Chainsaw Recs Needed, plus related questions

[Tom LaRussa]

Can anybody recommend a good (or at least decent) quality chain saw for under $200, (preferably under $150)? I want to use it to rough slab storm downed logs for drying and later resawing.

Are electric chain saws any good? They seem to be cheaper...

Also, does anyone have any experience with either the Mini-Mill, http://www.right-tool.com/minimill.html or the Alaskan Mill, http://www.right-tool.com/alsmallogcha.html or similar products?

TIA,

Tom

[Jim Becker]

Tom, I keep an 18" electric "in the shop" for convenience, but would not consider it hefty enough for regular use in knocking down logs unless it would be for cross-cutting...not nearly enough power for slabbing and it is unlikely you could easily get a rip chain for one either. If you are going to invest in a chainsaw, invest a little more and get a quality product. Stihl, Husquvarna, etc., should be on your short list. Why? You'll likely end up upgrading in a short time anyway when the "consumer grade" machine from the home center dies and that money will be "sunk" with no chance of getting anything back. I made that mistake when we moved to this property and the saw I originaly bought was killed after only one tree. After throwing the $200 machine in the trash I went out and put $300 towards a Stihl Farm Boss .029 with an 18" bar and haven't looked back since. Starts easier. Maintains easier. Cuts better by far.

BTW, the Alaskan mill requires a very sturdy machine. Wimpy saws need not apply. That's real work!

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Regarding Chain Saws, I couldn't have said it any better than Jim. Good, solid advice. Having used Chainsaws professionally for many years, and now using them about as hard for firewood and processing turning blanks, I have always bought and used Stihl and I consider them to be among the best. I have the same saw that Jim now owns, the Pro model, and it rocks. Starts every time, and it will work as hard as you can push it. Now days, I wear out WAY faster than the Stihl! ;)
It may cost a little more up front, but it is worth every cent. A good quality saw, like a Stihl, if maintained properly, will likely be the last saw you ever buy. :)

[Martin Shupe]

Stihl Farm Boss. You won't regret it.

[Greg Tatum]

Hi Tom...I have some experience with both the mini and the Alaskan....I was just using the mill yesterday as a matter of fact, till I cut/tore/crushed my little finger when moving the log :mad: ...(pic posted in another thread)

I always used a big saw for slabbing because ripping down the length of a log is very hard on the saw and the operator...most everyone who uses a chainsaw mill will advise using not less than 70cc saw and that is the low low end. Stihl 044 is a good example....Logosaw uses a 066 I believe....I use a Husky 395XP with great results. Unfortunatly, all the good milling saws cost about $600 and up new.

Now, what I'm using on the current log is a Jonsered with only about a 55cc engine; it's my bucking saw....the wood is very hard a the going is slow but I have loaned out the Husky with my larger mill to a friend with a downed cedar and a need for a fence.

With the Red I have to give the saw a rest because the almost constant throttling will take its toll on the saw. It's not so bad with softwoods but still slow.

Like Jim, I first started with a low priced saw...a poulan...it didn't last at all. 4 10' Doug fir logs and that was real slow....they just don't hold up.

Why do you want to mill with a chainsaw? I ask because you really have to enjoy it and the setup process or you might be swearing at yourself. It is very laborious and back breaking at times....if it is just once in a while, like for me, I fnd it relaxing from what I normally do. It requires all my attention so I can escape my "Day Job" while milling.

You don't need to use a ripping chain but with a small saw it will definately help go faster and with less strain on the saw....it leaves a rougher surface, also. You can make a modified rip chain by grinding away 1/2 the width of every third tooth and grinding the cutting edge of the others to 0-10 degrees....the thinner teeth act as scoring blades. Also, less teeth in the log means a faster cut and less saw strain.

Slabbing logs with a chainsaw mill is hard, noisy, dirty, itchy, heavy,and I really enjoy it :D

Use a big saw and go to the yahoo groups "milling group"
for some great info, tips and links.

[John Shuk]

I'm about to put a Stihl 025 on EBAY for a friend. It is 2 years old and very well cared for. It has one brand new blade and one used but sharp blade the sheath a 16" bar and a sharpening tool. Manual and all. He wants about $110 plus shipping. Let me know via E-Mail LEVUK@optonline.net

[John Shuk]

I guess I forgot to say that if you aren't interested in the saw I have then I would get a Stihl. I own a couple of Stihls both electric and gas and one husqavuarna and I like the Stihl alot more. Electric saws aren't worth it. The stihl I have is about the best electric on the market but gas is head and shoulders above.

