Repeatable thin rip cuts on TS on left side of blade

[Dan Karachio]

I would like to use a table saw to make repeatable thin (3/16") rip cuts on the left side of the blade to keep things safe. I see Rockler has a simple and inexpensive jig, but I swear I recently read something in a woodworking magazine on the same subject (some kind of reader tip maybe) and I remember thinking, "Man is that smart." Of course, I have torn through all my magazines and can't find it.

[Tim Boger]

I would like to use a table saw to make repeatable thin (3/16") rip cuts on the left side of the blade to keep things safe. I see Rockler has a simple and inexpensive jig, but I swear I recently read something in a woodworking magazine on the same subject (some kind of reader tip maybe) and I remember thinking, "Man is that smart." Of course, I have torn through all my magazines and can't find it.


Here is a pic of what I think you're referring to, I have one and find it works as advertised. Simple design.

Tim

[Dan Karachio]

Yep, thanks for the endorsement Tim! It is on sale for $15 - I just ordered one. Still, I wish I could find that article... the problem is there are simply too many great bits of information out there in the world to keep track of.

[Tom Hamilton]

Dan, the article I saw most recently on this subject showed screws protruding at various lengths from the edge of a board. The measuring board had a piece screwed to the bottom and fit into the miter slot.

Move your stock to the left past the blade until it touches the 3/16" protruding screw, remove the measuring block and make the cut. Repeat until done.

The pictured device had five or six different screws in the edge giving that many different cutoff width options.

Shop Notes I think was/is the source.

Best regards, Tom

[Rod Sheridan]

I would like to use a table saw to make repeatable thin (3/16") rip cuts on the left side of the blade to keep things safe. I see Rockler has a simple and inexpensive jig, but I swear I recently read something in a woodworking magazine on the same subject (some kind of reader tip maybe) and I remember thinking, "Man is that smart." Of course, I have torn through all my magazines and can't find it.

Dan, you need a strip cutting sled.

It's a piece of wood about 6 inches wide with a slight stop on the trailing end.

It acts as a push block for the material being cut, the strip is on the right of the blade along with the sled.

The extra material is to the left of the blade.

No need to move anything as the strip width is the fence to blade distance, minus the sled width.

Nikki has a great post on making a vacuum strip sled, complete with photographs.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=73856

Regards, Rod.

[jerry nazard]

Here is a recent thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=118815

[John Terefenko]

This is the one I made and it works great.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/JTTHECLOCKMAN/IMGP0311.jpg

[Scott Hildenbrand]

I'd seen a setup like that where they made a bearing at the end for it to glide against. All in all it works well any way it's done. Just set it against the bade, then back up until the cut thickness you want is reached. Then just edge the fence over with each cut till it lightly butts up against the jig glide surface.

[Rick Metcalf]

What is really important, as is shown in all the post pictures, is a zero clearance insert.

[Chris Tsutsui]

Don't you guys just use the thin strip ripping jig to set the fence distance, then remove the jig and make the cut?

That vacuum jig is neat.

[Cody Colston]

Don't you guys just use the thin strip ripping jig to set the fence distance, then remove the jig and make the cut?

That vacuum jig is neat.

With the Rockler jig and the shop made jig John showed, the fence has to be moved for every cut and the jig stays in place to reference the stock against.

I would rather place the fence in one position and use a sacrificial push shoe to rip the strips right of the blade. With the shoe, the strips can be pushed beyond the blade when ripped without them getting trapped between fence and blade. If the saw blade is set with only 3 teeth above the stock, the kerf cut into the shoe is shallow and the blade will follow that same kerf every rip cut.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Beyond having the strip launched back at you, what are the down sides to ripping thin strips to the right?

I don't think a cut like that, on either side, would be wise at all without a zero clearance insert.. ;)

[Lee Koepke]

Dan, the article I saw most recently on this subject showed screws protruding at various lengths from the edge of a board. The measuring board had a piece screwed to the bottom and fit into the miter slot.

Move your stock to the left past the blade until it touches the 3/16" protruding screw, remove the measuring block and make the cut. Repeat until done.

The pictured device had five or six different screws in the edge giving that many different cutoff width options.

Shop Notes I think was/is the source.

Best regards, Tom
I read the same article a few weeks ago and made that jig. Simple and seems to work just fine. Took 10 minutes.

[Larry Lukens]

Dan, you need a strip cutting sled.

I made one. I like the fact that I don't have to move the rip fence. I made a jig like the Rocker one. It works, but requires moving the rip fence for every cut. The sled is dead simple, predictable, and safe, since it has a built-in pusher strip at the back. I "snazzed" mine up by making the back strip adjustable for different strip widths. Just cut a slot in the back strip and screwed it to the sled. Also makes replacing the backing strip easy.

[Bruce Wrenn]

ShopNotes, vol 16, issue 94, featured on the cover. Also, Wood had one a couple years back.

[Richard Jones]

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/105/extras/thin-strip-ripping-jig/

[Scott Hildenbrand]

That's the one I saw... Figures it's in Shopnotes.. Swear they have every kewl jig known to man.

[Sam Blanchard]

That's the one I saw... Figures it's in Shopnotes.. Swear they have every kewl jig known to man.

Copy that:D