Pulled the Trigger - Recommendations

[Jared Greenberg]

I first posted about looking into purchasing a laser engraver back in June2007. This is how I first came to this forum.

Anyways, our Epilog Mini 24, 35 Watt came in on Tuesday, and will a lot of help from our sales rep and some help from tech support I was up and running in about 19 hours. This included my time setting up a room in my basement running around town for the venting and installing the duct work for my vent.

Our company makes baseball bats and we are doing the engraving on the ends (barrel) of the bats. We had been using a vinyl plotter for about 8 years and was slowing us down more than anything. After one day with the engraver, it no doubt will save us time and money.

It will take a little time to become familiar with Corel and finding the tricks to changing text, centering etc. in the fastest/most efficient way possible.

This is where the question comes in. We do stain/lacquer our bats (water based) and after engraving I need to color fill the engraving to match our centre brand color (we use black, silver, white and gold). I went and bought some acrylic paint (in those colors) and tried to fill and then wipe off but it left some residue behind and in the small pores.

Then it was suggested using hair spray before engraving, color fill with the acrylic. I got better residue results but getting the hairspray off is a slow process that requires a lot of rubbing = too long of a time.

I am now onto the Elmer's wood filler - which actually works well. So I think I'm set with white. I also read on here that I can put the acrylic paint into the wood filler.

So I guess my question would be is how much and do you guys think that it would leave the residue of the paint behind?

I would use the above method for black, silver and gold.

I have also order a roll of the laser mask to compare results.

Which might serve my purpose the best. I'm looking for speed and nice results. The results don't have to be of a $400 piece for a customer. The bats will break and as long as they look good I'm happy.

Thanks for your input and help dating all the way back to 2007.

[Dee Gallo]

Jared,

Congrats on getting your Epilog up and running! I have a Mini and it's never let me down.

Regarding your color fill problem: It sounds like your stain/lacquer is not sealing the wood well enough...can a second coat be applied? If there are holes (pores) any paint will settle into it.

I have found that using a fill with a solvent different from the sealer will work best. Oil and water don't mix, kind of thing. Water-based paint will stick to itself, so if you are using a water-based sealer that might be another cause. Maybe you should try a wax layer between them, I believe some other people on this forum recommend floor wax.

What were you using for the past 8 years? The procedure should not be that different. The laser would not make the untouched surface react differently.

Don't forget to add a picture when you have one, we'd love to see your work!

cheers, dee

[Trevor Watson]

Have you tried the Liquid boot polish ? Photograve actually recommend applying clear polish first thenapplying the colored boot polish then wiping off the excess.. I have done this on standard wood tiles and timber HD tiles see how you go just another ember in the fire for you :)


Trevor Watson

[Jared Greenberg]

Have you tried the Liquid boot polish ?


Trevor Watson

Does it come in silver, gold and white?

[Larry Bratton]

The mask is going to give the best results.
Also, WD40 cleans paint off well after filling, especially on finished wood if you want to try that without the mask.
I use a polyester mask and just laser it away with the engraving. What I use is about the same as "laser mask". Some people use paper application tape for mask,it has a lower tack adhesive made for applying cut vinyl.

[Mike Null]

If your bats are made of ash I would anticipate problems with the fill getting into the grain. I've never found a good solution.

[Bill Cunningham]

For me, lacquer works best, a couple of coats with a sanding between them.. Then wrapping some transfer paper (mask) around the bat, laser through the paper, spray the engraved area with lacquer to seal the base and sides, let it dry, then colour fill. That should keep the gold out of the grain, and from creeping under the mask from the sides.. When done, pull off the mask..

[Jared Greenberg]

If your bats are made of ash I would anticipate problems with the fill getting into the grain. I've never found a good solution.

Some are ash. We do 95% maple, nice tight grain.

I tried Elmer's wood filler. Worked better than straight acrylic paint, but not good enough.

Bought some silicone, we'll see if that works tonight.

I got some of the mask coming, I along with several of you think that might give the best results and be the least time consuming.

Do any of you have a quick method of removing the pieces in lets say the "O's" and the "D's". I was thinking a bank card might do the trick.

[Larry Bratton]

Some are ash. We do 95% maple, nice tight grain.

I tried Elmer's wood filler. Worked better than straight acrylic paint, but not good enough.

Bought some silicone, we'll see if that works tonight.

I got some of the mask coming, I along with several of you think that might give the best results and be the least time consuming.

Do any of you have a quick method of removing the pieces in lets say the "O's" and the "D's". I was thinking a bank card might do the trick.
"Do any of you have a quick method of removing the pieces in lets say the "O's" and the "D's". I was thinking a bank card might do the trick."

Unfortunately I have not found a quick method of doing this. I normally pick it out with an Exacto knive. There is also a pick tool that vinyl sign applicators use for weeding. If you discover something, please post it.

[Dee Gallo]

I use a plastic razor blade, they are used by auto painters and won't scratch a finish (or plastic ), or wood if used at a sensible angle. Makes very fast work of removing tiny pieces of tape easily, which I always have in my work.

You can get them from Lee-Valley also.

cheers, dee

[Jared Greenberg]

I use a plastic razor blade, they are used by auto painters and won't scratch a finish (or plastic ), or wood if used at a sensible angle. Makes very fast work of removing
You can get them from Lee-Valley also.

cheers, dee

What are they called on the Lee Valley site?

[Dee Gallo]

They're called plastic razor blades..

... but since you're being lazy ;) : page 255 of the 2008/2009 catalog, bottom right corner. General purpose or Rigid $3.95 for 5 plus holder/ $8.50 for 25 plus holder. I find the Rigid ones break after you bend them with pressure, but they last longer. They both work well.

cheers, dee

[Mark Winlund]

Some are ash. We do 95% maple, nice tight grain.

I tried Elmer's wood filler. Worked better than straight acrylic paint, but not good enough.

Bought some silicone, we'll see if that works tonight.

I got some of the mask coming, I along with several of you think that might give the best results and be the least time consuming.

Do any of you have a quick method of removing the pieces in lets say the "O's" and the "D's". I was thinking a bank card might do the trick.

Try satin rattle can lacquer (clear), then, after drying, use water based acrylic fillers (available at your local craft store). Usually, the lacuer will sand off easily, giving you sharp edges on the engraving filler. I have done lots of oak (very porous) and have had very few problems. After sanding, recoat with the lacquer to seal. Will last forever.

Mark