[Mark Stutz]

Like many others, I started with a 16" electric from the Borg. Not worth it for anything over about 8"crosscutting. Stihl Farm Boss is the way to go. I'd be money ahead if I would have done that from the beginning!

[Frank Pellow]

I agree with Jim's Becker's advise. Like him I have an electric chain saw for small trimming work but I would never condsider it for tree cutting. For that I have both a Husquvarna with a 26" blade and a Poulan Pro with a 20" blade. I have had the Husquavarna for about 20 years and it owes me nothing because of all the work that I have done using it. But the Husquavarna is expensive, and it is heavy, and it is somewhat cantankerous. Two years ago, I bought a Poulan Pro 295 and it is a lot easier to use. It can do about 95% of the lumbering that I now want to do and, at about $300 Canadian, it is a lot less expensive than the Husquavarna

[Joe Mioux]

Stihl, There is nothing better.

Stihl uses 50:1 oil mixture. I learned along time ago buy all your 2 cycle power equipment that uses the same ratio. That way you only have ONE gas can that services ALL your 2 cycle engines. With that said I do have a commercial Shindawa weed eater that uses 40:1 gas oil ratio. I kind of shoot for the middle, i.e. 45:1 gas oil mixture and use it for my Stihl chain saw, Stihl leaf blower, Stihl hedge trimmer and the Shindawa weed eater.

Buy a Stihl. Anything in the .02x i.e..023, .025. or .029. You won't regret buying a Stihl chain saw.

Joe

[Tom Sweeney]

I have a poulan electric, that I inherited for free, that works very well for processing turning blanks. Plenty of power, just doesn't clear the chips as well as a gas one.

I needed a chainsaw & was low on funds so I bought an 18" Poulan "wild thing" at the Borg. Yeah it was wild, for 2 days then the engine puked. The engine overheated & scored the cylinder so there was no compression. Poulan refused to cover it under warranty, used it for 2 days remember, because they said I obviously used too lean of a mix. Only problem with that is it is the same 5 gallons of mix I used forever on my weedwacker, leaf blower & the big Stihl I rented, for 2 days, to take the huge tree down that I was going to use the poulan to cut up. None them burned up. Get a Stihl or Husky I think. I might go for the Husky when I have the coin for one, only because there is a good dealer right up the road from me.

Frank, I'm surprised you find the poulan pro adequate. I borrowed a friends & thought it was seriously lacking in power, even less than the wild thing for the 2 days it worked - which I don't understand. His was a brand new factory recon unit - only a few weeks old when I borrowed it. I had thought of buying the same unit, 2 ebay outfits sell them for about $110, but after using it I think I'll save my pennies for a good one. Now with your recomendation - I'm thinking about it again, except for the fact that Poulan stiffed me once so why buy again ??????? :confused:

[Jerry Olexa]

Strong reco for STIHL. Avoid electric, not enough power,,, Gas is best and Stihl best of them

[Frank Pellow]

...

Frank, I'm surprised you find the poulan pro adequate.

Is it the 295 that you tried? In the week before Labour Day, mine was in use for about 20 hours and we took down and cut up about 20 trees. One of the trees even had a diameter larger than the chain. If you have not yet done so, look at the "logging pictures" in the thread I submitted last week about my projects at Pellow's Camp.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom.....28 years ago I bought a pro-model McColluch(sp?)....they aren't in business anymore......Today all the loggers here use the Stihls......When I bought my Mac I just wanted to cut firewood for use at home....I bought a pro model as I didn't want the problems associated with cheaper models. A few weeks ago I bought a Stihl gas trimmer for home use. I talked with the Stihl dealer about my chainsaw....I still use it occasionally. He told me it was a great saw but you can't get parts for it anymore. Buy a pro-model Stihl!

[David Klug]

I have an electric which I love for pruning trees, but I sure wouldn't want to use it on any thing larger than 8" in dia.

DK

[Greg Tatum]

Tom, I forgot to mention something....the size of your saw will determine the size of lumber you cut....A saw that will only allow for a 20" bar will only give you 13-14" between the clamps on the Alaskan....sounds like plenty but when making the 1st slabbing and squaring cuts it can be difficult without doing a bit of trimming....if you can get the cant down to that size you are home free and making lumber....if you think you will only cut small logs then a small saw will work

Don't try to put a bigger bar on than is recommended by the manufacturer....a saw is rated to pull a set range of chain length at a set rpm range.....to much chain(longer bar) and you'll not have the power to pull it. This could damage the engine.

