A-1 Versus B-1 Ply - What's the Difference?

[Jeff Wright]

I am preparing to order UV prefinished 3/4-inch ply for a new kitchen. My supplier says they cannot get A-1 but can get B-1 prefinished ply. Price, by the way, is $72 per sheet.

I would prefer to use the best stuff.

1] Do you think there is a huge difference in quality between A-1 and B-1?

2] If prefinished on one side, which side is prefinished: the B side or the "1" side?

3] Does the "1" rating of both the A-1 and B-1 panels mean that they are equal in quality on the "1" side?

I suppose if the answer to 3] is that the "1" side of each panel is the same in quality, AND the "1" is the prefinished side (the only side showing in the completed carcass), then it makes sense to use a B-1 panel rather than paying extra for an A-1 panel even if I could locate a source for it.

[Andy Sowers]

The letter "A" in "A-1" refers to the grading of the veneer on the best side... while the second number "1" refers to the grading of the backside of the ply.

Here's a link which describes the differences between all the veneer grades... http://www.awi-wa.com/_hidden/T_ANSI.htm.

So all things equal, A-1 and B-1 will have a veneer on the backside should be roughly the same, while the A-1 will have a better "good" side...

HTH...
Andy

[Jeff Wright]

The letter "A" in "A-1" refers to the grading of the veneer on the best side... while the second number "1" refers to the grading of the backside of the ply.

Here's a link which describes the differences between all the veneer grades... http://www.awi-wa.com/_hidden/T_ANSI.htm.

So all things equal, A-1 and B-1 will have a veneer on the backside should be roughly the same, while the A-1 will have a better "good" side...

HTH...
Andy

So Andy, does that mean that the prefinish will be applied to Side A or Side B?

[Thomas S Stockton]

Usually both sides are prefinished. If your using the plywood for the cabinet boxes and it will be hidden behind drawers and doors a-1 is probably overkill. When I made cabinets I usually used c-3 or shop grade for the boxes especially the lowers. I would either buy a higher grade for uppers that had glass doors or use the nicest pieces for them it is not hard to find a 12" piece in lower grades that looks great. I would not use prefinished for anything that wasn't hidden behind doors or drawers, I never found the finish high enough quality for this.
Tom

[Jeff Wright]

Usually both sides are prefinished. If your using the plywood for the cabinet boxes and it will be hidden behind drawers and doors a-1 is probably overkill. When I made cabinets I usually used c-3 or shop grade for the boxes especially the lowers. I would either buy a higher grade for uppers that had glass doors or use the nicest pieces for them it is not hard to find a 12" piece in lower grades that looks great. I would not use prefinished for anything that wasn't hidden behind doors or drawers, I never found the finish high enough quality for this.
Tom

Thanks Tom. I plan to apply face frames that will be painted. Any ends of cabs will have a raised panel applied to conceal any ply sides. So it seems that the prefinished panels would be fine since that will show only in and behind doors and drawers.

[Jeff Duncan]

B-1 is the norm for pre-finished maple, I don't think any of my suppliers even carry A-1. If it's a domestic product you should be fine, it's generally very clean. I can't vouch for the offshore stuff coming in, if that's what your getting, your on your own.

good luck,
JeffD

[Chris Tsutsui]

A while back I got sheets of 3/4" Maple A-1 MDF ply p/s for $72ea locally, though it was unfinished.

MDF will be heavier, but if you're set on the A-1 maple then maybe they have factory laminated "A-grade MDF"...