]

Not a direct answer, but I cut those with a downcut spiral (no bearing), sized for the corner radius. If you still have your template for the cutout, it may work for you.

[Jay Jeffery]

Building a router table. Having an issue trimming laminate around the router plate opening. Trimming the recessed area where the router plate sits, which is 3/8" deep, the bit I'm using does not give me enough clearance to trim the edge.

The bit does not clear above the 3/8", the guide bearing hits below the edge I want to trim. If I raise the bit, just the very end of bit and bearing area touch the laminate edge. Using a Triton 2 1/4 router. Will double check my depth adjustment.

Hope my description is clear. Will try to take picture.

Thanks,

G.L.

Would a solid bit like this (http://www.toolking.com/makita_7331280a_self_piloting_flush_trimmer_router _bit.aspx) work?
I've never used one personally, but i would think you could trim the pilot down with a Dremel or grinder is need be. For that reason, I'd go HSS, not solid carbide.

It would probably be safer than removing the screw from a bearing bit, even if you superglued it in place.

[Bob Barkto]

That is exactly what I referred to.
They are also available with a short, 1/8" long, pilot.


It's near impossible to trim the pilot on the carbide bits. A silicon carbide wheel in a bench grinder can do it, slowly.
I haven't seen them in HSS.





Would a solid bit like this (http://www.toolking.com/makita_7331280a_self_piloting_flush_trimmer_router _bit.aspx) work?
I've never used one personally, but i would think you could trim the pilot down with a Dremel or grinder is need be. For that reason, I'd go HSS, not solid carbide.

It would probably be safer than removing the screw from a bearing bit, even if you superglued it in place.

[Paul Atkins]

What I have done is to make a 1/2" thick baltic birch template with the lathe and use a top bearing flush trimmer bit. I can make holes any size this way and go very shallow or deep as the bit. I double stick the template or even pin nail it to the project. You then have a template to make more parts when you need.

[Gerry Lopez]

Will pursue some of your suggestions. Will report back. The bit that I have, from tip of set screw to top of bearing, is slightly bigger than the depth of router plate recces.

Thanks for your suggestions.

G.L.

[Steve Clardy]

I cut the hole out, 3/8" less in size than the plate. [First drilled 4 holes at the corners]

Then I used a 3/8" rabbit bit to make the lip for the plate to sit on.

[Stan Johnsey]

So if I am gonna buy one 1/2" shaft flush trim bit what size should I get?

[Bob Barkto]

Here are some part numbers for the bit you need.
You can get these bits at most of the online tool suppliers, they're not very common so the borg's and hardware stores seldom have them.

Whiteside SC28C
Amana 51204
Everlast SCDF

[Myk Rian]

So if I am gonna buy one 1/2" shaft flush trim bit what size should I get?
Get a 1/2" bit w/top bearing. 1/4" shank. You won't find a 1/2" shank in a 1/2" bit size with a top bearing.
http://www.freud-tools.com/freudtopbear.html

[Curt Harms]

Get a 1/2" bit w/top bearing. 1/4" shank. You won't find a 1/2" shank in a 1/2" bit size with a top bearing.
http://www.freud-tools.com/freudtopbear.html

I've used 3/4" plywood strips 3" wide fo form a box around the router plate. Use a top bearing pattern bit like Myk is referring to and the bearing will ride against the plywood edge. I've done this using MLCS's plate and a half inch diameter bit fit the radius of the plate nicely. You can use double stick tape to hold the plywood in place. You can also get templates to use with a router bushing but simple is good. For this application be sure the cutting surface is not too long; you want to be sure the bearing will ride on the edge of plywood template when the bit is barely cutting,
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html#pattern_flush_anchor

#6509 will work--1/2" cutting length.

[Bob Barkto]

I think the OP is just trying to trim some laminate around an exisitng opening...

[Stan Johnsey]

I won't be cutting out using a template. I will just be trimming laminate flush and solid wood edging on the edge of plywood. I would prefer a 1/2 shank bit.

[Myk Rian]

Route the rabbet deeper. Then put leveling screws in it.

[Bob Barkto]

Are you trying to limit your use to just one bit for trimming both the solid edging and the laminate?

You won't find a 1/2" shank bit that will trim the laminate in that limited depth recess. And you don't need it for laminate trimming, totaly overkill for that task.
The bits I referenced will trim the laminate easily and quickly without any additional jigs or fixtures and they are comparatively inexpensive, about $8.
They are the tool for this job. It's what they were designed to do.

The solid edging would require a stronger bit with more cutting capacity.

Maybe you could post a picture?


I won't be cutting out using a template. I will just be trimming laminate flush and solid wood edging on the edge of plywood. I would prefer a 1/2 shank bit.

[Gerry Lopez]

Here is what I did to make the bit I have work. Using the suggestion to remove set screw, but replaced it with one that gave me the clearance to trim the laminate.

Thanks again for all the input and suggestions.

G.L.

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