Cabinet saw bearing problem.

[Dave Lehnert]

I have a JET cabinet saw that makes a noise like a " roar" when I power down. most noticeable just before the blade comes to a stop. I think it may be coming from the arbor (bearing?) The arbor is not lose at all.

Before I tear into the saw what is the best way to trouble shoot what the problem is? If it is the bearing, how hard is it to replace? Are they pressed in?

A little history. I tightened the belts just before the problem started. I took the slack off but did not help with the noise.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Dave, remove the belts, rotate the arbour by hand and you should be able to tell if the bearings are bad.

Once the belts are off, you can also start the motor and see how it sounds.

Regards, Rod.

[Robert Reece]

I recently replaced the bearings on my Jet cabinet saw. Fairly simply job if you are handy.
When I took my saw apart to clean and lube, I used a big screwdriver to listen to the bearings (tip on the trunnion and handle on my ear). It really worked! They clicked on each rotation. My saw was 10 years old and not used that much (just a hobbiest).
I also used my wife's stethoscope and that worked even better.

[Dave Lehnert]

I recently replaced the bearings on my Jet cabinet saw. Fairly simply job if you are handy.
When I took my saw apart to clean and lube, I used a big screwdriver to listen to the bearings (tip on the trunnion and handle on my ear). It really worked! They clicked on each rotation. My saw was 10 years old and not used that much (just a hobbiest).
I also used my wife's stethoscope and that worked even better.

Thats about the age of my saw. If I turn the arbor by hand It will kinda "click" in one spot. I have one of the cheap Harbor Freight stethoscope that may work.

Are the bearings pressed in or do they just bolt up?

[Robert Reece]

I had one bearing click in one spot. You might as well replace them if you have the time. I got mine at Advance Auto, it is a very common bearing. You can probably look at my old posts to find the number. Just make sure you get the sealed bearings, Advance had them unsealed and sealed.

The bearings are pressed into recesses in the trunnion. You really have to get the trunnion out to have a reasonable chance at getting the arbor assembly out. I had to use gear pullers and some other persuasion (a large screwdriver as a pry bar) to get the trunnion off. But once off, I had the arbor off in 15 minutes.

[Dave Lehnert]

I had one bearing click in one spot. You might as well replace them if you have the time. I got mine at Advance Auto, it is a very common bearing. You can probably look at my old posts to find the number. Just make sure you get the sealed bearings, Advance had them unsealed and sealed.

The bearings are pressed into recesses in the trunnion. You really have to get the trunnion out to have a reasonable chance at getting the arbor assembly out. I had to use gear pullers and some other persuasion (a large screwdriver as a pry bar) to get the trunnion off. But once off, I had the arbor off in 15 minutes.

So no need to order bearings from JET, Thanks! I will look into that.
Did you need a "press" to press the bearings in or were you able to use a "c" clamp or the like. I have no experience with replacing bearings but handy enough that it should not be a problem. Just tring to figure out if I need to have it done. (I would remove the arbor myself)

[Bruce Wrenn]

My money says the bearings are most likely 6203's. This probably the most common size of bearing. Be sure and buy SEALED, rather than shielded. On line, or mail order you can get them for about $2.00 each. NAPA gets $17.00 for one, which is made in South America.

[Dave Lehnert]

I had one bearing click in one spot. You might as well replace them if you have the time. I got mine at Advance Auto, it is a very common bearing. You can probably look at my old posts to find the number. Just make sure you get the sealed bearings, Advance had them unsealed and sealed.

The bearings are pressed into recesses in the trunnion. You really have to get the trunnion out to have a reasonable chance at getting the arbor assembly out. I had to use gear pullers and some other persuasion (a large screwdriver as a pry bar) to get the trunnion off. But once off, I had the arbor off in 15 minutes.

