Plans for the drum sander/planer flip cart?

[Stephen Edwards]

Does any one have the plans or a good pictorial essay with a verbal description of the flip cart that holds both the Performax 16-32 and a Dewalt planer? I've seen the video on Youtube. Somewhere I saw a more detailed description with details of this project but can't seem to find it now.

Any info or links would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Bill Huber]

I don't have the info you need but for me I just reinvent the wheel.

Take all the measurements you need on the tools and then design one to fit just your needs.

I made a one sided one for my planner that way, its fun and you get to waste a lot of wood re-designing it when you forget about the handle or something like that.

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/89705417

[Myk Rian]

Pretty much what Bill said. It isn't hard to make to your dimensions.
I made one and it works great.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=105326
http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/12219-thickness-planer-stand.html

[glenn bradley]

Different sander but, here's mine. One one of the best investments in a little shop fixture time I have ever spent.

Here it is with the planer up:

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The planer sits on the fixed top surface. That is; this top is glued to the frame and screwed from inside. This view also shows the latching mechanism; these tightening latches at the four corners really keep everything solid:

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Flipping over. The weight of each tool is centered over the axle. Even with a 60lb sander and an 80lb planer, flipping is a breeze:

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Sander up (used to be my CMS, then a different sander, now this one):

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The sander sits on the removable top surface. I am so glad I added this feature as I have changed tools a few times and this allow the addition of different t-nut positions. The recessed lock nut mates with a bolt from the other side. This acts as the axle for the eye-bolt that creates the latch as well as adds strength in keeping the two top surfaces mated. The coutersink-washered screws hold the removable top onto the frame with one screw positioned through each axle to lock it to the frame making the axle pivot in the support block:

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[glenn bradley]

Here is a view of the 1" oak dowel used as an axle. There is one on each side about 6-7" long. The block provides a little more support than the 3/4" BB ply might on its own. I waxed them with paraffin prior to assembly years ago and they still move fine. There is also a large washer made from a cutout of an old coffee can lid between the fliptop frame and the sides at each axle position:

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I used one set of fixed wheels and one set of dual-locking swivel wheels. The first version was all swivel and while this is more manuverable, it was harder to steer and I kept banging into things . . . of course that could just be my gift of natural grace:

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And here's another overview with the planer back on top:

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This thread has some shots with the tools off and shows the bottom: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=91236

[Stephen Edwards]

Thanks Gentlemen. I've saved this thread to file. I'm sure I'll be bugging you guys with some questions when I get around to this project. When I look at my two separate setups now, I think of how much more space will be opened up by combining the two machines onto one fliptop.

Thanks again!

[Michael Heffernan]

Here are a few images of my flip top planer cart. The sides are two pieces of 3/4 birch plywood, glued together. The top is a torsion box, with an oak frame sandwiched with 3/4 MDF. I added a drawer at the bottom for planer accessories and odds and ends. It is mounted on double locking casters.
Since I have a small shop, this cart works well. It is the same height as my table saw and is a great outfeed table with the planer stored.
Measure the planer and sander you want to mount and build your cart so they fit. Good luck, have fun and post it when you finish your cart.

Michael

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[Adam Diethrich]

To revive an old thread and ask a question...

Michael,

Can you tell me the overall width/length of the top mounting surface of your cart?
I'm looking at building one of these to accomodate a couple different tools for now, but the same planer at one point down the road.

Thanks, and this looks really good. Nice job.

A.W.D.


Here are a few images of my flip top planer cart. The sides are two pieces of 3/4 birch plywood, glued together. The top is a torsion box, with an oak frame sandwiched with 3/4 MDF. I added a drawer at the bottom for planer accessories and odds and ends. It is mounted on double locking casters.
Since I have a small shop, this cart works well. It is the same height as my table saw and is a great outfeed table with the planer stored.
Measure the planer and sander you want to mount and build your cart so they fit. Good luck, have fun and post it when you finish your cart.

Michael

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[Paul Stoops]

Hi Stephen,

You might check out this post: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?172205-Flip-top-Planer-Sander-Cabinetsfd

Downloadable plans for this project are available here: https://app.box.com/files/0/f/115608862

Enjoy,

Paul

[Michael Heffernan]

Adam,
Sorry for the late response. Saw your post, but been extremely busy.
The planer, when folded up for storage is 27" wide x 23" deep x 15-1/8" high. This is with the planer height set at 3-3/8". That is where I set it, fold up the infeed table all the way and the outfeed table folds up and touches the bottom of the exhaust port.
With the tables opened flat, the depth is 38"

The rotating platform on the cart is 24" deep x 28-3/4" wide. The cart sides are 1-1/2" thick (two 3/4" birch ply with 1-1/2" x 2" maple banding. The base opening is 18-3/8" high.
This cart is invaluable in my small shop. I flip the planer probably a couple of time a day for the past four years. The drawer below holds extra blades, old blades (for rough cut lumber), torx wrench, and other miscellaneous stuff.

I did post a thread on the build in 2009, but I think it is gone. If you need more info, let me know.

[Pete Janke]

271568271569I just looked at a bunch of them on different forums and built mine to fit my tools. I used a length of all-thread inside some electrical conduit for the pivot.

[Steve Vasquez]

What is used for the pivot for the top?

[glenn bradley]

I used a 1 inch oak dowel.

[Paul Stoops]

I used 3/4" diameter steel rod or bar, 12" long.

[Alan Lightstone]

I used a 1" steel rod, 6" long. Thicker top piece, obviously. Overkill, I'm sure.

Mine's to hold a hollow chisel mortiser and an edge sander, so less weight, though still substantial.

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[Jay Aubuchon]

I used a 1 inch oak dowel.

Me too. Plenty strong.