New Table Saw or restore old one

[Bob Cross]

I have a craftsman 10" TS that I bought back in 1989. It has a nice cast iron top and extensions. The plate on the motor says the HP is w.746 . It had some vibrations as most contractor models do so I removed the pulleys and was going to replace them with machined/balanced ones and get a power twist belt.

Now to the question...

I want to do some woodworking in my shop, hobby stuff and try building some furniture pieces. Do you think I would be better off buying the pulleys and belt for this saw...it also would need a good rip fence, or upgrading to a better saw with more power. I have 110V in my shop but have the option of 220V.

Any advice, thoughts or recommendations greatly appreciated.

Bob

[Karl Brogger]

See if you can find a good used Powermatic Model 66, or a Delta Unisaw. The market is pretty well flooded with used equipment right now, and there is alot good deals to be had.

[Fred Hargis]

I'd look for a good used one like Karl suggested. The cost of the fence along with the pulleys you need would go a long way toward paying for it.

[Colin Wollerman]

For what it is worth I restored a really old Craftsman TS once. It was a fun project, I got some parts off of ebay...When it came time to do real work the ol craftsman could not compete. I sold it for a steal on craigs and bought a second hand Dewalt job site saw with the rack & pinion fence. I love it! Small for cab work so I use a track saw (EZ) for cuts over 20"
I don't have room for a "real" Table saw, wish I did, but this system works for me.
Aloha,
Colin

[Jim Rimmer]

I asked the same question awhile back and was nudged towards the refurb of my old Craftsman (80's vintage). I started down that path and because of a questionable switch design and dumb move on my part I burned the motor up. It was direct drive so I was stopped. I bought a Grizzly G0661 and couldn't be happier. Fortunately the Incra miter I bought works on the new saw and I think I'll be able to use the Delta T2 second hand fence on a router table.

If you go with the refurb, look all over (especially the bottom) for any warning labels. My switch had to remain horizontal but the warning was on the bottom, thus the motor killer.

Good luck and post pics whichever way you go.

[Mike Henderson]

Get a new saw with a riving knife. You'll be safer and will probably keep it longer.

Mike

[Chip Lindley]

Rather than sink good $$$ into the Questionalble Craftsman, Look for a better saw that already has the horsepower and accurate fence you need! A serous contractor-type saw such as a Rockwell/Delta Model 10 can be had in the $300 range on CraigsList and eBay, depending on condition and upgrades.

Or, Buy Once/Cry Once, and find yourself a nice 3hp cabinet saw. Grizzly, ShopFox, and Jet are just short of a real Unisaw or PM66! Any of these will amaze you after suffering along with the deficiencies of your Sears saw.

After ditching a '70s Crapsman, refurb'ing a Rockwell Model 10 CS and enjoying it for many years, I finally snagged a gloat '98 3hp PM66! I will never look back!

[Bob Aquino]

Sears saws of that vintage are "ok" but I wouldn't waste money on it. Throwing a lot of money and or parts at it wont help it all that much. Starting with something like a Unisaw, General or PM66 gives you an industrial grade machine that will probably outlive you.

Do you need a riving knife or a sawstop? Some folks say you do, but I don't think so. If you are paranoid working around your saw, then go for it. Many folks have been working with table saws for years and still have all their digits (me included). Its a judgment call that only you can make. It will rule out most of the older North American made saws, and that is where I would concentrate my searching for a new machine. Good luck.

[Don Jarvie]

Unisaws and Walker Turners are out there and at reasonable prices. The only downside is you will have to do some work like motor bearing, clean up, etc.

If you are capable of that then go for an old one. If not look for a newer cabinet saw.

I started with a contactors saw and moved to a Walker Turner with a 3hp. The saw is heavier and can cut anything I put to it.

[Bob Cross]

Thanks for all the great advice. I think I'll look for a really good new saw and skip all the intermediary spending. Now all I have to do is narrow down all the great choices available.

Bob

[Greg Johnson]

Bob,
I had a '77 Craftsman saw that I rebuilt twice and after it broke the third time I decided to step up to a cabinet saw. I bought a Grizzly 1023SL about 5 years ago and have not missed the old Craftsman a bit. There is no comparison.

Greg

[Dwain Lambrigger]

I had a craftsman early 80's vintage. I decided not to take the recon plunge, because to quote Denny Green "IT IS WHAT YOU THOUGHT IT WAS!" You will never be totally happy with this machine. I bought a Shop Fox 3hp cab saw. It put me out $700. but everytime I start it up, I am happy with my choice. I have never regretted it for one minute of one day. Even with the PALS, new pulleys and fence, that 1HP masquerading as a 3HP will drive you nuts. Get the big saw and get an after market riving knife. You will be happy everytime you hit the green button...

[Jim Rimmer]

Don't know your budget but here is my review of the Grizzly I bought. It's 2HP 110V.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=119329

[Bob Cross]

Jim, that Grizzley looks like a good deal. I like that it has the riving knife. It's definitely on my short list.

Bob

[Karl Brogger]

I'd stick with finding a decent used saw. A 5hp, 1ph Powermatic 66 isn't as common as the 3 phase versions but they're out there, and at least around here they can be picked up for $1000~.

Before somebody says 5hp isn't needed, maybe not, but better to not know you needed it than to run out of power.