Tool sharpening tool?

[Dustin Lorenz]

Besides a very old bench grinder with only one very old wheel, I have no sharpening equipment and am looking to buy. I have some ideas I would like to run by you guys and gals and see what input you might be able to give me. Should I get a slow speed grinder? I do plan on also buying a lunch box planer and have some hand me down planes from Graps that will also need sharpening. Does anyone have any input on the Worksharp sytems? Should I get a bench grinder? What speed should it be? I am not a total stranger to sharpening, I do a fair amount of sharpening at work for lathe and mill tooling. There we have a surface grinder and a bench grinder. I am also not sure on what grits I should have as the wheels at work are ordered by the machinist.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Dustin - there are a lot of us that use the Woodcraft Slow Speed grinder and the Oneway Wolverine sharpening systems and are quite happy with the repeatable results.

Here is one vendor who is running a special on both systems: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020355/21979/Woodturner-s-Sharpening-Kit.aspx

As far as grits for your wheels - each turner has their own preferences. I use a 120 grit and 150 grit wheels because once the shape of the edge is what I want - all I want to do is touch it to the wheel to freshen the edge and get back to turning.

Here is the 120 grit wheel I have: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000216/919/Aluminum-Oxide-Grinding-Wheel--White--120-Grit--8-x-1.aspx
Here is the 150 grit: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10088&filter=grinding%20wheel

Hope that helps.

[Mark Burge]

Dustin, I have been using the Worksharp 3000 and have been pretty happy with the results. I am a novice when it comes to sharpening and have been able to get all my tools sharp with this system. The see-through wheels are a must for sharpening gouges. You can really see where you are removing metal.

[Ryan Baker]

I agree with everyting Stteve said.

You definitely will need a bench grinder (8" if possible) and something like the Wolverine jig. It doesn't have to be a slow-speed grinder, but that can be nice. If your existing grinder works OK, you may be able to get some new wheels for it and use it just fine.

For the lunchbox planer, I would recommend that you don't even consider sharpening them. Most are meant to be disposable. I wouldn't even try to sharpen them on something like a Tormek.

Things like plane blades and chisels require a different solution. One option is to do those by hand. Other options include wet systems (Tormek being the best -- but most expensive) and the Worksharp. The Worksharp seems like a good package -- at first. Personally, I didn't find it really suit my needs well at all. It is primarily designed to do things like bench chisels (when you can get it to produce a square edge). YMMV. If you are looking for a single solution for everything, it might be an acceptable compromise for you. Try it before you buy one and see whether it works for you.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Budget? I always have to suggest the Tormek.:)

Just something to consider. More people here like the Wolverine, but I like the Tormek, it can sharpen everything in your house. It is more expensive. There's a lot of debate on this.

Oh yeah, it does have a jig for planer blades, but that alone is around a hundred bucks, so buying new blades may be "cheaper", but many say that the factory edge can still be sharpened. If you sharpen the blades a few times, you'll save money.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm a happy Worksharp user. The angled port on the bottom makes sharpening blades under 2" jig-free and simple.

The only downside is that for larger blades, you either need your own jig for topside sharpening or you need to purchase the wide blade attachment.

Of course, you can always do scary sharp. But you'll get faster results with these systems.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a Lee Valley belt grinder that I use a lot, as well as an 8" variable speed grinder.

I also have waterstones and abrasive paper/granite plate for sharpening.

Oh and a leather belt for the belt grinder, as well as a couple of different shaped slip stones, and contoured leather strops for carving tools.

And some cone sharpeners for hollow mortiser chisels, auger files, some other files and a couple burnishers........Geez, I'm a sharpening junkie!:D

For woodworking chisels and plane blades you'll need a grinder for basic shaping, then stones or abrasive paper for actual cutting edge formation.

Turning tools are used straight from the grinder.

I like the belt grinder a lot, I put a reversing motor on mine, and being able to change grits by changing belts is very handy.

Regards, Rod.

[Dustin Lorenz]

Thanks for all the help guys, I think I'm going to start out with the 8 inch grinder at 1725rpm and I believe I can make my own sharpening fixture like the wolverine. I have two months left before the fabrication shop I work at closes it's doors. :mad: Later on down the road I will most likely pickup one of the slow speed wet grinders. Seems to be a good machine for hand plane blades, which I have also been acquiring. You got to love a healthy addiction! :p Any insight on the grizzly slow/wet models? Do you guys ever dip your tools in water while grinding? I imagine you don't have to take off very much unless you are changing the shape though. I have always been use to having a trough of water handy to dip my metal lathe tools and drill bits into while grinding. I was always told if you hear it sizzle when it hits the water or if it gets to hot for bare hands you are grinding to hard/long.

[Ryan Baker]

If you are sharpening carbon steel then yes, you should be dipping in water to keep it cool and don't let the edge blue. If you are working on high speed steel, you shouldn't dip it in water. A little bluing on an HSS tool will not hurt it, but you are grinding too much/hard if you get to that point.

(PS, I do have a Tormek, and I know there is a planer blade jig for it. I still wouldn't consider using it for lunchbox planer blades. YMMV)

[David Drickhamer]

A few years ago I was looking for a grinder and decided to try the Jet Slow Speed Wet Sharpener and have never been sorry. I've been able to sharpen anything I need with jigs that are available or home made.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005883/23154/Jet-Slow-Speed-Wet-Sharpener-JSSG-10.aspx
Dave

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dustin I did exactly what you are talking about doing. I got the slow speed with the wolverine. Now I have the Tormek and love it. I use the slow speed to shape and the tormek to sharpen.

[Phillip Bogle]

I started doing the sharpening for a business some time ago. I own one of most everything on the market, so I have some hands on experience. Wet Grinder. I know there are many that will holler about this but in my experience, I have tried the others and the Tormek is the only right choice. I own two, one with the standard stone, and one with a Japanese waterstone. If you are not doing any turning tools but a lot of plane and planer blades the WorkSharp 3000 will do a nice job. If you are doing the turning tools, you may want to consider the newest route. The Tormek BGM-100. It is brand new and you will need a slow speed bench grinder (like the ones suggested) and a 120 grit wheel as well. The BGM-100 mounts infront of the slow speed wheel and uses most every jig that Tormek makes. This gives you faster shaping of the tool at a lower price. The BGM is under $60 and and the jigs are regular priced. Then IF you wish you can move to the Tormek wet system and hone and razor finish. Both wet and dry will retain the same shape. You will need to be aware that you WILL lose some steel. The bench grinder goes through the tool much faster than the wet system. IF you are doing any carving tools they will need a totally different solution. The word to the wise is that you need a very good idea of what you will sharpen the most, some, and the least, to not at all. Make a list and then compare solutions, and features according to your list.
Hope that helps a bit.
Phil