PDA

View Full Version : Which Pen Mandrel for Jet Mini Lathe?



Dan Hunter
09-05-2009, 7:31 PM
Well, the title pretty much sums it up. I have a Jet Mini Lathe and I want to purchase a mandrel for it to make some pens. Woodcraft offers a #1 and a #2 mandrel, but I am not sure which one goes for the Jet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Jon Behnke
09-05-2009, 7:41 PM
Jet lathes have a #2 morse taper so any accessories need to be #2. Remember not to tighten the tail stock too tight on the mandrel, they are easily bent.

John Terefenko
09-05-2009, 8:17 PM
My recomendation is to get the adjustable rod type. When doing sierra kits that only require one blank you do not want the empty rod hanging out there and as mentioned a little too much pressure and they are bent. Just a thought.

Greg Haugen
09-05-2009, 8:44 PM
Dan,

Here are some facts on Mandrels-be sure to clarify.

There are two different sizes of Mandrels, there's an A and a B. The "A" (7mm) mandrel cover 90% of the pen kits that are out there. There are a few kits that are designed around a 8 mm mandrel and that's the "B". I'd recommend the "A" for starting out. Woodcraft does carry some of the "b" kits. Their kits are made by "berea hardwoods" with different names on them.

There are two Morse taper options, #1 and #2. #1 is much thinner and is rarely used any more, commonly on much older Sears lathes, etc. The morse taper on jets, deltas, rikons, are all #2.

Don't get these two things mixed up.

I'd also recommend an adjustable mandrel, the length of rod can be adjusted. This will help with single piece pens and you can also turn two piece pens a single piece at a time if you'd like. The longer the mandrel, the more whip and vibrations you'll get. When you're able to adjust that, and not have to use the spacers, it will be a lot better for you.

Any other questions, feel free to ask.

Mike Minto
09-05-2009, 9:38 PM
dan, i'll only echo what the others said - MT2 taper; careful not to bend the mandrel. and get an adjustable one. don't be surprised, though, when you're making a pen and the blanks JUST fit on the mandrel - can be a challenge adjusting the length just right, sometimes. you may have to use a plastic mallet to remove/adjust the shaft - i do. mike

Dan Hunter
09-06-2009, 12:48 AM
Thanks for the replies. Planning on going to Woodcraft on Monday! FYI, in Texas (not sure about other states) most things will be tax free, with the usual exclusions (sawstop, festool, etc.).

Jim McFarland
09-06-2009, 1:21 AM
Another option is to use "between centers" turning without a mandrel. John at penturnersproducts.com sells precision bushings for several pen types. These bushings fit between 60* dead center in the headstock and 60* live center in the tailstock (60* centers also available from John). I recommend both the steel bushings for turning & the Delrin bushings for sanding/finishing.

Although more expensive than mandrel & ordinary bushings, I think they are worth it for the pens I turn frequently. No more "out of round" pens after I converted to this method.

I use a Wood'N'Whimsies adjustable mandrel for the pens I turn less frequently or for which John doesn't offer bushings.

Billy Tallant
09-08-2009, 2:15 AM
Another option to look at on the mandrels is the hand adjustable ones. Woodcraft mandrels require two wrenches to adjust them. Not trying to promote anyone though because I'm a frequent visitor at Woodcraft. PSI carries a new mandrel that is adjusted by hand. Costs a little more but looks to be more easily adjusted since you can hand tighten it.

jason lambert
09-08-2009, 9:41 AM
check out penturners.org also. Just got the standard adjustable mandural to start. If you plan to do alot of pens get 2 of them since onec in a while you may bend the rod. You will also need a 60 deg live center, most are not 60 deg.

Once you get really into it you may not even use a mandural and just turn the bushings between centers, it makes for less error and slop in the set up. But start with the mandral, they will only usally have one type they are not really any differences between brands. Also check out the above site there is a on line place that has a great 60 live center for cheap. If you PM me if you are intrested I will try to dig up the link.

Kyle Iwamoto
09-08-2009, 1:02 PM
Second vote for the PSI mandrel....

Dan Hunter
09-08-2009, 3:46 PM
Thanks for all the info. I did not realize there were so many different options so I skipped the trip to woodcraft until I can figure out exactly what I want. Thanks!

Tony Pridmore
09-08-2009, 10:23 PM
Dan,

I'll throw in another recommendation for turning between centers. You should be able to find a 60 degree dead center for approximately $8. The only other thing you need is a 60 degree live center and you would have to have that for using a mandrel anyway. Try it with the stock bushings and a scrap of wood if you like. Pen tubes are relatively cheap.

I've had good experiences using just the standard bushings. I can't wait to try the bushings from penturnersproducts.com.

Someone above mentioned delrin bushings for sanding and finishing. I haven't used any before, but think they would be great for finishing. However, they probably wouldn't keep their original diameter very long when used for sanding. Maybe you're supposed to use them as sacrificial bushings when sanding so you don't eat up the 60 degree steel bushings.


Tony

Jim McFarland
09-08-2009, 10:44 PM
Dan,

<snip>Someone above mentioned delrin bushings for sanding and finishing. I haven't used any before, but think they would be great for finishing. However, they probably wouldn't keep their original diameter very long when used for sanding. Maybe you're supposed to use them as sacrificial bushings when sanding so you don't eat up the 60 degree steel bushings.


Tony

Tony, that's the way I use the Delrin bushings. I trim to or very near final diameter with the steel bushings and use the Delrin bushings for both sanding & finishing. I want to keep the steel bushings at "new" diameter as long as possible so I avoid sanding with them. The Delrins from penturnersproducts are undersized, anyway: (from the site) "Also, it is .005-.008 per side undersized to create a break in the finish flow to help ease removal from the blank." Mine are actually closer to 0.03 undersized but that's probably because I sand with them :D.

I don't know if this is the way they are supposed to be used -- only that it's worked for me.

Mauricio Ulloa
09-09-2009, 1:03 PM
I like this one that is sold by PSI: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKM-FSM.html

I do all my pens with this one. It has the advantage that it is easily adjustable to fit different sizes of projects.

You need a Morse taper #2 mandrel.

I hope this info is useful to you...!