IMHO, picking a chainsaw make for milling comes down to only 3...Stihl, Husquvarna or Jonsered(made by same co. that makes Husqy, Electrlux!).
And, like so many things these days, quality of any of the new saws is nothing close to the reputation earned from their earlier days.

I own 1 of each in different power ranges...044, 395 and 2051....my "go to" milling saw is the 395 'cause its the biggest....I've used a Stihl 088 and I think that it is the best saw to mill with by far...big, heavy sucker...120cc I think and real aggressive....that's what you get with a Stihl...like the pitbull of chainsaws....torqy low end power that is good for milling.

Too much info? Just get the Stihl 066 and you will be able to cut anything...I think it will even pull a 36" bar.

Greg

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Tom,

I'll throw something else into the mix, sharpening the chain. Do ou already have a chian grinder? I sharpen by hand with an Oregon brand guide that clamps onto the bar but I'm not trying to mill lumber.

The cheaper chain grinder through Northern tool is about what you want to spend on a saw. Harbor frieght has chain grinder for $65. Does any one have info on it?

I'll also through in another brand Echo saws are high quaility.

Also buy from a servicing dealer rather than a borg if you can. This relationship will serve you well if you intend on running the saw a lot.

[Kevin Beck]

I think any of the following saws will work fine for a long time:

Stihl
Husky (or Jonsered)
Dolmar/Makita
Redmax
Echo

I live in Central Florida and I don't have to use a chainsaw for firewood. I bought an Echo CS301 top handle (12" bar) for trimming around the house and cutting up an oak tree that Hurricane Charley knocked down. It works fine and will do 99% of what I need to do with a chainsaw. If I need anything bigger I borrow my brother's 16" Echo.

If I needed a bigger chainsaw I'd likely buy a Stihl as they have more area dealers than Husky. It seems that Husky has driven away some full service dealers with their relationship with Lowes.

I think the Dolmar is a really nice saw (as are Redmax and the others) but I'm reluctant to buy a saw that doesn't have a local dealer for service.

You might check the arborist forum for more information.

Kevin

[Tom Sweeney]

Is it the 295 that you tried?

I think the one I used was a 295 - might have been a 260 - I'll have to double check that. The ebay store has both - 260 is 42CC with 18" chain the 295 is 46CC with 20" chain. Maybe it was the smaller one that I used??? :confused:

[David Tang]

I just bought a ... (ducking the rotten vegetables) Craftsman for about $150. It came with a case, extra chain, blah blah blah. I know what you are thinking: he should have checked here first. I was actually at the Stihl dealer looking at the $289 MS250 before heading over to Sears to buy the Craftsman with similar specs to the Stihl. I only needed it for limbing some fallen trees and cheaped out. If the Sears saw craps out, I'll know to heed the experts here next time.

[David Tang]

I'm about to put a Stihl 025 on EBAY for a friend. It is 2 years old and very well cared for. It has one brand new blade and one used but sharp blade the sheath a 16" bar and a sharpening tool. Manual and all. He wants about $110 plus shipping. Let me know via E-Mail LEVUK@optonline.net
If I didn't already buy my Sears saw, I'd scoop this one up. That's a great price.

[Tom LaRussa]

To: Everybody

Thanks for all the advice!

Here's my plan:

[1] Electric is out;

[2] For the particular job that I have to do this weekend I'm renting a Husky from Nations (attached to Lowes);

[3] For the near to intermediate term, I'm going to purchase John Shuk's friend's Stihl 025. Plus, I'm looking at buying a Mini-Mill.





Why do you want to mill with a chainsaw? I ask because you really have to enjoy it and the setup process or you might be swearing at yourself.
I'll only be doing it occasionally, when I find a nice log for free (or at least nearly so). It's tough to get decent wood at a decent price down here in FL, but we have tons of hardwood trees in dozens of species/varieties, and everytime we have a big storm, (which is pretty often), a whole bunch of the suckers come crashing down. In short, it seems like at least a partial long-term solution to my lumber supply problem. :D




You can make a modified rip chain by grinding away 1/2 the width of every third tooth and grinding the cutting edge of the others to 0-10 degrees....the thinner teeth act as scoring blades. Also, less teeth in the log means a faster cut and less saw strain.
Cool. That one goes into the permanent file! :)

[Tom LaRussa]

I live in Central Florida and I don't have to use a chainsaw for firewood.
Kevin
Kevin,

So, I guess you use gas heat to get through the long, frozen winters, eh? ;) :D