flattening back of paring chisel: how much?

[Dennis Ryan]

How much of the back of a paring chisel should be flattened? I recently aquired several James Swan chisels, and being brand new, they need quite a bit of flattening (typical of the era?)

Thanks,
Dennis

[Don C Peterson]

With older chisels this does tend to be a "problem."

However, it isn't really a problem unless you make it one. You really only need the first inch or so really flattened. Much less than that and it becomes a bit dicey to register the chisel back against a reference block etc... But much more doesn't tend to help either.

Over time as they edge of the chisel is sharpened away, the back may need some attention again, but I suspect that I won't be around to see it become a problem with my chisels...

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Don. I do a couple inches as that is what is what I can do on the Worksharp in just a few swipes. You are really just trying to do enough to give yourself a good registration surface. I rarely lay the length of the chisel flat on a surface for alignment so an inch or two does me fine.

[harry strasil]

+1 on Don't recommendation, Just think of how much of the back you are gonna use, any more is wasted time and chisel.

[Dennis Ryan]

Thanks,

I usually only flatten a bit, as you suggest, but given these are paring chisels I wasn't sure if there was an advantage to a larger flat. It sounds like there may be an advantage, but only if you own a waterstone or chisel factory.

Dennis

[Robert Rozaieski]

I typically only do 1/4" to 1/2" back from the edge. It saves a lot of time. I've never found flattening the entire face of the iron or chisel very useful.

[lowell holmes]

But it gives you warm fuzzy feelings to see yourself in it. :)

[mike holden]

Dennis,
I am going to disagree with most of the previous posts. IF you are going to use the chisel for paring - i.e. laying the back on the finished surface and cutting off what sticks up above that surface, then the entire back needs to be flat.
If you are not making the entire back flat, then what you have is a bench chisel, NOT a paring chisel.
This is the reason that paring chisels have such a long blade, so you can register the back on the wood surface; and like a plane, the longer the blade on the surface, the flatter surface produced.
To make it sharp requires only a small bit of the back behind the edge to be flat. To make it work as a paring device, then a larger flat surface is required.
Finally, you paid extra for a long blade - make use of it.
Mike

Sorry for the tirade, but as an ex-patternmaker, paring chisels were very special tools used only in very special instances. I have also spent countless hours flattening backs of chisels. mike

[Dennis Ryan]

Dennis,
I am going to disagree with most of the previous posts. IF you are going to use the chisel for paring - i.e. laying the back on the finished surface and cutting off what sticks up above that surface, then the entire back needs to be flat.



Thanks Mike, I appreciate the response.

After spending a pretty long time just getting the tips flat, I am going to hold off on flattening the whole thing until I get a more efficient method of flattening them (There is a recent thread on that one) After all, I want to get all $6 bucks worth ;)

I the mean time, I'm having fun turning out handles for them.

D