I just looked up your post on the subject.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=114413
I even posted in the thread. :o

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

[Robert Reece]

I didn't have a bearing press so I had to improvise. Obviously getting the old bearings off is less delicate than getting the new ones on. I tried heating the bearing on a 100W light bulb, but I started smelling burning oil smell so I decided that was far enough. The bearing didn't go on the arbor.
I ended up driving the arbor onto one of the bearings. The arbor fit through a round dog hole in my workbench, so the bearing stayed supported on the bench. I might have also used a large socket at some point to drive one on or off. I just don't remember all the details.
Just make sure when you are driving the new bearings to stay on the solid inside ring of the bearing, not on the shield which doesn't have much behind it.
If you get into it and have questions, just let me know (PM would probably be most proficient). I'll have to poke my head into my saw to refresh my memory.

[Josiah Bartlett]

Put the arbor in the freezer for several hours before you reinstall the bearings, and they should be much easier to press on.

[Brian Runau]

you could try the industrial bearing houses in your area. Should be less expensive than the auto stores.

[Bob Aquino]

Dave
To verify the bearings are bad, remove the belts and the blade and spin the arbor by hand, you should be able to feel any roughness in the rotation. Yes you can use a stethoscope if you think it helps.

To replace bearings, you will need to remove the top and take out the arbor. Bearings should be pressed out and in. You can tap them out with a screwdriver and tap them in using some sort of cylinder like a pipe, but be very careful that you dont damage the bearing. I did the bearings on a delta 12" saw without a press, but a press is best for sure. Also, be careful as to what bearings you put in. Go with a name brand bearing like Nachi. Stay far away from no-name chinese bearings. I hate to say it, but thats probably what you have in there right now and at ten years old you are looking at replacing them. Name brand quality bearings are not much more expensive and will last a very long time. Over at owwm, they like to use http://www.accuratebearing.com/ for bearings. Ask for Lynne.

[Rich Aldrich]

I have a Grizzly 1023 which had similar symptoms. It also vibrated when it ran. I couldnt detect looseness, but I figured it was. Then the blade started to move sideways - the rips were wider than the setting when the blade was stationary. When I changed bearings, I found the bearings were spinning on the arbor. I also changed the arbor. I was without my saw for about a week. Grizzly was very good about getting the parts to me - this was over 4th of July week last year.

I checked the recommended bearing fit in the SKF catalog and checked the arbor dimensions with a micrometer. They did check out on the new parts.

My saw now runs smooth and cuts accurate.

[Dave Lehnert]

UPDATE

I called JET just to see what they had to say about my problem. And also get any advice on removing the arbor. The Tech on the line right away said "Check the arbor pulley, Make sure the set screws are tight"
He sounded so sure right away that it was not the arbor bearings. Could tell he was very experienced employee did not have to think about his answer or look anything up.

Long story short, he was 100% correct. The pulley set screws on the arbor was very loose. Boy did he ever save me a lot of unnecessary work. Even had someone lined up to press the bearings in when I got the arbor removed.

Very happy with JET customer service right now.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/818134.jpg

[Chip Lindley]

I was gonna mention to check the pulley set screws, but....

That *clicking* in your arbor bearings still ain't goin' away! At least remove the belts and turn the arbor by hand. The arbor should turn like it is swimming in thick grease; not like dry rattling ball bearings. It should not spin freely with a flick of the finger, but actually offer a little resistance to spinning. There should be NO play between the bearing and its' housing in the arbor.

[J.R. Rutter]

I have a Grizzly 1023 which had similar symptoms. It also vibrated when it ran. I couldnt detect looseness, but I figured it was. Then the blade started to move sideways - the rips were wider than the setting when the blade was stationary. When I changed bearings, I found the bearings were spinning on the arbor. I also changed the arbor. I was without my saw for about a week. Grizzly was very good about getting the parts to me - this was over 4th of July week last year.

I checked the recommended bearing fit in the SKF catalog and checked the arbor dimensions with a micrometer. They did check out on the new parts.

My saw now runs smooth and cuts accurate.

Wow, maybe that desperate SawStop from a couple of weeks ago salesman heard your story!

I redid the arbor bearings on a General 350 that had run with a feeder in a production setting for 10 years plus. Just be sure to press on the portion of the bearing that is being fitted (inside or outside) so that you don't destroy the fit tolerance.